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Old 12-09-2014, 11:23 PM   #26
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Mild flange with stainless pice use 309 rod.
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Old 12-09-2014, 11:33 PM   #27
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waaaaaaay tooo hot!! you gotta cut way down on that heat. you're burning up all of the base material for a filler material that's so burned and sugared up it's going to crack crack, bad bad.

Are you running a standard cup? what amperage? tungsten? more details? technique? Just how much heat are you putting into this thing? what shape do you grind the tungsten in, even?
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
waaaaaaay tooo hot!! you gotta cut way down on that heat. you're burning up all of the base material for a filler material that's so burned and sugared up it's going to crack crack, bad bad.

Are you running a standard cup? what amperage? tungsten? more details? technique? Just how much heat are you putting into this thing? what shape do you grind the tungsten in, even?
Looks to me like he actually needs more heat, more speed, a tungsten much closer to the work piece, and a much cleaner workpiece. Just because a weld isn't shiny doesn't automatically mean turn the amps down. If your technique is right you should be able to perform that weld at 160amps, maybe even close to 200. not that I would, but I could. The filler rod would need to be fairly large and it would get dipped in the puddle about twice a second. That pace is hard to keep up, but the point is you could make a shiny weld on a flange like that with a machine set to 200Amps, and the pedal to the metal. I doubt he's running that hot. What I see is spots along the tube where the arc has "wandered" up away from where the weld is being done. Need to practice holding the torch in whatever way allows you to best brace and steady your hand so you can keep the tungsten damned close to the puddle.

Yes the internet wisdom is turn the heat down, use a gas lense, and weld 1/4" at a time to make the welds look "pretty", but those are all half truths and don't necessarily equal a mechanically sound weld...

Especially on a curved surface, always do a "dry run". Figure out how to position yourself and the workpiece so that you can move in a way that's precise and steady.ave a clear plan for how the torch is going to move and how you will hold it and how close it will be form the workpiece before you strike the arc. With enough time this becomes second nature, but starting out, it's very important.
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:28 AM   #29
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Thx Bondo, appreciate your help very much

i bought a house recently which made all my projects come to be disrupted...

I definately post more pics when my 16v goes into the racecar
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:18 PM   #30
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Hey my recommendation on the welds is fuse as much as you can keep your heat down and have your pedal all the way down at your desired heat and keep your tungsten sharp and practice before adding filler on a piece of scrap good luck!!!!
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Old 05-22-2015, 04:47 AM   #31
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getting back to this project...

T3 Twinscroll or T4 Twinscroll.. which is "better" more suiteable to a 16v 4 banger? T3TS looks so damn tight...
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:00 AM   #32
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I believe nathan went from a T3 TwinScroll to a T4 TwinScroll on the same turbo just with a matching housing and he picked up quicker spool up and more top end power.

My next manifold is for sure going to be T4 TwinScroll.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:44 AM   #33
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Work harder maddog!
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:17 AM   #34
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No question. T4. I don't fully understand the dynamics behind it, but Mike is right, quicker spool and less header back pressure. I ran a divided .84
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:29 AM   #35
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Do you know where to get hx 40 t4 housings?

I have also read about the first holsets with watercooling.. But only on the hx35 cores..


Towz... Mh.. Yes.. Maybe you should get me some fries so i have more energy to do so.. ;)
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:55 PM   #36
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A garrett t4 housing for a p-trim wheel fits the hx40 with very minor tweaking. I did this with an hx40 pro on my t6. It was very awesome. 540/467 with full boost by about 2500rpm.
Youd' think it would suck since turbos are such precise things, but it was amazing, I loved it. I could honestly not have imagined a better street turbo.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:09 PM   #37
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That really sounds great..


Do you have any infos on those modifications which need to be done to the housing?

I would fear the missing exhaustvolume.. T6 has 3l.. My engine only 2.3..?
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:56 PM   #38
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The exact details can be found via Google, but basically the major diameter of the holset is a few mm larger so the opening in the housing needs to be enlarged. Not really a diy job, but a simple task for a machine shop.

As far as exhaust volume goes, well, it's a 600+whp capable turbo. Good spool is relative. It's an 86mm compressor wheel. IMO this size of turbo is definitely not for everyone, for a street driven 2.3. In my opinion response vs power capability is about as good as it gets though. It way outspooled my borg warner 83/75, which had a good reputation itself. I guess there is fancier stuff now days but the holset is still a good option just because it can be easily rebuit with basic tools and is very cheap to do. P trim housings are cheap and there are many a/r ratios to choose from.
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Old 07-24-2015, 05:14 AM   #39
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so.. where to get exhaust flanges nowadays?

Nathan? Do you sell SS flanges?
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:27 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
so.. where to get exhaust flanges nowadays?

Nathan? Do you sell SS flanges?
http://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/...gar/index.html

Or you can just try to find a local waterjet place. Although The price for those is quite competitive, for some time I operated such a machine and the process is quite slow and lots of $$/hour.
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:38 AM   #41
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Another European place for exhaust and manifold parts is http://swedenexhaust.se/
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:27 AM   #42
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I've tried local Laser centres.. they want 70 bucks each.. same as ordering in Sweden.. im searching a store where such a flange only costs 35 bucks.. which is a much more adequade price for a pice of metal with holes in it in my eyes... man.. pricey stuff.. grml
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:37 AM   #43
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For example last year I cut 2 3-cylinder whiteblock flanges, 2 T3 flanges, 2 TD04 downpipe flanges (for a t6 bi-turbo project). Took roughly 90 minutes to cut them, 10 mm stainless. At a rate of ~100 euro an hour all-in, thats easily 200 euro with material when the drawing is correct and doesn't need fixing (errors are almost guaranteed when you use free software like google sketchup). The machine itself costs ~300K and needs to pay for itself too, including some new parts every 50 hours or so. Stainless steel 10 mm is ~500 euro/m2. It is an expensive hobby, i know what you mean

You have a plasmacutter? make a nice wooden pattern as a guide and cut them yourself? Not that hard.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:43 AM   #44
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I once tried that... :D

Plasma Cut that 12mm SS they said... ..will be fun they said...


It ended up in SS Sugar all over the place ;) my Plasmacutter only does 50A
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:32 AM   #45
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Ah too bad. Mine only goes to 40A and indeed that stops at ~8 mm normal steel for a quality cut.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:31 AM   #46
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I get my flanges from RSI or Yoshifab
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:57 PM   #47
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Damn.. Right now yoshifab sells only smartphones :D. Thx for the info anyway ;)
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:41 PM   #48
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i can get watercut cutting also, PM me... hell i am babysitting the machine right now!
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:26 AM   #49
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Thx for the offer, got some flanges now

So.. how do you merge oval to round? I would make a jig and slamming the **** out of a piece of tube until in fits ;) Any suggestions? Would you tuck it into the flange or onto?
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:30 AM   #50
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Put it in a vice and squeeeeeze till oval!
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