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Old 02-23-2018, 04:05 PM   #1
rokaskey
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Default redblock distributor to coil on plug conversion

Thinking of putting in a standalone ecu in my Volvo. Fuel supply question don't bother as much as ignition. The biggest question bothering me is how to convert it to coil on plug ignition system, since the single coil distributor system seems quite archaic. Has anybody tried to tackle this idea?

Biggest mystery for me right now is how to implement a cam angle sensor. I have a head mounted distributor, and wondering if there are any bolt-on sensors or kits to simplify mounting a CPS?
Also, from which vehicles do CPS fit or almost fit (minor mods required)?

Planning to use VAG 1.8t coils (cheap and easy to find where I live)
Searching info for the 16v engines, but any help is welcome
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:07 PM   #2
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If you don't plan on switching to sequential injection, then you don't need a cam sensor for COP. You can run Waste-COP with just a crank trigger.
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:24 PM   #3
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If you don't plan on switching to sequential injection, then you don't need a cam sensor for COP. You can run Waste-COP with just a crank trigger.
Planning sequential injection for sure, the single point injection currently in is even worse than the ignition system. but that part is more or less understandable.
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:54 PM   #4
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The 2 ways I know of to get cam angle are:

1) Head mounted Hall Effect distributor. Used in 1985-1989 700 series cars. You can buy new from IPD or Rock Auto (BOSCH 0986237605 Distributor);

2) Yoshifab has parts to adapt a Mitsubishi (?) hall effect pickup to the block mounted distributor https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-re...s-adapter.html

Last edited by SwedishKnievel; 02-23-2018 at 06:54 PM..
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:21 PM   #5
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What about block mounted option? Did all redblocks have the same interm. shaft regardless of distributor location?
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:42 PM   #6
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It seems that there was a Hall Effect block-mounted distributor (Bosch 0 237 520 004) on 1985-1988 240s.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/a-1...stributor,7108

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am...or_trigger.htm

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What about block mounted option? Did all redblocks have the same interm. shaft regardless of distributor location?
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:00 PM   #7
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For my application a block mounted distributor I'm not sure will work (b234f engine). Also a head mounted option would keep an OEM look

The DSM hall option unfortunately wont work for that same reason.
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:03 PM   #8
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I believe you can make a block mounted distributor work on a B234F by swapping in an intermediate shaft that has a distributor gear.

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For my application a block mounted distributor I'm not sure will work (b234f engine). Also a head mounted option would keep an OEM look

The DSM hall option unfortunately wont work for that same reason.
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:16 PM   #9
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What type of signal do you need?

Compufire has a very inexpensive system for VW (fits most regular Bosch distributors- I used it to do DIS conversion on my B21F) https://compufire.com/compu-fire-225...on-system.html
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:20 PM   #10
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Are you guys not aware that this has been covered ad nauseam for at least 5 years?
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:23 PM   #11
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Everything redblock has been covered ad nauseam. Just killing time
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:23 PM   #12
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Are you guys not aware that this has been covered ad nauseam for at least 5 years?
would love to see this discussion
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:26 PM   #13
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How about hey telling us what your car is and all that first even?
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Are you guys not aware that this has been covered ad nauseam for at least 9 years?
FTFY

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How about hey telling us what your car is and all that first even?
That’s not really important that the OP left out they’re doing this on a B234F. We’re just supposed to answer the question and that’s it.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:48 PM   #15
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If you have to ask...
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simple...just throw the redblock in the trash and install, well, almost anything modern

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Yet Asher here went with...
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:57 PM   #16
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~$65 for a Buchka (CFloMoto) LH2.4/EZK wasted spark board sure seems like a cheap place to start, instead of $800+ for a standalone ECU that can do full sequential.
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:06 AM   #17
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Why do you need sequential?
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Old 02-24-2018, 02:03 AM   #18
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That compufire isn't going to do you much of any good with COPs or Wasted COPs...

keep it simple.

60-2 crank sensor (stock, leave it there)... and drill and tap your CAM pulley, slap a steel set screw in it (m4x0.75 should be ok, or a 10-32 if thats what you got), hover a hall sensor over that off some nifty little bracket that won't move if you smack it with a hammer (check out what lassis just posted in the "volvos in the snow" thread), toss in an ms3, MS2 or micro, or even..... ooooohhhhhh sh!t..... MS1 and... wait for it....





done.

But do your homework... Really, all of it, no slacking, no paying the kid down the street... Seriously, just do it, really, its not that much reading.
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Old 02-24-2018, 04:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
How about hey telling us what your car is and all that first even?
I didn't think it would be necessary, besides the engine but here you go:
1991 volvo 940 gle
B234f engine
Lh 2.4 with ez116k ignition

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
That compufire isn't going to do you much of any good with COPs or Wasted COPs...

keep it simple.

done.
I have heard about the compufire route, but i really don't see reason to hack up a working stock ecu. Standalone may seem an expensive way to go, but in my opinion it gives more control over everything.

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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post

But do your homework... Really, all of it, no slacking, no paying the kid down the street... Seriously, just do it, really, its not that much reading.
Dont have an option of somebody else doing a hackjob instead of me. Not a lot of people even think about doing something foolish like this
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwedishKnievel View Post
The 2 ways I know of to get cam angle are:

1) Head mounted Hall Effect distributor. Used in 1985-1989 700 series cars. You can buy new from IPD or Rock Auto (BOSCH 0986237605 Distributor);

2) Yoshifab has parts to adapt a Mitsubishi (?) hall effect pickup to the block mounted distributor https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-re...s-adapter.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwedishKnievel View Post
It seems that there was a Hall Effect block-mounted distributor (Bosch 0 237 520 004) on 1985-1988 240s.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/a-1...stributor,7108

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am...or_trigger.htm
So basically the LH 2.2 dizzies for 240's and 740's right?
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:33 AM   #21
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Uhhhhhh


man. no one's ever done that before. I don't think you can with a volvo, something about the helmholz resonances
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:46 AM   #22
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Uhhhhhh


man. no one's ever done that before. I don't think you can with a volvo, something about the helmholz resonances
Do go on please.

I was mildly surprised at this thread as I didn't think you could do COP with a hall sensor.
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:11 AM   #23
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You can't do cop/wasted spark with a 2.2 distributor either head or block mounted since there is no TDC information available. Unless you have both distributors then you can cut 3 of the slots off one of the hall sensors to make a TDC signal. I've thought about drilling and tapping the valve cover for a sensor to pick-up one of the cam lobes. The op has 2.4 and should just go wasted spark with a Buchka board.
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I was mildly surprised at this thread as I didn't think you could do COP with a hall sensor.
Using Hall, optical, VR, etc has no bearing on the output strategy of the controller.
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:24 PM   #25
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But since he’s on 2.4, there’s a 60-2 flywheel there, and he could snip off the 3 lobes on a hall distributor... but I don’t know if that head mounted distributor has those guts. But either way, a small bracket across the front of the cam pulley, a hall sensor, and a steel set screw on the cam pulley would do it.

Least expensive is going wasted cop, and with an ms2, the fuel side would still be way better than stock, even with batch injection.
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