^ The OE battery hold down is very simple. Just a long bar with an "eye lit" hole at the top and some threads at the bottom. A small plate goes over the edge of the battery near the tray and the bolt goes through the plate and into a captive nut on the tray.
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Brand new '81 262C Bertone Coupe . . .
- Thread starter TestPoint
- Start date
Remote fob controlled door and trunk lock/unlock
I converted the utter Volvo to remote lock/unlock capability some time ago based on volvogeek's Articles Composition (http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224742) adding an aftermarket remote control of the lock/unlock function. Bought two units for about $12 each knowing this was coming at some time. Because of the disassembly of the center console to make access to the carpet forming/installation I had the face of the center control panel off. Time to put the little control unit in.
I would note that my '81 Bertone came with a lock motor in the driver door as well as wire harness back to the operating relays. I guess that was a luxury upgrade to make both doors operate in the same manner unlike the GL '82 wagon which did not have the driver door motor. That made this easy. Continuous power from fuse #9 power, ground, lock/unlock wires to relays and connection to the 'flasher' switch 2 inches away from the relays. In addition, the control unit provided a trunk unlock feature which was a single wire over to the glove box trunk switch.
Back to the carpet tomorrow.
I converted the utter Volvo to remote lock/unlock capability some time ago based on volvogeek's Articles Composition (http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224742) adding an aftermarket remote control of the lock/unlock function. Bought two units for about $12 each knowing this was coming at some time. Because of the disassembly of the center console to make access to the carpet forming/installation I had the face of the center control panel off. Time to put the little control unit in.
I would note that my '81 Bertone came with a lock motor in the driver door as well as wire harness back to the operating relays. I guess that was a luxury upgrade to make both doors operate in the same manner unlike the GL '82 wagon which did not have the driver door motor. That made this easy. Continuous power from fuse #9 power, ground, lock/unlock wires to relays and connection to the 'flasher' switch 2 inches away from the relays. In addition, the control unit provided a trunk unlock feature which was a single wire over to the glove box trunk switch.
Back to the carpet tomorrow.
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John242Ti
LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Duvall, WA
Tom,
Main reason why they did that was due to the length of the doors. 242 Turbos with power windows also have that setup. As does the rare 1981 242GL.
If you get the power window and door lock switch bezel from a 1984.5 242 Turbo, you can use the lighted window switches from a 940 or 960. The bezel is available new from Volvo. The door lock switch, however, is going to be a wrecking yard or TB member parts stash find. Here's the result, shown in my 242...
-J
Main reason why they did that was due to the length of the doors. 242 Turbos with power windows also have that setup. As does the rare 1981 242GL.
If you get the power window and door lock switch bezel from a 1984.5 242 Turbo, you can use the lighted window switches from a 940 or 960. The bezel is available new from Volvo. The door lock switch, however, is going to be a wrecking yard or TB member parts stash find. Here's the result, shown in my 242...
-J
Yeah, I am going to be there but the Bertone probably will not. Last year was the heart surgery this year is arthritis which has slowed me down to the point that climbing around a car isn't as much fun as it used to be.
Getting old is quite a challenge.
Getting old is quite a challenge.
M.H. Yount
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Look forward to visiting with you Tom, regardless of what motorvation gets you there!
Yes, I know, it has been months with nothing done. Heart surgery, arthritis, other issues of growing older. Already registered for the Eurofest in Greenville in October.
Just piddling but found and installed LED Daylight Driving lights. They are really invisible under the headlight surrounds when off and really bright when on. Wired from the ignition switch power to the coil resistors so they will be on any time the ignition switch is in the run position.
Now I have to find the rectangular headlight bulbs in 6500k LED brightness.
Just piddling but found and installed LED Daylight Driving lights. They are really invisible under the headlight surrounds when off and really bright when on. Wired from the ignition switch power to the coil resistors so they will be on any time the ignition switch is in the run position.
Now I have to find the rectangular headlight bulbs in 6500k LED brightness.
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Engine . . .?
I am focusing on all the details of body and interior.
I drove it to and from the paint shop. When I get everything else done I will get back to the engine. I did everything I could on the engine and it does run.
Still on jack stands as it has been for the past 2 years.
I am focusing on all the details of body and interior.
I drove it to and from the paint shop. When I get everything else done I will get back to the engine. I did everything I could on the engine and it does run.
Still on jack stands as it has been for the past 2 years.
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
Our Bertone has yet to reach the needed "jack stand" phase. Again
It will.Glad to see you in the shop again!
Dear Diary . . .
Today I put the main body to engine wiring harness back into OEM plastic wiring harness destroyed in the fire. FIRE, you ask . . . way back some of the original 20 year old gas leaked into the slump between the heads and ignited with a start attempt. Burned sorta like motor oil, not even diesel. Shoulda been a clue.
The wiring had been replaced a couple years ago and everything worked but just not been neatened up into the big OEM harness duct. Thanks to Dave Barton's never ending supply of things not found anywhere else I had the right stuff.
Today I put the main body to engine wiring harness back into OEM plastic wiring harness destroyed in the fire. FIRE, you ask . . . way back some of the original 20 year old gas leaked into the slump between the heads and ignited with a start attempt. Burned sorta like motor oil, not even diesel. Shoulda been a clue.
The wiring had been replaced a couple years ago and everything worked but just not been neatened up into the big OEM harness duct. Thanks to Dave Barton's never ending supply of things not found anywhere else I had the right stuff.
No pictures today but I got the center console connected back up with new LED lights in all the bulb holders. For $0.50 more Volvo could have added an additional 6" of wire to all the connections and made it easier to assemble originally and today.
Guess I have to pull the instrument panel to replace all those bulbs also. I love the LED lights but will save the bulbs just in case the Pebble Beach judges want it really Edison original.
Guess I have to pull the instrument panel to replace all those bulbs also. I love the LED lights but will save the bulbs just in case the Pebble Beach judges want it really Edison original.