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Old 05-11-2017, 06:34 PM   #1
'98t5m
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Default sloppy m46

Hey guys, a while back I lost 1st and 2nd gear, and found the plastic bushings at the bottom of the shifter rod were toasted. I replaced them with some homemade solid bushings which fixed the problem, but I still have trouble getting into gear sometimes, it feels like something is binding, especially into 1st and 2nd. Sometimes I have to row back and forth a few times to get it to engage, annoying in hilly stop and go traffic. I found a solid bushing kit that looks like a nice upgrade, but it only contains the bushings on/around the shifter. What I would like to know, and can't tell from diagrams/searching is if there are other bushings at the end of the shifter assembly (ie where it meets the transmission) that I should consider replacing as well. Having never seen an m46 out of the car, I'm not sure. Any help appreciated.

The shifter has slop when it's in gear as well. If i'm in gear, I can still move the shifter from side to side an inch or so. I know the m46s have a reputation for sloppiness, I'd just like to get it as crisp as I can. Thanks.

Link to brass bushings: https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-240-740-volvo
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:01 PM   #2
dl242gt
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There is a coupler in the shifter linkage. The pins and oring in the coupler can wear out. If you don't have the reverse lockout bracket properly adjusted it will make it hard to get into first as well.

If the pilot bearing is worn that will also make it hard to get into first and reverse. Check out the diagrams in the catalog at genuine classic parts.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:16 PM   #3
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There are rubber bushings above and below the ball socket bushings (#20 & #43) as well as the above mentioned pins (#9) that can cause sloppiness in the shifter.



There are also 4 bushings on the shifter cage (#2) that can allow the whole assembly to wiggle. There are 3 different part numbers for those bushings, 1232377 (grey), 1232165 (light grey) and 1232158 (black). The grey bushings are softer than the black ones.




Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
There is a coupler in the shifter linkage. The pins and oring in the coupler can wear out. If you don't have the reverse lockout bracket properly adjusted it will make it hard to get into first and second as well.
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:50 PM   #4
'98t5m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
There is a coupler in the shifter linkage. The pins and oring in the coupler can wear out. If you don't have the reverse lockout bracket properly adjusted it will make it hard to get into first as well.

If the pilot bearing is worn that will also make it hard to get into first and reverse. Check out the diagrams in the catalog at genuine classic parts.
Thanks for the reply. I found the correct diagram in my book. I think the pilot bearing may be fubarred because I do hear what sounds like a bearing whining from the transmission at times. Some days it's there, some days it's quiet. As far as the lockout gate, I have removed it and put it back in once, but would that cause an intermittent issue? I'll start with the bushings and see how it goes.

Is the o-ring a standard round wall type? I have a pretty decent selection of sizes to choose from. Is there anything special about the pin? I appreciate the detailed response.

Last edited by '98t5m; 05-11-2017 at 10:03 PM..
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
There are rubber bushings above and below the ball socket bushings (#20 & #43) as well as the above mentioned pins (#9) that can cause sloppiness in the shifter.

There are also 4 bushings on the shifter cage (#2) that can allow the whole assembly to wiggle. There are 3 different part numbers for those bushings, 1232377 (grey), 1232165 (light grey) and 1232158 (black). The grey bushings are softer than the black ones.
Thanks you for the response. I'll have to look at #9. I have an assortment of cotter pins and the like. Will also check out #2. Looks like Tasca has it, would prefer not to have to go through the dealership but oh well. can't find an aftermarket on the black.

20 and 43 are in the kit I found, so that should be easy enough to take care of.

Last edited by '98t5m; 05-11-2017 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:10 PM   #6
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Wasn't somebody making the shift selector cage bushing out of delrin or other HD material? Seem to remember seeing that but google isn't bring up anything.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:11 PM   #7
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#9 is a hardened solid steel pin. I don't recommend using just any old pin.



#7 is the coupler between the transmission and shift rod. The pins go into this piece at 90° angles to each other. #8 is a spring metal sleeve that retains the pins. #10 is an o-ring that should probably be changed while you're in there.

#20 & #43 are rubber bushings. The kit you linked to replaces the plastic ball shell bushings (#19 & #42) as well as the lower link rod bushings (#4) with brass pieces. There are different rubber bushings depending on the year of production.



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Old 05-11-2017, 10:19 PM   #8
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Okay, thanks for clarifying that. I am curious what goes wrong with the pin. Do you think it would be worthwhile to order one (or two?) pre-emptively? I see one in the diagram but you mentioned pins earlier.

Last edited by '98t5m; 05-11-2017 at 10:27 PM..
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:30 PM   #9
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I appreciate the responses. Good to learn more about these cars. Will check back in tomorrow. Looks like Tasca has everything I need, more than I wanted to spend but isn't that always how it goes.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:41 PM   #10
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I was having the same issue with my m46. I went with the bronze bushings that can be ordered here: https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-240-740-volvo

I found the upper(larger) bushings made the biggest difference shifting into first and then into second.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '98t5m View Post
Okay, thanks for clarifying that. I am curious what goes wrong with the pin. Do you think it would be worthwhile to order one (or two?) pre-emptively? I see one in the diagram but you mentioned pins earlier.
The pins eventually wear down. Although the diagram only shows one pin, two are required.

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Old 05-12-2017, 06:29 AM   #12
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i seem to remember that the adjustment of bracket #44 (see pic posted by hiperfauto) is important to 1ste and 2nd gear engagement.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:46 AM   #13
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i seem to remember that the adjustment of bracket #44 (see pic posted by hiperfauto) is important to 1ste and 2nd gear engagement.
It is, yeah. IIRC, the Bentley manual says that while 1st is engaged, you should be able to move the shifter 1-2 inches to the left. If you can't, then it's resting right up on that detent plate and you're just barely squeezing into 1st and second gear.
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:44 AM   #14
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Great, info guys, thanks. Ordering new pins and bushings from tasca.

Volvo wants $7 for the two o-rings #5 and #10, think I can get away using generic o-rings?
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetliight View Post
It is, yeah. IIRC, the Bentley manual says that while 1st is engaged, you should be able to move the shifter 1-2 inches to the left. If you can't, then it's resting right up on that detent plate and you're just barely squeezing into 1st and second gear.
Awesome, I will test that out.
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:11 AM   #16
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Well, the issue must be internal (synchros?). Went to show dad the difficulty getting into gear and there wasn't any. When the car isn't running, there's no issue. This car has almost 300k so it's not a huge surprise.
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