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My first brick... 1989 240 DL Wagon

To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.
 
That is all around a sharp looking car, looks new. The bumper and trim are all in great shape. Was it a garage kept car!? Sounds like you are very level headed about your plans for it, great 245 to snatch, up, be good to it and you'll have that Gem forever. Look forward to what you do with it, seems like it can only get better with you!

It was a garage kept vehicle. The guy drove it 2-3000 miles a year. I bought it with the odometer at exactly 115,000. It has a respray on it so not original paint. And I do see rust in manageable places under the hood around bolts and edges. I have some naval jelly I will use after I get some touch up paint. I am excited to play with a new kind of vehicle.

I have been toying with the idea of using 940 hydraulic mounts and brackets, which lay longer, handle much more torque, and last longer.

Is this a bolt in change or require some fab work?

To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.

Good to know. I don't need a rocket, I would like it to stay very reliable but able to get out of its own way. I mean it's not painfully slow, it's got some torque to it.

I did go out and detail the engine bay ever so slightly. I have a bit of OCD with engine bay detailing. And I like to hide wires and hoses, so that will happen eventually too.

Here's the before-



And the after-



Wish I had a before of the hood, it was covered in grime!



And here's a video of the whine. I used the stethoscope to try and pinpoint it but I can't. Doesn't sound like the a/c compressor or p/s pump. You can here some lifter tick, but I have heard that on every 8v motor I've ever had. The sound is definitely coming from the front drivers side. Almost sounds like it's below the airborne. Any ideas?

http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/9A1A0E32-BEDA-433A-9A09-6029F8AEA508_zpsymmxr3i0.mp4.html
 
The cars I have seen with 17's look good. But I have to look into what's needed to roll the fenders and what to do with the fender liner before I make a final decision.

It's possible for sure, ultimately do whatever looks good to you.



I find it interesting the manuals are weaker than the standards... Completely opposite in VWs. Eventually the car will need a clutch and I was thinking about going +t and upgrading the clutch at the same time. What min of power can the true 5 speed take?

It's because the autos in these cars are actually Toyota automatic transmissions. It's an Aisin-Warner which came in these Volvos, as well as Toyota trucks.

As far as power levels, it'll depend. Lots of guys overfill their transmissions to help with it. Some people have had trannies take big power and others have **** out under stock levels. Just don't beat on the transmission and it'll last longer. No slamming gears, roll on to the throttle, etc. The M47 has more gears in the same sized case as the M46 so they're smaller and weaker.



It you ever have question, I have built several. Currently building a 73 that I want air on. It's getting a Subaru STI swap.

I'll have to remember that! As of right now it's still in the garage at my mom's house awaiting us getting the garage cleaned out. It's gonna be a full rebuild so I'm sure I'll have lots to learn and do.



I'm curious about making my own down pipe that tucks up tight. Looking under the car, I can see that will be a problem.

Take the downpipe off, hack out like 2" from the vertical section and re-weld it. That'll help a bunch. But I'm sure others can give you better whole-solution kinda suggestions.

As for shocks, I saw people saying to use SAAB 9-3 shocks. I was going to try and get a used set of struts, build a shorter set with ground controls. But the more I look into air ride, the more appealing it is. Still have some learning to do in regards to the panhard bar and torque bars though.

It does seem to me like there's plenty of room for air components in here but I've never seen it so I don't know.

Regarding the rear suspension:

The rear is a live-axle suspension with control arms on the bottom and torque rods on the top. The axle can pivot between these and it's designed to keep driveline angles in check. You can get adjustable torque rods which allows you to manipulate the angle of the rear axle. The panhard bar keeps the rear axle centered left-to-right and if you lower your car it's gonna push the axle to the left unless you get an adjustable panhard. iPd makes a really really nice adjustable panhard bar.




The Porsche wheels are 16x7 with a 54 offset. So I could place them anywhere I wanted with adapters.

My '87 has 15x7s at ET12. I also ran Volvo Hydra wheels which are 16x6.5(?) at ET20. The wheels on these cars are a little more sunk than a lot of stuff so a little more offset helps. Personally I would run those Porsche wheels probably at ET10 on the front and ET0 in the rear, since the rear axle is narrower than the front.



I will check the heater core and coolant levels. Windshield seal looks perfect.

Looks may be deceiving. Just saying.



What are the bronze bushings for? Replace rubber motor mounts?

Bronze shifter bushings. They replace the bushings that go around the ball on the shifter as well as the pin in the linkage. Gets rid of a lot of the slop in the shifter. Don't know how they compare to a set of fresh plastic bushings since on my car I replaced the old beat bushings with the bronze ones.


To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.

^probably a good guideline, but I would be wary of beating on it too hard.
 
@thebornotaku - Thank you for all the information!

So we found the source of the whining. It is the a/c compressor. It is a pound low, so hoping that may help the noise a bit. Is it common for them to make noise? It's an R12 system converted to an R-134A.

Trying to find some used torque and panhard bars right now to make some adjust bars.
 
@thebornotaku - Thank you for all the information!

So we found the source of the whining. It is the a/c compressor. It is a pound low, so hoping that may help the noise a bit. Is it common for them to make noise? It's an R12 system converted to an R-134A.

Trying to find some used torque and panhard bars right now to make some adjust bars.

No idea on the AC.

I like the iPd panhard because it's a thicker diameter and way beefier than stock. Plus it comes a pretty powdercoat blue. Only downside is you have to remove the bar to adjust it, which can be kind of a pain sometimes. Measure, adjust, measure again, adjust again, etc. until you get it right. And remember to support the axle while you do the work otherwise it'll be out of alignment when you drop the car back down.

Torque rods, look for 82+ since those are also thicker diameter versus the earlier ones. That I don't have any particular experience with, I think really it just helps with wheel position F-R in the fender well if you go really low but as far as I understand it, a lot of guys run without adjustable bars. Six years in my wagon and I never had 'em, though I did get a set of torque rods with polyurethane bushings.

Oh, that's another thing: Go poly. It'll squeak like hell if you don't lube them up regularly but going from blown out 1980's rubber bushings to nice modern polyurethane bushings is an insane upgrade in removing so much slop from the suspension.

Other suggestions:

1. Find a 23mm turbo car front sway bar, get the iPd turbo sway bar brackets and bushings (poly!) and run that. It'll help keep the nose a lot more flat during cornering and feel like the car actually "points" where you turn it, rather than wallowing.

2. Strut brace. Another relatively inexpensive and super helpful upgrade. You'll notice most people here are running one, that's for a damn good reason. Helps stiffen up the chassis and has a notable effect on cornering.


On my old wagon I had iPd sport springs that were cut down a little bit more, I had DeCarbon front struts and Bilstein rears, 23mm front sway, Jerd's adjustable upper strut brace, poly sway bar bushings, then in the rear I had good condition used rear trailing arm bushings, poly torque rods and panhard bar. On the iPd springs and DeCarbon/Bilstein setup the car rode pretty well on the highway and driving around, but still handled. I managed to keep up with a pack of 850Rs, S60Rs and V70Rs during a spirited drive out at the coast, mind you this was on n/a power with a ****ty automatic transmission too. :nod:
 
I was thinking it was the belt out of alignment due to a worn bushing from that sound. If the sound doesn't clear up, check to see how square your belts are to one another. Busted bushings can have a heavy pull on any accessory. Don't go with the after market teal ones, I think URO makes them. Total garbage. Yoshifab makes the best out there, but you'll pay the most for them. My A/C has a leak in it and never makes that sound, something to consider.

https://www.yoshifab.com/store/volvo-billet-aluminum-accessory-bushings.html
 
No idea on the AC.

I like the iPd panhard because it's a thicker diameter and way beefier than stock. Plus it comes a pretty powdercoat blue. Only downside is you have to remove the bar to adjust it, which can be kind of a pain sometimes. Measure, adjust, measure again, adjust again, etc. until you get it right. And remember to support the axle while you do the work otherwise it'll be out of alignment when you drop the car back down.

That's why I am going to make one. All the research I did shows that the stock bar is plenty strong even though it is not as strong as the iPd bar. I and going to make it adjustable by a center link so that the bar does not have to be removed in order to make adjustments.

Torque rods, look for 82+ since those are also thicker diameter versus the earlier ones. That I don't have any particular experience with, I think really it just helps with wheel position F-R in the fender well if you go really low but as far as I understand it, a lot of guys run without adjustable bars. Six years in my wagon and I never had 'em, though I did get a set of torque rods with polyurethane bushings.

Yeah, the reason I want to run them is just to get more adjustability out of the rear axle. I like a centered wheel in the arch. Good to know about the 82+ ones being thicker!

Oh, that's another thing: Go poly. It'll squeak like hell if you don't lube them up regularly but going from blown out 1980's rubber bushings to nice modern polyurethane bushings is an insane upgrade in removing so much slop from the suspension.

You think it is better to go poly is better than new rubbers? I have both available to me at the shop, but the cost difference between the two is substantial. Is the gain of going to a poly bushings in the wagon worth the cost difference? I don't plan on driving the car hard. I am considering getting pretty low with it though. I want to do it right and maintain the best drivability possible.

Other suggestions:

1. Find a 23mm turbo car front sway bar, get the iPd turbo sway bar brackets and bushings (poly!) and run that. It'll help keep the nose a lot more flat during cornering and feel like the car actually "points" where you turn it, rather than wallowing.

2. Strut brace. Another relatively inexpensive and super helpful upgrade. You'll notice most people here are running one, that's for a damn good reason. Helps stiffen up the chassis and has a notable effect on cornering.

Good info, the car does have quite a bit of body roll haha


On my old wagon I had iPd sport springs that were cut down a little bit more, I had DeCarbon front struts and Bilstein rears, 23mm front sway, Jerd's adjustable upper strut brace, poly sway bar bushings, then in the rear I had good condition used rear trailing arm bushings, poly torque rods and panhard bar. On the iPd springs and DeCarbon/Bilstein setup the car rode pretty well on the highway and driving around, but still handled. I managed to keep up with a pack of 850Rs, S60Rs and V70Rs during a spirited drive out at the coast, mind you this was on n/a power with a ****ty automatic transmission too. :nod:

Thanks, nice to see someone else's setup. I have been searching for a thread where people have put photos of the cars with the suspension setup. If it was a VW, I would know what suspension is capable of what. But I got nothing with the Volvo's haha

I was thinking it was the belt out of alignment due to a worn bushing from that sound. If the sound doesn't clear up, check to see how square your belts are to one another. Busted bushings can have a heavy pull on any accessory. Don't go with the after market teal ones, I think URO makes them. Total garbage. Yoshifab makes the best out there, but you'll pay the most for them. My A/C has a leak in it and never makes that sound, something to consider.

https://www.yoshifab.com/store/volvo-billet-aluminum-accessory-bushings.html

Good to know, I will check that. When I shut off the a/c, the sound goes away. (I didn't know how to turn off the a/c till yesterday :oops:)
 
As someone who has gone with poly, next time I'm building/welding my own links with OEM rubber on the chassis side and solid endlinks on the axle side.
 
I liked Poly but I also treat my drive to work like a lap on the racetrack so there's that.

If you're gonna drive like a normal person then some high quality new rubber should be fine.

As far as going low is concerned, there aren't really any bushings that I can think of that are extended at weird angles or anything when you go down so probably no worries there.

I was less focused just on getting low and more on getting a decent setup for autocross on the cheap.
 
I liked Poly but I also treat my drive to work like a lap on the racetrack so there's that.

If you're gonna drive like a normal person then some high quality new rubber should be fine.

As far as going low is concerned, there aren't really any bushings that I can think of that are extended at weird angles or anything when you go down so probably no worries there.

I was less focused just on getting low and more on getting a decent setup for autocross on the cheap.

Cool. Yeah this car is very slow. I actually drive it like a normal person which is not the norm for me. I am building other cars to be fast. Really just gonna make this one low and slow.
 
Yeah they are slow. I didn't realize just how slow until I got my Golf. I'll probably never try to take an n/a Volvo racing again. Xeroni can attest that I drive my 87 M47 car really calmly since it feels like I'm taxing it so hard to wind it out and there's no speed there at all. But when I had my wagon I was young, it was my first car so I had no idea just how slow it really was.

If it's just a cruiser and you're going air then yeah, I'd put some quality rubber in it and enjoy the ride. These cars are very nice riding stock, even if they don't handle for a damn and lean everywhere. But a few little upgrades sorts out the body lean and you have a comfortable driver.
 
I have really had fun driving this thing the last week! It really is a nice car to drive. Bu the 4x4 status is killing me :rofl:

Ordered tune up stuff today. still got to get some Penzoil Syncromesh for the trans. And thinking I need to do a valve adjustment.... they are quite noisy!



Also, what is the talk I hear about red block and white block engines. I was curious so I looked and I have a red block with a K on it. Not sure where the other identifying marks are on it.





Finally, just a shot from the other morning. Stopped by the beach on the way to work to watch the sunrise. Actually left the house early for once!

 
Redblock= 4 cyl b21, b23, b230 6cyl b30

Whiteblock= 6 cyl from 960's, 5 cyl from 850's, 4 cyl from S40's (engine codes way too difficult for me to remember them all)

The only factory RWD car with a whiteblock is the 960/S&V90
 
Redblock= 4 cyl b21, b23, b230 6cyl b30

Whiteblock= 6 cyl from 960's, 5 cyl from 850's, 4 cyl from S40's (engine codes way too difficult for me to remember them all)

The only factory RWD car with a whiteblock is the 960/S&V90

Thanks... that clears that up!!


So I did the basic tuneup today. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter. She runs nice... the misfire is gone. I did find that someone had cross threaded the second spark plug. That was fun to fix!!! :roll:

I do have a question regarding revers and first. If I am in reverse of taking off with little throttle in first, it seams like I get crazy wheel hop in the rear. Any ideas what could cause this? Worn clutch?
 
So I ordered a kit for the radio from Crutchfield with the adapter. After getting the kit open and comparing to the stock readio (which I didn't want to hack up) I noticed a few small differenced.

I tried to install the Crutchfield piece, but quickly realized it was going to require some trimming. Grabbed the closest thing handy (my tin snips) and went to cutting. just to give you an idea of the trimming that was needed-





While unhooking the stock radio, I noticed the dimmer wire coming from the left, but then there was a brown wire that drops down into the dash. Anyone know what this wire is for?





All in all, the piece looks ok. It will work for what I need it to do, and save me from having to butcher any of the stock interior pieces, especially the really clean radio.



I was also curious what people do for speakers? I noticed the only two in the whole car are two 4" front door speakers (And what looks like a spot for a 4x6 in the dash). I would really not like to put holes in the rear door cards if it can be avoided. What have other people come up with for their wagons?



I am pretty happy for now... still want to get an air setup made asap.

 
Pulled my car in the shop the yesterday to replace the rear shocks and figure out the source of the awful rattling in the rear.



After pulling the old shocks, I found out that the upper shock mount on the drivers side was not tight causing a lot of shaking and clunking in the rear. After finding a deep enough socket to tighten it, I got the new shocks installed. While I had it up, I went ahead and trimmed the bump stops in the rear 1 section.





The car really rides nice. There is very little bounciness to the ride. And it feels a lot stiffer in corners. All around I am pretty pleased with it. Not as low as I like to take cars, but I have a lot of supporting modifications to make before I take the car any lower than it is.

And for those interested, I went 2.5 coils out of the front and cut the bump stops in half. And I went 1.75 coils in the rear and trimmed a third of the rear bump stop.
 
So I have really been enjoying cruising around in this wagon. It is the perfect family car. But the lack of audio has been killing me. The original radio looks perfect, but there is something wrong internally that makes it not work.

So I spent some time this morning installing my Pioneer Deck into the car. I will tell you that the Crutchfield wiring adapter makes this job a cake walk. And there installation piece doesn't look bad either once everything is installed.







So I have been gathering audio bits to put myself a nice clear sounding system together. Here is what I have acquired so far.

-Focal Access 4" for the front doors (Have to space them due to how deep they are)
-Focal Access 6.5" for the rear doors (Have to figure out where to mount these in the door)
-Focal Polyglass 33v1 13" Sub for the trunk (will be fit on the spare well eventually)
-JL Audi XD600/1 Mono Amp



Then I gave the car a good detail and bath and found a little better idea of where the water is running down into the car.





And I found some wheels here in Florida that I snagged for $50. The center bore is wrong but the lug pattern is right. The are 15x6.5's, so I will just get some hub centric adapters made and run them till I find a 16" wheel that I like more!

 
You can get later door cards for all four doors; the later fronts accept 5.25" speakers with some work. You can easily fit 6" ones in the bottom of the back doors and in the bottom of the fronts if you remove the map pockets. There is also a bit of room behind the rear doors at shoulder level.

You could also install some forward-firing ones blended into the headliner by the hatch like newer wagons and SUVs.
 
You can get later door cards for all four doors; the later fronts accept 5.25" speakers with some work. You can easily fit 6" ones in the bottom of the back doors and in the bottom of the fronts if you remove the map pockets. There is also a bit of room behind the rear doors at shoulder level.

You could also install some forward-firing ones blended into the headliner by the hatch like newer wagons and SUVs.

I wouldn't mind finding some other door cards to cut up, only because these cards are very clean. I really don't want to cut holes in them.

And I have though about rear speakers, just really not sure where to put them.
 
Sometimes I wonder if removing all that grime will help the car rust quicker/easier!

Wet driver's floor usually means leaky windshield seal IME. Your windshield is not original to the car as it's got a later style windshield trim/seal.


Also, if you replace the windshield and don't see an improvement, check the inlet on the drivers side where the cruise control goes into the drivers side fire wall. I have found that if the rubber hose has disintegrated if will allow water in!
 
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