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Old 01-15-2015, 01:59 PM   #26
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you lost one of these.


(Nevermind the seal that got tapped one too many times and was replaced shortly after this photo was taken)
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:03 PM   #27
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Sorry for the duplicate posts. But that sounds fun. I re-tightened some oil pan bolts last night so I'll see if it continues to leak. There was NO oil on the back of the flywheel so maybe it's not leaking. If anything I wouldn't necessarily have to pull the oil pan completely, I think I could raise the motor a few inches and drop the pan only a few inches as well. They make a 2 or 3 piece oil pan gasket so you don't have to pull the pan IIRC. How hard would one say it is to pull an m47 and do a rear main?

You DO NOT have to do anything with the pan to remove the seal housing, other than removing the pan bolts that actually thread in to the seal housing. It may be a good idea like Steve said to loosen the bolts from mid pan back to the tail end of the pan so the seal housing exerts less pressure on the pan gasket when you pry it off the dowels.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:06 PM   #28
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What would you consider to be the "hardest job" you have done on your 240, or any car for that matter?
This is the first car I've ever worked on.. I've done a timing belt, tensioner, all front seals, oil delivery tube seals (that means I pulled the oil pan....), motor mounts, a relatively successful turbo conversion, all pads and rotors..never had the head off though.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:09 PM   #29
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you lost one of these.


(Nevermind the seal that got tapped one too many times and was replaced shortly after this photo was taken)
So the circular shiny thing would be the end of my crankshaft I assume? The thing that has only 1 bolt in it. What gets bolted to the crankshaft, the flywheel right? That means I wouldn't have lost any bolts that go into the crank shaft (through the flywheel) but I probably lost a bolt that holds the housing into the block.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:09 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
This is the first car I've ever worked on.. I've done a timing belt, tensioner, all front seals, oil delivery tube seals (that means I pulled the oil pan....), motor mounts, a relatively successful turbo conversion, all pads and rotors..never had the head off though.
You haven't had the pleasure of doing the heater blower motor and heater core yet. That job will put a kink in your love affair with 240s. If you ever have to do either, do both at the same time. You don't ever want to have to go back into the same car twice because you were cheap, or didn't think to do both.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:11 PM   #31
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I'll probably deal without heat or air at that point. Anyone know what a shop would charge to do a blower motor and heater core? Just out of curiosity.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
So the circular shiny thing would be the end of my crankshaft I assume? The thing that has only 1 bolt in it. What gets bolted to the crankshaft, the flywheel right? That means I wouldn't have lost any bolts that go into the crank shaft (through the flywheel) but I probably lost a bolt that holds the housing into the block.
To quote your technical term "Circular shiny thing with 1 bolt in it" IS your crankshaft. Those bolts are 1 time use, grade 12.9. Buy some.

You likely lost the small bolts that hold the rear main seal in. (The other smaller bolts in the photo)

You will need to remove trans, then clutch, then flywheel, (lock crankshaft - remember where your flywheel was indexed), and then remove rear main housing, buy new gasket and another 8 dollar rear main seal
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:24 PM   #33
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I'll probably deal without heat or air at that point. Anyone know what a shop would charge to do a blower motor and heater core? Just out of curiosity.
Blower motor, about $800-$1,200 is a typical shop quote. $200+ in parts. It is about a 6-8 hour job if you do it yourself. The guys that have done it about 20+ times can do the job in about 3 hours.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:26 PM   #34
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Well I'm not doing anything yet, it could have been just an alignment dowell pin like redwood said. I'll have look a little more closely. So the rear main seal housing has to be removed to replace the rear main seal? Isn't there there a similar housing on the front of the engine? I never removed that one while doing a front main seal.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:30 PM   #35
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Well I'm not doing anything yet, it could have been just an alignment dowell pin like redwood said. I'll have look a little more closely. So the rear main seal housing has to be removed to replace the rear main seal? Isn't there there a similar housing on the front of the engine? I never removed that one while doing a front main seal.
No - it doesnt have to be removed, BUT I'd spend the 4 bucks on a new rear housing gasket, and the 8 bucks for a rear mainseal, and never worry about them ever again.

"while you're in there...."
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:30 PM   #36
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No, you do not have to remove the seal housing to replace the RMS. It presses in just like the front shaft seals.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:38 PM   #37
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Okay so it's just a good idea while you're in there. In the mean time I tightened the oil pan (again) and cleaned up underneath so I'll check for leaks in a few days. Thank you all for you help/advice.
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:05 PM   #38
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You haven't had the pleasure of doing the heater blower motor and heater core yet. That job will put a kink in your love affair with 240s.

^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:06 PM   #39
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^^^^^^^^^^^
It's not so terrible after you take the entire dashboard out.....
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:12 PM   #40
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No, you do not have to remove the seal housing to replace the RMS. It presses in just like the front shaft seals.
Just as an aside, I've found that timing gears are the perfect diameter to use as a driver for a RMS. Get the seal started, put the gear on it, gently tap in the center of the gear with a deadblow hammer, the seal goes right in.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:26 PM   #41
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I used some fat polished PVC and a pair of longer flywheel bolts to make a press. No big.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:51 PM   #42
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Just as an aside, I've found that timing gears are the perfect diameter to use as a driver for a RMS. Get the seal started, put the gear on it, gently tap in the center of the gear with a deadblow hammer, the seal goes right in.
You mean like a cam/aux gear off an 8v?
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:04 PM   #43
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Yep, or a 16V. PVC pipe would probably work as well, if it's the right diameter. I just happened to have some gears laying around.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:15 PM   #44
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Yep, or a 16V. PVC pipe would probably work as well, if it's the right diameter. I just happened to have some gears laying around.
That's convenient! I'm not pulling the tranny until I need to. I haven't noticed anymore oil accumulating down there, now it's just a cracked heater hose spewing coolant Pretty sure I have to pull the intake manifold to do those hoses, and I just had it off last night!
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:18 PM   #45
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You don't have to take the intake off, but it would make it a be easier to do. Otherwise it's mostly blind fumbling work done by feel underneath it. But it's probably better than spending the time taking the intake off to make it a little easier.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:28 PM   #46
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You don't have to take the intake off, but it would make it a be easier to do. Otherwise it's mostly blind fumbling work done by feel underneath it. But it's probably better than spending the time taking the intake off to make it a little easier.
I don't mind pulling it, took about 30 minutes. I just ordered 2 new hoses and another intake manifold gasket so it'll be coming off soon. The more I take shit apart, the more I learn.

Under the intake I saw the temp sending unit, the ECT, the knock sensor and 1 other plug. Do you know what this one is?
The oily one under my single wire temp sender.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:53 PM   #47
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Crush it
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:53 PM   #48
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Knock sensor
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:05 PM   #49
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That's the knock sensor. Just for fun, Volvo has 2 or 3 of the same plugs on the harness in the same general vicinity. The knock sensor uses a shielded green wire.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:36 PM   #50
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That's the knock sensor. Just for fun, Volvo has 2 or 3 of the same plugs on the harness in the same general vicinity. The knock sensor uses a shielded green wire.
So on the head there's the ect and knock sensor that use the same connector (it appears that they do) then there's the temperature sending unit. I also saw a sensor that was lower on the block that's held in by 2 bolts, what is that?
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