• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

b230ft in 145i Build thread

Definition of a good TB build right here. Great work thus far- I love your homebrew solutions to the swap issues you encountered.

M.
 
So i have learned a good lesson about not using cheep parts. For the oil line to the turbo i used cheep aftermarket smoosh washers and also for the oil extender arm i used a non volvo o-ring for the part the sits flat on the bloke. This all led to a rather nasty oil leek. It was not dripping but rather RUNNING out the bottom. Also the oil filter relocation arm is supported to on the side of the motor mount on a 740. because i did my own mounts to make it fit i just stuck a bolt there and put some nuts around it to hold it in place. This was a bad idea.

23427_1322654798965_1608712812_735983_537193_n.jpg


Here we can see the difference in the washers that i used on the left and the volvo ones on the right.

23427_1322655118973_1608712812_735987_1500750_n.jpg


Volvo ones left, mine cheep ones on the right. and yes the inside diameter is larger on my cheep ones.

23427_1322655198975_1608712812_735988_7571938_n.jpg


Here it is all out and it was hell getting it out but way worse to get it all back in.

23427_1322655358979_1608712812_735989_2245652_n.jpg


oh ya did i mention that i had to drive 150 miles like this. Cost me 50 bucks in oil. I went through a quart every 50 miles. And gas station oil is expensive. The plus side is the bottom of my car is now rust protected now.

23427_1322655438981_1608712812_735990_1081905_n.jpg


Here it is all back in leek free. you can see the busing and washer setup i used to secure the support arm with. Used a volvo green o-ring and them volvo washers. Well see if this hold up better.

23427_1322655718988_1608712812_735994_4644126_n.jpg



Oil issue update.


Turns out the pip was cracked. not the flux solder but the pipe had a hairline crack 40% of the way around. about 1mm after the flux mark ends. Must be that after 250,000 miles in a 740 with a 13c tempered it. then after the 15g went on and the motor rebuilt. i must have had the pipe in a new position and the 2000 mile break in made it weaken and crack.

My neighbor has a tig see what he can do.
 
Last edited:
Also i did a bit of thread checkup above. Ill still keep adding past photos and explanation for the build until its all done. I hope to tackle the body this summer and then the interior this winter.

My goal for all of this was self motivated but the posting of all this is in vain hope that it will help others. I want more of the new turbo bickers here that are scared of doing their timing belt to think BIG. I had never done a full rebuild. To be brutally honest i thought the motor would explode when i first turned it over. 3,100 miles later and she is running better than ever.

Any one here can do it. Especially with the help of all the wonderful people on these boards. Just take your time don't half ass any thing on the inside of the block and you'll be fine.

Now go do something to your brick and post it dammit!
 
another issue im working on is the dreaded lh2.4 speed signal from the speedometer to the ECU. here is a link to the issue. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=132582&highlight=lh2* as malloy1 has figured out. You don't have to have to measure the correct speed. Just have to have the ECU know that its moving up or down. As of right now i have no issue with lh2.4 without it unless i rev the engine up a few times past 6k. so if you take it EZ its not an issue. But this is not a solution but rather a duct tape fix. So i now have something to present toward solving it for good.

23427_1322666319253_1608712812_736002_1031273_n.jpg


Now i jsut have to figure out where to mount the senser from the 740 diff. I'm thinking of making a mount off the tyranny to the drive shaft bolts as suggested by malloy. Problem from this tyranny approach is what if i decide to switch the tyranny to a different model.

Im thinking about mounting it off the diff to the drive bolts there. The issue with this approach is i think having it exposed way back there it will get dirty and foul. Might have to make a shield or something to protect it.
 
Last edited:
No gave him the pipe last night. Figure ill have to wait 2 days till he gets it back to me. he sid hes going to build up the area to make it strong but I would hate to have it fail again. im thinking about using -8 an to 14mm and 12mm adapters and just plum it with that.
 
Last edited:
No gave him the pipe last night. Figure ill have to wait 2 days till he gets it back to me. he sid hes going to build up the area to make it strong but I would hate to have it fail again. im thinking about using -8 an to 14mm and 12mm adapters and just plum it with that.

You can do that. I had a dude Mig my oil feed line and I never had problems with it again. Stainless or rubber lines work too, but I like metal simply because it won't deteriorate, and if it does fail it won't be as bad as rubber :lol:.

I've had it happen believe me!
 
Ok ill wait till hes done with it. and your right. if the metal goes like mine did you still have oil pressure. my light only came on after all the oil had ran out of the crack. and the pump had nothing to suck. So if metel does fail ya dont loose turbo or block. to dry run.
 
17443_1247572801962_1608712812_594593_7440200_n.jpg


problem with this setup is that my engine temps get low! like 160 with it up next to the fan like that. only when its 30 ish and im doing 55 to 65 mph. I plan on moving to Fairbanks Alaska in 2 years or so. might have to delete it when i get up there. Something who knows.
 
Stick an E-fan with adj. thermostat on it and be done! You might not even need a fan in alaska, lol, that is true.
 
Well looks like i have to do some more work.

So i had just got the computer learned and was testing out the 15psi of boost and had oil light come on at idle. So I'm pretty freaked out about it. Get the plug off the side of the oil pan and find that the oil pump transfer tube rubber ring had blown out.

23427_1326909865339_1608712812_747359_7604987_n.jpg


think its because i had no lip on the pipe to keep them in. Figure im going to thread the holes and use JIC fittings because this is a known problem even with the right tube.

Well i had 2 choices. 1) yank the motor to get the pan off 2) yank the x-member out underneath.

The front bushings are shot so im going the x-member route. this jsut gave me an excuse to do it the X-member way.

23427_1327981492129_1608712812_749224_3605962_n.jpg


23427_1327981612132_1608712812_749225_3954711_n.jpg


23427_1327981652133_1608712812_749226_189797_n.jpg


Sporting the motor with the picker.

23427_1327981692134_1608712812_749227_4610137_n.jpg


The getting the spindle off was a pain but DONE!

23427_1327981732135_1608712812_749228_8258049_n.jpg


23427_1327981772136_1608712812_749229_3859850_n.jpg


Ill keep ya all posted with the project.

I'm sure that when i have it all out and all i can see looking up is the body and frame ill get some grinding and rust removal/proofing done as well :p
 
Here is my spring 2009 project, pretty much same things and modifications. Got B230FB engine and M47 gearbox from 940 -92, equipped it with Garrett GT28RS Turbo & Intecooler and put all them to 142 -74. I moved distributor to the block

Dsc00377.jpg


Dsc00215.jpg


Dsc00220.jpg


hit a few times firewall with sledge hammer. Engine is same place where B20 egine were, so gearbox and drive shaft didn?t require moifications.

DSC00805.JPG


240 radiator & Large size intercooler

DSC00877.JPG


Air intake and power brake

DSC00965.JPG


940 cooling fan, ECU controlled

SDC10070.JPG


SDC10080.JPG


Radiator fitting

SDC10078.JPG


SDC10068.JPG


READY!

SDC10109.JPG


SDC10141.JPG


Whole project http://volvo.tonit.org
 
Last edited:
Dude I love it. I did find your site about 1/2 way through my project. It did help but yours is mounted a bit different. I used google translate to help a bit with your build. http://translate.google.com/transla...omp.com/syren/volvo/142/B230FT/142_b230ft.htm then one night i had my wifes finish friend come over and help me with a few of the lines i had questions about.

Nice to know someone else is doing it as well. And knows how much work is involved.

BTW yours is pretty sweet !
 
alright ill get my wife to vid a short clip of me burning out. have to kill the 165/65/15 that are on it. I put 185/65/15 on the front last month and im putin' the same on the rear on Friday. Guess i need to find an unoccupied parking lot. Hope i can get a no rain day here in Oregon :(

Got the bushings done. man that was a job. I need to do the ball joints up and bottom soon. Also i cant boost more than 14 right now or i get spark-blow out. tested the coil, its old and on its last leg along with the power stage ( ignition system that powers the coil ) not having the best readings either. I think they have 200+k miles on them from the car i pulled the motor out of before the rebuild.

Got allot more work to do just to get it running perfect. then onto the body.

Took many hours to grind all that rust out from under the x-member when it came out. along with some stuff i found hiding behind the fender wheel well so that took many moons. all said im pretty happy now that i get to drive it around.

as for power even with a weak coil not setting off the mix right if you are roiling about 4 mph in first and roll into it it will break loose even without revving it up before dumping the clutch.

Have to baby it in 3rd if its wet out too. Scary having the rear-end come out entering the highway on-ramp. need the 185's to put some of this power to the ground.

if your looking for a hoot this is the way to go for sure. loose all that weight and get a 140 series!
 
Well it never stops raining in Oregon so here is a late night vid thrown together. I'll try to do better on a nice sunny dry day. Do some burnouts for ya all but this should hold ya off till then.

on video 2 no im not slipping the clutch that's tires slipping on the pavement all the way to 55 mph. Man i want a dry day to really show this thing off. Its almost a pain in the rain. my ford contour would beat it on a rainy day. to much power ERRRRRR!

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/T2le8ReSin4&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/T2le8ReSin4&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/2QvuqT687mo&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/2QvuqT687mo&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tkB8egYmI4Q&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tkB8egYmI4Q&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
 
Back
Top