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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

SquareD said:
Cliffs Notes:

Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's fast. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's faster. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's faster. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's faster. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's faster. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car's apart. Car's together. Car needs to come apart.
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JohnMc said:
*laugh*
*laugh*
*cry*

It's funny because it's true.
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that's how it's been with the gold car. Not to fuel the v8 hunger, but the 940 hasn't come apart nor really missed service since it got put together two years ago. It will come out to address a few things that've cropped up (and for a re-stall), but on the whole, I hop in it, hit the key, and go do whatever it is I want to go do.

cosbySweater said:
I would go with a 350z trans, way cheaper and doesn't feel like dog****
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this, if it must be a manual and sub 1k hp, cd009 swap.
 
Collins Adapters sells a complete solution to mount a Nissan trans to the back of an LS. $1800 for 750 lb-ft holding capacity doesn't seem like a terrible deal...
 
JohnMc said:
I guess this would tend to indicate I'm not doing something right when I install the head.

Out of habit I have been spraying them with Hylomar (I used to use copper spray).

I do the torque to a ft lb reading in 3 steps, and a final torque to angle. Using the ARP nuts on studs, clean with regular engine oil (not that ARP torque oil).

I do not retorque the headbolts after running the engine because that's such a spectacular PITA on a 16V, but maybe I should? I'll pay very close attention to the removal torque when I take the head off.

I've been gathering LS swap parts, this isn't quite enough to trigger that swap... yet.
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DOOOOOO it... My LSx swap has been so damn reliable and fun to drive. It even sounds good too
 
Harlard said:
Collins Adapters sells a complete solution to mount a Nissan trans to the back of an LS. $1800 for 750 lb-ft holding capacity doesn't seem like a terrible deal...
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Yea if you price hunt you can do it for cheaper but it's nice that the kit is there. And like I said the t56 if you buy a new one that's good it's gonna run you around 3k for a bare t56
 
I'm not sure there's much point in a CD009 on an LSX build you're actually using. First gear is 3.784 - basically only a burnout gear - and sixth gear is 0.8ish, which probably wouldn't be great for highway cruising unless you've got a ridiculously high rear (well below what I've seen in a 1031, but in the range you could swap into your 8.8). My TKO's 5th is .64, and it's really not enough overdrive for highway cruising with a 3.73 rear.

FWIW, I've got a working formula for doing a TKO, but I'd go with a Magnum if I had to do it all over again.
 
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vertigosity said:
I'm not sure there's much point in a CD009 on an LSX build you're actually using. First gear is 1:3.784 - basically only a burnout gear - and sixth gear is 0.8ish, which probably wouldn't be great for highway cruising unless you've got a ridiculously high rear (well below what I've seen in a 1031, but in the range you could swap into your 8.8). My TKO's 5th is .64, and it's really not enough overdrive for highway cruising with a 3.73:1.

FWIW, I've got a working formula for doing a TKO, but I'd go with a Magnum if I had to do it all over again.
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I was looking at this. The gearing of he 4l60e is way better. Wont be doing this swap in the future
 
vertigosity said:
I'm not sure there's much point in a CD009 on an LSX build you're actually using. First gear is 3.784 - basically only a burnout gear - and sixth gear is 0.8ish, which probably wouldn't be great for highway cruising unless you've got a ridiculously high rear (well below what I've seen in a 1031, but in the range you could swap into your 8.8). My TKO's 5th is .64, and it's really not enough overdrive for highway cruising with a 3.73 rear.

FWIW, I've got a working formula for doing a TKO, but I'd go with a Magnum if I had to do it all over again.
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A 3.31, 3.08, or 2.73 rear would work well. Close to a T56 or TKO with 3.73s with the added bonus of slower driveshaft rotational velocity.
 
you really need to retighten the headbolts ! and why do you smear grease on the gasket? is that MLS related? stuff on genuine gaskets is no good in my experience.. dont know how that works on MLS ones
 
Yeah, I'm gathering that. It really is just such a bunch of work on a 240 16V. I've taken this engine apart plenty of times for various things (cracked block, broken wrist pin, thrown rod), but I think I've only taken it apart solely for a HG once before. And at that point I switched to ARP head studs.

Maybe the motor just doesn't normally stay together long enough for the HG to fail due to my installation ineptitude? Heh.

Hylomar is, in theory, to let the head squirm around on the block as they expand and contract at different rates because aluminum and iron. Of course, Cometic says to install their gaskets dry, BUT WHAT DO THEY KNOW???

This time around, I'll check block and head for flatness again, everything spotlessly clean, and then install the Cometic bone dry, torque to spec. Put it the rest of the way together, start it, drive it around the block and get it nice and warm, and then take it half apart again and retorque to a slightly higher than stock spec.

And start looking at LS swap parts a bit harder. It's been fairly casual back burner for a while.
 
JohnMc said:
Hylomar is, in theory, to let the head squirm around on the block as they expand and contract at different rates because aluminum and iron. Of course, Cometic says to install their gaskets dry, BUT WHAT DO THEY KNOW???
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FWIW, when StealthFTI used to frequent TB, he told me when speaking directly with Cometic Engineers, they told him "That'll work" regarding his planned use of Hylomar. I've got 20K miles on my MLS gasket with Hylomar, but making half the power you probably are.
 
JohnMc said:
And start looking at LS swap parts a bit harder. It's been fairly casual back burner for a while.
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Ls donors are rather cheap in Dallas when you check around the salvage yards here. You could probably do two swaps with what you've put into your 16v by now since we've met back in 2008
 
Boots?

I figure if I pull the 16V I'll part it out.

Lots of options for relocated shifters on the CD009's, from on top, to stubby one behind the trans. I'd have to get it together and roughly in the car before I'd know which kind to get.

Yeah, time to just pull the head off and stop looking at LS swap parts.
 
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