• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

16v 230 won?t start?

MadDog_945 said:
Ok? Never had this issue on mine and it sits due to this "every other **** goes before my projectcar crap" sometimes more than 3 months or so.. ok.. i have INA VW Lifters? Dont know.. also there this urban legend that firing up the 6cyl whiteblock and shutting it off after a few seconds will deprime the lifters so it wont start and flood itself.. i never had this issue also..
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about cranking and shutting off and cranking again, I'm talking about walking out, hitting the key, and getting zero compression for a little bit. the mechanic my parents (and I continue to use) used mentioned that ours was not the only 850 that would do that. Never bothered to dig too heavily into the 16v doing it, just chalked it up to older lifters or something like that, and let it ride. I've also had weak springs allow the lifters to get a little too full and drop compression briefly.
 
How do I get the video clip on here? I know it?s probably in the ?wrong ? section but Would appreciate your help guys.
 
odtPzRrLb-E
here’s a link of it running, apologies for the huge delay but been ultra busy.
 
The timing of this thread was very relevant for me too. I tried cranking up my 16v B230 last night for the first time, and had this thread in my head. I have an 8v LH2.4 distributor in the head on my Volvo 740. It has the fixed bushing in the bolt down ear so that you can't turn the distributor since it is LH2.4 and normally you don't adjust timing there.

Right away I realized my timing was way off, or the sparks were cross firing to the wrong wire. Whatever you want to call it. I got some big explosions out of the exhaust but nothing resembling normal combustion. So I stopped for now and I need to revisit the distributor clocking...

I also found this. Apparently I had the problem once before. 12 or so years ago :-) I totally forgot about that.

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=79189

To the original poster. Were you able to rotate the LH2.4 distributor to a working position and get at least one bolt back into the base?


Here is the current clocking on my distributor:
 

Attachments

  • megamess.jpg
    megamess.jpg
    168.8 KB · Views: 78
Turn the dizzy 90 deg anti clockwise so th3 plug leads point towards the wing at a 9o’ clock position as you look at the engine from the front. I’ll post a pic shortly. Got a bolt holding it fine as there’s no mechanical load for now but will be stand alone later in year if p n p set ups are still available on here?
 
YJgZHAsK4hs


Here’s a quick clip of my 8v dizzy on my 16v. I plan to go stand alone later in the year. Are the p n p set ups stil” available on here guys?
 
Last edited:
Thanks.
I went to a coil pack no distributor setup on my last car eventually. But just trying to keep this one simple for now.

Contact Linuxman51 for Megasquirt plug n play setups. He can help ya with the wiring and a starting tune.
 
If timing is 90degrees off, can't you just rotate the plug wires by one position? Setup the engine at TDC #1 both valves closed, then see which post/tower the distributor rotor points to. Wire that post to #1 plug, rotate engine slightly to make sure you know the distributor rotation, then wire remaining posts for 1-3-4-2 firing order.
 
bobxyz said:
If timing is 90degrees off, can't you just rotate the plug wires by one position? Setup the engine at TDC #1 both valves closed, then see which post/tower the distributor rotor points to. Wire that post to #1 plug, rotate engine slightly to make sure you know the distributor rotation, then wire remaining posts for 1-3-4-2 firing order.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was my thinking too. I was going to give the wire rearrangement a try. It takes some head scratching with the weird sidewinder cap. And it's a pain in the ass to remove and reinstall the caps in general because of the location and bolt access. It becomes a 30-60 minute job instead of 5 minutes. Then you have to remember the non-stock wiring when you replace wires and caps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top