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Old 06-27-2019, 02:24 PM   #1
basicbrick
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Default one more 93 Regina +T thread

I just pulled everything I needed from a turbo 940 with intention being to +T my regina (basic 13c build) I will post pictures when possible. My goal is a quick and dirty +T that will run. I have reviewed the existing +T Regina threads to the best of my understanding. I have never done a plus T but have had one before that someone else converted which I replaced a turbo on.

My first step is to remove the old exhaust manifold and downpipe. My question is: are oxygen sensors the same in each downpipe? Or should I use the original 'regina's' oxygen sensor , and bolt it on the new turbo downpipe? Thank you
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Old 06-27-2019, 02:42 PM   #2
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Use original o2 sensor.
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Old 06-27-2019, 03:57 PM   #3
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The Regina 02 is very different than the LH unit. As said above make sure to retain the Regina 02 sensor.
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Old 06-28-2019, 12:52 PM   #4
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Has anyone ever filled a turbo with oil and blocked off the in/out with a bolt or other method? Just so I can move car into parking lot or onto a tow truck (by starting the car and driving it ) obviously water and oil are not connected yet
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Old 06-28-2019, 06:34 PM   #5
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I would recommend not to have the turbo on the car without oil lines hooked up.
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Old 06-28-2019, 06:48 PM   #6
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I had my 1993 940 Regina car with a marine flywheel with a m47 transmission it was alot of fun with 5 psi. This is what I did, added wire to move the air tempture sender to the intake side of the turbo intake hose, replaced the fuel pressure regulator for the 3 bar, got a -4 AN to 1/4 NPT fitting from the plug in the front of the motor by the water pump and drill and tapped a hole for the turbo were the normal pipe in the block would go (make sure you flush out the oil pan for metal shavings. Use the same 02 sensors, and map sensors. PM me if you need a more details.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:23 PM   #7
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I figured LH and Regina both used a somewhat similar universal heated o2 sensor.
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeaves42 View Post
got a -4 AN to 1/4 NPT fitting from the plug in the front of the motor by the water pump and drill and tapped a hole for the turbo were the normal pipe in the block would go
will keep ya guys posted. i almost bailed out, due to doubt , but on other hand already pulled the parts.

Last edited by basicbrick; 07-01-2019 at 12:46 PM..
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Old 07-01-2019, 11:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
I figured LH and Regina both used a somewhat similar universal heated o2 sensor.
From the 700/900 FAQ

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Regina vs. Bosch Oxygen Sensors

The Bendix/Siemens Regina fuel injection systems use a titania-type sensor which varies resistance and is not interchangeable with the Bosch zirconia units which create a varying voltage signal. This sensor does not work with a .5 V reference out of the ECM as do the Bosch versions. The Regina unit uses the heater power supply to feed a sensor circuit which responds to O2-level variations. The Bosch zirconia unit measures an electrochemical reaction and the heater merely maintains the temperature stability of the sensor and does not supply current to be modified and used as output signal.

Compared to the more common zirconia O2 sensors, titania sensors have three advantages: (1) they don't need an air reference (there is no internal venting to the outside atmosphere to plug up); (2) they have a fast warm-up time (about 15 seconds); and (3) they work at lower exhaust temperatures (they won't cool off at idle and they can be located further downstream from the engine or used with turbochargers). See the notes below regarding the use of generic sensors in Regina cars. A direct replacement for the Regina sensor is an NGK 25002: Amazon has a good price on these.
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt20.pdf
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:06 AM   #10
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^ how weird! I thought all NB O2 sensors varied voltage from .1-.9V. Now i know.
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:31 PM   #11
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This is what I did, added wire to move the air temperature sender to the intake side of the turbo intake hose, .
can someone help me understand this part? I am sure I can find the temp sensor, but Where did you add it? On the throttle side or the turbo side of the ?intercooler? hoses?
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by basicbrick View Post
can someone help me understand this part? I am sure I can find the temp sensor, but Where did you add it? On the throttle side or the turbo side of the ?intercooler? hoses?
He extended the wires that go the air temperature sender(located on driver side but when turboed, re-located to pre-turbo on the the turbo intake side(passenger side)).
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:38 PM   #13
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Basically, you want that IAT sensor to tell the ecu the exact temp of the air RIGHT before it goes into the engine not before it goes into the intercooler or turbo. That’s how I see it, at least.
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:29 PM   #14
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makes sense to me. here is picture of the IAT sensor...





thats the IAT right? before I start hackin away and using JB weld
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:44 PM   #15
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Yes, why do you need jb weld? In a normal turbo bosch car, this is where the amm is situated(look at picture). eeaves42, said he relocated the iat to pre-turbo(this is why you need to extend wires).

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Old 07-11-2019, 06:03 PM   #16
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your right, thought I had to plumb the sensor into a hose for some reason , but looks like I can just use the original housing
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
Yes, why do you need jb weld? In a normal turbo bosch car, this is where the amm is situated(look at picture). eeaves42, said he relocated the iat to pre-turbo(this is why you need to extend wires).

[img][/img]
So why would you want the IAT pre turbo? Wouldn’t you want the computer to inject the amount of fuel needed at the time of combustion rather than before the air is compressed?

It becomes warmer and more dense by the time it reaches the engine. Having the sensor detect it right before it enters the engine will allow it to give the correct amount of fuel, at least that’s how it seems to me.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:43 PM   #18
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The Regina IAT sensor and housing I would guess are not ideal for boost.... That in itself might be enough reason to move it.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:12 AM   #19
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Quick update, I have the turbo on, oil lines hooked up, and the exhaust/downpipe connected. Car starts and idles fine, but there is still a bunch of stuff to do (intercooler, air intake)

(I do have the FPR and the injectors from a 740 turbo) I plan to hook those up. Assuming those are better than the stock regina stuff

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343267
^ this was most helpful thread for helping me

Last edited by basicbrick; 08-29-2019 at 11:41 AM..
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Old 08-29-2019, 12:50 PM   #20
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I'd like to understand the benefits of using a wideband into a controller simulating narrowband to the ECU like jvluntzel did, vs. just using the OG Regina O2 sensor?

I guess I'm confused by what a Regina ECU expects to see...
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:43 PM   #21
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I'd like to understand the benefits of using a wideband into a controller simulating narrowband to the ECU like jvluntzel did, vs. just using the OG Regina O2 sensor?

I guess I'm confused by what a Regina ECU expects to see...
Me too because Regina NBO2 are weird.
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:32 PM   #22
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My question is way more basic......Got car running. Ran not too bad on the original injectors and the small FPR. I dropped in some turbo 740 injectors and the 3.0fpr (I think) and now runs very rough but driveable, some smoke on WOT. Any thoughts?

This is what I came up with, probably wrong so that is why I am clearing it through here

-IAC ---> air filter hose
-CBV ---> vacuum tree
-Separator box ---> air filter hose
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by basicbrick View Post
My question is way more basic......Got car running. Ran not too bad on the original injectors and the small FPR. I dropped in some turbo 740 injectors and the 3.0fpr (I think) and now runs very rough but driveable, some smoke on WOT. Any thoughts?

This is what I came up with, probably wrong so that is why I am clearing it through here

-IAC ---> air filter hose
-CBV ---> vacuum tree
-Separator box ---> air filter hose
You need high impedance injectors unless you wired in the resistor pack. You’ll be lucky if you didn’t do damage to the ECU.

Get some 850T injectors because they are high impedance and a direct drop in.
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:00 PM   #24
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Doh! What color are the 850T ones? I will revert to the old ones or read about the resistor pack.
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:40 PM   #25
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Doh! What color are the 850T ones? I will revert to the old ones or read about the resistor pack.
They are orange-ish
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