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Old 06-08-2017, 09:55 PM   #251
DET17
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DET/Prop -- Oct. 21 EuroFest in Greenville.....fyi. VW featured marque.
A reasonable target, to have "Cheap Thrills" ready for the Eurofest. I'll stand with the Ovlov crowd..... but will always have a soft spot for the C900.
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:56 PM   #252
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In my case, the BNE select mount moved with much less force with the spring mostly unloaded. Could it still be done loaded? Sure, anything is possible..... with enough leverage! Control the energy, and make it easy on yourself.

Regarding MORE CAMBER & CASTER being possible, I didn't find that to be true. My original modified stock mount (which I marked to the strut tower opening before removal) had MORE CAMBER than I was able to get in the set of slots with the BNE mount. Any adjustment you make is "bolt bound" at a point.... and I think I was there for the particular set of slots I chose. However while I lost a bit of camber, I gained a bit more caster. Calling it good enough until I get my FASTRAX installed to see what I got. I'll plan to document those measures with pics in this last hurrah thread for the 940.
If the spring is pushing the strut mount into the strut tower that should be true but if you have the top strut nut fastened and the wheel off the ground, there shouldn't be any difference if the spring is constrained by spring compressors or a fully extended strut.

The mount has additional offset compared to a regular strut mount with evenly spaced studs, its possible to drill it unevenly which may translate to more? You could probably also use unevenly spaced bolts in the aluminum mounts as well to get a similar result. Naturally with the adjustment method the way it is, you will trade postive caster for negative camber. That's what happens when your strut tower opening is a circle instead of a square. No matter how a strut mount is designed that will be the case unless you start cutting or settle for numbers achieved close to the center of the circle.
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:12 AM   #253
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If the spring is pushing the strut mount into the strut tower that should be true but if you have the top strut nut fastened and the wheel off the ground, there shouldn't be any difference if the spring is constrained by spring compressors or a fully extended strut.
The latter comment, not true with my B&G Progressive springs. Considerably taller than IPD sports (linear springs), even with the strut at full droop (sway bar disconnected and LCA inboard bolt "loose") the B&G is still under compression.

For typical short "drop springs" and hack job cut OEMs, I'm sure your statement is correct.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:08 AM   #254
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The latter comment, not true with my B&G Progressive springs. Considerably taller than IPD sports (linear springs), even with the strut at full droop (sway bar disconnected and LCA inboard bolt "loose") the B&G is still under compression.

For typical short "drop springs" and hack job cut OEMs, I'm sure your statement is correct.
Its correct for both, when the strut is fully extended not bolted to car with a stock spring in place, where do you think that force is going?
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Old 06-12-2017, 11:30 AM   #255
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Its correct for both, when the strut is fully extended not bolted to car with a stock spring in place, where do you think that force is going?
In the former case, the force was contained by the strut spring compressors, of course!
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:06 PM   #256
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In the former case, the force was contained by the strut spring compressors, of course!
but what about before the spring compressors are installed?
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:35 PM   #257
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My front brake upgrade has been progressing.... carved out some OVLOV time last Sunday afternoon. As I mentioned earlier, the SKANDIX mounts which adapt the later 850/C70/V70 calipers to the 7/9 strut interfered with the ABS pulse wheel. Remedied with some careful grinding & then primered:

[IMG][/IMG]

Nothing like summer sunshine to bake on the black enamel paint:

[IMG][/IMG]

The assembly of the calipers, abutment mounts, and AKEBONO ceramic pads took a bit of fiddling. Also my FCP stainless hoses had to be reclocked after I threaded them into the calipers. Thankfully Volvo did a nice job with a junction block right behind the brake assemblies so the hose and hardline can easily be disassembled & reclocked so the SS hose is not twisted in it's normal position. AKEBONO requires a moly brake lube be applied at the contact points between their pad "ears" and the SKANDIX abutment mount. I also used the Permatex purple "brake quiet" between the piston/caliper and pads. Here is the pass. side assembled:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Well the all important fit check of wheel to spindle remained. Since the 7/9s came factory with (as small as) 15" wheels, and the stock 280mm rotors, I presumed that the 302's would clear my 16" MSW wheels. The fit check confirmed they CLEAR, but not by a bunch!

[IMG][/IMG]

A little difficult to make out, but the clearance between the 850/C70/V70 caliper and the ID of the MSW wheel is around 6mm.

[IMG][/IMG]

I think the next standard disc rotor would be in the 320~325mm OD range.... definitely a NO GO for the 16 inch wheels. My 70 Chevelle Malibu is fitted with C5 brakes all around, and the fronts with 325mm rotors similarly just clear my 17" wheels on that machine.

I'm pleased with the fitment..... you really can't run a bigger rotor setup and the 16" wheels. Those who have followed this thread will note I originally ran 17" Propus wheels, but I've stepped back to the 16" setup for reasons stated earlier.

I think the Zimmermann Sport Coat Z rotors look pretty sweet against those 16" MSWs:

[IMG][/IMG]

Brake bleeding will be out in the future, but I'm wrapping up the front brake work and hopefully moving into the other areas of my reconstruction (rear axle assy/LSD/fuel pump/rear subframe reinforcements).
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:18 PM   #258
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Nice!
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:33 PM   #259
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Awesome build thread!!!!
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:33 PM   #260
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Not so cheap anymore, but pretty thrilling. Great build!

I'm looking forward to hearing how you like the big brakes.

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Old 06-20-2017, 12:36 PM   #261
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Not so cheap anymore, but pretty thrilling. Great build!
You nailed it! If only the wife knew the project name .....
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:05 PM   #262
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No good ever comes from adding up what you have in these types of projects. I can truthfully answer "I don't know."
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:30 PM   #263
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Default Mitsu. TD04 rebuild and 19t upgrade

Well as a part of this "last hurrah" effort to the DD, I decided to replace the trusty old Garrett T3 with a Mitsubishi TD04 turbo. Having heard nothing but good about the 19t, I decided to rebuild/upgrade one myself just to get familiar with the secrets of the magic snail.

Scored a 15g from a member here, then a complete Mitsu. factory overhaul kit, and finally bought the 19t upgrade package from ARD Tuning out in Oregon.

I'm on "light duty" at the moment, having had the unfortunate experience of a right shoulder separation..... so I had to find some more skill / less GRUNT work to do. Couple that with the wife heading out of town to visit family, snail serendipity. Here we go:

[IMG][/IMG]

Another benefit of the ARD deal was they have any excellent video on how to disassemble and rebuild the Mitsu. TD04 family of turbos. I simply followed along with their youtube video, and began tearing the turbo down. Most of the goodies now removed, and amazingly it matched what the video shows:

[IMG][/IMG]

The perfect time to perform automotive maintenance/upgrades on the kitchen granite counters is when the spouse is gone! Don't try this with her present, you will only regret it. You can see the Mitsu. overhaul kit parts arranged as well as the ARD conversion 19t compressor wheel (no machining to the CHRA is required, they supply a matching compressor housing).

[IMG][/IMG]

With the turbo completely disassembled and ready for cleaning of the CHRA housing, I boxed up the turbine wheel/shaft and the new ARD 19t compressor wheel, plus 2 other small thrust parts and shipped the entire works off to Midwest Turbo Service in Wisconsin for a proper balancing. ARD recommends this be done to ensure the longest life of the 19t. Parts hit the post office today, so I"ll be waiting a week plus while I figure out how to weld a 3" carbon steel V-band to my straight flange housing. Praying my machinist buddy can handle this one, or I'll be shipping that off to a welding shop.
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:59 AM   #264
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Did the rich AFR on boost issue ever get resolved? I am finding that my b230ft lh24 swap is 10 afr rich on my AEM under boost, it also has a rich idle, I'm thinking vacuum leak, but I haven't found much of a leak yet, at least not enough to cause my AFRs.
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:56 PM   #265
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There are 107 days left between now and Eurofest but it is very late today.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:15 PM   #266
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Did the rich AFR on boost issue ever get resolved? I am finding that my b230ft lh24 swap is 10 afr rich on my AEM under boost, it also has a rich idle, I'm thinking vacuum leak, but I haven't found much of a leak yet, at least not enough to cause my AFRs.
While I ran the brown tops, I still had AFRs at 10 to 10.5. Searched high and low for leaks (as detailed long ago in this thread) and with TLAO chips I never could shake it. Actually went back to stock injectors about 1.5 years ago, and with those I was 11.5~12.0 at WOT with 16 psi. Mike repeatedly told me that his chips were designed to work with the 3" AMM and a 3" TB would help as well. I'm calling his cards with this last hurrah, as I'll have both of his suggestions in place. If it's still pig rich I'll be working with TurboTankShane to get some revised chips in my 984 ECU.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:20 PM   #267
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There are 107 days left between now and Eurofest but it is very late today.
I hope to be there as an attendee, but it ain't looking good for the 940. With this shoulder keeping me in light duty mode, I've got (as Jerry Reed said) "a long way to go, and a short time to get there"......
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:31 PM   #268
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We should plan a dinner meeting Friday night for all the TurboBricks crowd.
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:46 PM   #269
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While I ran the brown tops, I still had AFRs at 10 to 10.5. Searched high and low for leaks (as detailed long ago in this thread) and with TLAO chips I never could shake it. Actually went back to stock injectors about 1.5 years ago, and with those I was 11.5~12.0 at WOT with 16 psi. Mike repeatedly told me that his chips were designed to work with the 3" AMM and a 3" TB would help as well. I'm calling his cards with this last hurrah, as I'll have both of his suggestions in place. If it's still pig rich I'll be working with TurboTankShane to get some revised chips in my 984 ECU.
Well, so be it, good luck chasing that down, I'm at my wits end with mine.
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:51 PM   #270
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While I ran the brown tops, I still had AFRs at 10 to 10.5. Searched high and low for leaks (as detailed long ago in this thread) and with TLAO chips I never could shake it. Actually went back to stock injectors about 1.5 years ago, and with those I was 11.5~12.0 at WOT with 16 psi. Mike repeatedly told me that his chips were designed to work with the 3" AMM and a 3" TB would help as well. I'm calling his cards with this last hurrah, as I'll have both of his suggestions in place. If it's still pig rich I'll be working with TurboTankShane to get some revised chips in my 984 ECU.
I found mikes to be blowing smoke up multiple peoples asses with his chips. I had 8v ships for years and couldn't get brown tops to work well with 3" amm and then I went 16vt chips from him that never ran right. After a year of having them, he told me they were never really tested. Ditch those suckers and make your own.
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:49 AM   #271
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Uh, so, I went ahead and swapped out the reman MAF with a good used Bosch unit, and wouldn't you know, AFRs are perfect.

If you have a spare MAF available, give that a lash for the richness.
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:48 PM   #272
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Default Nathan's B230 intake 960 throttle body conversion

Back about 5 years ago, our recently departed Nathaninwa produced a conversion mount for attaching the 960 throttle body to a B230 intake.

Real hotrodding sages claim that "while you CAN install too much AMM, you can never have too much throttle body". I've ready many a claim here that the stock 2.5 inch TB can become a choke point at increased power levels. When one of the original Nathan kits came up for sale, I decided to go to the larger 3 inch TB as part of the last hurrah effort.

After barely managing to get my intake off ( with 1.5 arms), I stripped it down a bit on the workbench and mounted Nathan's adapter plate:

[IMG][/IMG]

When reading the original thread for those kits, Nathan stated that you would benefit from porting the B230 inlet open a bit. This close up shows why he made that recommendation:

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm going to need to get an aluminum cutting carbide bit. I understand a 20 tooth is what you want for porting aluminum; I've also read that ATF works pretty well to keep the tool clean. I might just try the dremel with a sanding drum first to see if it will remove this ridge around the B230 inlet.

Finally, the "monstrous" appearing 960 throttle body:

[IMG][/IMG]

As a side note, saw my Ortho Doc today, and he tells me I'll be wearing this shoulder sling another 4 weeks! I guess I'll keep working on the light duty parts of this project. I wonder if I can change my motor mounts/frames with one arm? Stay tuned........
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:23 PM   #273
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I scratched out a little "project time" last night, to port match the NIW 960 TB adapter.

After simply putting a scribe line at the junction between Nathan's adapter plate and my B230 intake inlet, I pulled out my trusty Makita 30K rpm die grinder, carbide fine tooth bit, a small amount of ATF to lubricate/clean the cutting bit of aluminum, and had at it. After only about 30 minutes of work, I had it pretty close:

[IMG][/IMG]

Reassembled, it was easy to identify by eye & feel, the remaining high areas that would trip the airflow coming thru the adapter plate. Here I've marked these areas which will get a 2nd & final pass with the carbide bit followed by the dremel sandpaper drums to smooth them off:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

So far, so good. Shouldn't require that much more time to optimize the transition so the air flowing thru the 960 TB will have nice clean passage into the miniature plenum of my B230F intake.

Something else, however, continues to gnaw at my mind. I've got this old thing sitting in the pallet rack full of auto parts, my son picked up years ago from another 240 enthusiast. I couldn't resist a fit check since I had the opportunity:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Over the last week I've perused the B21F intake threads in Performance. Glowing claims going back to around 2004 and continuing up to recent times, ALL of them praising this style of redblock 8 valve intake, the "best of the best OEM". Fabulous torque down low (they all claim) and a nice flat torque curve from 3K to 6K RPM. I've had a PM chat going with Barkster1971 over in the UK, who made this conversion to his 945 and loves it! Sadly, his pictures have been swallowed whole in the PhotoBugger nightmare. I'm unable to find a nice running example of such an intake in the 7/9 series, which has retained all the creature comforts I desire (cruise control, AW71 proper kickdown function).

I know I can stay the course with the B230 NIW 960 TB conversion, but this damn B21F continues to tempt me
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Old 07-19-2017, 01:12 PM   #274
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Default Bigger brakes up front means......

that the spare tire don't fit no more! Realized this as I installed the 302mm rotors and calipers. The OEM spare is a 15 inch rim, barely cleared the stocker 280mm rotors.

The solution:

[IMG][/IMG]

Pulled one of these from a 2001 S80, never been on the road and the price is right ($12 out the door). The 17 inch rim easily clears my front brakes, and probably would clear a 325mm setup as well (I'm thinking Willwood). So long as you are running FWD rims and spacers, the ET is correct. Problem solved.

[IMG][/IMG]

Finished the port matching of my 850 NA throttle body, and installed the NIW adapter for good (anaerobic sealant used, as the paper gasket would have been so thin after the porting the B230 intake it would have been useless). I also have kluged together a hybrid throttle lever, joining a K-Jet flat lever with the original 850 lever (to retain the throttle stop) to get proper actuation. The LH2.4 TPS mount has yet to be sorted, and likely will also be a PITA.... although DEK2688 might have a solution using a B234 throttle shaft.

[IMG][/IMG]

However to quote the DUDE, "Some serious sh&* has come to light"....... there are a bundle of threads in Performance claiming the 3" TB makes streetable redblocks almost undriveable in transition from idle. Gellstr claims he had one on his 850R, and the thing became a light switch from idle to almost 2K RPM. I'm sorting thru all the facts vs. fiction.... and weighing against my understanding. The stock LH2.4 is right at 57mm ID, and the 850/960 TB measures at 65mm ID...... considering throttle area that is an increase of 30%. My Engineering spider sense is telling me that is TOO MUCH increase for a daily driver...... probably AOK for a maximum effort purpose built (high RPM) car, but not my DD. I'm going to check to see the size of the 850 Turbo TB..... definitely smaller, perhaps a 'tweener that might give benefit without burden. The investigation continues.......

Last edited by DET17; 07-19-2017 at 01:59 PM.. Reason: correction of 65mm, was 68mm
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:25 PM   #275
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Also see if there's a convenient way to increase the lever on the throttle pedal end or the throttle body attachment point. Size shouldn't be the problem per se -- if there's an issue, it's modulation. You need a way to slow down how quickly it opens especially at low engine speeds, small throttle openings. Longer cable (more travel) may also be needed to assure full opening at a slower rate.

A little experience with this when mine was 5.0L powered. Whoever hooked up the throttle linkage the first time put the throttle cable in the lower (shorter lever) hole on the throttle pedal end. This resulted in much quicker opening AND turned out the throttle was only opening about 60% of the way. I simply moved the cable to the upper (longer lever) hole on the pedal end --- modulation was MUCH better and now the throttle body was open all the way when the pedal was on the floor. FWIW - an aftermarket 65mm throttle body with (at that time/mods) similar HP/torque to what you'll likely see on your modded motor, albeit, lots of torque at very low engine speeds. Factory/OEM style drivability.
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