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Old 01-15-2013, 12:01 PM   #126
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Man, I really have to find the time to read through this thread, looks like a great build, too bad about that 945, looks like it was the nicest condition one around before it got hit! :0
Indeed, and it gave "the full measure" as Abe Lincoln said. Only the shell of my 92 remains, as the complete drivetrain from radiator to rear axle came from that '94 Vagen.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:07 PM   #127
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Have you taken this thing to the strip yet?
No sir, not yet. Based on my butt dyno and the local proving grounds I would say she is a legit candidate for a 14sec car in the 1/4, especially when I was fooling with 16~17 PSI. I'm installing my FORGE recirc. valve right now so hopefully this spring I will be looking for a strip in my region for a baseline pass.

The current focus is making it look as "dead sexy" as a G-pa DD can be.

Next installment....fitting the Propus 17x7.5 BBS wheels and Nitto rubber.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:23 PM   #128
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No sir, not yet. Based on my butt dyno and the local proving grounds I would say she is a legit candidate for a 14sec car in the 1/4, especially when I was fooling with 16~17 PSI. I'm installing my FORGE recirc. valve right now so hopefully this spring I will be looking for a strip in my region for a baseline pass.

The current focus is making it look as "dead sexy" as a G-pa DD can be.

Next installment....fitting the Propus 17x7.5 BBS wheels and Nitto rubber.
Sweet! Hope you beat me through the 14s and get a little quicker...my beater is doing 14 seconds flat

Looking forward to more updates. My 17x9 Cobra R's are getting installed in a couple months with 235/45 Cooper rubber
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:40 AM   #129
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Default Wheels & Gil Racing Spacers......

Well at long last, time for some new shoes. I've run the mismatched Hydras with a set of RWC's chrome steel lugs to give the car a better look, but a couple of the tires were crap and the vibes were not fun on the Interstate. When I bought this shell, I had drilled the Showroom thread for 7/9's and liked the look of the BBS "Propus" wheels, which are 17x7.5....big enough to handle all the rubber I wanted for a DD.

Well a couple months of scouring fleaBay and CL, I pieced together a decent enough set:

[IMG][/IMG]

Not perfect, original with nicks and bruises, but good enough for a "20 footer" They of course had the nicks and chips from their years. I decided to do a touch-up using bottled auto parts store paint.....so I carried a rim into the local Advance Auto and eyeballed the silver paints until I found the closest thing:

[IMG][/IMG]

Got the wheels up to room temp, and after a good washing, applied the touchup paint, 2 coats, to the worst of the scrapes:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now with the scars hidden, I had the Nitto NEO-GEN rubber installed, P225/45/R17. Balanced up nicely, the worst wheel had 35gm of weight, and the best 14gm (that's pretty damn good folks).

When I bought the wheels, I knew that spacers were required. From drilling TB threads, it seemed that Gil Racing made a quality set of 25/32 mm; the wheel mounting studs are 1/2-20 TPI, like the old 2 series. I know this, because I had to return the first set of M12 Gorilla lugs and replace them with 1/2-20. Shoulda read the Gil Racing specs......

So here are the spacers as purchased from a nice Bricker up in Nova Scotia:

[IMG][/IMG]

I know that when new, the faces of the spacers are dead nuts parallel...CNC lathes will do that. However, having been run for some years in Nova Scotia, there were likely rusty wheel rotor hats which these were mounted against. The rusty steel being harder than aluminum, the mounting faces were scarred up. I know from experience (old age) that if you mount your wheel on a non perpendicular surface, you will have "wobble" and runout in the lateral axis for the tire/wheel assembly. I want the DD to roll as smooth as a baby's buttocks, so corrective measures are needed. I've always used this trick to restore metal surfaces.....a precision piece of flat steel (ground flat stock) and wet sand paper. In this case, I chose 400 grit wet-r-dry paper, as I thought that would be enough for the aluminum.

These pics show the flattening process, and corrections:

[IMG][/IMG]

It probably required 10 minutes per Gil spacer, but you can see the highspots which were created by previous rusty contact, have been sanded smooth back to the original surface from the CNC lathe.....or close enough to minimize the runout:

[IMG][/IMG]

AOK, with all the spacers restored flat again, it was time to mount the new shoes. While the rear spacers were easy to install and torque to 70 lb.ft. , the fronts were a bit more tricky. I finally begged the better half to sit in the car and "MASH on the brakes" as we say down South.....then the front spacers torqued up fine:

[IMG][/IMG]

At long last, let's get a PROPUS installed and check it out:

[IMG][/IMG]

Looking good! But wait a minute, that baby looks pretty tight to the rear fenderlip.....

[IMG][/IMG]

WHAT???? Who decided that 32mm worked "just fine" in these cars? Oh well, Gil Racing is out of biz, so I guess it is time to hammer out some fender lips. Just when you think you've finished something, another opportunity reveals itself....
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #130
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I love those wheels. Some of my favorites. Lets get
A whole car photo!
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:12 AM   #131
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I love those wheels. Some of my favorites. Lets get
A whole car photo!
+1!
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:19 AM   #132
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I'm shocked you're running Nittos.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:38 AM   #133
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I'm shocked you're running Nittos.
I was torn between them, and TOYOs....

Pics are coming....as is 17 PSI
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:57 AM   #134
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Default Meguiars SOLO rub out ....and the new shoes installed

Pardon the crappy thumb smudged prints which will have to be redone. Not much sunshine here in NW Georgia today. The general idea will be received.

Based on a friends recommendation, I use Meguiars SOLO M86 for polishing & minor cutting (depends on RPM and the pad used, wool vs. foam). My weapon of choice, the Dewalt 849 (thanks to Mike Jr. recommendation):

[IMG][/IMG]

Pardon the pics, will do over on another day with some Southern sun in the sky. Here, a couple pics of the beast sporting new shoes, rear spoiler, and both sides & trunkdeck polished out with Meguiars products:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 01-27-2013, 05:34 PM   #135
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Those wheels are ugly on your car! Send it to me!

To be honest, they're looking great! Very nice car!
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:51 PM   #136
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Nice indeed.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #137
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what a perfect DD. maybe it's the grade it's on, or how it is loaded, but it seems to be riding particularly high in the front. Your E-codes look great, and I think the front end could really benefit from the fitting of an "egg-crate" grille. Somehow on a car this clean, I feel like the chrome grille surround would be better than the gray of the eggcrate though. S90 white door handles maybe?
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:54 PM   #138
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^I agree. Car looks great as-is, but the S90 handles and an eggcrate would really set it off.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:57 AM   #139
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Thanks boys....eggcrate grille is waiting in the box (thanks JerryC in SanFran). I was holding out for my "hood replacement installment" .......you will note that I carefully avoided pics of the hood. When I found this car in 2010, it was parked 10 feet away from a basketball goal. Seller had a couple of young boys who were perfecting their layups.....and the hood is trashed as a result. If anyone comes across a clean/straight 189 paint code hood, PLEASE PM me.

I hope to find a good boneyard 960/S90 and pull the painted polar white mirrors and door handles, as you suggest. Just TOO much black on these cars from the factory. Oh yes, and pull/swap in the moonroof and smokefree headliner as well. But I've got to do a 5 speed swap in the wife's SAAB 900TC first. Last step for now is rolling those rear fender lips to avoid shredding my NITTO rubber at railroad crossings.

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Old 01-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #140
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Looks very good. Maybe some dark-ish tint to help accent the white as well?
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:21 PM   #141
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what a perfect DD. maybe it's the grade it's on, or how it is loaded, but it seems to be riding particularly high in the front.
Stock IPD sport springs....I have considered cutting a half coil up top, but going to put about 10K miles on it and then decide. I can't get my floor jack under the cross-member now without putting a factory jack behind one of the front wheels! Thanks for the kind words

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Old 02-08-2013, 01:22 PM   #142
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Default Garrett T3 upgrade with FORGE CBV

Time for the next installment. In the summer of 2012 when Cheap Thrills hit the streets, I began twisting my Hallman MBC for increased boost Well most of you know the result...addiction to boost, and the desire for MORE

Unfortunately, compressor stall happens. Here is a referenced thread with the dinky details of my introduction to this phenomenon:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=263667

I realized I had made a mistake in my turbo planning (but then I'm new at this ) ....when I upgraded to the old school Garrett T3, I had no bypass or "recirculation" valve for occasions where the throttle slams shut and 16 psi hits a brick wall. Well it was clear that corrective actions were necessary.

After consulting with the 7/9 brothers here, it appear that several had run the Garretts with either the old Pierburg valve, or had retro'd another recirc. valve. Many are available, but which one? Well FORGE had excellent feedback here and in various turbo applications, so I settled on that. Others know all too well that LH2.4 requires a CBV for optimum engine management.

A suggestion from a UK Bricker intrigued me....he fitted his 9 series with the old 740/760T Garrett hot side pipe which has the 28mm port to feed a CBV for recirculation and avoidance of the dreaded surge. Would it fit my 9 series? Based on other TBers, indeed it does. Thanks Crag!

Well FCP Groton provided the first piece, the suction inlet hose between the AMM exit and my T3 inlet. I ordered the 7 series part.....and albeit a little tight (had to stretch it a bit to the AMM exit vertically), but it fit, just like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

I was concerned about the PS belt cutting the recirc. hose, but it clears with some breathing room:

[IMG][/IMG]

In my (vast) hoarded collection of Volvo turbo parts, I'd picked up a factory FMIC and piping from a guy who tried to install on his Ford 2.3 Turbo...and gave up, selling it on CL for $25 for the whole setup. I thought wait a minute, I've got the right hot side pipe already! Cleaned her up and she fit the T3 perfectly:

[IMG][/IMG]

Well I needed the balance of the hot side pipe to the stock FMIC. So I measured out the length of the 760T pipe and cutoff one of my stock 9 series pipes to makeup the rest of the system. Took it to my buddy the machinist to see if he could weld an aluminum bead for hose clamp retention.....but we had a hell of a time getting the paint to remove (OE paint, hell for stout). I wanted to wire wheel off the paint/sandblast, but both would leave the surface improper for aluminum welding (in his opinion). I finally decided to forgo the hose clamp stop lip and just sandblast the surface for increased bite of my rubber coupling...which I had yet to source. Measuring the Volvo 760T pipe showed it was 52mm OD, and the small port for recirculation was 28mm OD. A quick Google search and I find HPS, maker of such custom couplings and hoses. They sell nice 52mm x 4 inch couplers for that very purpose (Amazon.com). I also bought a 28mm ID hose, 4 ply turbo boost duty rated, in a 12 inch length. I knew it would require cutoff (ended up shortening to 8.5 inches long) to connect the FORGE valve to the hotside boost source pipe.

All that said, here is my cutoff hot side pipe, post blasting for non-slip grip:

[IMG][/IMG]

Grabbed some nice new ABA clamps (Swedish, of course) and we've got a custom hot side pipe:

[IMG][/IMG]

I went double clamps for twice the holding power.....if my calculations are right, the joint will see around 60 lbs. force under 16 PSI with a 50mm ID section pipe (make your own calcs. & check me, please). I torqued those ABA clamps with my 1/4 drive ratchet & 7mm socket until they went "solid"....no more squirm of those 4 ply coupling & hose.

[IMG][/IMG]

FORGE has a good rep, builds a good product. I found this FMCL007P on fleaBay for $99 shipped to the door. My favorite color, black! Came fitted with the green spring, good for 5~15 PSI. Here she is installed:

[IMG][/IMG]

Well here is where it gets a bit tricky.....FORGE has 1" ports on their valves (25.4 MM), and the 760T pipe was 28mm. I decided to go with a 28mm HPS hose, and clamp her down onto the FORGE connection, as opposed to buying a 25mm HPS hose and stretching it over the 28mm connection on the hot pipe (the later might have worked, but I've hit that wall before trying to stretch a reinforced hose over bigger fittings). I put the 28mm hose into position and measured twice, then cut once to 8.5 inch OAL. I think it came out "just right".......take a look:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Last, I needed the signal line from the intake, so when vacuum is sensed the CBV is open....and conversely under boost she stays closed. This hose with reinforced braided jacket and pretty damn heavy wall, is available by the foot from FCP. I want to say it was 5/32 hose, but don't quote me. It fit perfect on the FORGE valve and also at the intake manifold hose barb; both also fitted with the mini steel spring clamps to keep that signal hose connected properly. I even recycled one of the Volvo black plastic tie straps (used on the firewall to tie up hoses/wires) to attach the signal hose, clean and functional:

[IMG][/IMG]

Installed and torqued all clamps.....let her sit overnight and run the torque once more, GOOD to GO. The only thing left to do was a "wet test" as we say in the biz.....turn the HALLMAN MBC up a turn, and load test.



16 PSI again on my boost gauge, no annoying "turkey gobble" compressor surge, and smooth power. Mission accomplished.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:25 PM   #143
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I think the only way to see if it REALLY works is to turn it up even more. Jus' sayin'.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:39 PM   #144
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I think the only way to see if it REALLY works is to turn it up even more. Jus' sayin'.
Could not run more than 12 PSI with the old setup & stall occurred. I might go 17~18 but that is the limit (self imposed) on my stock FMIC. That and I'm probably almost out of injector right now
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:46 PM   #145
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don't push it old' skool, don't let it get the best of you.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:25 PM   #146
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Could not run more than 12 PSI with the old setup & stall occurred. I might go 17~18 but that is the limit (self imposed) on my stock FMIC. That and I'm probably almost out of injector right now
A little surprised that you haven't isntalled a bigger intercooler yet. The upgrade will really surprise you.

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don't push it old' skool, don't let it get the best of you.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:49 PM   #147
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don't push it old' skool, don't let it get the best of you.
Nothing, nor anyone, gets the best of me.

Now please restate your comment in English? No comprende Senor!
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:56 PM   #148
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[QUOTE=harribert] "A little surprised that you haven't installed a bigger intercooler yet. The upgrade will really surprise you."

I bet it would. I'd love to have temp data across the FMIC, hot side inlet vs. "cooled exit" to see what Delta T the old ones get. Per Anthony Hyde, they actually do a decent job for one pass (20 seconds max I think per his tests) until you heat soak it good....then it's worthless. I needs my AC down here in the hot & humid SE states, as I'm old and wimpy and used to the luxury of the 9 series DD....heated electric seat and chillin' AC in the summer . A couple of the 7/9 threads I've inspected with upgraded FMICs have pretty well butchered the core support and tossed their AC systems (PNW guys typically, who cares about AC?). I'm not doing without, done it toooo many years. Find one that is a bolt in and doesn't require $500 worth of custom pipes, and I'll listen.

Future -Getrag 5 speed, LSD LH2.4 rear with 3.31, and "maybe" a streetable 16V engine (R&D for the future 242 build), and for sure then I'll upgrade to an NPR, etc.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #149
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I bet it would. I'd love to have temp data across the FMIC, hot side inlet vs. "cooled exit" to see what Delta T the old ones get. Per Anthony Hyde, they actually do a decent job for one pass (20 seconds max I think per his tests) until you heat soak it good....then it's worthless. I needs my AC down here in the hot & humid SE states, as I'm old and wimpy and used to the luxury of the 9 series DD....heated electric seat and chillin' AC in the summer . A couple of the 7/9 threads I've inspected with upgraded FMICs have pretty well butchered the core support and tossed their AC systems (PNW guys typically, who cares about AC?). I'm not doing without, done it toooo many years. Find one that is a bolt in and doesn't require $500 worth of custom pipes, and I'll listen.

Future -Getrag 5 speed, LSD LH2.4 rear with 3.31, and "maybe" a streetable 16V engine (R&D for the future 242 build), and for sure then I'll upgrade to an NPR, etc.
Indeed. I kept my AC when I installed my Evo 9 intercooler. Needed some massaging (read: savagely beating on the passenger side end tank) to get it to fit. Also, I needed to push the AC matrix about 1/2" forward. Wedged it against the mounting point for the diagonal top core support bracket, made a couple L-brackets out of the bottom core support, and hung the intercooler from the top of that. It's ugly, but secure and well-hidden. Your other option is to hang an intercooler way low and up front of the cooling package, with piping running through holes punched through the headlight support panels.

As for the Getrag...have you ever driven an E28? Loud transmissions with very notchy engagement. If you play your cards right you can get a hold of a nice M90 for roughly the same amount of money as the 265. Much better tranny for a daily driver in my opinion. As for LSD, the two most convenient options are a 912A588 Truetrac, or modding a G80 by adding clutch packs and removing the governor spring and pawl.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:16 PM   #150
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As for the Getrag...have you ever driven an E28? Loud transmissions with very notchy engagement. If you play your cards right you can get a hold of a nice M90 for roughly the same amount of money as the 265. Much better tranny for a daily driver in my opinion. As for LSD, the two most convenient options are a 912A588 Truetrac, or modding a G80 by adding clutch packs and removing the governor spring and pawl.
I already have both the Getrag 265 and the LSD (factory 91 7 series LH2.4). I won't know about either until installation and testing. I know fo sho the factory LSD won't take too many burnouts & shock loads. Never drove/shifted a Getrag, yet. From my trans. calculator spreadsheet, the Getrag and 3.31 final gear is almost a dead match for the T5 3.55 first gear trannys with a 3.73 final. Time will tell....... but where does one find a M90 in the states? Never offered in North America, correct?
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