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Dan's Excursion/Beater Wagon.

Torque rods are made from DOM tube, weld bungs, heims, and high misalignment spacers all sourced from QS Components. I went with the kevlar lined chromoly heims that were a whopping $21 each. The tube sections ended up being cut at 10" to make the whole rods the same length as the stockers.

On another note, got the thing running on waste spark tonight, pics and maybe video when I get the launch control wired up and working.
 
Nope, got hit by a bunch of stuff lately, so I'm not gonna be able to make it up for the meet this year either, super bummed, but such is life. I'm going to try to make it up some time during the summer for a long weekend of hooliganism though.
 
Nothing's broken anymore, had a bit of a mishap that led ti the coilovers finally bei.g built and installed. New tires too, Cooper Discoverer ATR's. I'll try to get an update with some pics posted some time this weekend.
 
Oh please do!

Huge difference with the coilovers? And what size tire?

Edit: and what did you do that caused you to need new tires and suspension lol
 
Amazing difference with the coilovers, I actually have some droop now. Tires are the same size 235/75/15. I was blasting up my normal gravel back road on the way home, got the rear end into a ditch which pulled the left front over, up the 3 foot embankment and into a stump. One control arm, inner and outer tie rod, wheel, tire, bumper and new struts is all it took to get it back in action :-P. Going commando up front until I get a tube bumper built.

On a side note, my ignition ECU is toast due to water intrusion during the torrential downpours we had a month or so ago. Had the waste spark running tits for a couple weeks, stupid rust holes :roll:
 
Finally got out and took some pics today.

Here's a couple of the front struts before they were installed. Springs are 14" 300lb with coleman 8" sleeves and adjusters, inserts are Feal Suspension 220mm travel 40mm diameter single adjustable monotubes, the tubes have been extended 3" to achieve the desired ride height.

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What they look like in their home.

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Tire clearance.

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Ride height

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Full droop for the brotruck lulz

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Ride height

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Droop

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The original Goodyear Wrangler's that I had were hammered and they weren't the best tire in the world anyway, I got these Cooper's for a pretty good deal. I've installed them on quite a few customer's vehicles at work with good results so I figured I'd give them a shot. I like them because they're nice and square, could be a bit wider, but they don't have a 245 or 255 width tire that would fit.


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So that's how it sits as of today. I'm waiting on some metric to -an fittings in the mail so that I can install an rx7 oil cooler this coming weekend. I'm planning on switching to 12" 250 or 275 front springs on top of some Eibach progressive tender springs. The 300's are a bit stiff for my taste, but I had them already.
 
With that much ride height you could make some extra long control arms for extra suspension travel.
 
harribert said:
With that much ride height you could make some extra long control arms for extra suspension travel.
Click to expand...

I think the control arms are about as long as they can be already at 1.5" over stock. The balljoint and tie rod end articulation is maxed out at full droop. I have an idea for some tubular arms that use uniballs in place of the stock balljoints for more articulation. I'll probably go with heim joints in place of the tie rod ends.
 
Karl Buchka said:
Have you hooked up the two-step/flat shift?
Click to expand...

Yep, had it all up and running, but my ignition ECU got ruined by water intrusion. I used a ford EDIS coil with the 960 igniter that you suggested. I'm on the lookout for another chippable ecu so that I can get it all running again. The two step/flatshift/launch control seemed to work pretty well. I could build ~3psi in neutral with it set at 3500rpm. It could cut the revs a bit harder between shifts IMO, but all in all it worked like it should. I never launched the car really hard using it because my trailing arm bushings are pretty bad.
 
Cool. Fwiw, you can transplant the little board with the chippable socket to any EZK.

My board turns spark off completely. There's no way to cut harder than that. :-P
 
Karl Buchka said:
Cool. Fwiw, you can transplant the little board with the chippable socket to any EZK.

My board turns spark off completely. There's no way to cut harder than that. :-P
Click to expand...

Looks like I have some more soldering to do....

It just seemed like it took a while for the engine to wind down when the clutch switch was engaged, I had the rev limit set at 3500 and was shifting around 5500. I've never messed around with any of this stuff before so I don't really know how it's supposed to act. :-P I mainly wanted the waste spark benefits. It ran a whole lot smoother without any popping out of the tailpipe when it was running waste spark, so that made me happy.
 
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