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Old 05-11-2017, 02:41 PM   #1
Cwazywazy
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Default New harness woes

Put in a new LH2.2 EZK conversion harness from Dave Barton and I got it running today. Just doesn't run right. Temp gauge and speedo are broken as well. Firing on all spark plugs, dunno about injectors yet but wiggling the connectors made no difference.



Smooths out at higher rpm but under ~2-3k it runs like that.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:58 PM   #2
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Check the injector connectors for any pins that didn't lock into their insulators.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:01 PM   #3
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Misfires.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:31 PM   #4
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Sometimes the connectors in the wire end of the injector connection get pushed out of the holders, peel back the rubber thing at the wire connection and take a look. You can try disconnecting injectors to isolate your problem, the one that doesn't make any difference to it running is the culprit.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Check the injector connectors for any pins that didn't lock into their insulators.
Bingo. I guess I forgot to check the injector plugs when I installed it. Runs great now. Gauges still inop, but I'll figure those out later.

Another question, the EZK has a boost switch dealie on top of it. What's it for? Safety switch in case of overboost?
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:22 PM   #6
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Been working out the kinks, AC is fixed now and it runs great. But I'm still working on fixing the tach. It's not connected at the 4 pin next to the ECU and I can't find where the red/white wire goes?
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:46 PM   #7
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Tach is fixed, now the only problem is the temp gauge. I have no idea what's wrong with it, the yellow wire has a good connection with the sender. I think I can see it moving a tiny bit when the engine gets warm.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:18 PM   #8
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Nice!
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:29 PM   #9
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Oh yeah, yesterday it developed this feature where if you turn on the AC the fuse blows and the engine dies. Really nice when it happens in an intersection.
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:40 AM   #10
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That sux. Nice effort so far. You'll get it.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:57 AM   #11
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Temp gauge started working on its own and the AC hasn't blown a fuse since I wiggled all the under dash wiring.

Of course now the new issue is low-ish boost.. (About 9-10psi max.)
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:07 AM   #12
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Nice work! Making good headway on the gremlins.
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-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW71, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:10 AM   #13
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Keep on truckin'! Your patience will win in the end. I guess when you rewire completely you have to troubleshoot a lot of places. GL!
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:15 AM   #14
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Temp gauge started working on its own and the AC hasn't blown a fuse since I wiggled all the under dash wiring.

Of course now the new issue is low-ish boost.. (About 9-10psi max.)
Doesn't sound like a problem to me.

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Old 05-18-2017, 02:36 PM   #15
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Doesn't sound like a problem to me.

Still fast, but it needs to be faster. Absolutely has to.

Efan keeps the needle dead in the middle with the AC on in ~95f, so that works well.
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Old 05-18-2017, 02:38 PM   #16
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Unhook the wastegate.
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Old 05-18-2017, 02:39 PM   #17
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Unhook the wastegate.
Will do. Last time I had this issue the WG was falling off but it passed my wiggle test yesterday.
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Old 05-18-2017, 02:40 PM   #18
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:55 PM   #19
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Problemo solved-o.



Rip in the IAC hose.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:56 PM   #20
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My temp gauge is still inop. No idea. Wire from the sender to the firewall connector has no resistance and I even replaced the sender. It worked a couple times randomly after replacing the harness and it always worked before. I even took the old bullet connector from the old harness and crimped it in place of the new one. Nothing.
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:48 PM   #21
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Just run a new wire direct from sender to the firewall plug. Use a test wire at first!
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:21 PM   #22
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Ground sender lead to verify that the gauge immediately runs to the red with key on.

If not check at firewall connector. Easy enough to replace that yellow wire if needed.

As for the fuse blowing issue that got 'resolved' by shaking wiring under the dash... I'd revisit that.
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
Ground sender lead to verify that the gauge immediately runs to the red with key on.

If not check at firewall connector. Easy enough to replace that yellow wire if needed.

As for the fuse blowing issue that got 'resolved' by shaking wiring under the dash... I'd revisit that.
Allright, I'll investigate more tomorrow. The fuse blowing thing is the AC. Jiggling the AC wire at the firewall seems to have made it gone away. I moved the coil to another fuse so if the AC blows it again the car won't die. AC itself needs some work as well, it sucks right now. Even the sloppy R134 convert I did to the other 240 blows colder.
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Old 06-09-2017, 05:36 PM   #24
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Gauge fixed. Turned out to be the connector at the firewall on the dash side.
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