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Old 09-01-2019, 09:35 PM   #51
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Modern pump gas is cut with ethanol low octane crap gas.
I agree
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Old 09-01-2019, 09:55 PM   #52
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I can still get 100+ octane gas right out of the pump at a local Chevron. It is expensive as heck. That said, on race night, it is just what you need.
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Old 09-01-2019, 10:47 PM   #53
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I can still get 100+ octane gas right out of the pump at a local Chevron. It is expensive as heck. That said, on race night, it is just what you need.
^

I used to buy 100 octane race gas for $5/ gal [ $11.92 in today's dollars] at a 24 hour member only fueling station back in the mid 80's for the 70 145.

Smoothed out the idle, it pulled like a race horse from a stop, and flew up the hill to Tahoe like nobody's business.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-01-2019, 11:03 PM   #54
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Your version of this hobby involves viral rocks and pennies in the valve train videos and posting unwanted and poorly informed opinions. Go polish your gun, it will keep you warm and abate some of your tiny penis insecurity complex.

There's plenty of G80 swap information available, why are you wasting bandwidth with your feeble post? Search noob.
Excuse me....where's the "like" button?
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:48 PM   #55
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If your time is worth anything, just put some good fuel and a good tune in it and send it. You can take a stock ft engine pretty far.

And if we're talking ecotec turbo engines, I've put enough pistons in them under warranty to safely say it's not a great idea to run them on 87 octane and not pay attention to their crap transmission strategies that lock the converter up in high gear and low rpm, load the engine up and send the ring lands out in pieces with the next oil change.

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Old 09-03-2019, 11:20 PM   #56
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Don't bother with pump fuel or racing ga$.

https://www.thunderboltracingfuel.com/

We have been using this for a few years now. Very consistent and economical in our 1/4mile cars (3) 10sec 9sec and 598" 8sec
We buy it by the drum.
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Old 09-04-2019, 07:51 AM   #57
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If your time is worth anything, just put some good fuel and a good tune in it and send it. You can take a stock ft engine pretty far.

And if we're talking ecotec turbo engines, I've put enough pistons in them under warranty to safely say it's not a great idea to run them on 87 octane and not pay attention to their crap transmission strategies that lock the converter up in high gear and low rpm, load the engine up and send the ring lands out in pieces with the next oil change.
It's a B23F not FT. I read about the ecotec engines self destructing and they sell enough pistons that they're only $22.00ea.
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Old 09-04-2019, 07:51 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Don't bother with pump fuel or racing ga$.

https://www.thunderboltracingfuel.com/

We have been using this for a few years now. Very consistent and economical in our 1/4mile cars (3) 10sec 9sec and 598" 8sec
We buy it by the drum.
I'm thinking freight would be a killer from the left coast.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:04 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by turbotankshane View Post
If your time is worth anything, just put some good fuel and a good tune in it and send it. You can take a stock ft engine pretty far.

And if we're talking ecotec turbo engines, I've put enough pistons in them under warranty to safely say it's not a great idea to run them on 87 octane and not pay attention to their crap transmission strategies that lock the converter up in high gear and low rpm, load the engine up and send the ring lands out in pieces with the next oil change.
if they're DI engines, the makeup of engine oil also plays heavily into low speed knock.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:15 PM   #60
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4 psi.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:42 PM   #61
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4 psi.
Before this thread existed, I said to mikep in actual face-to-face conversation: 7 psi with a large compressor housing and really efficient intercooler (this was before I knew John was peeling apart the sandwich to see if there were pickles inside)
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Old 09-09-2019, 01:32 PM   #62
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Before this thread existed, I said to mikep in actual face-to-face conversation: 7 psi with a large compressor housing and really efficient intercooler (this was before I knew John was peeling apart the sandwich to see if there were pickles inside)
There is a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan, but no pickles yet.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:36 PM   #63
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if they're DI engines, the makeup of engine oil also plays heavily into low speed knock.
You've piqued my curiosity, how so?
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:20 AM   #64
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https://www.oronite.com/about/news/l...-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:49 AM   #65
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There is a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan, but no pickles yet.
In the 14? years I have had it, it has been run probably 20-30 times. And I got the running car from a junkyard. The plates expired in 2000.
I changed the oil once.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:37 AM   #66
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In the 14? years I have had it, it has been run probably 20-30 times. And I got the running car from a junkyard. The plates expired in 2000.
I changed the oil once.
Just s comment not a criticism. Getting i the pan hot tanked today, maybe have turbo drain welded on tonight.

Last edited by VB242; 09-10-2019 at 11:07 AM..
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:06 PM   #67
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https://www.oronite.com/about/news/l...-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.
yep, BMWs and Minis will throw 'super knocking' codes for when this starts to happen and will eventually shut down individual cylinders.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:43 PM   #68
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I'm thinking freight would be a killer from the left coast.
At their price point (TB pricing) I'm not sure, need to find a local dealer?
Or become one!
I know they ship it all over the country.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:59 PM   #69
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https://www.oronite.com/about/news/l...-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.
Good read, thanks kenny!
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:16 PM   #70
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So it's finally all back together, except the shift knob, vacuum connection to the climate control and the hood. This was after the 3rd attempt for South Bend to get me the right clutch disk, a weekend spent gambling with 240240 in A/C, waiting for a second set of rings after I broke one from the first set swapping pistons back in the correct order in the block, et cetera, et cetera as the King of Siam said.



Adjusted Tuner Studio for the larger displacement and doggone it it won't start. Start troubleshooting and turn on the fuel pumps... Erratic pressure and cavitation noise from the underbody 044. Pull the DW300 from the tank and whaddya know, there's my problem. Stupid thing most likely blew up the motor, pretty bummed, I hope they at least warranty the pump, not sure how long ago I bought it but I only installed it last year.


And yes I bought it directly from Deatschwerks, I'll see what they say tomorrow.

Last edited by VB242; 10-02-2019 at 07:25 PM..
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:23 PM   #71
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I don’t see the visual problem with the pump? That sucks that it failed and caused all your issues though. Wonder how long it’s been lazy, did the wideband read lean a while before it grenaded?
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:28 PM   #72
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I don’t see the visual problem with the pump? That sucks that it failed and caused all your issues though. Wonder how long it’s been lazy, did the wideband read lean a while before it grenaded?
I put the leads directly to the battery, does not run. I didn't notice the wide band reading when the motor blew, I was merging onto the highway. I think the pump failure and motor destruction all happened very quickly. The tank is surprisingly rust free for being a 1980, still shiny on when I peep through the pump hole.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:04 AM   #73
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I put the leads directly to the battery, does not run. I didn't notice the wide band reading when the motor blew, I was merging onto the highway. I think the pump failure and motor destruction all happened very quickly. The tank is surprisingly rust free for being a 1980, still shiny on when I peep through the pump hole.
Dang it’s like when you buy a waterproof phone case and then submerge your phone for whatever reason and it completely gets destroyed, the company is like ".....well we can send you a new case to replace the faulty one..".
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:25 AM   #74
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that's a bitch. since you've got an 044 as a main pump, I'd say just drop in a regular 255 or something like that in-tank for the lift pump part.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:42 PM   #75
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that's a bitch. since you've got an 044 as a main pump, I'd say just drop in a regular 255 or something like that in-tank for the lift pump part.
They're going to replace the 300 under warranty, after they get a look at it if course. The tech guy said I could wire in a fuel pressure sensor to MS, and have it cut power if the pressure drops below a threshold. Do you know anything about this? He also said he blew a motor himself 2 months ago and was going to incorporate a sensor with his megasquirt. I'm on micro.
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