• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

'69 144S: B20 performance bolt-ons?

Depends on what you want to do with the car. An intricately carved redwood stump would be incredibly interesting, perhaps even a work of art.

But if you just want it to be stoopid fast and be able to buy parts for it in any small town on a moment's notice right off the shelf, and not cost all that much (for the HP made), and have HUUUUGE amounts of performance parts to choose from, from cheaper than dirt eBay all the way up to $$,$$$ uberbling, then thats why LS motors have become 'rubber stamp'. Because it's a really great swap.
 
The bellhousing bolt pattern is the same between OHC and OHV (pushrod) motors. The OHC bellhousings are what rotate the OHC engine over. So an OHC engine will bolt up to the M41 bellhousing in an upright manner. You'd need to make custom motor mounts and swap the oil pan/oil pump pickup, maybe the oil pump? Not sure.

I keep having random thoughts about putting the 16V turbo motor I pulled out of my 245 into my PV. That would be a hoot.
 
It would be a clearer answer on a new transmission. They have a specified (and conservative) torque rating. But as they wear, the bearings develop some play, the gear teeth develop some wear, that goes down. So the answer on a 50-year-old transmission is... probably not? The late-model M41 in my old car has survived a lot of use behind a roughly 165 - 170 hp B20 and shows no signs of fatigue.

But who knows? Like all that family of transmission, third gear is the weakest just because of the design. And the OD can slip under power if it's not in great shape.
 
R32RennSport said:
I think the OP is just trolling us all. On the bright side it's keeping everyone busy brainstorming the next bad decision :lol:
Click to expand...

I mean, not purposely. I'm seeing some good ideas, but the second I pursue them I figure out it's going to be as much work as the last.

I should also point out that my $3,000 budget is
a) in CDN (so probably like $0.45 USD)
and b) for the WHOLE car.

I have most of the parts I need to put this back on the road, but there's always hidden expenses (ie; putting tyres on the 9 rims that came with the car (4 volvo steelies and 5 volvo turbine rims)).

I'm just going to go with the simple stuff that JohnMc suggested - "just use your Solex 40's, use a D cam, find an E or F head and have exhaust seats put in (if it doesn't have it), and put a 2.5" exhaust on it after the downpipe merge."

I'll worry about any big performance upgrades later.
Thanks for all your input, everyone.
 
Sadly " big performance upgrades" and 140s don't go well together on a budget, perhaps we could interest you / recommend a 2-7-9 starting point instead?
 


This took me the better part of 2 years and my "budget" by the time the car was running was nearly triple what I allocated and I didn't even touch exterior bodywork/paint. I also literally did everything myself, the only thing I paid someone else to do was machine work. The kind of budget you're working with will get what you have running, driving and stopping like a stock car especially if you are going to pay anyone else to give you a hand. Just trying to level with you and be realistic, don't want to be the downer but I just went through this tunnel and emerged to tell the story.

I'd be lucky to be putting down 140hp to the wheels and this is a B20 bored out to 2130CC with a mild cam and compression and x2 Weber 45 DCOEs.
 
I dont keep track of my budget anymore... so far my turbo B18/20 project has gone through 2 engine blocks, 2 heads, 3 exhaust manifolds, 2 intercoolers, 3 radiators, 3 head gaskets, 4 sets of injectors, 3 clutches, 2 rear axles, 3 driveshafts, 2 soon to be 3 transmissions... the only thing left from the original build are the specs of the engine and the main pcb of my megasquirt box....
 
7306350002_large.jpg
 
If it's a personal project car, don't try to stick to a budget because it will never work. The car will never get done. Spend as much as you need when you need to. Get help if necessary on things you can't do yourself. Try to learn as many skills as possible to help in building your car. Don't overthink the project or nothing will ever get done it. Just start working on car. Many people buy cars with grand plans but rarely do they follow through.
 
Start realistically, and get the car driving. And incrementally add things to it. There's a small chance of doing things twice (like spending time and money setting up your 40's only to switch to something later). But there's far less chance of ending up with a forever project with lofty goals that sits on jackstands for a decade before you sell it for pennies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top