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Old 05-23-2018, 01:52 PM   #1226
Harlard
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<-- No-talent assclown
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Herr Harlard am Erstens

1979 242 DL

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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 05-23-2018, 01:55 PM   #1227
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240s are more fun to DRIVE than drag anyways
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Old 05-23-2018, 01:59 PM   #1228
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240s are more fun to DRIVE than drag anyways





















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Old 05-23-2018, 02:54 PM   #1229
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You can have both you know
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1979 Volvo 244DL 5.3/4l80e,8.8,Ms3x goldbox ecu and Mircrosquirt tcu, GTX4202r, 226/230 turbo cam, tbss intake, 11.0@128mph 9psi, 3600lbs with driver
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Old 09-13-2018, 01:17 PM   #1230
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Hooooo boy, lots to catch up on here. First: my heater core blew up. Took advantage of this to install a metric boatload of insulation, a late model HVAC box, lots of wiring cleanup, did away with the resistor pack for the blower motor and replaced it with a PWM controller. On top of that, I swapped in a Turbo headliner, with more insulation on the roof. Found some minor rust around the rear window seal; sanded down, hit it with rust converter, then primer. Car was more livable during the summer, as the interior was significantly cooler under the many days of 90-100 degree weather and hot turbo engine bay.





























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Old 09-13-2018, 01:19 PM   #1231
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I miss this car.
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simple...just throw the redblock in the trash and install, well, almost anything modern

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Yet Asher here went with...
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Old 09-13-2018, 01:40 PM   #1232
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Next order of business: wheels. While living in the city and having only street parking led to some mishaps. Plus I wasn't happy with the color of the wheel centers and the finish had gotten tarnished over time. Broke out the winter wheels and got my ass to work. Sent centers in for recoat in slightly brighter/yellower gold with a thick clear coat. Lips were sanded with 150->220->400->800->1000->1500->2000->3000, followed by compound. For the really bad stuff I used angle grinder polishing wheels to flatten out the material. Final buff was done with Blue Magic Polish on a hard cotton wheel, and sealed with Chemical Guys Max Wheel Guard. Jury is out on whether Chemical Guys actually works. Bought it along with a bunch of other detailing supplies from them and have been somewhat disappointed by the results so far.








































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Old 09-13-2018, 01:40 PM   #1233
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I miss this car.
I miss u boo.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:02 PM   #1234
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Looks so good! Did the better insulation in the dash and roof help with noise? I have been trying to figure out what thickness to get and where to put it? I mean the entire cabin is desirable, but not necessarily cost effective. Excited to see it all in person! Sounds like you and the other local TBrickers need to come down/up and break in the new house. The Wife would string us all up if we raided the house now as we're all still in boxes.
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-My car: White 1991 244, 330k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 200k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Virgos, tow hitch
-PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: EJ205, 5MT, 120k miles, Perrin TBE
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:12 PM   #1235
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Looks good man. What deadeneer you used ?
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Don’t bother, I would literally rather throw them away than give you the pleasure. I will never sell to you.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:17 PM   #1236
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Engine bay noise was drastically reduced. Wind and driveline noise are the biggest sources for my car, and I am still researching what can be done as far as door gaskets. Driveline...I'm not sure. Probably a new driveshaft.


I covered 30-50% of bare metal with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO

Then as close to 100% coverage with this on top of the film-backed butyl:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7Z262/

You could go with way thicker foam, but used this due to space constraints. I'll get the really thick stuff for the back of the cabin and trunk.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:25 PM   #1237
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Couple things happened next:

1 - massive blowby. WTF I thinks to myself. 15 PSI low on #1. Pulled head, found some scoring on the #1 cylinder wall (eventually found some compressor wheel debris in the intercooler, so I'm attributing the damage to that. Gave the unit a good rinse with thinner until nothing else was left inside). Evened out pistons, filled pistons with oil, left them in place for a week. All leaked the same. Found that a couple valves were leaking, so I fixed those. Found a broken retainer, so I upgraded from the EMPI stuff that RSI used to the much stouter-looking Bugpack brand. Reasembled, re-tested compression. Everything is good again. Blowby hasn't happened again so

2 - Clutch was killing my leg. Tate donated a 5/8" Wilwood compact master Cylinder. One brake hardline, one hardline to -3AN fitting later, and the clutch it much nicer to use. Bite point has a lot of room, and the firewall doesn't groan anymore. Win.

3 - Installed some BNE comfort torque rods. They are comfy.




























Last edited by Harlard; 09-13-2018 at 02:30 PM..
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:40 PM   #1238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Engine bay noise was drastically reduced. Wind and driveline noise are the biggest sources for my car, and I am still researching what can be done as far as door gaskets. Driveline...I'm not sure. Probably a new driveshaft.


I covered 30-50% of bare metal with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO

Then as close to 100% coverage with this on top of the film-backed butyl:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7Z262/

You could go with way thicker foam, but used this due to space constraints. I'll get the really thick stuff for the back of the cabin and trunk.
I been using Dynamat/Dynaliner on my stuff with excellent results but **** adds up with too many cars. I think I will try it on the Amazon.

For door gaskets I been playing around with Mercedes seals, thick rubber covered with felt, w124 era. Doors close with a little extra force. It fits but I am yet to drive with it since car is down and I need to get a 16v in it etc Wind factor is big on the 240s. windshield especially

keep up the good twerk
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:42 PM   #1239
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Next: Come June after the last IPD Garage Sale, my buddies and I were discussing the issues I have been having with boost control. We determined that either the turbine wheel on the GTX is too small, or the internal gate wasn't enough, or the ATP turbine housing may not be doing my engine any favors. I decided to do a proof of concept by buying an Ebay 3071, and to put an eBay external gate; the same that Homer is using. Also swapped on some Siemens Deka 80s.

Oh yeah, I also swapped a 160A DR44 alternator. The Bosch 100A off a 940 was starting to let me down.

Impressions:

1. The turbo, while advertised as a "3071" (this is going strictly by measuring the wheels) is actually an odd hybrid of a Garrett 30 series turbine, with a Borgwarner S200 compressor. Spools about the same as the GTX2860R did. I'll get a nicer turbo in due time. So far it has given me no problems.
2. The wastegate is another story altogether The valve got seized to the stem halfway into a trackday. I replaced it with a genuine TiAL 38mm. Added a little supertrapp muffler to keep things civil.
3. I need to revise my fuel pump wiring again. Injector duty cycle is at 75%...I highly doubt the car is making 350whp right now.

















This thing had me spoiled. I need to have my Recaros redone soon…


Last edited by Harlard; 09-13-2018 at 10:27 PM..
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:43 PM   #1240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
I been using Dynamat/Dynaliner on my stuff with excellent results but **** adds up with too many cars. I think I will try it on the Amazon.

For door gaskets I been playing around with Mercedes seals, thick rubber covered with felt, w124 era. Doors close with a little extra force. It fits but I am yet to drive with it since car is down and I need to get a 16v in it etc Wind factor is big on the 240s. windshield especially

keep up the good twerk
Thanks for the tip. That's really good to know.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:52 PM   #1241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Thanks for the tip. That's really good to know.
just the tip and only for a second

it's actually black




and tan


just quickly installed on a wagon to show you






stock on bottom. The "yellow portion" is what faces out of the car


to better illustrate how much goes between body and car
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:01 PM   #1242
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This all brings me back to today. I'm still fighting a few issues:

1. Driveline still makes an irritating grumble at 3000 RPM in all gears (not in neutral). Could be the trans, could be the driveshaft. I don't know. Had to replace tailshaft bushings in the T-5 twice already, as the slip yoke is hogging it out

2. Need to replace spherical bearings on the front of the lower trailing arms. They have developed some play. Part's sitting, but there are other projects in the garage taking up space.

3. Alternator is still not perfect. I'm going to run an external voltage sensing lead to the regulator. Between the high wattage headlamp bulbs, 590W stereo, higher current blower motor, and the electric fan, the upgraded alt is barely cutting it, even though it should be supplying way more than enough juice. My power and grounds are both 4Ga so they should be plenty...

4. Getting some uneven brake pressure on my front brakes. Going to try bleeding again before I fire the parts cannon. Both brakes release freely and there is nothing loose in the suspension. I also aligned it recently. This brings me to....

5. Strut inserts make noise when traveling over uneven surfaces (ruts, small potholes). I have checked every fastener in the front suspension. Everything is tight. No play anywhere. No idea what the problem is at this point. Doesn't seem to be hurting the inserts, so I'll keep on rocking them I guess.

6. Wiring to fuel pump: Gonna have to revise the routing and fusing for this. It's running at 12V when the alternator puts out 14.5v. More to come there...

On a positive note, I got some new tires to replace the 595s. Decent cheap tire, but after using cheap tires in 240s for the past 12 years, something had to give. Bought some 225/45R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4Ss. The car (as a surprise to no-one) instantly got quieter and rode WAAAY nicer than ever before. Kinda wish I had gone for 245/40s, but with the offset of the Style 42s, there isn't much room in the rear arches to clear. They look decently meaty and I'm sure they will be plenty grippy, at least for a while:



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Old 09-13-2018, 06:38 PM   #1243
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Are you on Koni's? On my Koni's, I have to periodically retightened the cap on the strut tube that holds the strut insert in. It will loosen enough so that there's a small amount of play that shows up as a clunky sound over stuff. Might be what you're encountering?

I have basically the same Michelin's on my wagon and they're dope AF. Best non-slick tires out there I think.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:41 PM   #1244
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They truly do everything!

As for the gland nuts, no, they are tight. I can't get the slightest bit of movement...
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:58 PM   #1245
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Holy smokes! What an update! Me I went drag racing once a couple months ago in my 548 thousand mile 90 745 did 15.3. That's about it. Ohh and fixing this free junker 240 wagon, always fun!
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:56 PM   #1246
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let me know how those tires work out over the months.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:13 PM   #1247
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Looking good!

Favorite pic:


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Old 09-13-2018, 10:11 PM   #1248
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Nice updates! Good work.

What is your driveshaft setup? 1pc / 2pc? Adapter?
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:34 PM   #1249
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It's a modded 2 piece with a 940 center support. Diff is nosed down 1.5 degrees from the output shaft.
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:19 AM   #1250
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Check the runout on the driveshaft tube itself. The local shop here, been around for ages, found a bend in my old shaft so they retubed it. Had a low rumble even with new joints and bearing, even after 3 return visits. Apparently they couldn't grasp what I was telling them when I said that even if it balances out, having .050" of runout leads to vibrations, since it isn't really straight. Fresh shaft from the yard, issues went away. The fact it's hogging out the bushing really makes me wonder about that being an issue.
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