home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-15-2015, 01:22 AM   #1
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default M47 flywheel bolt fell out

About a year ago I had a clutch put in my 93 240 by a close-friends-uncles-friend. The whole job from start to finish cost me about $525. I would have done the job myself but at the time I did not have the confidence to tear out my tranny, nor did I have a machine to resurface the flywheel. After driving the car for awhile this horrible noise appeared to be coming from the bell housing. I was worried but by the time I got home it had disappeared. This happened once or twice. Just tonight I pulled the brace that holds the transmission to the engine and noticed these wear marks. I'm worried that at least one flywheel bolt has come loose and worked its way out. Either that or some other piece of metal did.. How much should I be worried? I've been driving the car for quite awhile with no issues yet.
__________________
Current
-93' 244 m47-iPd sways, 13c, iPd cam, 2.5”
straight pipe
-93' 245 m47-iPd sways, T-cam
Past
-80' 242gt m46-
-88' 245 m47-Welded diff, gutted, 13g

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
spill it MClovin and WTF happens to your glasses you piece of ****..
Feedback Thread

Last edited by PromiseRing; 01-15-2015 at 01:31 AM..
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 01:28 AM   #2
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default



PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 01:50 AM   #3
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

It can't be a flywheel bolt. There is no way it could get past the clutch disc. Maybe, a pressure plate bolt.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:17 AM   #4
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF CA
Default

^

Or a pressure plate locating pin.
__________________
Raise The Lowered


Image hosted by servimg.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi a stock can support?

Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:27 AM   #5
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Yup before reading this I looked closer and saw that it wasn't possible. Thanks! I've never had a transmission out of a car so in between the flywheel and engine is the pressure plate? So it goes rear main seal>pressure plate>flywheel>clutch disk?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:37 AM   #6
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

No, crank shaft end, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing. In that order.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:40 AM   #7
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
No, crank shaft end, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing. In that order.
So if the wear on the flywheel is on the side closest to the engine, that would mean it had to be something inbetween the engine and flywheel?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:41 AM   #8
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

It seems like nothing could go inbetween the flywheel teeth and case surrounding it. I see some bolts inbetween the flywheel and engine but I don't know what they're holding in.
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:45 AM   #9
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

Exactly. I'll tell you what I think did that. One of your rear main seal housing bolts came out. The gap between the flywheel ring gear and the bell housing is so narrow, I don't think anything could get to the opposite side of the flywheel, unless, it bounced through the starter access area. Really doubtful. I think if you look up with a flash light at your seal housing, you may be able to see if one of the bolts is missing.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:00 AM   #10
cosbySweater
Board Member
 
cosbySweater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
Default

I once sheared off all the flywheel bolts at the crank. That was fun
__________________
1979 Volvo 244DL 6.0/4l80e,8.8,Ms3x goldbox ecu and Mircrosquirt tcu, s366 clone.
2005 Honda Civic Hybrid, 5 Speed
1991 Volvo 245, so stock it hurts, and I like it that way
1982 Ford Fairmont Futura, 4.8/th400, 8.8, mircrosquirt, 7665 turbo, Project Cheap Thrills

Quote:
Originally Posted by bricktop420 View Post
Thank you very much everybody... i now feel sufficiently retarded and will go cry in the corner...
cosbySweater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:04 AM   #11
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Exactly. I'll tell you what I think did that. One of your rear main seal housing bolts came out. The gap between the flywheel ring gear and the bell housing is so narrow, I don't think anything could get to the opposite side of the flywheel, unless, it bounced through the starter access area. Really doubtful. I think if you look up with a flash light at your seal housing, you may be able to see if one of the bolts is missing.
I couldn't for the life of me describe that lol. Thank you, that was a good description. When I had them do the clutch I didn't have them do a rear main seal (that was very stupid of me) so I'm not sure how one of those became loose. The rear main seal housing bolts would only be removed if one was doing a RMS, right? This would explain the leaking..
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:05 AM   #12
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
I once sheared off all the flywheel bolts at the crank. That was fun
Too much torque, bro.
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:13 AM   #13
cosbySweater
Board Member
 
cosbySweater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
Default

Po not tightening down the flywheel. 400k+ b21f that dynoed 52whp
cosbySweater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:15 AM   #14
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
Po not tightening down the flywheel. 400k+ b21f that dynoed 52whp
Typo? Lol that's crazy.
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 03:56 AM   #15
cosbySweater
Board Member
 
cosbySweater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
Default

No typo. Lol
cosbySweater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:00 AM   #16
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

That's insane. Probably low compression on all cylinders?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:18 AM   #17
cosbySweater
Board Member
 
cosbySweater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
Default

Good compression. Just really really tired. Bores are in good shape. Car was however on lh1.0 at the time
cosbySweater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:24 AM   #18
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
Good compression. Just really really tired. Bores are in good shape. Car was however on lh1.0 at the time
It was just craving a turbo.
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:25 AM   #19
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

So there's the rear main seal that you just pull out and replace like other seals and then is there a seal around the housing itself as well?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:47 AM   #20
cosbySweater
Board Member
 
cosbySweater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
Default

The rear main seal housing has a paper type gasket that goes between it and the block. The paper gasket however is a tad longer at the base then the housing is. So if you are going to replace that. Remove the housing from the car and lay the gasket on it and trim it accordingly and use rtv at the base of it. I do not recomend replacing these with the oil pan on however. Alot of times you run the risk of compromising the oil pan gasket and that is not to fun to do in the car. If the seal retainer isnt leaking dont mess with it. To remove the rear main seal i drill 2 small holes in the rear main, thread in 2 self tapping screws that are about 1 inch long. Then use heal bars to remove it. When installing the rear main seal i pack the back of the seal with dielectric grease to avoid having the the metal spring fall out.
cosbySweater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 04:49 AM   #21
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

There is a gasket that goes between the seal housing and the block. The rear main seal is just like the front crank seal, only, much larger in diameter. It presses into the housing just like all 3 front shaft seals. If you had a bolt come out of the seal housing, there are likely more of those bolts that are loose. It would definitely cause a substantial oil leak.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 05:07 AM   #22
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Now that I think about it, the oil leaks started after my switch to synthetic. Nothing up from but the oil pan gasket and possibly rear main/rear main housing are leaking. Pulling the oil pan and replacing it was the hardest thing I've done on a car. Is it safe to say that it would be easier to remove my m47 and do a rear main than to pull the oil pan?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 11:50 AM   #23
SteveMD
M54B30
 
SteveMD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: West of I-270
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Now that I think about it, the oil leaks started after my switch to synthetic. Nothing up from but the oil pan gasket and possibly rear main/rear main housing are leaking. Pulling the oil pan and replacing it was the hardest thing I've done on a car. Is it safe to say that it would be easier to remove my m47 and do a rear main than to pull the oil pan?
If one of the rear main seal housing bolts fell out like 2manyturbos thinks, then you may want to pull that M47, the clutch, and flywheel to replace the seal and missing bolt. It depends on what you find when you get in there but you may also want to pull the seal housing.

I have pulled the rear main seal housing without dropping the oil pan. I loosened the pan bolts from mid-block rearwards, removed those that thread into the seal housing, carefully worked a putty knife between the pan gasket and the bottom of the seal housing to separate them, then removed the seal housing. After I reinstalled the housing, I smeared RTV on the putty knife and worked it in between the gasket and seal housing. That worked fine for me.
SteveMD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 01:14 PM   #24
PromiseRing
We don't even like Volvos
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Default

Sorry for the duplicate posts. But that sounds fun. I re-tightened some oil pan bolts last night so I'll see if it continues to leak. There was NO oil on the back of the flywheel so maybe it's not leaking. If anything I wouldn't necessarily have to pull the oil pan completely, I think I could raise the motor a few inches and drop the pan only a few inches as well. They make a 2 or 3 piece oil pan gasket so you don't have to pull the pan IIRC. How hard would one say it is to pull an m47 and do a rear main?
PromiseRing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 01:49 PM   #25
mtd240
Bored Member
 
mtd240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Brookeville, MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
How hard would one say it is to pull an m47 and do a rear main?
What would you consider to be the "hardest job" you have done on your 240, or any car for that matter?
__________________
1990 245DL M47 LH3.1 - 344,000 Miles
1989 244DL AW71 LH2.4 - Sold
1998 V70XC - Sold
mtd240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:55 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.