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Old 08-17-2019, 03:54 PM   #26
Redwood Chair
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Have any of you guys tried sport brake pads? The stock brakes are really great on a 140 series unless you are racing. Having sport brake pads, some drilled or slotted rotors, and stainless flex lines will give you incredible brakes for the street. Use a good DOT4 brake fluid as well.

The next stop in my experience would be to follow the suggestions above to use vented rotors. But that would only be needed for racing or lots of mountain driving in my opinion.

Pretty sure Old Priest Grade in Moccasin will cook your 140 brakes vented or not unless you use engine braking.
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 08-17-2019, 08:11 PM   #27
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Brake cooling ducts are also a straight forward thing to add. You'll need them anyway if you are racing.
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Old 08-18-2019, 02:51 AM   #28
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A friend races with Triumph Dolomite Gr1. In his class there is a 70+ year old guy racing with 142S, he has and had to have stock brakes minus brake pressure limiting valve. First he had Feredo pads, but now he uses std Lucas pads. He is complete happy with those.

I would guess that brake bias on stock 142 is pretty safe and conservative. Stiffer suspension and modern tyres would allow much more braking power at rear wheels that was designed 50 years ago.
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:03 PM   #29
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A little bit of an update...

The stock 140 (non-vented) brakes with no ducts and whatever pads came on the car are good enough for 6 full sessions at Road Atlanta running 1:49s.

Another issue I've run into is every lug stud on the car wanting to gall up and fail it seems. Since I have to replace them all I was thinking of redrilling hubs/axles to a bolt pattern I can get wheels for easily. But that also means needing different rotors... any bolt on rotors for another common bolt pattern that anyone knows of?
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:43 PM   #30
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Bring on the Willwood brackets, I say.

The book shows different part numbers for the 140 front hub (solid rotor) and the 164E front hub (vented rotor).

Aside from the 10mm longer wheel studs on the 164E hub, are there any other differences between the 140 and 164E hubs?

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Old 08-30-2019, 06:22 PM   #31
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The hubs are sold as an assembly with studs and bearings so there's a different part number for vented and non vented rotor hubs but the actual hubs are the same.

If you look at the 164 parts catalog you'll see the item number for the hub is circled. That means it's sold as an assembly. The part numbers after the hub in the catalog that have a dot before the description are included in the assembly.
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