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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Erik nailed it. Use the stock wiring as the trigger. I went #10 as well, with a 20A fuse, pump is rated at 16A at full tilt. The car starts better since the relay swap as well.
 
Well, I just did a voltage drop test on my fuel pump. The ground side of the circuit was fine: around .1v.

The positive side, though, was drop 1.2v at idle. Not great! I'll try to get the relay and 10awg wiring in there soon and see how it likes that.
 
I ran the 10awg wire with a relay, and I'm only getting .1v drop. The high RPM lean out is is still there, but not as bad. It dips toward 13-13.5 at about 5500 RPM over 10 psi.
 
I honestly think it's a fuel pressure. Do you have another pump to try?

I don't right now, but I'm going to try to rig something to check pressure while driving.

And pretty much either way, I'm going to put in one of those Aeromotive in tank pumps. Between this and the fuel slosh, my setup is no good.
 
Yeah, LH 2.4 with chipS. Plural because there are two of them.
Ahh, that makes sense. My apologies.

The LED thing is clever, though. I also want figure out how to get a fuel pressure reading in the car, as my Aeromotive FPR has been known to have issues. I forgot about that until just now.
Could you be at the end of the scale for your stock MAF? Not too sure how those systems work, except that I don't like how utterly lax/slack/crap they are at protecting the engine from damage when the signal is dodgy.


Really, it all makes me think I should just ditch the LH2.4 and try to learn Megasquirt.
I could have suggested something similar except that you seemed set on sticking with stock junk and it's already in my username ;-) Seriously, though, one of the biggest wins of a standalone is the detailed high speed logging you can get from some of them. You can get up to 2kHz out of FreeEMS if you pare down the size and jack up the frequency, but standard is about 80Hz which is enough to see individual ignition/combustion events while starting up anyway. You *probably* won't regret going to a standalone (disclaimer: depends on which one you choose, your expectation, time available, and skill/learning ability. ALL standalones require a fairly steep learning curve and then a LOT of time spent fine tuning. OEMs spend months doing this stuff in a lab, you have weekends/evenings and a street or a dyno if you're lucky/rich.) On the brighter side, these old Volvos are as simple as cars get, utterly trivial to setup a standalone on them. I went from blank slate to running car inside an hour last night once done with the custom loom/relays/junk required for a carby car EFI setup. YMMV.
 
Well, I hooked up my spare VDO oil pressure sender to my FPR, and ran wires into the car for the oil pressure gauge. It indicates that my pump is nowhere near keeping up. I never even saw 50 psi (10psi boost should yield about 54 psi fuel pressure). On some pulls, my fuel pressure stayed at about 40 psi all the way to redline. The Aeromotive pump is now on the top of my priority list...
 
Well, I hooked up my spare VDO oil pressure sender to my FPR, and ran wires into the car for the oil pressure gauge. It indicates that my pump is nowhere near keeping up. I never even saw 50 psi (10psi boost should yield about 54 psi fuel pressure). On some pulls, my fuel pressure stayed at about 40 psi all the way to redline. The Aeromotive pump is now on the top of my priority list...

Do you have a sump at all?
 
Do you have a sump at all?

No, this is my tank setup. I think it's because the 240 turbo pump wants a lift pump feeding it. To do a sump on the bottom of the tank would put it too close to the ground. If I put it on the sloped part of the tank at the rear, it would be visible from behind the car and I don't want that either.

My tank post.
 
Any chance it's the FPR having issues? With a steady pressure, I'd be a little more concerned with the FPR initially. See what it does at idle with the mity-vac for 'boost'. Then see what happens if you pinch off the return a little. If the pressure goes up, the pump still has some capacity, FPR is having issues. Is this still the same Aeromotive FPR you had issues with previously?
 
Any chance it's the FPR having issues? With a steady pressure, I'd be a little more concerned with the FPR initially. See what it does at idle with the mity-vac for 'boost'. Then see what happens if you pinch off the return a little. If the pressure goes up, the pump still has some capacity, FPR is having issues. Is this still the same Aeromotive FPR you had issues with previously?

It's the same Aeromotive FPR, so I can't rule that out. But I thought I had the issues resolved with that.

For you test, wouldn't I need to pinch of the return line while high RPM/load when more fuel is required. I would think that pinching the return at idle would make the pressure shoot up, and the pump could still keep up since the required fuel volume is so low. I will pick up a a mity-vac though to test boost response.
 
You should be able to see the pressure rise at idle with the mighty vac. For the rest I?m not sure how you?d easily approach it

Well, if the mity-vac at 10 psi at idle makes the fuel pressure jump up to about 55, then I can assume the FPR is fine. Then I?d know that the pump is able to make the higher pressure, but not at the higher volume needed when actually boosting. Does that seem logical?
 
Just get a neighbor kid to ride in the engine bay, pinch it off when you spool it up. Might require removing the hood. lol

But yes, you are correct, pinching it off will only verify FPR operation, not pump capacity at higher load.
 
Could you be at the end of the scale for your stock MAF? Not too sure how those systems work, except that I don't like how utterly lax/slack/crap they are at protecting the engine from damage when the signal is dodgy.

I could have suggested something similar except that you seemed set on sticking with stock junk and it's already in my username ;-) Seriously, though, one of the biggest wins of a standalone is the detailed high speed logging you can get from some of them....

I doubt it's at the end of the MAF range. Only because there are others with very similar set ups running more boost with decent AFRs. I just cleaned the MAF a couple weeks ago, but I didn't test it, so I guess anything is possible. As soon as I get this fueling thing sorted, I'll start collecting MS parts. One of the best things about that will be getting rid of the MAF, for packaging reasons.

I wouldn't say I'm stuck on keeping the Bosch stuff, it's just that when I started the build, my goals were more modest and it seemed like other people were having decent results with LH 2.4. That's still true, but the ones who are making 300whp on LH are definitely the outliers. And the last thing I need is to handicap myself, when I already have no idea what I'm doing.
 
TLAO kills the fuel cut on his tunes, so running out of MAF shouldn't be that much of an issue given your setup. Looking at the slope on the stock AMM's, the top 20% is pretty flat as well.

I was running 15psi from a 15g, hit fuel cut before it would run out of fuel. Installed the chips, still never ran out of fuel on the stock AMM. Went with the 3" later on.
 
You basically can't get steady fuel pressure with different air pressures/vacuums even if the pump is pathetic. So it sure sounds like reg.

You can test this at idle with a syringe and the regulator hose, you can pull vacuum on it and reduce pressure and you can push boost into it and create pressure, if you don't get any change from those at idle when the engine is using NONE and you can still drive it into boost, then it's the reg for sure. Are you sure the hose isn't kinked/collapsed? hose not designed for vacuum can block itself by collapsing and be slow to reopen. On my KP60 there is a vac port that is completely blocked, no signal at all. I tried forcing it with compressed air, but it's like there's glue or a screw in the way :-D So I went back to the dizzy.
 
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