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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

I believe you have to find a 360 pulley to use that water pump though. I looked into that a while back. The pump is still available but the pulleys are almost impossible to find.
 
I believe you have to find a 360 pulley to use that water pump though. I looked into that a while back. The pump is still available but the pulleys are almost impossible to find.

Yup, this is what I'm realizing as I comb the internet looking for a pulley...

Ah, well; there's a trick to that.

The suitable B19 pulley for a fixed fan application in a 360 is p/n 1276144.

It's also used on the AQ131A marine engine.

And... there's one for 20 bux on eBay at the moment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-AQ131A-Pulley-and-Washer-1276144-463301-ND-1-/301898737473
 
Hold on. That's a standard B21/B23 pulley.

Edit: I think it's the wrong part number. There's another pulley for early 240's, part #463432 that's the single groove version.

GR-66031.jpg


I believe what you want is a 1346447.

http://www.volvowholesalepartsdirect.com/p/Volvo__/Pulley/42869023/1346447.html
 
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Hold on. That's a standard B21/B23 pulley.

I believe what you want is a 1346447.

http://www.volvowholesalepartsdirect.com/p/Volvo__/Pulley/42869023/1346447.html

According to the link below, 1276144 is a B19 pulley, and the one you've listed (1346447) is for the B200 with the viscous fan.

http://www.volvowholesalepartsdirec...ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

The info I got was via volvo300mania.com.

http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16322

Edit: Oh, you've just edited.
 
Yes, but 1276144 is also the part number for a B21/B23 2 groove 240 pulley. Is the shorter pulley just a myth or do you have to use a 360 viscous clutch fan, pump and pulley?

There's another pulley listed for B19 in the 340-360 catalog, bit it's also for a viscous fan WP.
 
Yes, but 1276144 is also the part number for a B21/B23 2 groove 240 pulley. Is the shorter pulley just a myth or do you have to use a 360 viscous clutch fan, pump and pulley?

There's another pulley listed for B19 in the 340-360 catalog, bit it's also for a viscous fan WP.

With the B19 360, the shorter water pump results in the same pulley sitting closer up to the engine.

So, I got thinking to myself: "Self, if the fan pulley for the 360 is the same part number as a 240 B21 fan pulley, and the crank pulley for a B19 360 is also the same part number for a B21 240 (i.e p/n 1219148-2), but the water pump is shorter, how the hell do the belts align?"

Well, pictures show you everything.

This is the 360 B19 crank layout -

picture.php


- and this is the 240 B19 layout.

picture.php


The 360 doesn't have a spacer sleeve (#14 in the 240 layout, above), which has the effect of moving the pulley further back. (On VADIS, they show the sleeveless setup as "ALT 2').

Myth busted, for the B21 family engines - maybe.
 
Interesting. My B23 has the same crank pulley/spacer layout as the 360 B19 diagram you showed. Just two thin washers on either side of the gear, then the hub that accepts the standard 3-groove pulley. (I cut it down to a single groove).

Either way, to use the shorter water pump, I need a pulley that is the same amount shorter and it looks like that might not exist?
 
The 360 doesn't have a spacer sleeve (#14 in the 240 layout, above), which has the effect of moving the pulley further back. (On VADIS, they show the sleeveless setup as "ALT 2').

Myth busted, for the B21 family engines - maybe.

Early OHC engines used the same crank as a late B20. Instead of the timing gear and a spacer that the B20 used, the OHC engines used a shorter spacer, then the timing belt pulley. Later cranks were made with the spacer as part of the crank. Without a spacer, the timing belt would hit the block.

The plot thickens.
 
I need to find out exactly how much shorter the 360 pump is. If it's 3/4" like people have said, then it *might* be an option to remove the back belt groove from the newer 2-groove pulley I have.
 
Poke... We the people want an update.

Thanks,

I've been holding off until I had some solid progress. I've been making things way more difficult than they need to be, mostly because it's an opportunity to learn something new.

To do list as of 12/18:

Finish radiator
Finish wiring
Find different intercooler to fit in front of bigger radiator
Plumb oil cooler
Make intercooler pipes (stainless, because my friend's TIG welds are beautiful)
Fuel pump/lines
Install intake manifold from Yoshifab
Turn key?


Right now I have it about 75% wired up. The LH harness is spliced into the stock 140 wiring (oil pressure light, starter solenoid trigger, coolant temp gauge, amp light/exciter) via the stock LH connector. I just need a coil and the coil power/tach plug and the firewall side of the wiring will be done. I still need to wire up the 9-plug connector in the cabin (fuel pump, etc.).

I also took a different tack with the radiator. I decided that neither the stock downflow or the later 140 crossflow radiators were going to work, so I bought a Northern Radiators 16x20" universal one. It comes as a core with end tanks, and you have to weld on mounting brackets and drill the holes for the inlet/outlet. I have a friend doing the TIG work for me. That's been fun and should be finished today.

I'll also have the first bend of my stainless 3" downpipe tacked up today, but I broke a stud off the turbo, so that'll set me back a bit. I'm going to try to fit a 3" flex pipe under the car, then temporarily step down to the stock 2" system. Once it's running and shaken down, I'll have a 2.5" exhaust made up.
 
So, here's the radiator solution I came up with. I kept with the overkill theme. I'm super happy with the way the mounting system came out. I just copied the stock set up, but had to move the whole thing forward a couple inches for fan clearance. It uses all the stock 140 bushings, so vibration shouldn't be an issue. Noah's welds are great, and it was rad to watch that happen.



This is what I ended up doing for the alternator bracket. It's bolted to an M12 stud that I tapped into the block, and the tensioner is made from a combination of B20 parts and a generic curved arm from the local parts store. It's pretty tight between the idler arm mount and the alternator, but I'll have to wait and see how much engine movement there is.



Here's the beginning of the 3" downpipe. You can also see the repair I had to do to the exhaust housing stud when it snapped off yesterday. I ended up having to drill it out completely and cut a shoulder on the backside to use a bolt. Pretty lame, but it'll work.



Pretty slow progress, but now that the radiator is mounted I can work my way forward with the intercooler and oil cooler, and things should progress pretty quickly from there.

 
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Progress is still slow, but I'm home sick today and cleaning up photos. Here's a bit of an update:

[URL=http://s304.photobucket.com/user/tylerfrasca1tfrasca1/media/ACBE617E-BB21-4F9B-8EDD-3985D7A1E819_zpsmcflojsp.jpg.html][/URL]

I found a suitable eBay intercooler. It's a 27x9x2.5" bar and plate with 2.5" outlets. It's tight, but it fits and should work for my goals.

I also got the oil cooler sorted out. It's the cooler from the 760 donor car. I cut the barbs out of the stock lines, then welded male AN fittings onto the barbs. Then I just used Parker Push Lok hose back to a 240 oil filter housing with banjos.

You can also see the radiator sticking way up above the intercooler, because it had to be moved forward and up to make room for the fan. I'll eventually figure out a more elegant cover, but for now it's just sticking through the chopped up stock cover. I also cut some pieces for a filler neck and Noah welded that up, along with turbo water line bungs:

 
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