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Old 02-08-2013, 04:45 PM   #151
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Nope. The trick is to get one of our European cohorts to crate one up with all the ancillaries. Last I heard, getting one shipped over runs about $1200. This is super secret, but I saw that Tasca has them listed on inventory for about $2300 shipped

As for the LSD: score!! I know that the Swedes sell upgraded cross shafts and clutches for them. Can't remember which retailer off the top of my head, sadly.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:33 AM   #152
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Nope. The trick is to get one of our European cohorts to crate one up with all the ancillaries. Last I heard, getting one shipped over runs about $1200. This is super secret, but I saw that Tasca has them listed on inventory for about $2300 shipped

As for the LSD: score!! I know that the Swedes sell upgraded cross shafts and clutches for them. Can't remember which retailer off the top of my head, sadly.
I don't see myself dropping another $2K into a trans for Cheap Thrills......I thought the M90 was basically a Getrag with some enhancements perhaps. I know Hans in Ireland has one in his 97 900 "Classic" I think it is. When he gave me the gearing ratio, it matched the 265 closely, almost dead nuts same.

Regarding the LSD cross shafts, I think Towery knows the source as he has broke some of them. When you look up the torque ratings in Anthony Hyde's Volvo world, they really aren't rated very highly for capacity. When I build the 16V "daily driver" engine, I might have to have one of the Detroit Locker TrueTrac 588 you mentioned....$500 at Summit. I'll refrain from burnouts & gear banging, and hopefully the OE LSD will survive (low miles unit).

Regarding the notchy Getrag, I've also read they are sensitive to the type of lube. Seems Cameron went thru that trouble with his old black 16V wagon, and I seem to recall a lube change (Synthetic red line ?) solved that issue.

I'm not starting the Getrag 5 speed conversion until next winter.....need a breather from the last year's efforts and now I've got a convertible SAAB 900T scattered all of the shop (wifemobile) which must have the automatic replaced with a 5 speed........
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:48 AM   #153
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FWIW - I think the front/rear ride height is perfect.

And I know this is true - "Nothing, nor anyone, gets the best of me." when things like this are going on - "I've got a convertible SAAB 900T scattered all of the shop (wifemobile) which must have the automatic replaced with a 5 speed."
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:46 PM   #154
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FWIW - I think the front/rear ride height is perfect.

And I know this is true - "Nothing, nor anyone, gets the best of me." when things like this are going on - "I've got a convertible SAAB 900T scattered all of the shop (wifemobile) which must have the automatic replaced with a 5 speed."
Thanks Michael, I think the rake is just right. I will be removing my 32mm rear wheel spacers and replacing with H&R 25's all around. I'll hold the Gils Racing setup for my 242 if I ever want to run FWD wheels on it. I hammered the pee out of those rear fender lips and they still rub on RR crossings....so I ain't fighting that battle any more Know when to hold 'em.....

That SAAB drop top is the last one I'll ever own....got 2 more jSAABs in the driveway waiting to sell. If it were not a convertible, I wouldn't bother as the 5 speed conversion is a PITA. But cruising that thing topless on the BRPW is soooooo sweet, I've just got to save it.

Remember, I officially gave up my SAAB addiction.....for this!
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:53 PM   #155
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I'm not starting the Getrag 5 speed conversion until next winter.....need a breather from the last year's efforts and now I've got a convertible SAAB 900T scattered all of the shop (wifemobile) which must have the automatic replaced with a 5 speed........
Always wanted a yellow 900 SPG convertble

Sucks about the conversion, though. If it makes you feel any better I can't get mine to drive our brand new Honda because it's got a manual trans
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:56 AM   #156
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Always wanted a yellow 900 SPG convertble
Our 900T is white....seems I have an unnatural attraction to white cars. My favorite SAAB paint is Beryl Green, but they are rare as hen's teeth. Luckily my SO learned to drive a stick, so no worries. Heck, she jumped in my son's 81 244 M46 and drove it right up my hill driveway An amazing female.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:37 AM   #157
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Regarding the notchy Getrag, I've also read they are sensitive to the type of lube. Seems Cameron went thru that trouble with his old black 16V wagon, and I seem to recall a lube change (Synthetic red line ?) solved that issue.

I'm not starting the Getrag 5 speed conversion until next winter.....need a breather from the last year's efforts.....
Welll I'm mid-stream on my SAAB 900 Convert. project...ready to join my 91 2.0L Turbo engine to the donor 5 speed. Add to that it's tax season, and I'm slugging it out with TURBOTAX PREMIER for the first time. Needless to say, nothing is happening on Cheap Thrills.

A follow-up comment on the Getrag. Chatted with Cameron, and he says the one he had in his flat black wagon was smooth as could be, no notchey shifting, no problems. He also ran one of the RSI shifter bases and said it worked perfect.

The other day I was driving home from work, got into the boost a bit and lifted.....and I heard the FORGE 007 valve recirculating. The first time I thought "what the hell is it now?"......now I just grin
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:53 AM   #158
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Oops, another couple things while I'm here:

1. My heater core continues to leak....fogging up my windows on those cold frosty morns. I've read up on that repair, and while the pro wrenches can bust it out in 3 hours, us amateurs will need more like 8~12 for the first one. Temps are rising, and JUST MAYBE I can shut it down soon enough to avoid the continual coolant losses. I've also bought one of the NAPA 4 port heater control vavles that Gsellar discovered (I will link that thread - edit future) so the HC is completely bypassed when you don't call for heat, but the rear water passage off the 8V head will always flow back to the suction side pipe & waterpump. Gary did a nice job of discovery and proof of the temp stabilization in the 8V heads with this improvement. A future segment to this thread.

2. Bought another pair of Gil Racing 25mm spacers from aplitz while he was purging his auto-X project 240 last month. Cleaned them up (chased the 1/2-20 studs and wet sanded the back side; some aluminum "bulge" was evident at the thru holes beneath the M12 studs - either overtorqued or driven like hell I guess). I've removed the original 32mm rears & then installed these 25's last weekend and I'm wet testing at my local RR crossing to see how much relief the additional 7mm is giving me. I can live with an occasional scrub but don't want to be fretting about shredding my new NITTO rubber. I really don't want to have to rent one of those fender lip benders, but I may be forced to in order to stop the scrubbing. I've already cracked the paint in the lips of the RR, but I do want this issue GONE so I can close the books on the tires/wheel upgrade to the PROPUS. My adjustable PH bar is centered within 1mm as near as I can measure, so there is nothing left to gain there.....just a bit more clearance, Clarence.

Edit - I snapped a pic of the 25mm Gils Racing spacers, comparing them to the old 32's. Here there are. Now installed, and I almost never hit a rear tire on the fender lip. All around in Cheap Thrills, I've got 43-25= 18 ET net. I sure don't recommend anything more outboard of this.....actually if I did it again, I would shop for a set of 20mm spacers all around. Here's a couple pics for the record:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by DET17; 06-25-2013 at 09:41 AM..
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #159
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Default Alternator upgrade with poly bushings - anti SQUEAL

Well it's time for a Project CHEAP THRILLS update. She's been my DD now for almost a year, and has yet to leave me walking. I only drive 15 miles daily for the work trip, so I've only put about 4K on the beast since it hit the streets in July 2012.

When I restored/modified the power plant, one item which was left "stock" was the accessory drive mounts. I just bought 7 pcs. of the FCP Groton OE "replacement" rubber mounts. I thought those would be sufficient for startup and debug. Well after about 6 months, I began to get some random "belt squeal" from under the hood....annoying to say the least. I checked for tension, and while the belts felt OK, with a pull on the ALT. V-belt I could easily move the alternator. I had salvaged some OE VOLVO belts for AC and PS, but had to use a CONTI belt for the alternator. Here is how it looks in the area of concern, as built:

[IMG][/IMG]

Early morning starts and drives out of the neighborhood were annoying to say the least, as the belts would squeal for a couple blocks......added load on the electrical system due to defrost, seat heaters, etc. etc. Something had to be done!

Well, I knew the marshmallow FCP mounts had to go to get the belt squeal resolved. I also suspected the CONTI belt wasn't helping things any. I've had really good luck with NAPA belts, second only to VOLVO belts in my experience. Finally, I stumbled onto an eBay auction for a low mile BOSCH factory reman. alternator....from the looks of it the unit could not have been a year in service. These BOSCH units sticker for $200+.....and I scored it for $50 shipped!

Here are the upgrade parts, ready to install:

[IMG][/IMG]

You can clearly see the BOSCH part# here:

[IMG][/IMG]

Well after collecting the parts, I began shopping for some POLY accessory bushings. Damn things are expensive! Then I remembered that in my vast mountain of Volvo junk...I had a 740 accessory mount with bushings installed Pulled them out, in excellent condition. Not SuperPro, but a nice quality bush just the same.....and I had 3 of them, just enough for the ALT. job.

Cleared my garage for a Saturday morning (no SAAB work, thankfully), determined to get this done. A pair of 12mm and 13mm ratchet wrenches make for quick wrenching:

[IMG][/IMG]

Once the old 130K mile ALT. is removed and unwired, I remove the old marshmallow rubber FCP bushings, and install the poly bushings:

[IMG][/IMG]

A little bit of bubble-soap (those little sink dispensers work great for this), a C-clamp and socket/washers, and they press right in. I don't recommend channel locks....you will cut the poly.

I made a lucky find while I was into this ALT. upgrade.....I had heard an occasional squeaking from the AC belt, but it was somewhat random. The AC compressor is contained with 4 of the same size bushings. While the ALT. was out, I noticed that one of the top bolts fixing the compressor was gone I torqued them when installing, but did NOT use any blue loctite. Well, while I had it opened up, both top bolts/nuts were loctited into position so that won't happen again. For the record, the AC compressor felt pretty secure in the 4 mount setup with the FCP rubber....so it stays, for now.

Here is the finished upgrade.....startup confirms I've got 14 VDC at the battery posts:

[IMG][/IMG]

Electrical connections on the back side; don't forget the plastic cover the big RED cable:

[IMG][/IMG]

Fired that mother up.....and not a squeak to be heard! I put the proper tension on my alternator belt (a long span, easy to OVER tension), and I'll try to check in a couple weeks to confirm belt tension is still proper. No power adder, nothing sexy, but reliable operation without annoying squealing belts (that wake the wifey) is a joy forever.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:16 AM   #160
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I'm sure you know this but just in case, don't forget to release the tension off of the tension rod.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:01 AM   #161
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I'm sure you know this but just in case, don't forget to release the tension off of the tension rod.
Good point! That tension bolt thread is tiny....I know the hex is 10mm so maybe 6mm thread at most. The pinch bolt will hold it once tensioned.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:33 AM   #162
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The pinch bolt will hold it once tensioned.
You got it.
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:15 PM   #163
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I'm surprised you didn't put a Toyo/Nitto belt on it.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:27 PM   #164
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I'm surprised you didn't put a Toyo/Nitto belt on it.
If we made them, you know I would
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:22 PM   #165
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Yup, I knew. You keep refining -- nice.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #166
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Nicely done as usual! And your car looks far better in the real life!
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:48 AM   #167
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Nicely done as usual! And your car looks far better in the real life!
Thanks Alex. Nice to meet a Euro Bricker in the States! I'll keep my eye on your Combi for more improvement ideas for the S90.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #168
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Hi Duane!

How much did you paid your Propus? And is it easy to find in USA?
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:31 PM   #169
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Hey Alex,

I bought 2 sets.....one full, and another one pieced together from local sales / eBay.

I think I have an average of $400 in each set, plus $50 for USA shipping. There are several sets FS on eBay right now, here is a set which is "on sale"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151086743393...84.m1438.l2649

I saw a fully restored set on eBay for $1200. I guess the BBS name brings big money. I thought you had some 18" wheels on yours?
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:15 PM   #170
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No no, I have 17" Titan on mine...for now maybe?!?

Thanks for the link, but they're not shipped to my country... And here, the price for a set of Propus is just crazy!
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:27 PM   #171
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Or I've maybe an idea : send me one of your set, please!
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:24 AM   #172
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Default Heater Core Hell.....there and back again.

Wow, it's been a long time since an update on the DD. Life, the Wife, a SAAB convertible, and building my auto hobby workshop have gotten in the way of further refinements of the 940 (now disguised as an S90).

I knew some time ago that the heater core had failed on the beast....had the dreaded white fogged windows that just wouldn't clear even on defrost, missing coolant, and that sick sweet smell. To boot, the cabin of the car always had another rather "funky smell" that I couldn't ID.....suspected it was from the PO's chain smoking wife stuck in the headliner. I made it thru the winter of 2012-13 without heat in the car, and then drove it right thru the summer & fall of 13. When winter 2013-14 arrived in Georgia, it came hard and cold...... I decided this repair could wait no longer. Once I got the first couple rooms in my basement car shop relamped and insulated, I decided it was time for the dreaded heater core replacement. I'd previously bought an all metal heater core, so that was on hand.

How bad is it? The BB experts say the 7/9 replacement puts the 2 series heater job to shame....plan on 20+ hours if it is your first one. I knew there was no avoiding this....the 9 is destined to be my DD for many many years to come, in all seasons. In we go.

FWIW, anyone who takes on this task, print the Brickboard 7/9 Maint. Pages writeup on how to R&R the heater core. Their explanation is excellent, and will guide you past the pitfalls.

I removed both seats.....for the reason of easier access to the heater, and another motive. You can do the job seats in situ, but I don't recommend it unless you like pain and contortion. You need all the room you can get. I'm not detailing the whole process, but you will get the overall scope from these pics:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Coolant leakage is evident:

[IMG][/IMG]

Getting closer to the beast:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

After many hours & pictures, we arrive at the bugger:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now the replacement heater core gets a JB weld reinforcement; OE is brazed here:

[IMG][/IMG]

Heater core cavity cleaned out with new seals to force air across the core:

[IMG][/IMG]

While in, I decided to use Gary's heater core valve upgrade, using the NAPA 4 way valve. I'll link the thread from maintenance to detail the whole deal. In short, the NAPA valve always allows head coolant to flow back to the waterpump suction pipe.....the OE valve used on the 7/9 is a 2 way, and closes under certain "cabin climate control" conditions. Here is the valve installed:

[IMG][/IMG]

Finally, the new heater core (matrix) installed and pressure tested. Unbelievably, the damn thing leaked!

[IMG][/IMG]

I've learned the hardway to TEST new parts before you button it all up. Perhaps the wrestling of the in/out pipes of the core thru the firewall caused the input side to break at the solder joint.....or it came out of the box bad. Doesn't matter, it must be fixed before I button this up! I soldered the joint to restore the seal:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

I won't bother showing the rebuild and restoration of the interior....just suffice to say I had 20+ hours in the job. Of course a repeat would go much better with the discovery now done.....but I sure hope to never have to do this task again. Heat has been restored to the beast, and the completed car smells much better inside after all the old coolant soaked pads & carpet have been removed. Much better.

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Old 03-10-2014, 10:25 PM   #173
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Question 960 Interior upgrade

I've been searching for a clean hood for my 92 for a long, long time. Many a trip to the Atlanta area Pull-a-parts, but never any hood found worth buying. For the record, looking for paint code 189-23, Polar White. Eventually I'll find one, I'm sure.

During one of these scouting trips, I was searching the local P-n-P for that mythical hood, and had decided to check 960s as well to watch for painted mirrors & moon roofs, etc. I walked up to a 92 960 Wagon, and upon looking inside my jaw dropped....a creampuff interior! I had stumbled on a car that had been on the yard only a couple days....the condition of the seats, trim, carpet just floored me. One look at the odometer told the tale....only 71K miles on a 21 year old car What I found was a 960 wagon which had been killed by what something like a tree which had fallen across the wagon roof over the rear tires. The roof was buckled so badly, I'm sure that is why they totaled the car.....but from the rear doors forward the car was almost perfect.

P-n-P karma had finally smiled on me! The front seats were the exact color of my camel leather interior, but MUCH better condition. I was also surprised to find the pass. side seat was power and fully adjustable! Well the wifey would appreciate that for sure, so I knew I would have to pull the wiring harness as well to give the shotgun seat full power.

Here is a comparison of my old seats (rear) to the 960 creampuff seats:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Score!

Also, my drivers side carpet was pretty well trashed, to be expected in a 22 year old car that had a hard life. The creampuff 960 had fabulous carpets. Here you see the 960s vs. the originals:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

We know the 960 and 940 share a lot of parts & sheet metal. The 960 carpet is plush, with extra padding & foam. it is probably a 90% drop in to a 940, but the last 10% you have to "cut and fit" yourself . In short, on either side of the center tunnel, the carpet must be trimmed to clear the 940 center tunnel side panels. Measure twice, and cut once! I used chalk to mark the trim lines:

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Last piece of 960 bling...the door pockets & carpet inserts! No point leaving it there to end up in a landfill.

[IMG][/IMG]

The pass. side power seat took some Engineering....the seat harness from the 960 would not snap into the 940 main harness. However, I took both the 940 and 960 seat harnesses apart and rebuilt with the 960 pass. side power wiring integrated. All that was need was a couple solder connections and some tiny watch maker screw drivers to take apart those factory electrical plugs.....but when the smoke cleared, the correct harness was constructed. The wifey will enjoy her heated & powered seat when she rides along. I know, I probably added 50 pounds to the car.....but this DD is a highway cruiser, not a drag car or autoXer. And all of us married guys know....when Mama ain't happy, ain't NOBODY happy!
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:30 AM   #174
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Nice find on that interior and some real effort being put into the car to get it sorted. Great job. I bet it's real nice opening your door and seeing that minty fresh interior.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:00 AM   #175
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Nice find on that interior and some real effort being put into the car to get it sorted. Great job. I bet it's real nice opening your door and seeing that minty fresh interior.
Thank you sir. It is a joy to get into your DD, have heat/cool on demand, not have that "funk of 40,000 years" stench. The drivers seat is sweet ....Gma must have been a little woman.

Sure hope I can find a hood that shines like yours in that sig. picture...
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