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Old 06-17-2014, 03:57 PM   #1
Volvo245Guy
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Default IPD VX Cam Issue

Hi! So I just set out to install my new VX Cam on my 1985 non-turbo 245 Wagon, and I kind of messed up. Here's the rubric I made and used during the install.
[http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5847/...or-non-turbos]
>Camshaft Upgrade Procedure

Part 1
1 - Remove Fan (4 bolts(10mm))
2 - Remove Fan shroud (2 bolts(8mm))
3 - Remove Upper timing belt cover (2 bolts(10mm), 1 bolt(12mm), Phillips screw)
4 - Rotate Engine Crank until the Cam Timing marks align (Crank Bolt is 24mm)
5 - Remove bolt from Cam Sprocket before detensioning
6 - De-tension Tensioner spring, and pin in place with a pin
7 - Slip Belt off of Cam Sprocket (Top Sprocket)

Part 2
1 - Remove Valve Cover and old Valve Cover Gasket
2 - Remove Camshaft and Cam Sprocket
3 - Replace various seals around Camshaft
4 - Install old Cam Sprocket on new Camshaft(VX Cam)
5 - Re-install Camshaft with Engine Assembly Lube
6 - Line up Cam Gear Timing marks
7 - Re-tooth belt onto Cam Sprocket
8 - Re-tension the Tensioner spring
9 - Replace Valve Cover with new Gasket
10 - Test for correct engine operation by starting the engine
11 - If it works, replace the rest of the crap

It was at about part 2, step 10 that I realised I was ****ed. The car started, but the performance was lackluster and indicative of bad timing. I'm confident in my Cam's actual installation, however, I'm not quite sure how to time it now. Before I removed the old cam, I marked the location of the belt on the Cam sprocket with a marker. When I reinstalled the new cam, I simply aligned it the same way as the old cam on the same tooth. I don't know if that's how you're supposed to do it, but now I'm thinking I need to start over.

So my questions are, will finding TDC and aligning the engine like you were changing the timing belt work with this cam? And if so, how can I find TDC without removing the crankshaft pulley? And if I have to remove the Crankshaft pulley, can I do so without using the Volvo 5284 Crankshaft pulley holder tool($70 at ipd!!!)? Thanks Guys!
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:00 PM   #2
Volvo245Guy
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http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/Resou...ng%20belt1.pdf

And this is the instructional I used to write my install rubric
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:20 PM   #3
culberro
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You do not need to remove the pulley. The cover has timing marks on it, that work great for this purpose, they are located on the outside of the lower cover. You can double check TDC by placing a straight piece of wire through the spark plug hole. As you rotate the engine to TDC, the rod will stop moving up. If the pulley is not where near that, then the harmonic damper has slipped.

Now once you're at TDC, you need to align the aux shaft to TDC. There is a mark on the inside cover, align the dimple tooth to that mark. The camshaft pulley is aligned the same way, but with it's own mark at the top of the inner cover.

Now slide your timing belt on, and double check everything. Rotate engine over by hand a few times, and recheck the marks. Adjust if necessary.

You do not usually need a tool to remove the pulley. I have gotten lucky with a breaker bar a few times, but an air wrench always works.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:44 PM   #4
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Is it an automatic?
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:49 PM   #5
Volvo245Guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
You do not usually need a tool to remove the pulley. I have gotten lucky with a breaker bar a few times, but an air wrench always works.
How can I get the engine to stay still? Would putting the car in gear work? Or does that risk damaging the tranny? I also don't have an impact wrench :(
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:55 PM   #6
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If it is an automatic, you can wedge something against the torque converter (I use a crow bar or huge screwdriver) to stop the motor from turning. Its not ideal, and a little bit of a PITA, but it has worked for me several times.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:57 PM   #7
culberro
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Once again, you do not NEED to remove the crankshaft pulley to re-align the timing marks. If the belt is not getting replaced, there is NO NEED TO REMOVE THE CRANK PULLEY.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Once again, you do not NEED to remove the crankshaft pulley to re-align the timing marks. If the belt is not getting replaced, there is NO NEED TO REMOVE THE CRANK PULLEY.
Agreed, just tossed in a suggestion in case the OP ever has to. culberro is right, there are marking on the cover for this.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:06 PM   #9
Volvo245Guy
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Thanks guys! I thought you meant to remove the lower cover as well, but let me adjust this properly and I'll post the results!
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:41 PM   #10
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http://imgur.com/a/29jxj#0

So I've adjusted the Cam Sprocket properly, and I've exposed the timing mark for the balancing shaft, and the Crank is Top Dead Center-ish according to my spark plug hole.

How can I use the marks in pic#4 to find the most accurate TDC? I'm at an absolute loss right now from Google D:
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:53 PM   #11
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Also, I know culberro said that there's a mark on the inside cover for the Balancer shaft like with the Camshaft, but I'm having a bit of trouble seeing it.
http://cdn.2carpros.com/diagrams/489...gif?1288406512
Is it really possible to do this without taking the bottom bits off?
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:11 PM   #12
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You probably just had the slack on the wrong side of the T-belt, causing it to be off a tooth. Try again and get the slack on the tensioner side of the pulleys so they wont move when it takes up the slack. Sometimes you have to turn the cam pulley a little while you're doing it, I also like to use small clips to hold the belt on the pulleys when putting it together.

Edit: The timing in pic 3 is way off. The dot should be at 3:00.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:12 PM   #13
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Also, pics of the old cam vs the new cam before I forget
http://imgur.com/a/HOgsO#0
VX Cam Left
M Cam Right
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoggster View Post
You probably just had the slack on the wrong side of the T-belt, causing it to be off a tooth. Try again and get the slack on the tensioner side of the pulleys so they wont move when it takes up the slack. Sometimes you have to turn the cam pulley a little while you're doing it, I also like to use small clips to hold the belt on the pulleys when putting it together.
Yeah, the timing isn't bad enough to be a no-start, but it's pretty gutless right now.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:16 PM   #15
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I edited my post after you posted pics. In pic #3 your timing is way out. The dot should be at 3:00, like in the diagram you posted.

The aux shaft drives the distributor and controls spark timing.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoggster View Post
I edited my post after you posted pics. In pic #3 your timing is way out. The dot should be at 3:00, like in the diagram you posted.

The aux shaft drives the distributor and controls spark timing.
Alright, sweet. I've got the aux shaft looking more like the picture. Do you know how to use the marks in pic#4 to adjust the crank pulley? Cylinder #1 is at around TDC in the picture, but I can't really tell how the marks and holes relate to each other.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:57 PM   #17
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There are numbered marks on the lower timing cover and a notch on the crank pulley, when the pulley is aligned with the 0 degree mark the engine is at top dead. Sometimes the rubber inside the crank pulley will separate and then the marks won't be accurate anymore.

Or, if you take the pulley off and look at the gear and washers, there is a notch on one of the washers. That lines up with a raised casting mark on the front engine cover. You might be able to shine a light and see what I'm talking about without taking the lower cover off.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:43 PM   #18
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You can see the notches on your crank pulley in your 4th picture, at about 1 o'clock (above '07.12' marking). It looks like that's off a bit too.

Hoggster is referring to this in his first paragraph:


And this in his second paragraph:
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:37 PM   #19
Volvo245Guy
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Alright, update!
So I got the Cam and Crank pretty well aligned, and the aux shaft is 'working'. The car feels very powerful now, but I want it to be at 100%. So I ordered a timing belt kit, and I'm going to do the whole shebang and post the before and after!

Also, don't drive around without your fan-guard. I just tore up my aluminum heater hose thing :(
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:14 PM   #20
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If you want to get the intermediate/auxiliary shaft set properly with the lower timing cover still on(and you really should), take off your distributor cap. With the crank and cam set to TDC, there should be a mark on the distributor body that the rotor points to when it fires number one cyl. The rotor should be aimed pretty close to this mark. You can check this with the timing belt and covers still on. Take off the cap leaving the wires on it so you don't get mixed up, pull the rotor straight off, then take the round dust cover off that was under the rotor. There should be a little slit type mark on the distributor body for number one. I haven't looked at an early dizzy in a while so someone else correct me if I'm wrong.

Last edited by 122ti; 06-17-2014 at 11:33 PM.. Reason: clarification
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:33 PM   #21
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I swapped an M cam for an IPD VX in my N/A 740. I was pretty disappointed on the whole and ended up putting in an adjustable timing gear. My gear has no indicating marks on it (not even a frigging zero reference) so I just advanced it as far as it would go. That increased the bottom end a bit (enough to stop me bitching about it anyway). The VX feels like it is designed for lots of top end but loses lots of bottom in exchange.

I rarely see 4k these days. Maybe I should try a T.
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:50 PM   #22
klr142
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Quote:
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Maybe I should try a T.
Sounds like it, I would. I noticed the same thing, except I went from an M to a T to a VX and now want the T back in...
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