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Old 08-15-2010, 08:53 PM   #1
BoostedSwede
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Default So sick of this. Strut mount problems.

Hi all...

This is on my 1991 740 with Bilstein HDs and IPD lowering springs. Alright, I replaced my DEAD strut mounts with some used original Volvo mounts (rubber was perfect), and brand new SKF brand strut bearings (I've heard they are the best).

Now, I get lots of low-speed clunking noises, and I have lots of binding and creaking noises when turning the steering wheel back and forth at a stop. If I grab the top of the tire while the car is parked and shake it back and forth, I can hear something clunking up in the area of the strut mount.

Any ideas what this could be before I tear the front end apart again? Please tell me the bearings aren't faulty...I don't want to have to return them.
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:56 PM   #2
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Did you forget to install the metal piece that goes between the rubber/spring and the bearing?
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:11 PM   #3
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Did you forget to install the metal piece that goes between the rubber/spring and the bearing?
Umm...
The later 740 strut bearings are bullet proof.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:31 PM   #4
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Check the tightness of the large stamped steel 'nut' that retains the strut cartridge in the tube.
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:38 PM   #5
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Umm...
The later 740 strut bearings are bullet proof.
What...?
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:59 PM   #6
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Check the bearings are not binding when compressed. Jack the car up, turn and see if they bind with no weight on them.
I trimmed the URO bearing as they would bind when compressed.
The bearing were garbage. Then the rubber let go after about 18 months.

I ended up getting new SKF ones from IDP. But these are no longer available.
The parts you are using should have been ok. But you may have not got genuine SKFs bearings. are the bearings orange?

You can remove the strut mount without popping the ball joints etc. lower the strut and swing it out.
http://volvo2.homestead.com/740strut.html

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Old 08-16-2010, 12:16 AM   #7
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The bearings are white and black and say "SKF" on them. No, I did not forget any pieces when putting them back together. I'll check for binding when they are unloaded on Tuesday, when I have the day off from work.
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:01 AM   #8
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I don't know if you were able to solve this or not but I thought I would weigh in about a similar situation on a 93 subaru legacy I had.Bought the car with bad struts so I bought new struts and reused the mounts because the bearings looked good.I installed the fronts and got a similar clonking noise.The strut top hat on a subaru has 3 bolts.I didn't think it had to go in a specific way just as long as it lined up with the holes right?Turns out the strut top hat was supposed to go a certain way because otherwise a tab would bind up on the body when turned then it would pop free causing the clonking sound.did the same thing on low speed bumps.It wouldn't hurt to check if thats were your binding is...
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:25 AM   #9
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Ahh, welcome to my world.

The set I just installed a couple weekends back were brand new KYB mounts with SKF bearings. The bearings were actually all-metal, stamped with SKF and a bearing number. I've run several of the plastic bearing units, never had much life expectancy from them. The rubber hasn't lasted more than about 2 years (last set of SKF boxed mounts got me 2 years, best yet). The KYB's are second.

As for the clunk, honestly, it sounds like the same clunk I was getting when each of my Bilsteins crapped itself. Usually low-mid-speed hits of small to medium severity would get a good, solid clunk or knock from the strut. Haven't had it yet since I installed the koni's 2 years ago though.

I'm working on getting something new prototyped for the Volvo world that should make life, well, better for all of us.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:57 AM   #10
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Time for plates.
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:21 PM   #11
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Time for plates.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:18 PM   #12
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I'm ready for plates for the 244, just don't have the $$$.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:21 PM   #13
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I'm ready for plates for the 244, just don't have the $$$.
What do they cost?

With Volvo strut bearings running about $75+each now, it may be a better option than you think.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:15 PM   #14
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What do they cost?

With Volvo strut bearings running about $75+each now, it may be a better option than you think.
I think the BNE camber plates are around $280.
I've had a set for a few years now and am finally going to have a chance to install them this fall.
although I did have a set of his original plates on the 245 and they were a massive improvement over the stock marshmallows.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:25 PM   #15
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stock marshmallows.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:14 PM   #16
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Alright, I put the front of the car in the air today and looked at it. There is no binding at all when turning the wheels when they are off the ground. As soon as I put the car on the ground, the binding started again. Could these be defective parts? Or are the SKF bearings just junk? Help!!!
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:03 AM   #17
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Could be junk bearings. The SKF's I've got and run in the past have been decent, but they're also metal, not plastic. The last set of plastic ones I had literally fell apart and ground the balls into shavings in just over a year.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:40 AM   #18
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Crap. Anyone know where I can get the metal ones?
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:30 AM   #19
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See if your local Carquest possibly has the KYB's on the shelf. The rubber mounts were slightly different as well where the bearing fits, between the plastic and metal bearings on the set I just swapped.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:35 PM   #20
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Are the KYB really any good? I had serious problems with other "known-to-be-good" aftermarket strut mount brands. I previously had the Febi/Bilstein brand, and I literally tore through the rubber in under 1 year.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:56 PM   #21
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I'm missing something here.
My 740 has the original,"plastic" bearings & rubber from 300K ago on top of the coil overs.
I did re-grease the bearings once, though.
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:08 PM   #22
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Probably don't wanna get rid of em then!

The KYB's are pretty much my second choice to the SKF's thus far for aftermarket. They DO come with cool black plates instead of silver too.....
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:34 PM   #23
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Are SKF's what came stock? If not can you get OEM bearings from the dealer still? I need to change mine but the idea of having to do this every 2 years doesn't sit to well with me.

Are there any threads that show how this is done? Are there any special tools needed?
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:54 PM   #24
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The alignment of the bearing race is very important when installing your upper mounts in a 7/9xx I've done about a dozen of them, I'm not a professional, I just used to get suckered into working on friends Volvos.

If things don't line up in the strut assembly once the weight gets on them then it's going to work like crap, bind up and spit bearings. I've done it, "in car" nearly every time except for the last time I used a strut compressor at Performance West. I could line everything up and slowly increase the pressure to the strut while looking carefully at the bearing race and the track it sits in. (I usually do this with my hand while jacking up the strut rod from underneath while the car's on jack stands - not safe).

I'm not saying you guys are messing things up. I just think it's important to stress how easy it is to not notice how poorly it may be fitting once it's up in the car.

Gary is also right, there are a lot of other front end issues (blown shocks being one of them) that people blame on the upper strut mounts.

I've used 2 sets of SKF uppers in the 10 years that I've owned my car. They are about as good as you can get for stock replacement. People who know me KNOW that I drive the piss out of my car.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:02 PM   #25
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Quote:
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What do they cost?

With Volvo strut bearings running about $75+each now, it may be a better option than you think.
No good. They last forever with soft stockish springs, deteriorate rapidly with anything stiffer.

And I can't get enough camber adjustment out of the stock crap.
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