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Old 01-08-2017, 08:03 AM   #1
chris gilmour
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Default Panhard bar angle

Can any of you fine lads with a protractor mind crawling under their 240 and just seeing what the actual angle of the bend on the bar is?

Yesterday I snapped my factory bar clean in half at the kink. I'm a machinist so I'm gonna build a better stronger one. Since mine is snapped in two, I have no guide to go by. I know it just needs to clear the diff, and gas tank. But it would be handy to just have a proper number to bend to.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:02 AM   #2
smashed 54
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hey Chris. I have that sedan in the shop pulling the motor, would the panhard on it fit your wagon? All my wagons are feet deep in snow this morning lol
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:29 AM   #3
chris gilmour
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hey Chris. I have that sedan in the shop pulling the motor, would the panhard on it fit your wagon? All my wagons are feet deep in snow this morning lol
It would fit! But I'm gonna use some 1" diameter stainless and use Heim joints on the end. I just need to know the angle so I can bend the material
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:17 AM   #4
M.H. Yount
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I think he's just asking if the Panhard is the same for wagons and sedans --- that way he can measure the sedan version as the wagon version is inaccessible. They're both the same.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:20 AM   #5
smashed 54
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I think he's just asking if the Panhard is the same for wagons and sedans --- that way he can measure the sedan version as the wagon version is inaccessible. They're both the same.
right! same angle? same panhard?
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:37 AM   #6
chris gilmour
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Yes should be the same as far as I know! It's just to clear the diff cover I assume
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:12 PM   #7
smashed 54
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5.5 degrees, easy to measure with the gas tank out... : ) cleaned it off, places a welding magnet on level, placed card-board straight edge on opposite side of bend, traced line from magnet, checked angle with carpenter/rafter gauge. checked twice. it's in good shape if you need it
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:02 PM   #8
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right! same angle? same panhard?
I looked at IPD's site and they sell one adjustable panhard rod for the 200 series cars. It's on sale by the way.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:06 PM   #9
chris gilmour
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smashed 54 View Post
5.5 degrees, easy to measure with the gas tank out... : ) cleaned it off, places a welding magnet on level, placed card-board straight edge on opposite side of bend, traced line from magnet, checked angle with carpenter/rafter gauge. checked twice. it's in good shape if you need it
Thanks man, I'll post the final product in this thread when I'm done. Just gotta wait for the Teflon lined Heim joints to come in at Nova automotive.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:40 AM   #10
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1 inch is small if remember correctly ipd's is at least 1.25. What thickness tube are you using?
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:27 PM   #11
283SD
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The best angle should be level to the ground with the car at ride height.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris gilmour View Post
It would fit! But I'm gonna use some 1" diameter stainless and use Heim joints on the end. I just need to know the angle so I can bend the material
That's going to be pretty marginal if your using 304SS. 316SS would be better from a strength stand point. I'd go up a to 1.25in to increase the stiffness of the panhard bar.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:53 PM   #13
283SD
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Chrome/moly light and strong, can you tig? Heim joint will put noise/vibration in the car.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:36 PM   #14
chris gilmour
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I'm not using tube guys. I ended up using 7/8" solid 316 stainless rod. Drilled and tapped the ends for 5/8-18. Put it in the press and put a 5.5* bend in it. Off set to one side as the orginal is.

Just waiting on my Heim joints to come in tomorrow, then I can machine some reducer spacers. I'm not worried about vibrations. The car has solid torque rods with heims, and has a fixed back fiber glass race seat. It's not the regular grandpa mobile 245.

Here's the bar. Will post final pics with the joints and spacers hopefully by the end of the week.

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Old 01-11-2017, 08:58 PM   #15
culberro
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That's one heavy noodle you got there!
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:13 PM   #16
chris gilmour
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Quote:
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That's one heavy noodle you got there!
if ya break it build it stronger ;)

i beat the living **** out of my wagon. Its winter here, and the moment the roads have any snow on them, I'm out drifting every corner possible. every now and then you'll grab a salted payment patch and she'll grab hard. probably how the old one snapped lol. plus now it gave me an excuse to build one with adjustability. my passenger side fender used to hack the hell out of my rear tire all the time.
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:07 AM   #17
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You can start thinking about reinforcing the panhard bar mount on the chassis, especially if its rusty. Also check the mount on the axle.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:37 PM   #18
283SD
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The lower the point on the axle the better the roll center will be, but you will still need to keep the bar level, so you might have to change the mounting points, to get that. One of the race cars that I built, the mount was under the diff housing, got us a 1 second better lap time at Lime Rock.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:29 PM   #19
chris gilmour
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not too worried about the mounting locations. they worked fine before, and they are in good shape too.

sadly, the parts store got the wrong ends in today. should have the proper ones next week. then i can finally make the spacers/reducers and put it in
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:10 PM   #20
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finished product. just need to put it in next when the temps get higher then -10


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Old 01-17-2017, 12:49 PM   #21
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Looks good.
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