1990 B230FT upgrades to 200-300HP DD - advice needed

Hello gents,

I'm a noob from Slovakia (EU) and I've had my 89 740 for 3 years so far. It's B230F and now I got '90 FT engine with with all the electric stuff around for swap.

I am looking for some advice / guide from you nice people who got the knowledge. I would like to upgrade some parts that would get me a little further with the power. I was trying to get some help from KL-racing.se, but the communication with them is a little bit difficult.


So everything is stock, my car was set to stage 0 now - changed all the bushings (many poly), shocks, brakes, IPD swaybars, springs, tires, fluids etc.

1. Now I need to upgrade the engine. If I'm gonna use the stock turbo, then it has to be rebuilt (~300eur). Should I do it or forget about it and find a 19T (or something else)? If yes, what else do I need?

2. I would like to upgrade injectors for modern ones like EV6 or EV14 for better spray pattern and smoother idle. Would those be fine or am I totally wrong?
https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/bosch-550cc-spridare-117.html

3. Intercooler - https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-940-utan-ac-60mm.html

4. Cam - they said maybe the T2 https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-8v-turbo-kamaxel-klr-t2-2.html
I have the VX cam brand new from IPD - intentionally for the N/A engine, but never used it. Is it useless for this use?

5. Chip - https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-940-turbo-3.html

6. Exhaust will be custom made

7. Maybe a wideband sond https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/mtxl_plus.php

8. Magnaflow CAT


So my questions are - what do you think about those upgrades? What am I missing? What else should I buy? I would be really grateful for a thorough explanation.
I know that I can get pretty much 180hp with manual boost control, but I want more. Still need to be able to daily drive it, I really don't need all the power in the highest RPM range.
I just want a little bit more power, it's not for drifting or racing.
Need it to be reliable. Using 98/99/100 octane fuel, because our regular 95oct is E10 ffs.

Thank you so much for your time.

This is the donor car photo.

Redblockpowered on here dyno'd his bone stock 1993 940 w/B230FT and got 184 wheel hp at 13psi, with a proper LH2.4 tune. With the M90 that's in the car, that's about 220 crank hp. Stock Mitsu 13C, injectors, exhaust, intercooler, everything. After that, he installed a V15T camshaft from ENEM added about 1000 useable rpm, it's difficult to say how much more power was added, but it definitely did.

My point here is that about 240hp at the engine is RIDICULOUSLY easy and still retains ALL the factory reliability, and that's about a 50% increase in power. That, and it's not a ton of money and can be done in a couple of hours.

Beyond that, yes, you're probably looking at the other components you mentioned.

A lot of the choices you need to make will depend on how you want the car to drive, for example is it a daily driver or a weekend toy, do you prefer low down torque with no turbo lag or top end power with sledgehammer boost.

Obviously budget will also dictate how far you can get and how fussy you are about buying genuine parts, eBay can build it in the cheap but there’s no guarantee it will last.

As Shoestring said, it’s easy enough to get there will basic mods and a moderate budget.

Maybe a better crankcase ventilation system or renew the stock? Replace seals and gaskets if you can before you drop it it?

When I put a bigger turbo on it, my tired engine started leaking oil everywhere. 200 RWHP dyno'd.

Hello neighbour!

First off, I have a 97 945 that I did some light mods to and it's my daily driver that I am very satisfied with.

I have a 16T turbo, KL Racing Intercooler, chips from "redblockpowered" on here and some non-performance mods like IPD sway bars (also bought from here )

I did not do a dyno run with my car, but my butt dyno says I probably have around 190-200whp with my setup. It's plenty of power for me to do overtaking and some spirited driving on our twisty roads. Very fun!


To answer your questions:

cihla said:

1. Now I need to upgrade the engine. If I'm gonna use the stock turbo, then it has to be rebuilt (~300eur). Should I do it or forget about it and find a 19T (or something else)? If yes, what else do I need?

Click to expand...

A 16T is usually considered a very nice upgrade for daily driving and I am more than happy with mine.
A 19T might be a bit too laggy for daily driving but I have no first hand experience so take that with a pinch of salt.

Just a comment on sourcing stuff from the US since you're a neighbour to me
I wasn't able to find a decent used 16T turbo anywhere around here in Austria or Germany etc., so in the end I bought mine from here from member "swedishiron.com" for a great price (incl. shipping) that was cheaper than anything I could've gotten here.
Buying stuff here and getting it shipped over to Europe can be a surprisingly good deal most of the time since going market prices are usually considerably cheaper in the US than in Europe.

cihla said:

2. I would like to upgrade injectors for modern ones like EV6 or EV14 for better spray pattern and smoother idle. Would those be fine or am I totally wrong?
https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/bosch-550cc-spridare-117.html

Click to expand...

Those injectors would be much to large for a 16T (or even a 19T I guess).
Common injectors are the ones from a later FWD car like an 850R or a V70, like the white 0-280-155-766 (I have them now) or green 0-280-155-968.
They fit in the existing fuel rail and have the same connector but a 4-hole spray pattern.
Remember you need to bypass the resistor pack when using those since they are high impedance while the stock ones are low-z, or else you will likely kill your ECU.

Also keep in mind the stock 0-280-150-804 turbo injectors are about 337cc and they delivered plenty of fuel in my setup with the 16T at 0,85bar.
Helpful table to choose some injectors: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

cihla said:

3. Intercooler - https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-940-utan-ac-60mm.html

Click to expand...

I am very happy with that Intercooler and believe it or not, it made a much bigger improvement in throttle response and torque / power delivery than the turbo upgrade.
I made a thread about my experience with it here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343520
Just keep in mind there are different versions for AC (middle outlets) and non-AC (top outlets) - the one you linked is for non-AC and is the one I have.

cihla said:

4. Cam - they said maybe the T2 https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-8v-turbo-kamaxel-klr-t2-2.html
I have the VX cam brand new from IPD - intentionally for the N/A engine, but never used it. Is it useless for this use?

Click to expand...

Can't comment on that. I didn't see the need to change out the stock T cam from my engine though.

I do wish it had a bit more torque down in the low revs since I mostly drive like a grandma and like to drive in high gears very often but that might be a job for an adjustable cam gear.

cihla said:

5. Chip - https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-940-turbo-3.html

Click to expand...

Those premade chips can always be a bit hit or miss since they were made for one specific setup. They could work well or not at all.

I suggest getting in touch with redblockpowered on here, I am more than absolutely happy with his chips. They are awesome.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355788

cihla said:

6. Exhaust will be custom made

Click to expand...

Great! A 3" exhaust should make a great update as well.

I actually have an unused and brand new catback 3" JT-Tuning exhaust with only a back muffler (so the first muffler is deleted) sitting in my shed that I can't use because it will not pass our strict inspections.
I could make you a great deal if you're interested. Let me know if so.
It's this one: https://martelius.com/en/putkistot/jt-volvo-740-940-turbo-1-silencer-catback

cihla said:

7. Maybe a wideband sond https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/mtxl_plus.php

Click to expand...

That should definitely not be a "maybe". It is a must when tuning the engine / chipping it and swapping injectors.
You need to know what the engine is doing and if it's healthy.
I am very happy with my AEM Uego.

cihla said:

8. Magnaflow CAT

Click to expand...

Great!

Hi, neighbour! [2]

1. 19T or Holset HX30W
2. Siemens Deka 875 (E85 support for same price)
3. Isuzu NPR from junkyard!
4. Try to find OEM "V" cam
5. You can go for MS for price of KLRacing chips, mate... Or find smthng cheaper
6. Only 76mm!
7. Wideband without tuneable EMS it's worth of money. Buy Haltech or MS before!

And yeah - as you seen in first answer: you can do 240 on completely stock engine.

My recommendation is start from aftermarket ECU and 76mm exhaust. And injectors (stock low impendance - bad friend for newer ECU).

Holy crap! Thank you so much people! I didn't expect that many answers. Greetings to you all again!
A ton of awesome info and opinions. Seriously, thank you, greatly appreciated.

@shoestring - Great to hear that I can run that much with those basic mods. I'll be keeping your words in mind! Wonderful experience and advice. Thanks a lot!


@The_Geoffrey - The car should be something between DD and a weekend ride. I'd like it to be agile in town/country roads. Basically, the turbo related question is about whether it's worth to rebuild the stock one or to buy something else. By something else I mean to buy some used turbo and rebuild that or buy something new. I don't want cheap ebay parts. I'd rather add higher quality reliable mods slowly over time.

So here are the tips from you guys -
19T - 730? https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/mitsubishi-td04hl-19t.html
16T - 450? https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/td04-16t.html
Holset HX30W - 570? https://www.speedingparts.de/p/turbo-accessories/turbo/holset-turbocharger/holset-hx30w.html
Rebuid of the stock turbo will be ~300?

Are those prices reasonable? I don't mind buying stuff from all over the world. Let me know about your suppliers. How is it with those angled housings and relocation of wastegate? Is this gonna be needed?
https://lucacarmods.com/shop/turbo/wastegate/rwd-td04-turbo-wastegate-relocation-bracket-volvo-b230/


CAM - I don't really know those from KL-racing, AFAIK the IPD Turbo and V15T were mentioned here around the forum as the best for such use. Even emission test vise. What is your opinion? Lach caps are to be changed too? If yes, which ones?



@rb92673 - yes! I forgot to mention that a PCV will be replaced and a catch can installed. Gaskets too - here I wanted to ask whether I should get some of the special head gaskets or regular Elrigs will do just fine?
https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artikla...745-760_765/motor-22/packningar-40/index.html


@Fa182 - Thanks a lot for that much experience! Just read the redblockpowered thread about his chips. That seems like a way to go in case I'm not going with something bigger than 16T. Anyway, sounds very reasonable to me.

I thought that the "green giants (968)" were the old style EV1 just like from 740. Even KL-racing support recommended them but I was stupid and kept looking at those EV14s...so thanks! Finally my question about which injectors to pick is solved. I can get them for about 44? a piece. THANKS! I've found a thread with deleting the resistor pack - so it should be just soldering all the 5 wires together. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.
In case I bought the green giants - is it necessary to chip the ECU?


Intercooler - thanks for proving that I've made a right choice. I'll buy the KL-racing without AC. The intercooler from do88 looks awesome, but it's really expensive and for my use it's surely an overkill.


Exhaust - is it too loud or is it wthout any certificate or what's the problem on the inspection? I know that the police is pretty brutal on tuners in Austria, haha. Anyway, thank you for your offer, you can PM me the price and I will discuss it with my mechanic/welder. Our initial thought was ripping some BMW 3-liter exhaust.

Wideband - ok, scratching the "maybe", haha. Thanks for the tip on AEM Uego. It is cheaper and I guess will work just fine.



@EFbI4 - thanks for your tips!
1. brought them to consideration above
2. aren't those a brutal overkill? That's more than double ccm.
3. There are no trucks like that in Slovak junkyards so I guess I'll stick to the KL-racing.
4. I believe it's easier to buy a new IPD or ENEM than to find the V cam. I'll be trying to pass the emission tests too and for that may be the IPD the best. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.

7. Can you please explain a little bit more? I'm sure a proper tune with aftermarket programable ECU would be great, but I've never been to that part of tuning so I have no idea what to look at.

THANK YOU ALL SO FAR!

In terms of camshafts look at the kgtrimning KG2T They also have decently priced clutched in stock, and emails get a quick response in case of detailed questions. This should give you what you want without changing the head itself for your power goal.

I also currently am working on getting redblockpowereds chips to Europe, with him getting part for the licencing. They should be ready in a week, the ev6 resistor pack jumpers I can also provide. A set of both is around 90€ + shipping

He's also working on a 15g, green giants and 012 maf tune, do that could be a stage 2 upgrade eventually when you get a 16t. The 13c can be rebuild for 50€ with a rebuild kit from turborebuild.uk, if you are into diy

In general tuning exhausts require 2 dampers to be okay in the stronger EU inspection, JT superflow has a nice options, with 1/2 dampers and catalytic converters in 100/200cells. They also have downpipes for the 13c and 19t.

In terms of head gasket, get a genuine elring, and possibly stronger headbolts (kg also sell these, I've used them)

Thony is selling a set of used green giants in the for sale section, with chipping still a good dealhttp://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=357599

cihla said:

So here are the tips from you guys -
19T - 730? https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/mitsubishi-td04hl-19t.html
16T - 450? https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/td04-16t.html
Holset HX30W - 570? https://www.speedingparts.de/p/turbo-accessories/turbo/holset-turbocharger/holset-hx30w.html
Rebuid of the stock turbo will be ~300?


Are those prices reasonable? I don't mind buying stuff from all over the world. Let me know about your suppliers. How is it with those angled housings and relocation of wastegate? Is this gonna be needed?
https://lucacarmods.com/shop/turbo/wastegate/rwd-td04-turbo-wastegate-relocation-bracket-volvo-b230/

Click to expand...

For new ones I guess those prices are reasonable. They have angled outlets though, which makes mounting a downpipe a bit more difficult - more to that below.
Keep in mind the Holset is not a direct fit to the stock manifold because it has a different flange.

I was perfectly happy to buy a used one from here though for less than half of that.

My suggestion is that you could post an ad in the "wanted" section what you are looking for and you will get everything you need 90% for a reasonable price in a short time.

If you're gonna use a 16T or any other turbo from a later FWD car, the exhaust housing needs to be rotated, but this is also not too hard. You need a good pair of needle nose pliers and remove a pin to rotate it.
The oil and water lines will bolt up exactly.
Here's a how-to thread from TLAO: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=83929

Regarding the exhaust housing, there are 3 different ones: conical (as the stock 13C and some 15G's), straight (16T and others) and angled (also 16T etc.).
The straight outlet is the easiest as you can use your existing downpipe and just weld on the correct flange.
The angled outlet requires a custom curved downpipe, which is a bit harder to make.
Here's a photo from another thread:


Because you rotated the housing, the wastegate actuator will not bolt up, that's why the bracket is needed.
In my opinion, you definitely don't need to spend 40? on that, it's easy enough to make yourself, unless you really don't want to.

I used the template from http://b230fk.de/volvo/test/austausch-des-atl/2/ - click the download link. You can use Chrome auto translate to read the site.
The green marked area on the photo above the line where the 2 holes are needs to be removed as they will hit the oil line.

cihla said:

@Fa182 - Thanks a lot for that much experience! Just read the redblockpowered thread about his chips. That seems like a way to go in case I'm not going with something bigger than 16T. Anyway, sounds very reasonable to me.

I thought that the "green giants (968)" were the old style EV1 just like from 740. Even KL-racing support recommended them but I was stupid and kept looking at those EV14s...so thanks! Finally my question about which injectors to pick is solved. I can get them for about 44? a piece. THANKS! I've found a thread with deleting the resistor pack - so it should be just soldering all the 5 wires together. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.
In case I bought the green giants - is it necessary to chip the ECU?

Click to expand...

Here's a great video on how to change the injectors to the -968 and how to make the resistor mod (turn on english subtitles):
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dlIeZF2dkCg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

For just running and driving the car, chips will probably not be necessary, but the performance will greatly benefit from them and help to get the best out of the setup.
The stock ECU is capable of adjusting the fuel to some level. This is done by disconnecting the battery for half an hour or so and the ECU will relearn.
Not sure if it can handle the -968 injectors since they are quite a bit larger.
That's why it's important to have an eye on the AFR with a wideband.

cihla said:

Exhaust - is it too loud or is it wthout any certificate or what's the problem on the inspection? I know that the police is pretty brutal on tuners in Austria, haha. Anyway, thank you for your offer, you can PM me the price and I will discuss it with my mechanic/welder. Our initial thought was ripping some BMW 3-liter exhaust.

Click to expand...

I have no idea if it's loud, I haven't even tried it.
It was a bit of an impulsive purchase...
I wanted to try it out but actually never bothered to mount it in between inspections.

Well it is without a certificate and it has no "E" number, which is a must (for all parts on the car actually), especially for the exhaust.

In general, custom made exhaust are illegal and forbidden in Austria, even if they meet noise and emission rules and all that.

I'll try to take some photos in the next few days and think about the price

cihla said:

Wideband - ok, scratching the "maybe", haha. Thanks for the tip on AEM Uego. It is cheaper and I guess will work just fine.

Click to expand...

Great!

Fa182 said:

Keep in mind the Holset is not a direct fit to the stock manifold because it has a different flange.

Click to expand...

Not much work to fit the Holset to stock manifold, but the Holset in not water cooled.

If you go the Holset route, I have some adapter plates made to compensate for the step on the manifold. Not that milling is all that difficult but if you want to keep it reversible.

NB: I removed the step with an angle grinder and used a belt sander to flatten the flange. Added the Volvo stainless steel gasket and the turbo has been in the same spot for 100K/10 years without issue.

My experience from 10 years of daily driving a 240 with +T and between 220-240 crank hp:
Reliability is excellent
Fuel efficiency is fine, not great, but not worse than stock (8-10L/100km)
Power band is great, pulled strong from 2K up to 5,5-ish, sub 6 seconds 0-100kmh.
Dont go small on a turbo, I'm still running a T3 with 60 trim compressor and Cosworth .63 turbine with some mods. Its not a big turbo by any means but still larger than a FWD Volvo Mitsu and can handle some good abuse.

Decide how far you want to go. With the power level I ran mine at, a D24TIC clutch works, LH2.4 can handle it, stock fuel pumps are more than fine, Volvo T cam is even fine etc. Beyond this level, one or more of these things mentioned and not mentioned can (but not necessary will) be on the edge of their capacity.

First going the LH 2.4 route with chips, maybe fresh AMM etc, separate wideband is an easy start and not that expensive. Still keep in mind that many good aftermarket EMS systems nowadays have internal wideband and are about the same price as two sets of chips and a wideband.. Not counting installation of course.

If you can, go for a good clutch from the start. Stock M90 clutch is pretty good but the two mass flywheel is heavy and not that strong. D24TIC clutch and dog dish flywheel is OK, TTV racing flywheel and for example 850R clutch is very easy to operate and engine revs much nicer without the enormous flyweel..

Choices chooses. If you have good used parts or already have certain parts thats of course going to give you a direction to take. If you need to start somewhere with new parts, carefully look at which parts to take, it saves you buying twice, as I'm doing now

Yes 220-240 crank horsepower should be no problem with a 13C, more boost, and maybe more camshaft as well as a good tune.

My diesel clutch with M90 has been doing fine with ~255 wheel torque but I can also understand the appeal of the lighter TTV flywheel for a more sporting feel to go with a more aggressive camshaft. If you do not plan on track/high performance use for the car I would keep the T cam for better throttle response at normal driving RPMs and better torque in that same area.

From what you describe it sounds like a stock turbo setup with more boost and chips would be appropriate. Thanks for the endorsement Fa182, it really means a lot! Swedbrick will be taking over sales of my chips in Europe shortly which should be beneficial for everyone involved.

I love my V15T for my application (daily use/occasional track time) and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a performance upgrade. However, if you are looking for an engine that feels 100% original I would say you should stick to the T cam. My car can be kind of grumpy when the engine is cold or when the RPM is very very low (<1400 or so if you are applying throttle) in a way that does tell you it has been modified.

Based on what you're asking and describing I would probably stick with the 13C first, you can get an engine that is very satisfying and fun (most importantly) while maintaining OEM reliability and design.

@Swedbrick - thank you for the info. I searched a bit about the KG2T as it was supposed to have a great low end, but somewhere here on turbobricks was a reply from the maker, that it's basically A / K cam suitable for 350hp+ and that might be a little bit too much for my use.

Those chips have my interest, I guess I'll put them on my shopping list.

Is it seriously that cheap to rebuild a turbo? Where's the catch? Why is it normally 250-300eur when a proper shop is doing the work?

As far as I know, here in Slovakia you need a certificate for the rear muffler as that's the first thing cops want when they stop a car with irregular exhaust.
Great to know they have downpipes for those turbos!

Alright, genuine elring coming on the shopping list. Are the regular elring headbolts weak? They cost ~12eur here and the stronger ones from KG are 50eur. Not saying I want to go cheap on that, just asking.

Thony - I dropped him a message, thank you!
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@Fa182 - thank you so much! Awesome info and guides! Many questions answered. It helped a lot.
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@JW240 / redblockpowered- Thanks a lot for your input guys.
Yes, deciding which turbo to pick is going to be harder than I thought or let's say it's difficult to decide whether to put 300? into 13c. I'm still curious about the rebuild kit for 50? because I've never heard of it.

Fresh AMM - stock size or the 3"?

M90 - yes, I should totally find the M90. I will definitely get to that but I'm sure there is no one selling it in Slovakia. There's a guy in Poland selling it but I have to find out which year it is as the latest models were the best according to wikipedia, haha. Please, let me know what should I look at and what else might I need for the swap. I guess a driveshaft will have to be modified and maybe some other diff? Currently my car is B230F with M47 and an open diff.
https://allegro.pl/oferta/volvo-940-2-4-td-tic-wal-napedowy-m90-9839187647
https://allegro.pl/oferta/skrzynia-biegow-sprzeglo-m90-volvo-960-s90-t5-swap-9464769389

What do you think about the EMS? Any particular one? You've made me curious as I was gonna go with the wideband AEM UEGO.

When comparing the V15T and IPD Turbo and a T cam, should't be the IPD somewhere in between? That's just my guess based on what I've read here and there.
But yeah, redblockpowered, you've pretty much nailed it, no track racing and I'd like it to be reliable with good idle.

THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERYONE! YOU ARE AWESOME!

cihla said:

Is it seriously that cheap to rebuild a turbo? Where's the catch? Why is it normally 250-300eur when a proper shop is doing the work?

Click to expand...

I got these:
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3444877-Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Service-Repair-Kit-fits-TD04-Mitsubishi-Turbocharger-Bearings-and-Seals-Flat-Back.html
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3623108-Brand-New-Mitsubishi-TD04-Turbocharger-Heat-Shield-Turbo-Shroud-575mm.html

The catch is that the shop will balance and correctly assemble it for you, although with a 13c you'll be fine putting the turbine and compressor back together as their independently balanced. Just mark their respective orientation and you'll be fine

If you want something plug n play, buy a chra like such, Mitsubishi are easily split to replace the core.
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3509034-Genuine-Melett-UK-Turbo-CHRA-Mitsubishi-TD0413C-4918908300-Volvo.html

cihla said:

Alright, genuine elring coming on the shopping list. Are the regular elring headbolts weak? They cost ~12eur here and the stronger ones from KG are 50eur. Not saying I want to go cheap on that, just asking.

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The stock headbolts are fine for low-medium boost (0.3-1bar), but more clamping force is always a good idea to keep a good seal. These allow for an affordable reusable upgrade

cihla said:

M90 - yes, I should totally find the M90. I will definitely get to that but I'm sure there is no one selling it in Slovakia. There's a guy in Poland selling it but I have to find out which year it is as the latest models were the best according to wikipedia, haha

Click to expand...

I'm pulling my current strengthened m90 in April to swap it out for one with whiteblock m90 internals. I have a post up in the for sale section, showing the whole swap kit for reference

As for the amm, redblockpowered chips assume stock, but from what I've understood big 3" chips are in development

Swedbrick said:

As for the amm, redblockpowered chips assume stock, but from what I've understood big 3" chips are in development

Click to expand...

Yes indeed. Have to get my car running again first.

And yes, Mitsubishi stuff is independently balanced so no need to be especially particular about how it goes back together. I was very careful when reassembling my 15G anyway, because why not?

And just because I'm curious, is there any reason in particular why you think the stock one needs a rebuild? If it doesn't have too much thrust play (any in/out play you can feel is unacceptable) or radial play (can't touch the housings under any circumstances) I wouldn't touch it.

I made the 184 whp on a turbo that wasn't smoking or leaking but turned out to have been self-clearancing against the turbine back plate. I wonder if a decent one would have been even healthier...

@Swedbrick - those kits sound pretty good. Didn't know it should be easy to DIY. My only experience with getting a turbo rebuilt was when brothers S40 2.0D HDI needed one and that was ~300eur. But I guess it is a different style turbo.

Alright - I don't think I'll have to use more than 1bar so hopefully the Elring will do just fine. But I haven't decided yet, haha.

About the M90 - PMd

@redblockpowered - the turbo had some radial play that I was definitely not comfortable with. It was not smoking, but it was definitely leaking here and there. There is no way we'd put that back on in such condition.

@Everyone - any brakes upgrade for my use? I guess I won't need anything drastic, but I think it is necessary to upgrade brakes when I'm doubling the power. Mine are Lucas-Girling non-ABS.

Got it. As for brakes I'd probably just make sure everything is in good condition with new OEM pads and fluid. The stock brake systems are very good. If you do still want an upgrade Swedbrick sells kits for XC90 brakes, which I think work with a 17" or larger wheel?

redblockpowered said:

Got it. As for brakes I'd probably just make sure everything is in good condition with new OEM pads and fluid. The stock brake systems are very good. If you do still want an upgrade Swedbrick sells kits for XC90 brakes, which I think work with a 17" or larger wheel?

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Yes my kit requires at least a 17" with the 336mm rotor, the swedes use the same caliper on 354 350z rotors for 18" fitment, you could also look into the 302mm calipers, those are also bolt on, and fit with 16", see link below to an older thread
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=344357

Lovely info! Thank you very much!

I saw a couple guys selling S60R all four calipers in facebook groups. What do you think about them? Compared to the XC90?
My rear axle just got new ATE pads and rotors so maybe it would be good to get the front XC90 upgrade.
I'm on 17"s and not planning to go any bigger.

The 302mm set from 850/V70-1 is probably best balance between cost/performance.

S60R set requires bigger diameter master cylinder, which isn't difficult but another step to take. They are light, which is always a good thing.

Keep in mind that allegedly good replica Brembo calipers for S60R are around 160 euro each, when buying second hand.

I'd start with stock AMM to keep the car as close to stock for the start, besides it will support enough air for first steps. On mine, stock AMM maxxed out just before 0.6 bar, but thats with the T3.