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School me oh Brickmasters

m cam is just for low to mid range torque. Not much but it makes it a little more bearable please note that it doesn't give you any power gain. That being said I'm changing to a bigger cam not sure which yet.
 
That designation is the factory turbo cam in comparison to the M cam? Quick google search yields lots of A/B IPD turbo and VX cam discussion but not much M.
 
That's because a lot of people just chuck the M cam as junk.

The M cam, being stock mostly is a torque-y cam. The turbo will then magnify the cams capabilities.

Certainly there are better breathing cams, researching profiles and fitting them based on your needs will be a good start.
 
The stock turbo cam was a TURD.

I couldnt believe how much power the car picked up with the ipd turbo cam mid and top end.
 
Picked up power isn't strictly an accurate way to state that. It is, but the other factor is where in the power curve that power is. That will shift a lot with a cam and it's timing.
 
I'm running a similar setup in my Amazon;
OEM Stage 0 '96 B230FK (13mm rods and squirters)
Mildly ported head (smoothended out casting edges)
IPD Turbo cam (straight up)
Mitsu 15G ported hotside @18psi
Ported +90 manifold
Saab 391cc/min Lucas D5162AE injectors (barely keeping up)
2,5" exhaust
EMS + wideband + Dis coil

Dyno'd 226,7 Hk @5511rpm / 373,6 Nm @3691rpm
The curves makes it a very fun and straatable car.
I never even bothered about the oem 'T' turbo cam so i can not relate to any difference, but i love the IPD. I'm curious about the 19t upgrade.
From what i read over a 15G it doesn't loose too much spooltime, low or mid power, maybe just a little. If you go that route, sure do post results to confirm (or refute) this.
 
When i first popped the ipd cam in i was really diappointed with how much low end torque i lost. after advancing the cam timing i got it back to the point where i didnt notice the lost power at all and the mid and upper end power was excellent. I don't spin the motor up crazy high so it was a really good improvement over the stock cam.

The 15G i was very happy with, a little more power up top would have been nice but if i'm going to spend the money i'd like to explore as many options as i can. The 15G on the car was out of a 850 car from the yard that cost 20 bucks and i put 35K on it. Heck if i didn't "rebuild" it out of precaution i would have been ok i believe. But im trying to have a fun reliable car, it was unknown condition so im kinda kicking myself for going through it.

A quick search for kinguawa shows they have a bolt in 19T now for the 740/940 cars that has my interests peaked.
s-l500.jpg
 
Check the exhaust housing on that, it might be conical and therefore waaayy too small.
 
Definitely conical, to make it a direct bolt on. It also appears to have an externally vented bypass valve.

It'll be more economical to "build" your own 19t with a straight, or preferred angled turbine housing.
 
I snagged a good used 16T from the salvage yard on a half price day.....and picked up a Kinugawa 19T housing from white855T. I'm hoping to have around $275 in it when it's all said and done. Decided to stick with the flat flange that's on it, but white855T has the angled flanges if you decide to go that route. I chose flat because....easy and from what I've read the gains are marginal flat flange to angled(kicks beehive).

I'll hold onto the 19T until I get my T5 installed as again this is my DD and I can't afford to stranded with a trashed AW70. I'm tippy toeing on it now with my T3 just so I don't have to worry about problems.
 
There's a pretty good improvement between the flat and angled housings, based on the change I made on the wife's R between the two. Really helped spool time and mid-upper end power.
 
Damnit man.....I had that all settled in my mind now you've kicked the hive over in my head! It's just finding someone to weld that angled cut 3" vband to the housing. Maybe I can send it to someone here on Tbricks to do it?
 
thismachine13 said:
..... Decided to stick with the flat flange that's on it, but white855T has the angled flanges if you decide to go that route. I chose flat because....easy and from what I've read the gains are marginal flat flange to angled(kicks beehive).
Click to expand...

I just finished a TD04 7cm housing "flat flange" with 3" Vband TIG'd to it, that I also bought from white855T.

Repeatedly on TB, I see folks claiming a big power gain that the funky angle flange housing gives TO A REDBLOCK. My research says there is zero gain by going larger than 3" exhaust until you are north of 500HP. Perhaps the guys running whiteblocks in the 400~500HP range need that angle flange exhaust.

Anybody got proof? I'm not seeing that single passage as the choke point that it is repeatedly accused of being (kicks whitefaced hornet nest).
 
Wasn't on a redblock, admittedly, but it was on a very mild whiteblock, still on the stock tune, a set of whites, NA cams, and 2.5" cat back. Just swapping the housing and DP did make a difference, enough that my wife noticed it right off.

Rest of the exhaust...I've done 3" to 3.5" DP on my wagon, NO other changes. Spool was definitely improved, hard to gauge on power level though.
 
gsellstr said:
.... Just swapping the housing and DP did make a difference, enough that my wife noticed it right off.

Rest of the exhaust...I've done 3" to 3.5" DP on my wagon, NO other changes. Spool was definitely improved, hard to gauge on power level though.
Click to expand...

What was the differences in the DP's between the flat and angled?
 
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