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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

Small update, I installed a bluetooth module from evilbay in my MS box, works great, wireless connects right up to my laptop or the fire tablet that I have been running "Realdash" app on to monitor inputs.

21st century bricking.
 
I grabbed one as well a while back, never got a chance to use it. I figured I'd play with it on my older Fire as well, good to know it works! I may reconfigure mine for the MS1 box in the 140...
 
Here's a vid, I am a child and elected for the racecar dash, but this app has a ton of options and can control a bunch of different things if you'd like it to.

I bent a piece of aluminum and slipped it over the stock cluster. One of my issues is that you can't charge it where it is currently, so I will have to come up with a solution for that.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VlEisu-n9gQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I grabbed one as well a while back, never got a chance to use it. I figured I'd play with it on my older Fire as well, good to know it works! I may reconfigure mine for the MS1 box in the 140...

It's pretty cool and relatively easy to get running!

Dang, that's pretty sweet. You're kinda making me want to ditch LH.

Honestly, my car may not be faster than a proper running LH car, but it is fun to mess around with, and the information available to me now is really cool!
 
The ease of tuning and the full dataset is very helpful indeed. LH when tuned right is damn fun and reliable as well, so it's kind of a tossup. I'd go MS right now except I'm making very solid progress on LH. lol
 
I threw a pipe in for the intake side, and am officially rid of the LH24 stuff (was usiing the MAF as an air filter adapter)

Plan to pull all the pipes, valve cover, and radiator slam panel and coat it all in black semi gloss paint at my shop.

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The car starts right up, cold starts are pretty good now, I have been working on the Accel enrich settings, and the overrun fuel cut. Next is to try my hand at closed loop in preparation for the summer when I'm blasting A/C.
 
Sorry, been meaning to get up your way, just ain't happening. Overrun is cake, settings that were in there were pretty decent. AE isn't too bad as long as you have a good base map. Closed loop, again not too bad as long as you have a good base map and good AFR map.
 
Sorry, been meaning to get up your way, just ain't happening. Overrun is cake, settings that were in there were pretty decent. AE isn't too bad as long as you have a good base map. Closed loop, again not too bad as long as you have a good base map and good AFR map.

No worries, We will get together soon.

I am still using your overrun fuel cut settings for the most part, I did try and get closed loop working, but was having issue with a lean 15.5 afr idle, and it doesn't really like that. Turns out I found a vacuum leak and that was most likely the culprit, So I will try again.

Vacuum leaks are really apparent in idle tuning with MS I am finding. Maybe my settings are just on the verge.... But that's part of the fun RIGHT?!?
 
No worries, We will get together soon.

I am still using your overrun fuel cut settings for the most part, I did try and get closed loop working, but was having issue with a lean 15.5 afr idle, and it doesn't really like that. Turns out I found a vacuum leak and that was most likely the culprit, So I will try again.

Vacuum leaks are really apparent in idle tuning with MS I am finding. Maybe my settings are just on the verge.... But that's part of the fun RIGHT?!?

A vacuum leak between the manifold and head? Just wondering out loud how a MAP sensor system is affected by vacuum leaks.
 
So clean.
Thanks a ton! Small wheel bois!

A vacuum leak between the manifold and head? Just wondering out loud how a MAP sensor system is affected by vacuum leaks.

This was just a vacuum hose for the evap system before the throttle plate, but it idled leaner than normal, very similar to LH when there is a vacuum leak in the system. I suppose the issue could be different per install, based on how your throttle plate is adjusted and how much PWM you are using for your IAC? Now that you mention it, It made sense until I started really thinking about it :rofl:
 
A buddy of mine drew this up, and I turned it into a decal.

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I took the car to Radwood Sonoma, it rained, I don't have many pics of that. I am moving forward with some plans, and amassing parts to do new pads and rotors, as well as new carrier bearings and setup for my noisy rear diff.

Oh, I also picked up a lightened flat flywheel and RSI poly mounts from a buddy who has had them on a shelf for several years now. I will probably do all of that at the same time. While I am doing the flywheel, I will put a new TO bearing and pilot just because, and work on the shim stack under my pivot ball to hopefully get a little better clutch feel.

My list of gripes about the car is growing, and it's not really the fun or glamorous stuff, but necessary none the less.

A/C is still busted too :/

Here is a pic dump:

Messy a$$ workbench
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A guy came by at Radwood and snapped these shots
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Pretty much the only photo I took of my car at Radwood

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I put a new shift knob on the T5, the extension is really nice, and allows me to shift with the grandpa series armrest down!

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Pretty much it for now, Davis "prep" is continuing, and I really want to take it to a dragstrip sometime in the future to see what she's made of....
 
I want to copy your shifter setup.

Also willing to pop that dent for ya, not sure I want to risk making it worse though :-P
 
Dang, I didn't realize you were at Sonoma! I meant to make it over to Radwood but it was so far over on the other side of the track and I couldn't bring pit vehicles this time :-(

Car looks great though!
 
stop by Mass let's push your fender out.

I've had a couple dentless people take a look at it and the issues is the arch of the body line won't really be the same, At some point I would like to secure another straight fender and repaint the car

I want to copy your shifter setup.

Amazon shift knob, ebay boot, easy peasy, I used the hurst shift lever that I cut and added about an inch to previously, I will probably take that out now.

Dang, I didn't realize you were at Sonoma! I meant to make it over to Radwood but it was so far over on the other side of the track and I couldn't bring pit vehicles this time :-(

Car looks great though!

Thanks! I enjoyed watching the race from turn 7! I had never seen the track like that before, great views!

Is that how you know you have made it, have a decal made of your car! Very cool!

It helps that the sign shop I manage makes stickers ;-)

Speaking of, I whipped up this "showcard" for Radwood, I printed it on vehicle wrap, and applied it to a piece of .063" aluminum, so it was weather proof and hung out in the rain the whole day.

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Agreed, I am not allergic to anything, so Meyle it is.

Without more info, I would assume the Meyle's are just fine. Maybe he's offering Volvo ones for certain picky people who are allergic to aftermarket bushings? That's my guess. I'm pretty sure he would not offer substandard bushings on such a nice product.

Definitely on my shopping list. I see they're offered with the Meyle bushings or the Volvo bushings for $80 more :omg:. Of course Genuine Volvo bushings would be more, but could they we worth $80 more for two? Curious is anyone is actually opting for the more expensive bushings.
Dave

We have had really good results with the Meyle bushings, they have held up well in the LS-powered drift car that we tested the prototypes with.

Only reason the upcharge is so much is the price of the Volvo bushings now a days.

The meyle units are practically free when you buy enough of them and the volvo units cost ~40 each

We mostly sell Meyle but some people do opt for Volvo brand bushings.

For most people who are on the fence, I always recommend to start with Meyle and if it doesn't hold up, replace them with a Volvo bushing.
 
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