- Joined
- Oct 21, 2004
- Location
- BFE Desert east of Cali
Erik nailed it. Use the stock wiring as the trigger. I went #10 as well, with a 20A fuse, pump is rated at 16A at full tilt. The car starts better since the relay swap as well.
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I honestly think it's a fuel pressure. Do you have another pump to try?
Ahh, that makes sense. My apologies.Yeah, LH 2.4 with chipS. Plural because there are two of them.
Could you be at the end of the scale for your stock MAF? Not too sure how those systems work, except that I don't like how utterly lax/slack/crap they are at protecting the engine from damage when the signal is dodgy.The LED thing is clever, though. I also want figure out how to get a fuel pressure reading in the car, as my Aeromotive FPR has been known to have issues. I forgot about that until just now.
I could have suggested something similar except that you seemed set on sticking with stock junk and it's already in my username Seriously, though, one of the biggest wins of a standalone is the detailed high speed logging you can get from some of them. You can get up to 2kHz out of FreeEMS if you pare down the size and jack up the frequency, but standard is about 80Hz which is enough to see individual ignition/combustion events while starting up anyway. You *probably* won't regret going to a standalone (disclaimer: depends on which one you choose, your expectation, time available, and skill/learning ability. ALL standalones require a fairly steep learning curve and then a LOT of time spent fine tuning. OEMs spend months doing this stuff in a lab, you have weekends/evenings and a street or a dyno if you're lucky/rich.) On the brighter side, these old Volvos are as simple as cars get, utterly trivial to setup a standalone on them. I went from blank slate to running car inside an hour last night once done with the custom loom/relays/junk required for a carby car EFI setup. YMMV.Really, it all makes me think I should just ditch the LH2.4 and try to learn Megasquirt.
I ran the 10awg wire with a relay, and I'm only getting .1v drop. The high RPM lean out is is still there, but not as bad. It dips toward 13-13.5 at about 5500 RPM over 10 psi.
I honestly think it's a fuel pressure. Do you have another pump to try?
Well, I hooked up my spare VDO oil pressure sender to my FPR, and ran wires into the car for the oil pressure gauge. It indicates that my pump is nowhere near keeping up. I never even saw 50 psi (10psi boost should yield about 54 psi fuel pressure). On some pulls, my fuel pressure stayed at about 40 psi all the way to redline. The Aeromotive pump is now on the top of my priority list...
Do you have a sump at all?
Any chance it's the FPR having issues? With a steady pressure, I'd be a little more concerned with the FPR initially. See what it does at idle with the mity-vac for 'boost'. Then see what happens if you pinch off the return a little. If the pressure goes up, the pump still has some capacity, FPR is having issues. Is this still the same Aeromotive FPR you had issues with previously?
You should be able to see the pressure rise at idle with the mighty vac. For the rest I?m not sure how you?d easily approach it
Could you be at the end of the scale for your stock MAF? Not too sure how those systems work, except that I don't like how utterly lax/slack/crap they are at protecting the engine from damage when the signal is dodgy.
I could have suggested something similar except that you seemed set on sticking with stock junk and it's already in my username Seriously, though, one of the biggest wins of a standalone is the detailed high speed logging you can get from some of them....
What are your power goals?