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Old 02-19-2020, 02:02 AM   #1
deadken
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Default First time MicroSquirt install, what to expect?

Like most folks here, I have more than one Volvo and I'm fine with that. I have 6 at the moment, but that is including 1 parts car that is almost ready to go for scrap and 1 donor car that is completely unmolested at the moment.

I'm trying to keep my focus on my 1992 944T at the moment. I've decided that I want to install the R-134a AC, larger fuel tank, squirter block, and heated mirrors from the donor car into my 944T this summer / fall. I do have a 531 head at the machine shop and I'll likely go with a larger turbo installed at the same time. So, with quite a bit of 'hardware changes' planned, I've decided to install a linuxman51 MicroSquirt plug and play as soon as weather and time permit. My thinking is that a plug and play will allow me to learn the 'software' end of things and make the aftermarket ECU swap rather simple. I'm thinking that after all of the hardware changes take place, I might outgrow the MicroSquirt and be ready to move onto a MS3 setup at which time I should have already learned the software aspect end of it.

So, can I ask what other parts MicroSquirt users have needed get their cars up and running?

So far I have the MicroSquirt controller with the modified ECU and EZK boxes as well as a air intake temperature sensor (all included in the plug and play kit). I'm thinking that I will need to get:
1) a relay that will be switched from the fuel pump relay and power the MicroSquirt
2) a wideband O2 sensor to really aid in tuning the maps. Any suggestions on what brand to get / avoid would be helpful. I'm thinking of trying to find the old Innovate setup I bought to install on my '72 1800ES just to have something to install (which would mean digging around through the 1800 section of parts bins. So, yeah, I'm ready to buy another if it'll be better)
3) a 3 bar map sensor and pigtail. I'm thinking GM since it would already be very well documented, but I don't know what year and model to buy.
4) a Yoshifab TPS adapter and a 850 TPS and pigtail. I'm doubting the LH 2.4 throttle switch uses the same plug as the 850 TPS. Though, I'm thinking/hoping that the wiring shouldn't need any changes (3 wires for: a common, an idle signal, and a WOT signal should work for Ground, 5volt reference, and TPS signal)
5) some wiring to run from the ECU to the airbox to get the intake air temperature reading (or should that be mounted after the intercooler?)
6) a good set of crimpers, quality shrink wrap, a bunch of different colored wiring (gauge undetermined as of yet) and some assorted crimps (I already own a soldering iron and gun).
7) more time and money than I have considered

Can anyone here tell me how far off the mark I am? I would like to amass as many, if not all, of the parts needed before I even start this project in hopes of completing the install in a day. Right now, I'm thinking that I'll be running speed density fuel injection to start. I'm assuming that I'll leave the Mass Air Flow sensor in place for now so that I can switch over to MAF fuel injection if I run into problems or don't like speed density.

Thanks in advance for any help, insight, thoughts, or even comedic breaks that pertain to what I'm looking for!

TLDR: What 'extra' items do I need to install a plug and play MicroSquirt?
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:59 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadken View Post
Like most folks here, I have more than one Volvo and I'm fine with that. I have 6 at the moment, but that is including 1 parts car that is almost ready to go for scrap and 1 donor car that is completely unmolested at the moment.

I'm trying to keep my focus on my 1992 944T at the moment. I've decided that I want to install the R-134a AC, larger fuel tank, squirter block, and heated mirrors from the donor car into my 944T this summer / fall. I do have a 531 head at the machine shop and I'll likely go with a larger turbo installed at the same time. So, with quite a bit of 'hardware changes' planned, I've decided to install a linuxman51 MicroSquirt plug and play as soon as weather and time permit. My thinking is that a plug and play will allow me to learn the 'software' end of things and make the aftermarket ECU swap rather simple. I'm thinking that after all of the hardware changes take place, I might outgrow the MicroSquirt and be ready to move onto a MS3 setup at which time I should have already learned the software aspect end of it.

So, can I ask what other parts MicroSquirt users have needed get their cars up and running?

So far I have the MicroSquirt controller with the modified ECU and EZK boxes as well as a air intake temperature sensor (all included in the plug and play kit). I'm thinking that I will need to get:
1) a relay that will be switched from the fuel pump relay and power the MicroSquirt
2) a wideband O2 sensor to really aid in tuning the maps. Any suggestions on what brand to get / avoid would be helpful. I'm thinking of trying to find the old Innovate setup I bought to install on my '72 1800ES just to have something to install (which would mean digging around through the 1800 section of parts bins. So, yeah, I'm ready to buy another if it'll be better)
3) a 3 bar map sensor and pigtail. I'm thinking GM since it would already be very well documented, but I don't know what year and model to buy.
4) a Yoshifab TPS adapter and a 850 TPS and pigtail. I'm doubting the LH 2.4 throttle switch uses the same plug as the 850 TPS. Though, I'm thinking/hoping that the wiring shouldn't need any changes (3 wires for: a common, an idle signal, and a WOT signal should work for Ground, 5volt reference, and TPS signal)
5) some wiring to run from the ECU to the airbox to get the intake air temperature reading (or should that be mounted after the intercooler?)
6) a good set of crimpers, quality shrink wrap, a bunch of different colored wiring (gauge undetermined as of yet) and some assorted crimps (I already own a soldering iron and gun).
7) more time and money than I have considered

Can anyone here tell me how far off the mark I am? I would like to amass as many, if not all, of the parts needed before I even start this project in hopes of completing the install in a day. Right now, I'm thinking that I'll be running speed density fuel injection to start. I'm assuming that I'll leave the Mass Air Flow sensor in place for now so that I can switch over to MAF fuel injection if I run into problems or don't like speed density.

Thanks in advance for any help, insight, thoughts, or even comedic breaks that pertain to what I'm looking for!

TLDR: What 'extra' items do I need to install a plug and play MicroSquirt?

You plug it in, wire up the map sensor and air temp sensor. When you turn it on the first time you will need to calibrate the ms for the map sensor you chose (this is under tools in tunerstudio -> calibrate map/baro). if you're getting a GM sensor, the common one is a gm 3bar that is shaped like a little brick. You may get better results however with a map sensor that you can screw directly into the intake manifold as recently a number of people have had problems finding legitimate gm 3 bar sensors and the aftermarket ones can apparently blow apart. I normally source my stuff from auber instruments, they're not oem but they haven't failed yet for me either.

You will also want to have a wideband, and hook it up to the ms (this can be accomplished by hooking up the wideband output to the narrow band sensor's input as that's connected to the p&p harness..normally a female spade connector unless you've got a late model o2 where it's wired up differently. in that case, connect it to whatever wire the signal goes in on).
TPS is nice to have, and you will want a new 3 pin connector. Share the 5v vref from the map sensor for the tps. last time I checked, you could get the 3 pin connector kit from summit racing, so I'm sure other sites that sell bosch connectors will have it as well.
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Old 02-19-2020, 12:47 PM   #3
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I got all my GM sensors and pigtails from Rockauto. Here are the part numbers you can search on:

DELPHI PS10081 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor <--this used a weatherpack style connector which I had to cut grooves into to fit
DELPHI TS10077 Air Intake / Charge Temperature Sensor
WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS 1P1016 Air Intake / Charge Temperature Sensor Connector
BOSCH 0280122001 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS 1P1421 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Connector

Don't forget a resistor for your crank or cam sensor.

For the Volvo specific connectors, like the connector to my hall sensor on my distributor, I used Dave Bartons website.
https://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html

This place has a good selection of GXL automotive wiring:
https://www.wirebarn.com

I used the 8' Microsquirt harness for most of it

I put my Air Intake Temp sensor after the intercooler, I JB welded a bung onto the metal pipe between the intercooler and throttle body.

I don't think the Volvo MAF is supported by MS.
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:06 PM   #4
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Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.pdf

I'll add I recommend to get the paid version of Tuner Studio Auto tune its faster and the best way to tune single handed.
To get started familiarize yourself with the setup guide, then calibrate your sensors.
Do your required fuel calculation, this is a one time setting, not a tuning parameter (any changes here will necessitate a complete retune).
Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Don’t mess with any of the starting or warm up settings until you have established a hot idle. (defaults will get you going)

Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of trims for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor,
You first tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to make it happy when cold.

Set your Idle manually high 1500-2000 rpm and adjust VE to keep it running clean and build heat.
Now is a good time to verify spark timing, don’t try to do any tuning without first verifying spark timing.
If you can’t get the spark timing dialed in STOP and get this sorted first before moving forward.
No sync loss or misfires are tolerable.

To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans, AC, fans, power steering)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than thermostat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down function to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there without sequential injection)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table to that number so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune, highlight and right click and select lock)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells in the idle area to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells) blend/interpolate adjoining cells as needed.

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

Most all of the other adjustments use the hot motor settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE
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Last edited by Dirty Rick; 02-19-2020 at 01:19 PM..
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Old 03-10-2020, 12:00 AM   #5
deadken
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Thank you guys for all of the replies! I read them right away, but didn't respond as I wanted to re-read them a few times first.

First things first:
I found my Innovate Wideband O2 kit. I remember reading something like: the later kits used a better O2 sensor that didn't require a fresh air calibration (IIRC). At this point, while I'm not against buying a new O2 sensor, I'd like some input on whether or not it is worth it. I think that I could live with doing a fresh air calibration (since it is only done once) and using this brand new set up while spending the money someplace it'll yield better results. But, of course, I'm open to suggestions (especially from others who have experience with this stuff).

Also, no one suggested what year and model of MAP sensor to get, so I'll just get a GM sensor that looks like a little brick (as suggested above). Before buying, I'll take a look at what size threads are available on my intake (I assume some NPT ports are somewhere). Then I'll see what O2 options are supported well in MS and will fit the existing ports (or, I'll just tap a new port). I'll see what my buddy at the parts store suggests and I'll check out Auber Instruments as well.

I've already gotten some really high quality crimpers (well north of $100 a set, 2 different styles). I wanted to ask what gauge wiring is suggested? I can get 16Gauge for free, but that would make a beast of a harness. From what reading I've done, 20 Gauge is just fine for sensors. Does anyone suggest that I use something other than 20 Gauge? (I already have my a ton of stuff in my Wirebarn.com shopping cart (thanks for the suggestion!).

I'll locate my AIT sensor after the intercooler as well.

Lastly, thanks so much for the 'MS Set Up guide'! I had been reading up on the installation guide, but I never saw the installation guide. I now have it downloaded and will be reading it again and again before I need to use it.

Lastly, any suggestions on where to buy TunerStudio? I remember reading that someone here sells it, and I'd like to continue supporting members of our old Volvo community whenever possible. While talking about TunerStudio, can I install it in more than one laptop? I have an older 15" laptop that runs WinXP and was thinking that would likely be sufficient. Then a buddy gave me a 17" laptop running Win7 and I'm thinking that while it is way bulkier, it'll be faster and easier on my eyes. Should I assume that I can only install TunerStudio on one of those laptops? Or can I only install it on 'one at a time' allowing me to decide which suits me better?

TLDR:
1) Stick with the older O2 sensor that came with my Innovate wideband or 'upgrade'?

2) Wideband year and model suggestions?

3) What gauge wiring is suggested for sensors? I have 20 Gauge in my cart and am ready to pull the trigger.

4) Any TurboBricks vendors selling TunerStudio? Can TunerStudio be installed on more than on laptop?
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Old 03-10-2020, 08:58 AM   #6
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There are reports of Innovate LC-1 sensors&controllers failing, resulting in engine destruction. YMMV. AEM has a better reputation. Try searching here for "best wideband" or something similar.

For the wiring, I'd start with the 8 foot MicroSquirt harness from DIY:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-long-harness/
Pre-terminated AmpSeal connector on one end, 20 ga TXL wires, lots of different colors, serial port stub cable, shielded VR sensor cables, and best of all, each wire has a running label printed on it.

Get TunerStudio direct off their website (there's a free version you can start with). I think it's unlimited installs using the registered name you purchased under and password that they send you.
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Old 03-10-2020, 12:05 PM   #7
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I used the 8' Microsquirt harness.

I would buy at least 16 gauge wiring myself, for me it's easier to crimp.

Tunerstudio only comes from their website. There is a free version, but it does not have autotune.

If you purchase it, consider getting megalogviewer as well. It is cheaper to purchase megalogviewer at the same time as Tunerstudio. If you log a session of driving, you can diagnose issues and fine tune your fueling.

I put a Raspberry Pi in my car to log constantly.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...9&postcount=10
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Old 03-10-2020, 12:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadken View Post

TLDR:
1) Stick with the older O2 sensor that came with my Innovate wideband or 'upgrade'?

2) Wideband year and model suggestions?

3) What gauge wiring is suggested for sensors? I have 20 Gauge in my cart and am ready to pull the trigger.

4) Any TurboBricks vendors selling TunerStudio? Can TunerStudio be installed on more than on laptop?
#1 If you have a working Innovate use it, just wire it to the fuel pump relay for power so it does not come on unless the motor is running. Also install the sensor in such a way that it will not get hit with any condensate in the exhaust. I also use a thick bung so the sensor is not directly in the exhaust stream. And lastly ground the Innovate to the motor just like the MS, do not connect it to the sensor ground. I think most of the problems people have with innovate O2's is installation related.

#2 Some German cars use a compatible sensor but they don't always have the right connector. If you need a new sensor use the part number off your old sensor to get a replacement. DIYautoTune.com has replacement sensors in stock.
There is nothing wrong with the older 4.2 sensor they work and last just as long as the newer 4.9 sensor. The 4.9 may be slightly faster and it has a built in calibration resistor and a different connector.

#3 I use mostly 16ga wire as long as it fits the connectors, then I use the largest wire that fits the connectors.

#4 EFI Analytics.com is where you get Tuner Studio
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Old 05-14-2020, 10:51 AM   #9
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I've read and re-read the responses a bunch and I have been meaning to make a solid reply.

But, in the meantime...

I've picked up a Delphi 3bar map sensor yesterday and I wanted to figure out where I am going to locate it so I can assemble a suitable harness for it (and the intake temp sensor).

Any suggestions on where you guys located your MAP? I'm thinking that the shorter I keep the vacuum hose the better, but it likely isn't a big deal. I was thinking that maybe I'd drill and tap one of the unused ports in the throttle body (behind the blade of course). But, I could just drill and tap a place in the manifold right near all of the other vacuum lines.

I meant to respond and ask about the resistance value for the crank sensor. From what I've read, either 5k or 4.7k. Any opinions if one works better?

And lastly, I'm about to pull the trigger for my software needs, I have TunerStudio MS, MegaLogViewer MS, and a RS232 Battery operated Bluetooth & USB Serial Cable Combo in my cart. Anything else needed? I'm thinking maybe getting a DB9 cable, but if the bluetooth one works right, I should never need it and I will already have the short USB - Serial cable if I'm in a pinch.

Last edited by deadken; 05-17-2020 at 12:29 AM..
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Old 05-14-2020, 11:15 AM   #10
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For a pull-up resistor function the resistance is not critical. Its primary purpose is to limit current. Go with the 4.7 k because 5 k is a non standard size and will have to be ordered from a supplier like Digi Key and the smallest size is typically 3W. All you need for the pull-up function is 1/8W or 1/4W.
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Old 06-02-2020, 04:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadken View Post
I've read and re-read the responses a bunch and I have been meaning to make a solid reply.

But, in the meantime...

I've picked up a Delphi 3bar map sensor yesterday and I wanted to figure out where I am going to locate it so I can assemble a suitable harness for it (and the intake temp sensor).

Any suggestions on where you guys located your MAP? I'm thinking that the shorter I keep the vacuum hose the better, but it likely isn't a big deal. I was thinking that maybe I'd drill and tap one of the unused ports in the throttle body (behind the blade of course). But, I could just drill and tap a place in the manifold right near all of the other vacuum lines.
I mounted mine to the intake manifold support underneath. I'm not running an IAC, so not really sure if that is an option with one in place.
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Old 06-07-2020, 04:56 AM   #12
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My MAP sensor is inside the cabin close to the Microsquirt. It seemed too fragile to leave in the engine compartment to me. I don't have anything to compare it to but the car drives fine when it's not blowed up.
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