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Old 04-17-2016, 06:01 PM   #1
CaseyHooligan
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Default Nitpick My Engine Build

I bought a 90' 740ti for way too much, drove it for a year and now it's getting a full engine rebuild, OCD factor 10.
Engine that came out was a B230FT, but non-squirter, skinny rods and main thrust in the wrong spot.
Long story short, I bought a complete "low miles" FT from a 94-940.. pulled it apart and in the process of over-thinking the rebuild.
I'm no stranger to engine building or machining in general but I want to be nit-picked and criticized in my decision making process.



I've set a "fuzzy" eventual goal of around double the HP and Torque of the stock engine.
Say about 300Hp and 360ft/lbs of torque, preferably lower in the RPM range with LOTS of power under the curve.
Quick spooling, lots of low-mid range torque, quick off the line.
My plan will include new and larger everything...
-Larger turbo, but not too big!(GTX2860R, PT4831B, EVO8 TD05, BW 6258)
-Larger intercooler
-Aftermarket EMS(?)
-Water/Meth injection
-Fabricated 3"+ exhaust
-Fabricated header
-Stronger transmission(T5, TH350?)
-Stronger ignition(MSD 6A with BTM or ?)
-Stronger engine/trans mounts

Engine is a 1994 B230FT low miles Squirter block with:
-Wiseco pistons and rings, custom crown pocket spec'd by RSI(RIP), about 9.4:1 with stock head volume.
-H-Beam rods 158mm Also spec'd by RSI, ARP fasteners.
-Stock Crank, micro polished journals, balanced.
-Cometic MLS head gasket(thickness TBD)
-ARP Main and Head studs, supplied by Yoshifab
-530 head casting, will be modified(unshrouding, CC adjustments)
-46mm intake valves(REV)
-38mm exhaust valves(REV)
-Yoshifab springs and retainers
-Ipd Turbo Cam
I'll expand this list and add detail as the build progresses.

As of 9/6/2016:
So Far I've got the short block together and starting the head rebuilding.



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Last edited by CaseyHooligan; 09-07-2016 at 02:22 AM..
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:01 AM   #2
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I would say water/meth is unnecessary at your desired power output.

My vote is T5 rather than th350, because I like shifting.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:35 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
I would say water/meth is unnecessary at your desired power output.

My vote is T5 rather than th350, because I like shifting.
You may be right, Water/meth injection is more of an overkill perhaps. But It would be an added FOS for higher boost settings if I go there later.

And yes, I also like shifting. The advantage of GM auto would be higher torque capacity which is also a Factor-of Safety item. On the other hand, Rebuilding and modifying a T5 seems fairly straight-forward.
The auto would be a bit easier on the drive line though.
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:26 PM   #4
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Either way you're probably looking at a custom driveline, so upgrade the driveline. May have to look in to the rear end if you are worried about torque, although I can't personally comment on your particular rear. A rebuilt t5 can be whipped up to handle 400 ftlbs pretty inexpensive if you do the work yourself.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:10 PM   #5
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This is my way of handling a rebuild. Nice! Gonna follow this.

It's a nooby question, but how do you know what size piston and/or piston rings you need. Have you measured the bore before ordering?

edit: read over it, you verified everything. Okay
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Venlonaer View Post
This is my way of handling a rebuild. Nice! Gonna follow this.

It's a nooby question, but how do you know what size piston and/or piston rings you need. Have you measured the bore before ordering?

edit: read over it, you verified everything. Okay
Thanks Venlonaer,
So yes, I measured the block to determine the next oversize needed to clean up the bores.
I had a low miles 940 block with a low-wear, standard bore(96mm) and I wanted to use aftermarket forged pistons(Wiseco), those come in slightly different oversizes than stock pistons(Stock oversize is 96.3 and 96.6mm, Wiseco is 96.5mm), so ordered Wiseco 96.5mm pistons then had a machine shop bore and hone the block to 96.5mm+piston clearance(.114mm).
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:18 PM   #7
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As far as turbo goes, smile to dollar ratio of a evo 8 turbo is hard to beat. Id say you are on the right track. Fige made something like 360whp and 450ishftlbs. Having driven his car before on a spotty pump gas tune, i can tell you it was a riot.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:00 PM   #8
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As far as turbo goes, smile to dollar ratio of a evo 8 turbo is hard to beat. Id say you are on the right track. Fige made something like 360whp and 450ishftlbs. Having driven his car before on a spotty pump gas tune, i can tell you it was a riot.
Yep, EVO8 seems to be right in there spec-wise after looking at the details. turbine flange is divided too.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:28 PM   #9
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Default Block Prep

I managed to inspect the block machining and all looks good so I did a little deburring and smoothing of the parting lines in the casting and any sharp edges.
I gave the block a bit of scrutiny and decided the oil filter ports looked a bit sharp and restrictive so smoothed and enlarged them a bit:



After checking dimensions and deburring, I cleaned the block really, really well using detergent, a pressure washer and oil galley brushes from Summit. Then washed it again! I wiped the machined surfaces with a little WD-40 to prevent flash rust and masked for painting.
One thing I should point out is DON'T USE RED RAGS! they leave tons of lint which clog oil filters, ask me how I know.. Paper towels at least but lint-free clothes preferably.

I obviously painted the block Eye-searing red, Eastwood 2k in a can. Most money ever spent on rattle can paint but an excellent product, covers oh so well.

Just as a cheap insurance item, I drew up some freeze plug retainers, water-jetted them from .080" 6061 Alum. and carefully drilled and tapped the block for 4mm stainless button head screws. careful not to go into the water jacket!
Also replaced the freeze plugs with new OEM steel plugs(press-in type) and installed them with a bit of Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3.
I just can't decide which retainer design I like best.. Maybe ALL OF THEM?



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Old 04-21-2016, 07:25 PM   #10
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Seems like the open ones would collect grease and grime, but they look really cool. I like the Volvo symbol and the turbo ones the best.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:48 AM   #11
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Those freeze plug retainers look sweet!
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:08 PM   #12
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I agree with Tuff240, the open retainers look really cool but they're going to hold grease and road dirt against your freeze plugs. If it were mine I would run the bottle opener in the easiest spot to reach/clean and closed ones on the rest.
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Old 05-03-2016, 01:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
Seems like the open ones would collect grease and grime, but they look really cool. I like the Volvo symbol and the turbo ones the best.
I agree also.

all the ladies will get wet just hearing about them...


maybe do solid ones with those designed etched into them instead

my favorite would be the firs one


protip - oven cleaner works wonders when you want to strip paint from the redblocks
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:37 PM   #14
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I agree also.

all the ladies will get wet just hearing about them...


maybe do solid ones with those designed etched into them instead

my favorite would be the firs one


protip - oven cleaner works wonders when you want to strip paint from the redblocks
Oh yeah, I'm gonna' scare up serious strange with these retainers... Especially when I make them in burnt Ti.

Seriously though, no one likes the bottle opener!? You can crack a cold one whilst changing your oil! Dual purpose.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:15 PM   #15
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I got the crank in the block now, Spent a bit of time to install bearings, torque caps without crank in so I could measure inner bearing diameter to check clearance.
Then carefully cleaned, lubed and installed crank and caps, all is well and rotates freely.
Important details:
-Crank is standard but on the small side of tolerance after polishing but all main diameters within .0001" of each other with no measurable taper or out of round.
-Main bearing clearance is .0028" to .0031" overall
-Torqued the ARP studs to 90ft/lbs(with correct lube) 3 seperate times to reduce scatter.
-Used Lucas Semi-Synthetic assembly lube on bearings.

I still need to check end play of the crank with dial indicator but it "feels" fine so far.


One thing I did do that might be worth noting, I used the larger outer diameter washers on the main studs instead of the small ones, which are a smidge smaller than the flange on the nuts, now it's a bit larger:



Also, These are very helpful to have:


Last edited by CaseyHooligan; 05-04-2016 at 09:26 PM..
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:02 PM   #16
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I made a simple set of tools to install the oil seals into the cover about 1mm deeper and parallel to the mounting face, but not before cleaning the covers and giving them a light bead-blast.
I also removed the extended lip under the cam belt pulley, Mainly to prevent loose debris like small rocks from getting jammed between the belt and the lip.
I may design and make a belt cover similar to what Audi used on some of their rally cars(Kevlar).
And I splurged on 12 point SS fasteners from ARP, because I am a fastener fetishist.

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Old 05-23-2016, 06:12 PM   #17
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That's a really nice paint job. Most people miss the underside.

Scared to ask how much the SS ARP bolts were.

Is that a cheap rear main seal? I'd splurge on a Volvo one there. Front 3 are easy to change, but you used Volvo ones there?

Nice seeing all the detail work. It's lost on most people here.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
That's a really nice paint job. Most people miss the underside.

Scared to ask how much the SS ARP bolts were.

Is that a cheap rear main seal? I'd splurge on a Volvo one there. Front 3 are easy to change, but you used Volvo ones there?

Nice seeing all the detail work. It's lost on most people here.
second the OE rear main seal

great work man, keep it up...

Pat is right about everything he just said
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
That's a really nice paint job. Most people miss the underside.

Scared to ask how much the SS ARP bolts were.

Is that a cheap rear main seal? I'd splurge on a Volvo one there. Front 3 are easy to change, but you used Volvo ones there?

Nice seeing all the detail work. It's lost on most people here.
Thanks, I tried to leave as little uncoated iron as possible by using the gaskets as a guide for masking.
The ARP bolts were about $50, but I just couldn't bring myself to putting the old fasteners back in.
The seals are Victor Reinz, In my experience the brand is less important than the care of installation. Also a good functioning crankcase venting system is absolutely critical, However I'm waiting on a back ordered OEM RMS just for goodness sake.

Last edited by CaseyHooligan; 05-23-2016 at 07:13 PM.. Reason: change of heart
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:34 PM   #20
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Thanks, I tried to leave as little uncoated iron as possible by using the gaskets as a guide for masking.
The ARP bolts were about $50, but I just couldn't bring myself to putting the old fasteners back in.
The seals are Victor Reinz, In my experience the brand is less important than the care of installation. Also a good functioning crankcase venting system is absolutely critical, However I'm waiting on a back ordered OEM RMS just for goodness sake.
$50 just for the front cover or what else did you get them for?

The VR seals will get hard with heat and start to weep after 15-20k miles. I use the VR's for most of the paper gaskets with a really light film of rtv just to ensure they won't leak a drop.

Also, if you can switch to soda blasting, it's much better than bead blasting. The beads (and anything coarse) will open up the pores and dust/grease/oil will stick to the metal really bad. If all you have available to you is bead, maybe paint them. I often mist a coat of aluminum spray paint on the silver parts (I get it at Napa) just to seal the pores and make them look perfectly uniform and new.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:50 PM   #21
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$50 just for the front cover or what else did you get them for?

The VR seals will get hard with heat and start to weep after 15-20k miles. I use the VR's for most of the paper gaskets with a really light film of rtv just to ensure they won't leak a drop.

Also, if you can switch to soda blasting, it's much better than bead blasting. The beads (and anything coarse) will open up the pores and dust/grease/oil will stick to the metal really bad. If all you have available to you is bead, maybe paint them. I often mist a coat of aluminum spray paint on the silver parts (I get it at Napa) just to seal the pores and make them look perfectly uniform and new.
The fasteners are ARP#770-1017, 6mm X 16mm 12 point. I bought 3 sets of 5pcs from summit for $59 with shipping. I had 1 leftover.
The seals were bought as kits from IPD and are VR, I did a lot of research and the only real consensus is that Elring seals are spotty. Most people are convinced that OEM is the best.. Maybe so, maybe.
Also, I know what you mean about blasted raw aluminum being very reactive and picking up fingerprints and such, I always clean alum parts with straight simple green and hot water, which seems to produce a nice oxide layer, plus I soak parts with WD40 and leave for a few days. Works well for me, worst case I'll soak with clear Alodine for a few minutes. I tend not to like painting aluminum, it never sticks that well long term even with etching primer.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:10 AM   #22
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The seals were bought as kits from IPD and are VR, I did a lot of research and the only real consensus is that Elring seals are spotty. Most people are convinced that OEM is the best.. Maybe so, maybe.
I've built lots of spotless detailed motors, probably more than anyone on this forum. Trust me, Volvo seals are better.

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Also, I know what you mean about blasted raw aluminum being very reactive and picking up fingerprints and such, I always clean alum parts with straight simple green and hot water, which seems to produce a nice oxide layer, plus I soak parts with WD40 and leave for a few days. Works well for me, worst case I'll soak with clear Alodine for a few minutes. I tend not to like painting aluminum, it never sticks that well long term even with etching primer.
I don't use primer. A good clean part shouldn't need it.
After the part is thoroughly cleaned I use Castrol Super Clean and a scotch brite pad. Rinse thoroughly with water and compressed air dry. Then mist the "aluminum paint on immediately.
I pressure washed this (my daily driver) once every 7-10 days for a couple years.

Pic of Badger's engine bay with 610k miles

Aluminum paint I use:



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Old 05-24-2016, 02:52 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
I've built lots of spotless detailed motors, probably more than anyone on this forum. Trust me, Volvo seals are better.


I don't use primer. A good clean part shouldn't need it.
After the part is thoroughly cleaned I use Castrol Super Clean and a scotch brite pad. Rinse thoroughly with water and compressed air dry. Then mist the "aluminum paint on immediately.
I pressure washed this (my daily driver) once every 7-10 days for a couple years.
Sounds like a good method, I'll give it a try.
I went ahead and removed the VR seals and ordered Volvo seals too.
Thanks for steering me right guys!

Last edited by CaseyHooligan; 05-25-2016 at 12:11 AM.. Reason: shortening response
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:00 AM   #24
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I went ahead and removed the VR seals and ordered Volvo seals too.
You're doing such a nice job, just hate to see it start leaking after a few thousand miles.

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Old 05-31-2016, 01:25 AM   #25
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While I'm waiting on more OEM oil seals to arrive, I balanced the piston assemblies.
It's probably massive overkill on a motor that wont likely see north of 7K rpm but I just can't leave well enough alone.
I weighed piston/rings/pin/clips as assemblies and found 3 to be fairly close(within .3gms) but one piston was .75gms heavier than the lightest, fine really but it's so easy at this point to fix.
So after an hour of dremeling, sanding and scotchbrite, I had on overall difference of .08gms.
That'll do it.
I was careful to only remove material from "Dead Material" or sharp corners rather. Nothing from critical features, and also tried to remove it in a symmetric way so as not to move the CG of the piston too far.





For those who'd like to see the specs on the RSI/Wiseco pistons:


Here is a comparison of the piston crown pocket or "Waveguide" as RSI calls it.
Honestly though, I can't help but feel like this is just a selling point and of no real consequence.


Hope these smaller pictures fit better, after looking at this post on another machine with a normal sized monitor, I realized how huge the photos were!
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