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Old 11-04-2018, 07:38 PM   #626
M.H. Yount
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As usual, really nice work -- spend a little time up front to have it all bolt together with little drama later. If the Bimmer block is cast iron, that'll give you a bit of relief for the weight of your turbo plumbing -- likely still be a net reduction I think.
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:01 PM   #627
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My goal is to do literally EVERYTHING possible in the mock-up front clip. Hopefully including starting it. That way the swap into the Amazon can be as seamless as possible.
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:27 PM   #628
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Any idea what would happen if you pair a sprung center clutch disk with a dual mass flywheel?
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:43 PM   #629
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On one hand, I'm thinking smooth engagement. Wondering, though, what might happen if some sort of weird resonance happened during engagement....
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:57 PM   #630
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On one hand, I'm thinking smooth engagement. Wondering, though, what might happen if some sort of weird resonance happened during engagement....
Yeah, I was thinking either super smooth engagement or chatter. Also thinking about engine braking.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:22 PM   #631
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Yeah, I was thinking either super smooth engagement or chatter. Also thinking about engine braking.
Most VW guys (including myself) run sprung clutch disks and single mass flywheels. Engine braking (extremely important on stock drum brakes) is good, and there is no noticeable chatter.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:52 PM   #632
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Well, I’ve got a 215mm recess in the Volvo dual mass flywheel. I have three options, A) buy a larger E30 disk made for dual mass and have it trimmed (losing some friction material $120), B) buy an E21 sprung center 215mm disk and drop it in (sub $100) or C) pay to have an unsprung BMW center put in a Volvo disk by one of the various performance clutch places (+/- $200 for stock sized organic friction disk). I know $80-$100 doesn’t seem like a ton, but I’m on an uber tight budget. I do pretty much everything out of scraps or used parts.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:09 PM   #633
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Any reason you can't run the single mass flywheel from an 850? I don't really know that gen whiteblock well enough to know if they are different substaintly.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:22 PM   #634
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Any reason you can't run the single mass flywheel from an 850? I don't really know that gen whiteblock well enough to know if they are different substaintly.
Couple things, A) even more additional cost. I already have the dual mass and B) when I did the CAD for where to cut/weld the bellhousing and trans I used the OE dual mass for all my measurements. I have no idea if the “stack up” would be different dimensionally.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:16 PM   #635
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So, used our shipping pallet jack/scale to weigh the empty engine/trans combo. I’m going to re-weigh them tomorrow on a more accurate scale (even though the shipping/receiving guys swear the scale on the pallet jack is accurate)



Got some new stickers today for both my cars (the Amazon will have to wait for his)

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Old 11-05-2018, 10:22 PM   #636
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If the pallet scale will allow --- and the engine/tranny combo is still there --- try a version where you stand on the scale with the engine and get a weight; and then weigh just yourself. Do the math and see if the 370 still holds up. In my experience, often the scales are more accurate with 'deltas' than they are with absolute weights. Plus, it will allow you to compare your weight on the pallet scale to your weight on some other scale to see if that's enlightening. Seems about right to me I reckon. My LS3 absent accessories weighed 393. Add in bell, flywheel/clutch accoutrements, and tranny - probably around 500-520.
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Old 11-10-2018, 11:57 PM   #637
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Boring Saturday night. UFC on the tv and a stack of compressor maps.

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Old 11-11-2018, 02:24 AM   #638
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One guy in Finland tig welded a whiteblock dualmass flywheel to make it be single version. Don't remember if it was with m90 or other rwd gearbox
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:56 PM   #639
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Been doing lame work. Not exciting stuff. Changing coolant lines from FWD configuration and making motor mounts. I want the (potential) option to shift the whole assembly forward a bit since the firewall clearance is tight.

FWD coolant lines:


Green= heater in/out
Yellow= turbo coolant (interesting that in and out are on the same branch of the coolant pipe
Blue= expansion tank
Orange= oil cooler built into the side of the oil pan

New configuration:



Red= expansion tank
Green= radiator lower hose
Blue= turbo coolant in/out (I used the old oil cooler out from head and old coolant inlet on main pipe)
Yellow= turbo oil pressure (banjo) and drain

Motor mount stuff (I used the C-clamp to put some compression on the mount. I can add washers if it compresses too much under engine weight)



Probable alternator location

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Old 11-16-2018, 05:26 PM   #640
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Looking good!
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Old Yesterday, 08:06 PM   #641
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No AC?
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Old Yesterday, 08:50 PM   #642
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No AC?
No AC. The E30 isn’t equipped for it either. It was a stripped euro car. No AC and no power steering. Worked well for me.
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Old Today, 12:13 AM   #643
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Quote:
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Yellow= turbo coolant (interesting that in and out are on the same branch of the coolant pipe
The water cooling circuit for a turbo doesn't need much pressure differential, just flow. The crucial thing is that water can thermal siphon through the center housing after the engine shuts down, which reduces heat soakback from the turbine side into the bearing and seals. Having water there to wick heat away greatly reduces oil coke formation.

The thermal siphon concept is weird but basically the most critical time to cool a turbo is right after a hot shutdown. With the engine oil pump and water pump stopped, there's no forced cooling of the turbo but there's a ton of heat in the exhaust side that needs to go somewhere. By clocking the water ports to have one side slightly higher than the other, hot water will naturally rise out the high side and cooler water will flow in to take its place from the low side. You get a passive cooling effect that's significant enough to make a big difference.

Short version: try to rotate your center housing a few degrees and allow the higher of the two water lines to have a constant uphill run from the turbo back into the cooling system.
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Old Today, 12:59 AM   #644
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Quote:
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Short version: try to rotate your center housing a few degrees and allow the higher of the two water lines to have a constant uphill run from the turbo back into the cooling system.
Copy that.
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