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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Completely understandable. I was set to go and stay MS on the wagon until we cracked into LH and made some big strides. It's really impressive how much you can gain by tuning yourself instead of relying on box tunes.
 
Well, I've made the decision to do a 16 valve. You may have already seen this, but I'm selling my 8v top end set up. Perfect for bolting in a B230 to your 140. Would probably work on a 122 or 1800 with the motor upright.

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For Sale link: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=351424
 
So I started working on tings for the 16 valve. I never liked the stock motor mounts I had on my 8 valve, so I used some 240 torque rods to make mounts that attach to the frame rails. This will be much more solid, and allow for tighter clearance to other things in the engine bay. I'll also be able to drop the subframe without thinking about the engine, which is nice. The driver side one still needs a gusset.

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By the end of the process, I started to figure out my MIG with 3/16 plate. I'm confident all of it will stay together, but the beads didn't start looking decent until the last part I made.

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This is how the engine is sitting with the new mounts. Higher up than my old mounts, and a bit closer to the firewall, I think.

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Obviously the stock heater valve won't work. So if someone needs a NOS, slightly used heater valve, I'm your guy. I may try to do something similar to the bulkhead fitting that STS Machining makes.
 
I just put the stock B234 exhaust manifold on to see if there would be room for a down pipe, and there's no way it'll work on a 140 with the engine so close to the firewall. So now I'm deciding between the Yosihfab 8v manifold adapter, or making a custom manifold. The ease of the adapter route is tempting, but I know it's a compromise, and still doesn't address my external wastegate problem.
 
Not much of an update, but I did get one thing done. On my 8v setup, I had a little 70 amp alternator because it's all I could easily fit at the time. The steering idler arm bracket takes up a lot of space where the alternator wants to be on the passenger side.

With the new engine, I really wanted more amps, so I made a bracket to fit a Volvo 100 amp alternator. The really short belts keep it tucked in far enough to clear the idler bracket.

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I also got the collector that I want to use for the divided manifold. I still don't know if all this twinscroll stuff will fit, but I'll give it a shot.

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I'll also want to port the inlet to the turbine housing so it matches a t4 flange, but that's no big deal.

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I'm still waiting on a stainless head flange from Yoshifab, then I can start mocking this up. The back up plan is sending the 1.00 T4 housing back and getting a .85 v-band housing and making a manifold for that.
 
I have another non-update. The exhaust manifold was on hold while I waited for a stainless head flange. I got sick of waiting and just ordered a mild steel one, so I can start tinkering with that for real soon.

In the meantime, I got a hold of a Ford Sierra intake manifold. I'll need to make a Volvo head flange and have Noah weld that on, but other than that, it looks like it'll work.

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This will roughly be the clearance from the plenum to the 7" brake booster i got. Should be good.

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The TB inlet elbow thing is supposed to go on the bottom of the plenum, but it would interfere with the steering shaft on my car. I'm thinking that I could flip the plenum over and run the TB coming off the top. Might look goofy, but if it clears the hood, I'm ok with it. Flipping the plenum might also make fuel rail fitment a pain, but I'll deal with that later. The other option is to hack up the manifold a bunch and make room for a TB inlet at the front.

I also need to figure out if the stock Ford TB is big enough. The inlet is about 2 1/8", which is way smaller than the 960 TB that we like to use here. I actually didn't like that big TB for drivability on the 8v, so it would be cool to find Ford people making decent peak power on a stock TB.

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