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240 Junction Block Switch

Don't want to have to go through bleeding the brakes again. Off to the JY; it's not a critical electronic part for that kind of dough!!!
 
Look for a Non-ABS '91 240. Hen's teeth but they show up sometimes. Pull the junction block, the reservoir and the pigtail that connects to the reservoir. Install parts. Wire pigtail to Old Junction Block Switch wires. Profit.

Here's one I know will work Andrew's FOR SALE Thread

Here's one that also may work, but I don't know for sure Taylor's FOR SALE Thread
 
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I wouldn't get one from P&P because that's a part you wouldn't know if it's good ,then you just wasted time and $.
Check out the one's Bigmatteson suggested.
 
swiggy said:
I wouldn't recommend the MTC one, I couldn't get the lines to seal. Seems to be really poorly machined threads in the holes in there.
Click to expand...

+1. Had a real b*tch of a time getting everything threaded back in when I did it. I ended up pulling it back out and running a spare brake line fitting I had through the threads a few times before re-installing. Made a world of difference
 
billkaz said:
+1. Had a real b*tch of a time getting everything threaded back in when I did it. I ended up pulling it back out and running a spare brake line fitting I had through the threads a few times before re-installing. Made a world of difference
Click to expand...

uuuhhhhh....*THAT* would be *CHASING THE THREADS*...
something I do on ANY "new hydraulic part" I install
a LOT of the olde British stuff has *WEIRD thread pitches and
profiles* and if you DON'T "chase to verify" you may very well
trash a brand new hydraulic line.....
on a ROLLER that can mean any one of almost a HUNDRED fittings
in the high pressure hydraulic system that runs the brakes / and suspension
2500 psi will "slice your flesh like a razoo blade" if it spurts from an ill
fitting "thread pair"....DAMHIKT!! :oops:
 
dobber13 said:
I wouldn't get one from P&P because that's a part you wouldn't know if it's good ,then you just wasted time and $.
Check out the one's Bigmatteson suggested.
Click to expand...

There's really not a lot that can go wrong with that specific block. Besides, we all know that 240's end up in JY's because of really easy fixes that are "too expensive". That said, PM those guys. I know for a fact that Andrew's block is good, or was a couple months ago when I saw him last.
 
TrickMick said:
uuuhhhhh....*THAT* would be *CHASING THE THREADS*...
something I do on ANY "new hydraulic part" I install
a LOT of the olde British stuff has *WEIRD thread pitches and
profiles* and if you DON'T "chase to verify" you may very well
trash a brand new hydraulic line.....
on a ROLLER that can mean any one of almost a HUNDRED fittings
in the high pressure hydraulic system that runs the brakes / and suspension
2500 psi will "slice your flesh like a razoo blade" if it spurts from an ill
fitting "thread pair"....DAMHIKT!! :oops:
Click to expand...

I had no problem getting the lines in, they fit and thread in just fine, my problem was that it leaked from several of the fittings after I torqued them. After it leaked, I tried over-torquing them too, just couldn't get them all to fully seal so I returned the part. They sealed well enough that the brakes felt normal, but small amounts of fluid would drip out, you could clearly see it. If you hold the MTC part and the Volvo part next to each other, you can tell the threads are not as deep/well-defined (is there a word for this?) as the volvo one, I just put it down to poor quality machining/quality control. You get what you pay for I guess.

I am as cheap as anyone else here but I wouldn't trust scantech/MTC on any brake/suspension/steering parts at all
 
I'm not the only one on here who had this problem either, there are a couple of threads where people had brand new leaking MTC junction boxes. Its only brakes..
 
swiggy said:
I'm not the only one on here who had this problem either, there are a couple of threads where people had brand new leaking MTC junction boxes. Its only brakes..
Click to expand...

BTDT....*much to my distaste* (for having to do the job TWICE)....there are just
some bits that I can't justify the "lick 'n a prayer" approach to repair (I don't use
head bolts out of an engine w/over 200k on the clock and NO record of "head-
gasket repair INCLUDING a "bolt set"...don't re-use FLYWHEEL bolts...don't put
"aftermarket" LCAB in a 240...if I have an exhaust leak at the head-manifold joint
I spend the time and do$h to install ALL NEW *FACTORY TURBO* STUDS....)

the last junction block I did was years ago and I used a "RAMAC" supplied part....
my friend is STILL driving that 240 over a 100k since I did that repair... you can CHASE
threads in a part *BUT* if (as mentioned) the holes aren't bored straight or deep
then all bet are off because the *BOTTOM* of that hole is the TUBING SEAT....

c'mon now let's ALL join the "race to the bottom",,,,sheeesh....:wtf:
 
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