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Old 05-17-2017, 07:41 PM   #26
J_Jones
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Just wanted to give an update. Everything I said I was going to replace has been replaced. Lines are insulated nicely and the expansion valve was adjusted all the way in and then back out 2.5 turns. Going to take it to get charged on Friday!

After I get it working, I am going to find a way to get the 940 e-fan low setting to cut on with the a/c. The high side is already being used with a temp switch for engine cooling but I would imagine that the low setting would be comparable with the late 240 a/c pusher fans. Not sure how to do this right now however since all of the wiring diagrams I have found have power running to the switching components of the a/c. Perhaps I can hack into the a/c relay somehow?

Thanks again for all of the help, I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:51 PM   #27
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The relay gets grounded by the computer. I guess you could rig another relay that when the a.c. compressor has power it closes the circuit and grounds the fan relay. Just an idea....


Without reading back, did you do your math on how much oil to put back into the new compressor? (If installed)
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:45 PM   #28
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Hmm, that's a good idea about tapping into the wire that powers the compressor clutch. I'll look into that.

Didn't replace the compressor but for sure did lose some oil when the high side blew. I have read that the newer machines should be able to pull out the old oil when the system is evacuated and then I can get them to put in ester oil. Any truth to that?
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:45 PM   #29
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Double Post!
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:02 PM   #30
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Hmm, that's a good idea about tapping into the wire that powers the compressor clutch. I'll look into that.

Didn't replace the compressor but for sure did lose some oil when the high side blew. I have read that the newer machines should be able to pull out the old oil when the system is evacuated and then I can get them to put in ester oil. Any truth to that?
The newer machines may be able to FLUSH the system, but they won't "pull out the old oil". It's everywhere - lots of nooks/crannies where it just sits under vacuum. The system will have to be flushed with an appropriate flushing agent to get the old oil out.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:00 AM   #31
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Didn't replace the compressor but for sure did lose some oil when the high side blew. I have read that the newer machines should be able to pull out the old oil when the system is evacuated and then I can get them to put in ester oil. Any truth to that?
Oil is something which I am still refining my method. It's almost impossible to determine how much oil is left in a system, so you kinda have to guess how much to put back in. Too much and system will be inefficient. Too little and the compressor can fail. Wrong weight isn't good either. Put the wrong oil in a hybrid: electrocution hazard!

I use expensive, $5k+, A.C. machines at the shops I have worked at. I am also certified to handle refrigerant and to do A.C. repairs btw. With these machines i have been trained to put back the same amount of oil that comes out during evacuation. It gets trapped in a small reservoir on the front of the machine. Sometimes I get nothing. Sometimes over an ounce comes out. I generally squirt back at least 0.5 ounces with dye just as my personal method. Is it correct? Its worked fine so far!

Did you replace the drier? Always a good idea if it's in the budget and not too hard to get at.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:33 AM   #32
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I did replace the drier as well as the high side hose and expansion valve. When that high side hose blew, I lost a good bit of oil. It went everywhere, including leaving an oily spot on my gravel driveway that is still there a week later. Honestly, I guesstimated that I lost about 3 ounces of oil and put that much back in there just so it wouldn't get ran dry when I take it to the shop and they undoubtedly turn the a/c system on before servicing it. I am going to tell them that I have no idea how much oil is in the system and hopefully they know what to do from there.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:12 AM   #33
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Not sure how to do this right now however since all of the wiring diagrams I have found have power running to the switching components of the a/c. Perhaps I can hack into the a/c relay somehow?
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The relay gets grounded by the computer. I guess you could rig another relay that when the a.c. compressor has power it closes the circuit and grounds the fan relay. Just an idea....
Easiest thing in the world. Bosch type 30A relay:



Trigger to clutch wire, output to low speed fan input (may be yel/rd or blu/blk depending on year of donor 940)

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Old 05-18-2017, 12:50 PM   #34
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Another tip - keep drier sealed until ready to pull vacuum.
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Old 05-18-2017, 01:00 PM   #35
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Easiest thing in the world. Bosch type 30A relay:



Trigger to clutch wire, output to low speed fan input (may be yel/rd or blu/blk depending on year of donor 940)

Thanks man, that's nice and simple. I'll do it this weekend.

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Another tip - keep drier sealed until ready to pull vacuum.
Hmm, too late for that because I have already installed everything. Thanks for the tip though.
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:44 PM   #36
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There's desiccant material in the drier -- absorbs moisture. You don't want it exposed to atmosphere because there's LOTS of moisture in the air. The more moisture it pulls out of the air, the less effective it will be once the system is up and running. So, you can install the dryer - but leave the caps on until it's time to draw a vacuum to minimize the amount of time that the desiccant is exposed to anything but vacuum and freon/lubricant. Right before vacuum pull, remove caps and hook hoses up.

For others - the next time.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:58 PM   #37
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It has been dropped off at a Volvo specialty shop in Durham, Swedish Imports. I gave them the run down on everything and they know these cars well. Fingers crossed that I pick up a car with working a/c tomorrow afternoon!
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:11 AM   #38
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Snow in Denver and 3 days in the 90's w/some humi-dities here in N/C....a/c just in time.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:23 AM   #39
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How bad is re using the original drier? I did it on both cars. On the 86 I snapped a line trying to remove the old one and didn't want to risk it on the other side. On the 88 I got one side loose but I could see that turning the nut on the other side was starting to stretch the metal so I left it alone.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:32 AM   #40
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How bad is re using the original drier? I did it on both cars. On the 86 I snapped a line trying to remove the old one and didn't want to risk it on the other side. On the 88 I got one side loose but I could see that turning the nut on the other side was starting to stretch the metal so I left it alone.
I think the danger is that an old, moisture laden drier bag can deteriorate/break up and send pieces of it throughout the system. I may be wrong about that-never had it happen to me and i have reused driers before too.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:33 AM   #41
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See post above - over time desiccant won't absorb any more moisture, so it can't function as a "drier" any more. Sometimes makes a difference, sometimes not. Worst case is the system is non- funtioning with no charge and has been open to atmosphere, and things break up as mentioned above - then you really need a new one as part of fixing things. My SOP has always been - if I open the system, put a new one in. They're cheap.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:40 AM   #42
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See post above - over time desiccant won't absorb any more moisture, so it can't function as a "drier" any more. Sometimes makes a difference, sometimes not. Worst case is the system is non- funtioning with no charge and has been open to atmosphere, and things break up as mentioned above - then you really need a new one as part of fixing things. My SOP has always been - if I open the system, put a new one in. They're cheap.
I have one, I just really don't want to risk breaking another line. It works fine now so I'll just leave it alone.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:45 PM   #43
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Always do new Schrader valves and replace o rings.
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:46 PM   #44
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It works fine now so I'll just leave it alone.
If it ain't broke, don't break it. ;)
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Old 05-19-2017, 03:12 PM   #45
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If it ain't broke, don't break it. ;)
Yeah, heh, all I did was ziptie the condenser back on, replace the thermostat, and fill 'er up. The slow 240 took a bit more work.
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:15 PM   #46
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I went with an aftermarket system when I did the engine swap. I don't know how to act with functioning a/c that will drive you out of the car on the low setting!
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:59 PM   #47
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Just got it back and all of that work was worth it. Moving I can hit about 52deg on an 87deg day. Stopped or slow moving however is about useless, going to have to get a pusher fan on there ASAP. Problem that I'm seeing is that the 940 e-fan probably isn't going to pull much air thru the condenser with the space between it and the radiator. Going to be putting a pusher in front of the condenser that comes on with the compressor but will be able to wire it the same as above so no worries. Now I wish I hadn't thrown all of those pusher setups up in the past...

Thanks for all of the help on this, it really is great to have my first 240 with working a/c.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:20 PM   #48
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It's nice having a classic car with A/C...in the process of reviving my Wife's 244's A/C...compressor kicks on when jumped and sounds really good for not having been kicked on in 10+ years. Now for the expansion valve, receiver/drier and a pusher fan.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:34 PM   #49
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Hell, just looked at it again and it's worth trying the low-speed of the 940 e-fan that is already on there to come on with the a/c and see if it has a positive effect. I can wire that up in a few minutes and it's already in place..
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:36 PM   #50
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Hell, just looked at it again and it's worth trying the low-speed of the 940 e-fan that is already on there to come on with the a/c and see if it has a positive effect. I can wire that up in a few minutes and it's already in place..
Never hurts to try.
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