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project blue is better

What color for my Titan wheels?

  • Flat black

    Votes: 7 58.3%

  • Silver

    Votes: 4 33.3%

  • White

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • Total voters
    12
  • Poll closed .
Congrats, big Job done. Head looks nice!
T-cam ?? Your coming full circle, next: A-CAM, then V-cam -- we will see.
Spark plugs too cold in my books for that set-up -- wr5 dc+ would be advisable --
Head: gr:A holes?
extra Oil cooler??
 
Thanks! It was a nice job to do...all the gaskets are new now (block + head), even with the late arrival of my parts...
(31/12/2014)!

Yes, T-cam! The problem was : the RSI Stage 2 cam have the lobe base circle 0.5mm smaller then stock. The shims needed to set the valve gap correctly are 4.55/4.45 and I don't have it in my stock, + they're not available here...

And the onliest cam I've here is the T-cam... So it's back in the engine! And I'm not disappointed about how it's running like that!!!

The WR5DC+ are colder as the WR7DC+ (stock heat range), so I'll try it for a while now, and maybe install a set of WR6DC+ later.

No more Group A holes, the head is not so modded as my previous head :
-0.5mm shaved
-a tad ported (only intake side)
-valve hand lapped
-rounded edge in the CC

Ab out extra oil cooler, I don't think it'll be needed soon, but I'll see how my engine behave in hotter ambient air...
 
Hi Alex
@ spark plugs: W7 equalizes the old w175, W6 = W195, w5 = 225. --
@ T-cam isnt such a terrible cam, -- bit boring though.
@ extra oil cooler: consider the following -- the piston cooling increases the oil temperature significantly in the sump, particularly high refs and full throttle. I measured sump temperatures of 130 - 150 degrees in those engines without any modifications. ( temperatures were lower on the earlier engines without piston cooling). Before installing the 25 row air-oilcooler, I had permanent issues with gaskets, inlet: twice a year, exhaust once a year, water pump once a year, - distributor twice a year. Even Castrol GTX full synthetic oil 5/40 was burnt at less than 10k km. Even my 531 head developped hair cracks between the valve seats and at the spark plugs. -- that's going to the scraps. With the oil cooler and the thermostatic sandwich plate the oil temp never raises above 90 degrees going back into the engine.
20638388wu.jpg
 
Too cold oil isn't that good for an engine...but too hot also ;-)

I'll drive my car as it is now for a while and I'll see how it's perform like that...

About T cam, it's for sure not a race cam, but what I like now is how my engine reacts from idle 'till 5K!
 
thats the reason for the thermostat in the sandwich plate, -- it only opens once 85 degrees temperature is reached.
 
I used to have the oil temp issue with the original oil-water cooler.
that got that hot, that the seal between the cooler and the manifold melted and leaked.
 
that was the time when I visited you, -- the issue just started and got much worse by the time I arrived back in Ireland.
 
My stock oil cooler got damaged from a destroyed fan blade so I removed it and ran the feed pipes into each other.
All this talk of HOT oil makes me want to fit a bigger on, but in the same location : standing vertical (is that sideways?) between the radiator and the battery, front left.
Recommendations?
 
So, small update :

I'm using since 1 month the Hi-Tuning chips Stage 2 in my car...and WOW! They really wake up my engine!

That's a huge improvement over all the chips I've tried!

My car is really fun to drive now and is a perfect DD!
 
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