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Globex Corp presents: 255

Duder said:
Pardon me for asking, but why did you choose to go internally wastegated on this build? The ATP manifold is going to need a block off plate (which would be a great spot for an EGT and/or backpressure probe if you were so inclined).
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I figured I'd start with this setup first. I prefer internal gates just from a simplicity perspective, plus having an external wastegate sitting on top of the exhaust manifold is a blaring red light should I get hassled by the fuzz (regardless of the car being exempt). Not to mention having to plumb it in to the DP ect.

IF I can fit it, you hit the nail on the head. I'll use the block off plate and put my EGT probe there. If I need more firewall clearance off the back of the turbo then I'll go external.

I'll know once the motor is in the car though, I'm pretty sure I can stick with internal. You're right, much better design. I had the traditional T3 housing on the T5R and even with the "ultimate internal gate" from ATP, I had 18psi from 4500 rpm on if I wanted it or not :rofl::rofl::rofl: Hoping this one flows a bit better.

Oh and it's still between a GTX3067R and GTX3071R. I keep thinking the 67 but then I wuss out and think I'll want a bit more power from the 71. The GTX3067R sure sounds good though, good power with a wider power band. Honestly, if I can do 400whp (450 on e85) with a big power band I'm a happy camper. I sure loved the GT3071R on the t5r.
 
Gotcha. Internal is definitely simpler and less attention-grabbing. I completely understand.

If you're inclined towards cool electronic science projects, maybe try a linear electric wg actuator from a new VW EA888 1.8T engine, or the 2.0T VW/Audi version. Auf Deutsch: "E-Steller." I think they might be CAN-BUS devices but if you could get your ECU to talk to it, there would be great benefits vs. a traditional pneumatic actuator w/ boost controller. It has a 12VDC motor with a 5VDC position sensor for closed-loop feedback.

The electric actuator would improve transient boost response by like 0.5 seconds vs. a traditional pneumatic actuator. No cracking open until you tell it to do so. Half a second less waiting for the turbo to respond when you get back on the throttle is significant. It would also let you command a position and you'd know it was exactly x% open, no dicking around with springs and preload. You could create any wastegate opening curve you want based on load, engine speed, boost pressure, whatever.

You'd need to fab a bracket, work out a controller, and calibrate it of course. I'm not sure if you could get just the actuator through a VW parts supplier. The turbo may not even be available yet as a service part. But something to keep in mind.

And my prior offer still stands - if you send me some details of your engine build with power goals, I'll do a quick match and let you know whether the GTX3067R or GTX3071R would be best for your application.
 
Friend recently tuned a V70 with a GTX3071R A/R .82 and found it to be to sluggish. Late spool. Hot side will be changed to A/R .63 in the near future.

Looks like a 67 will be plenty of compressor. Won't give you bragging rights though.
 
The GTX 67mm compressor is good for an honest 500 bhp on your average performance 4-cyl build. I saw dyno charts of about 480 rwhp from an SR20DET on a sponsored Formula D car running a GTX2867R. I'm proud of this little guy - he's a boss hoss in a tidy package.

Here's an illustration of the new VW 1.8T Honeywell/Garrett MGT1752S with the e-actuator for the internal wg. I found this through a google search so it's publicly available and not super secret or anything.

6a00d8341c4fbe53ef019aff126644970d-800wi
 
Duder said:
....electronic wizardry.....
And my prior offer still stands - if you send me some details of your engine build with power goals, I'll do a quick match and let you know whether the GTX3067R or GTX3071R would be best for your application.
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That's really cool but sounds more like a Buchka skill set than mine ;) I'm more big hammer and hope LOL

Sending you a PM.

Johann said:
Friend recently tuned a V70 with a GTX3071R A/R .82 and found it to be to sluggish. Late spool. Hot side will be changed to A/R .63 in the near future.

Looks like a 67 will be plenty of compressor. Won't give you bragging rights though.
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I had a 63 on the T5R and I really loved it for "daily" use but always felt like that motor was just dying over 6k. I'm sure intake, early style head (though ported) and R manifold we're all contributors. I'm hoping with the VVT head, Me7 intake and ATP manifold that should be about as uncorked as I can make it with mostly OEM parts (or at least cast). I'm 50/50 about the 82 but it should work better up to 7600 I think. At the worst, it's just a housing swap (I have to keep reminding myself that it's not a life or death decision, I've been worrying about this with every turbo ever).

BTW can't be worse than the 242 with the HY35. LOL

Pictures:

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Out with the old crappy FWD pan and pickup tube
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In with RWD pickup tube
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And RWD pan'd
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Hopefully get this guy out of the garage by the weekend
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That's Andrew's 244ti. Popped a head gasket a couple weeks ago. Ended up rebuilding and decking the head, new water pump, gaskets, injectors, fan/clutch, kickdown cable and some other stuff. We did a 15G/90+ late last year. Good little driver.
 
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Progress!!
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Adapter back from Mueller! Amazing job, can't thank him enough!
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Bolting it up!
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BOOM, In the car!
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Totally thrilled with the LMR mounts. They fit perfect. Looks like the position is as far as forward as you can get with the crossmember. Not sure how Jacob's mounts position but I'm sure it's about the same.

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The Trans is about an inch to inch and a half forward of the ideal spot but who cares, just cut the hole forward.
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YoshiFab cross member. Wanted the most amount of adjustment I could get. I might have to open one of the slots slightly but 3 out of 4 bolts are in. Hell, good enough. LOL
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View from underneath
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Going to have plenty of clearance on the exhaust side of the turbo and should be fine for the compressor housing.

So excited! OK, now to start working on the rear end, core support, intercooler and exhaust. Basically anything that'll require welding in, to, against the car.
 
Hell, you're almost there. You can have it running by the end of the month! lol

Looks like it really does fit in there nicely!

I might suggest an SN95 shift lever as it's got a nice kick-back on it to allow you room to move your hand without hitting the center stack. A little heat to straighten the bend so it clears the seat and it fits really nicely, nice and low. That with a hurst or tri-ax and you're set. Looked like the vertical height on that shifter setup is right where mine ended up on the 140 as well.
 
LOL Gary, yep running in a month! A month and two years probably lol

Karl Buchka said:
That must be a huge motivation booster to see the engine and trans in the bay. Looks good!

The shifter ended up in almost the exact same spot on my old car. Enlarging the window a bit was all it took.

You should get in on the Buchka Engineering stainless + delrin shifter train.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...1I/AAAAAAAAevs/e0gxkJ0Xww0/s800/photo%201.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...sI/AAAAAAAAezo/Fh_N75_va_o/s800/photo%203.JPG
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Yep. I'll be bugging you about that shifter. Actually I will want some height like yours,min planning on designing a console of some sort. I want real fawking cup holders!

It's a huge motivator to get the motor in the car! The nice thing is while I already have to start building and gearing up for the next round of trade shows end of the year, it won't be to insane till later this year. I'll get to enjoy a few months where I'll have some time to work on it.

volvobrage said:
Looks really good!:D

Where did you buy that exhaust manifold, does it come for 6cylinder also?
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Thanks! It's www.atpturbo.com 's 850 exhaust manifold. I wish they did a 6 cylinder version if they did I'd totally be running a t6 instead!
 
Thanks Rada!!

Johann said:
:-D

Half way. Well done! :nod:
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Probably 10% done LOL. Really, this is mostly just to do anything welding/mockup related. Once all the things I'll need to weld, drill holes for or mount is figured out then it all comes apart again to start doing the painting stages.

Plus it's a good dry run for practicing how to get the motor in with out buggering the firewall. I think when I do it post paint, I'm going to leave the cross member out so the motor can go in at a flat angle. Then bring the cross member back up to it. That big 960 pan is a tough one to position into place with out banging the firewall.
 
Hank Scorpio said:
Plus it's a good dry run for practicing how to get the motor in with out buggering the firewall.
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The engine sits very close to the firewall, maybe to close to mount the gearbox. I damaged the firewall paint already. Now using a piece of rubber mat at the back of the engine for protection.
 
Johann said:
The engine sits very close to the firewall, maybe to close to mount the gearbox. I damaged the firewall paint already. Now using a piece of rubber mat at the back of the engine for protection.
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That was exactly my thoughts. I'll either use some of the thick rubber pads I keep on my work benches (for doing guitars) or use a moving blanket.

I ended up pulling the motor mounts off the crossmember and that made all the difference. (I have one of those load levelers for the engine puller so I could balance the motor and followed by using a jack under the transmission let it go in pretty flat).
 
Looks awesome, the five cylinder is right at home there.

Bit of an odd question- do you think that the ATP manifold and your turbo would work/clear if this was a RHD car?

Not that I'm going to be doing anything like this anytime soon, but it's a (very) long term plan!
 
Dammit said:
Looks awesome, the five cylinder is right at home there.

Bit of an odd question- do you think that the ATP manifold and your turbo would work/clear if this was a RHD car?

Not that I'm going to be doing anything like this anytime soon, but it's a (very) long term plan!
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I don't know, honestly I'd put it at less than 50% odds. I think using the OEM manifold puts the turbo further rearwards which might improve steering shaft room.

There's a thread on here with a T5 in LHD and it looks like it worked well.
 
Did you have the ATP manifold in your parts bin from ages ago? I remember some issues fitting that in the FWD cars, looks like it'll do quite well on there! The WG placement is going to look pimptastic!
 
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