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780 Bertone turbo+ in my $200 240

Wren said:
oil lines for the turbo
Again, these are useless for you. Don't buy them.
Click to expand...

It is possible to weld or braze a threaded fitting to the feed line to save the expense of a fitting compatible with the turbo end.

oil-feed-banjo_small.jpg


So, not entirely useless, but it won't just bolt on either.
 
sim said:
It is possible to weld or braze a threaded fitting to the feed line to save the expense of a fitting compatible with the turbo end.
Click to expand...

The problem lies at the block end of the line and not the turbo end.
Just buy the proper fittings and run them.

.
 
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The turbo flame trap is slightly different than the non-turbo one. It doesn't use a screen in it but it retains the 3mm vacuum line.
 
Wren said:
The problem lies at the block end of the line and not the turbo end.
Just buy the proper fittings and run them.

.
Click to expand...

This problem?
Oil-Feed-Plug.jpg


1/4" NPT fittings are on the shelf all day long at any number of local places.

The plug Volvo put there can be a bit hard to remove, but it will come out.

To run "proper" lines on a plus-T involves drilling and tapping the block.
 
The stock turbo oil feed line on a B230FT attaches to the block on the side under the exhaust manifold. A non-turbo block isn't drilled/tapped to use the B230FT oil feed, so the stock oil feed will not be of any use unless the boss on the block is faced off and then drilled tapped to accept the stock banjo bolt.
 
Yup, I told him to cut the lines if it means getting the turbo off faster because apparently they were stuck or hard to get to?
 
Wren said:
The stock turbo oil feed line on a B230FT attaches to the block on the side under the exhaust manifold. A non-turbo block isn't drilled/tapped to use the B230FT oil feed, so the stock oil feed will not be of any use unless the boss on the block is faced off and then drilled tapped to accept the stock banjo bolt.
Click to expand...

You misunderstand me.

My point was that the banjo on the turbo end can be used for custom lines with a little brazing or welding.

Every other fitting needed can be bought off the shelf any number of places. The connection to the turbo probably needs to be ordered online.

Should the OP have access to a torch set, he could save ~$25 and some waiting for shipping on the fitting. It's worth it if he has the tools, and can get the line, or at least the one end of it, at no extra cost.
 
Cwazywazy said:
I actually have no idea for sure, I just found it lying on the top of a 960 engine in a junkyard (That time I went there was literally one redblock car and the MAF was already gone.) and it looked close enough. Diameter is slightly bigger but the connector is the same. Located in CT, 06035.

http://i.imgur.com/DhyYWy6.jpg
Click to expand...

Close enough doesn't count when it comes to air mass meters. 002, ,006, 007, O12, 016 and 025 AMMs all have the same connector and they are not all interchangeable.
 
2manyturbos said:
Close enough doesn't count when it comes to air mass meters. 002, ,006, 007, O12, 016 and 025 AMMs all have the same connector and they are not all interchangeable.
Click to expand...

Totally understood, but it works well enough and should last until I get the new MAF with all the turbo bits. The old MAF made it run like crap when cold and even warmed up it wasn't great. The only issue I've noticed with the new one is a slightly high idle.
 
Hi Everyone,

I'm the Bertone guy in Clearwater, FL. My name's Eric. As alot of ground has already been covered I'll sum up where I'm at with it.

Exhaust Manifold/Turbo/Attached Components are off. 2 of the 3 oil lines are intact, though looks like they're next to useless except for the connectors which can be braised to braided line. The 3rd isn't pinched but I bent it to remove the manifold. B+ Shape still. Impeller spins freely with no axis movement other than spinning clean and smooth. Previous owner said boost was strong.

Have not cut a single wire. Everything has been disconnected and pulled through to a central clump in the engine bay with care. All of this is free and flows into the firewall through 2 rubber ports. A couple of plastic end connectors were brittle and cracked during removal (connections at the horns :grrr: ) but ALL the wiring and actual contacts/connectors are in great shape. Removing ALL of the harness from here back into the passenger compartment will be tedious. Still looking to get a clear picture of what the EZK Harness exactly consists of on my end for pulling. I did see the EZK conversion kit for sale on that thread. Not certain yet of which wires, in the context of th entire harness, it consisted of.

Skill level is fairly novice on my end. Had (2) 245s (1) '86 745 Turbo Brick with terrible wiring rot and my current DD '96 850 Base Sedan. This 780 is the first time that I've really torn into a B230. Using mostly harbor freight specials to pull parts and have cracked 2 sockets. The head bolts WILL NOT BUDGE. Going to need an impact I think.

Is the cam useless for CWAZYWAZY? Looks like reshimming is involved unless he cops an IPD cam. From what I've gathered, he's looking at a $200 245 with 5-speed that's his first car, but that has the crap eco-jacket harness and some stage 0 needs; but he he wants to light up the school parking lot and have the dirtiest Volvo in town. I remember being 17 myself almost a decade ago. The M Trans itself makes this car an ideal restoration project or luggage for the tranny and turbo components until he scoops a newer 245 and swaps everything over.

Based on his list, assuming that he grabs high imp. injectors so as not to need the whole harness for the ballast resistor, anyone have a plan that makes this easy for him to bolt on and boost? Got the downpipe that he'll need to bend to fit off also. Everything on his list except for the Harness/ECU/ICM is out of the car and ready to ship.

Any questions or advice from you guys please feel free to shout it out. Here's where I'm at today: :)

13608d1473034546-1989-780-bertone-turbo-parting-out-0904161907.jpg
 
Hi guys,

Shipped everything to CWAZYWAZY, on it's way. Looking for input on the engine harness that I've sent him.

I CAREFULLY pulled ALL of the harness in the engine bay that disconnects from the harness feeding out of the 2 rubber ports in the firewall from the passenger compartment. Didn't cut anything, only disconnected. This comprised the bulk of the harness that was in the engine bay. Sent the ECU / Ignition Module also; along with powerstage, ballast resistor, etc.

Looking at Dave Barton's LH2.2 EZK 117 +T Harness for his car, it looks like ONLY engine bay harness. http://www.davebarton.com/3515364-EZK-bos3med.jpg

Will he be able to swap what I've sent him for the engine bay harness and plug the ECU/ICM into his existing passenger compartment harness? Not sure if he'll need any of what's left in my car. Thank you for any input.

P.S. - Sent him the ignition coil also. Any improvement over his current coil? Thanks.
 
Ah shoot,

Rather than edit my last post to not look like a doofus, I'll stand by. Obviously the ECU and ICU Plugs are in the picture. So.... He going to need all of the wiring from the ECU and ICU back to what I've given him. To be clear, this is the harness bundle(s) that pass through the firewall.
 
Got 2/3 boxes today. It was like Christmas.

I'll throw the MAF on tomorrow so hopefully it'll run good while the engine is still warming up. I have a few questions for you smart guys:

Do I have to move the AC drier? I refuse to give up my AC. Too nice.
Can I use a ricer "cold" air intake instead of having to move the washer and get a turbo coolant tank to use the stock airbox?
 
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