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Old 06-06-2017, 10:55 AM   #76
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Thank you Kenny for spending your time to show actual data. Despite some morons who want to nit pick and put down your info I found it very valuable to start to quantify this.
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Old 06-06-2017, 11:09 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
First one I saw was on a Lexus SC400
Those were all about quiet operation. Quiet, effective, no babysitting. Toyota gave that one enough radiator capacity which helps.
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:51 PM   #78
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Not all ECUs support an e-fan, so grab one from a doner that has one installed from the factory. Forget swapping chips and just swap the whole ECU. As long as the engine is the same and the 940 didn't have an immobilizer installed it should work out just fine. AFAIK, If there was an immobilizer installed, then you'll have to get a chip burned to replace the onboard one. That's what I did for my project 740 (see signature) with a 984 ECU, works great with the computer controlled fan.

You'll need to populate pins 10 and 11 on the harness to run a wire to the low and high speed relays on the fan, but it's simple, easy and avoids hacking radiator hoses to install thermal switches.

A list of ECUs with information on motors and if it has an immobilizer can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=84817
Replacing the whole ECU is not something I particularly want to do since I've already got a spare that's the same as the one in the car. I can burn EPROMs and populating the connector is no problem but if the actual ECU hardware is different I'll probably just keep the mechanical fan.
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:57 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by CAPT_BLOTTO View Post
Thank you Kenny for spending your time to show actual data. Despite some morons who want to nit pick and put down your info I found it very valuable to start to quantify this.
+1!
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:33 PM   #80
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Definitely thank you for taking the time to do the dyno pulls! It'll be really cool to see the gains as you get the car back to running well in stock form, and beyond.

The 240 rally car sees a lot of high revs and sideways action, so air is not always going into the radiator, and the tropical clutch is almost always engaged by the end of a stage (who knows when it kicks on). So for us, the power loss from a fully locked up fan at 4k-7.5k rpm is actually of interest. The good news about that setup is that we have never seen temps over 200F on stage.

I just installed a shrouded e-fan from a 9 series and used the thermo switch in the radiator as well as a switch inside. Heading to one of the hottest rallies we do every year this weekend, will report back on how the system worked.
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:38 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Definitely thank you for taking the time to do the dyno pulls! It'll be really cool to see the gains as you get the car back to running well in stock form, and beyond.

The 240 rally car sees a lot of high revs and sideways action, so air is not always going into the radiator, and the tropical clutch is almost always engaged by the end of a stage (who knows when it kicks on). So for us, the power loss from a fully locked up fan at 4k-7.5k rpm is actually of interest. The good news about that setup is that we have never seen temps over 200F on stage.

I just installed a shrouded e-fan from a 9 series and used the thermo switch in the radiator as well as a switch inside. Heading to one of the hottest rallies we do every year this weekend, will report back on how the system worked.
You sir are in need of more radiator capacity.
Aftermarket aluminum radiators can be purchased by core size, by application... Made up however you like. Another 3-5 pounds in a big aluminum radiator is well worth the effort when the engine stays cool regardless of savagery on the part of the driver.

I did this in the rallycar. Temp gauge never climbs.
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:46 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
You sir are in need of more radiator capacity.
Aftermarket aluminum radiators can be purchased by core size, by application... Made up however you like. Another 3-5 pounds in a big aluminum radiator is well worth the effort when the engine stays cool regardless of savagery on the part of the driver.

I did this in the rallycar. Temp gauge never climbs.
Agreed. Mishimoto would is a go-to for aftermarket aluminum radiators for me. They have fantastic build quality, not to mention a kick ass warranty that covers front end collision.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:33 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
You sir are in need of more radiator capacity.
Aftermarket aluminum radiators can be purchased by core size, by application... Made up however you like. Another 3-5 pounds in a big aluminum radiator is well worth the effort when the engine stays cool regardless of savagery on the part of the driver.

I did this in the rallycar. Temp gauge never climbs.
I wouldn't say it needs more capacity. The system works just fine as it is with a stock fan shroud and tropical fan clutch, since it never sees the temps over 180-190F and the needle is steady.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:42 PM   #84
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I wouldn't say it needs more capacity. The system works just fine as it is with a stock fan shroud and tropical fan clutch, since it never sees the temps over 180-190F and the needle is steady.
Out of curiosity....why did you decide to switch to an efan? Noise? Engine bay space? Seriously curious.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:54 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by thismachine13 View Post
Out of curiosity....why did you decide to switch to an efan? Noise? Engine bay space? Seriously curious.
The added space is a bonus, but it comes down to being able to control the fan.
The mechanical fan definitely does work, but it's likely overkill and we have no clue how often it's actually on.
The e-fan will use less power when it's on, and we can control when it's on and off... which may be more often than the mechanical fan... but who knows?
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Old 06-06-2017, 04:22 PM   #86
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Thank you.
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Old 06-13-2017, 04:56 PM   #87
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Update on the efan:
It worked great all weekend at the rally race. We never had to over-ride the stock temp switch, and the coolant temps never got over 195F-ish while on stage. Ambient temps were from 60-80F.
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:15 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Update on the efan:
It worked great all weekend at the rally race. We never had to over-ride the stock temp switch, and the coolant temps never got over 195F-ish while on stage. Ambient temps were from 60-80F.
This didn't happen to be the Idaho race, was it?
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:01 PM   #89
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This didn't happen to be the Idaho race, was it?
Yep!
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:59 PM   #90
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Yep!
Cool. My sister was racing her E30 there this past weekend. Looked like good times.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:31 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by gross polluter View Post
Cool. My sister was racing her E30 there this past weekend. Looked like good times.
She was navi for Eli? If so, I met her at Olympus when she was navigating for Rebecca. Small world!
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:32 PM   #92
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She was navi for Eli? If so, I met her at Olympus when she was navigating for Rebecca. Small world!
Yep! Shannon is my lil' sis.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:10 PM   #93
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Isn't the real story that you should spend money on other performance improvements?

Then if you can't leave well enough alone or you want a quieter fan so you can hear more turbo noise. Go for the efan.

Just my thought. Myself I have not changed any of my cars But I am not against using electric fans. I like adding the extra pusher in front. It helps the a/c work a bit better in the hottest part of the summer. Added that to the 82 turbo when it had working a/c.
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