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Old 10-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #1
Karl Buchka
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Default Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

Ok guys, here's a set of instructions for the installation of the wasted spark boards. We're focusing pretty heavily on the installation of the board itself. There are far too many combinations of ignition modules and coils to provide comprehensive instructions on that part of the project. The disclaimer is basically this: Some brain power required, some assembly required, batteries not included. It would be much appreciated if people could post some instructions and impressions relating to the specific parts they used for their installs.

Read this entire post thoroughly and completely before posting any questions.

Your shipment should include the following items:
  • 1x Wasted spark conversion PCB
  • 1x Mounting screw
  • 1x Plastic mounting washer
1. Directions for installation
The conversion board has been designed to be mounted inside the EZK box. On 240's the EZK box is mounted on the front right corner of the firewall, right above the foot well. On 740's and 940's it is mounted under the dash, above the throttle pedal.

Remove the EZK box from the car, and using a torx screwdriver, remove the four screws on the end of the case and the three screws around the connector. This should allow you to open the housing of the EZK box and gain access to the circuit board itself.

The conversion board has 8 labeled solder pads. The four pads labeled "5v", "GND", "Out", and "VR" need to be tied to the four labeled points on the EZK board [fig 1]. "VR" goes to pin 7 of the LM2903 IC. If you tin the leg of the IC you can easily attach a wire to it. The "Out" pin is actually intended for pin 16 of the main connector, but we find soldering it to the indicated resistor leg makes for a cleaner installation. If you want to solder your wire directly onto pin 16, feel free to do so. The 5v and GND supply points should be self explanatory. Make sure you don't reverse them. That would be bad. We recommend potting all the wire-to-PCB connections with hot glue to secure the wires from vibration.

The two pins labeled 1-4 and 2-3 are the new logic-level spark outputs. They need to come out of the box and go to the proper pins on your power stage/coil. If your car is not equipped with EGR you can piggyback on those pins, or you can just drill a hole in the box to pass the wires through.

Using the supplied screw and mounting washer, attach the board to the body of the main EZK connector [fig 1]. Depending on clearance to the housing, it may be necessary to mount the board in an inverted fashion.

We recommend the use Bosch Motorsport 2x2 wasted spark ignition coil (part #: 0 221 503 407). This is the only ignition coil we have found with documented dwell characteristics that match the built-in EZK dwell. The stock ignition module has one output stage, but since the wasted spark system requires two outputs you can either install an additional stock ignition module or replace it with a multi-channel equivalent (eg. Bosch 0 227 100 203, Volvo 960).

A sample wiring diagram is shown in [fig 2].

It is important to note that these parts are simply suggestions. You are free to use any suitable combination of ignition modules and coils.
2. Adjustable hard-cut rev limit (experimental)
NOTE: This feature is considered experimental. This means we don't guarantee it will work well, or even at all. It means use at your own risk and we are not liable for any damage caused by its operation. Basically don't be an idiot.

Your wasted spark conversion also comes with an experimental hard-cut rev limit/launch control/flat shift feature. In essence it allows you to hold the engine at any rpm, even whilst applying full throttle. This should enable more consistent launches from a standing start. It is important to note that this is not an "anti-lag" function since ignition timing is not being retarded.

Recommended wiring diagrams for the arm and set features are shown in [fig 3]. The dash-mounted set switch should ideally be momentary and the clutch switch must close to ground as the clutch is depressed.

It is important to note that the launch control feature will be completely disabled by simply not connecting anything to the set and arm pads.
3. Tachometer options
Depending on how you have the system wired, there are a couple of different ways to drive the tachometer.

The first (and arguably easier) method works if you have left the stock power stage and wiring intact. Simply move any wires currently connected to the stock coil's two spade terminals to the "85" and "86" terminals of an automotive relay. To keep the relay from clicking you should open the body of the relay and remove the contactor assembly.

If you have chosen to remove or modify the stock wiring, then driving the tachometer can most easily be done by building a circuit similar to the one listed in the MS-Extra manual under "Option for High Voltage tacho" (http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#tachoout). The base of the transistor should be connected to the stock EZK spark output pin. Note that this solution uses the same modified automotive relay as mentioned earlier.

--------------------


Figure 1: Preferred connection points inside the EZK box. Note the multiple 5v and Ground suggestions.


Figure 2: Suggested ignition module wiring.


Figure 3: Suggested launch control wiring.
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Last edited by Karl Buchka; 10-28-2011 at 05:26 PM..
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:16 PM   #2
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Since Im going to use Toyota Cops with built in Ignitors is there going to be issue with dwell there?
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas240 View Post
Since Im going to use Toyota Cops with built in Ignitors is there going to be issue with dwell there?
No there won't be, the miata guys have been using them in a wasted spark config for like 4 years now

I understand though that LS coils WILL NOT work as they require longer dwell than a wasted spark config can provide. (for those who are thinking about that)
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindowsBreakerG4 View Post
No there won't be, the miata guys have been using them in a wasted spark config for like 4 years now

I understand though that LS coils WILL NOT work as they require longer dwell than a wasted spark config can provide. (for those who are thinking about that)
I've been led to believe that LS1 coils will work perfectly fine. What dwell do they require?
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:53 PM   #5
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I'll provide an (un)educated guess and say no, it won't.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
I'll provide an (un)educated guess and say no, it won't.
cool beans
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:53 AM   #7
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So for the tachometer you suggest we do this?:

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Old 10-22-2011, 01:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surre_sprett View Post
So for the tachometer you suggest we do this?:

if you leave the stock power stage and wiring all in place this circuit isn't necessary.

i have been running a dummy coil in place of the stock coil for my tach signal since the installation of the beta buchka motorsports electronic engineering super happy fun time luxury A+++ wasted spark conversion board.


so that is over 3 months (over 4000miles) no glitches what so ever
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fidel View Post
if you leave the stock power stage and wiring all in place this circuit isn't necessary.

i have been running a dummy coil in place of the stock coil for my tach signal since the installation of the beta buchka motorsports electronic engineering super happy fun time luxury A+++ wasted spark conversion board.


so that is over 3 months (over 4000miles) no glitches what so ever
Thats bad ass.. Now to hide the coil some where
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:22 AM   #10
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Yes, that's the one. The stock spark output goes in place of the "MS PCB" in that diagram.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #11
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Here is the pinout on the 0 221 503 407 unit:



and the 0 227 100 203 unit is pinned out as (the unit is used to run 3 sets of wasted spark cylinders):

Pin 1-#1 negative coil
Pin 2-#1 Input
Pin 3-#2 negative coil
Pin 4-ground
Pin 5-#2 Input
Pin 6-#3 negative coil
Pin 7-#3 Input

This should be the setup using these two parts:

Out From EZK: -> Into 203:____ Out From 203: -> Into 407:
1-4 output -------> Pin 2 _________ Pin 1 -------> Pin 3
2-3 output -------> Pin 7 _________ Pin 6 -------> Pin 1

Pretty picture:

Photobucket

I'm assuming pin 3 & 5 of the 203 unit won't be used to run any cylinders. Also, "Switched 12+", I mean 12+ when cranking too.

Karl looked it over, and thinks it looks right, but if somebody sees something wrong with it, please point it out.

Paul
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy1 View Post
Here is the pinout on the 0 221 503 407 unit:



and the 0 227 100 203 unit is pinned out as (the unit is used to run 3 sets of wasted spark cylinders):

Pin 1-#1 negative coil
Pin 2-#1 Input
Pin 3-#2 negative coil
Pin 4-ground
Pin 5-#2 Input
Pin 6-#3 negative coil
Pin 7-#3 Input

This should be the setup using these two parts:

Out From EZK: -> Into 203:____ Out From 203: -> Into 407:
1-4 output -------> Pin 2 _________ Pin 1 -------> Pin 3
2-3 output -------> Pin 7 _________ Pin 6 -------> Pin 1

Pretty picture:

Photobucket

I'm assuming pin 3 & 5 of the 203 unit won't be used to run any cylinders. Also, "Switched 12+", I mean 12+ when cranking too.

Karl looked it over, and thinks it looks right, but if somebody sees something wrong with it, please point it out.

Paul
I'm just curious if this is the definitive correct wiring for running the setup or is this for Launch control? All the credit to Karl for the instructions, but I'm a visual guy too.

Also, if I chose to wire it this way(sans launch control), do I follow directions for the dummy coil, or for the alternate MS tach signal.

Pardon the dumb question, but where is the best switchable 12v connection for this install?

Sorry, I'm just not very electronic savvy.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy1 View Post
Here is the pinout on the 0 221 503 407 unit:



and the 0 227 100 203 unit is pinned out as (the unit is used to run 3 sets of wasted spark cylinders):

Pin 1-#1 negative coil
Pin 2-#1 Input
Pin 3-#2 negative coil
Pin 4-ground
Pin 5-#2 Input
Pin 6-#3 negative coil
Pin 7-#3 Input

This should be the setup using these two parts:

Out From EZK: -> Into 203:____ Out From 203: -> Into 407:
1-4 output -------> Pin 2 _________ Pin 1 -------> Pin 3
2-3 output -------> Pin 7 _________ Pin 6 -------> Pin 1

Pretty picture:

Photobucket

I'm assuming pin 3 & 5 of the 203 unit won't be used to run any cylinders. Also, "Switched 12+", I mean 12+ when cranking too.

Karl looked it over, and thinks it looks right, but if somebody sees something wrong with it, please point it out.

Paul
This is the exact schematic I used to wire up my WS board & Bosch Motorsport coil. She wouldn't fire (apparently she was firing at BDC ) as shown....had to reverse the 1-4 and 2-3 outputs to the ignitor, and then success

I'm going to 100% cross check this schematic against my install (the quadruple check).....but unless those WS board outputs are actually swapped (internal to Karl's board) then something is wrong as shown above. I'll report my findings.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
This is the exact schematic I used to wire up my WS board & Bosch Motorsport coil. She wouldn't fire (apparently she was firing at BDC ) as shown....had to reverse the 1-4 and 2-3 outputs to the ignitor, and then success

I'm going to 100% cross check this schematic against my install (the quadruple check).....but unless those WS board outputs are actually swapped (internal to Karl's board) then something is wrong as shown above. I'll report my findings.
I had to flip my wires as well when I did my install, I chocked it up to I messed up and hooked it up backwards somewhere and just switched the wires.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
This is the exact schematic I used to wire up my WS board & Bosch Motorsport coil. She wouldn't fire (apparently she was firing at BDC ) as shown....had to reverse the 1-4 and 2-3 outputs to the ignitor, and then success

I'm going to 100% cross check this schematic against my install (the quadruple check).....but unless those WS board outputs are actually swapped (internal to Karl's board) then something is wrong as shown above. I'll report my findings.
OK, a status update.

The previous post wiring diagram by Mallory checks out....the 203 Ignition module is pinned out correctly. I can't find any verification for the BOSCH 2x2 407 coil......but at that point in the conversion it's moot. Worst case, the primary coil terminals 1 and 3 are opposite to the wasted spark pairs 1-4 and 2-3 as shown in the subject schematic.

In short, my conversion was temporarily wired, ran, but was (is) gutless. I had to flip the signals from Karl's board, and the car fired right up. However it had a slight miss while idling, but then when driving in my neighborhood the car is completely gutless.....I had to drop her into 1st gear to get it to limp up the hill to my home. I tested 2 each of the 407 coils, 2 each of the 203 modules, even 2 complete sets of plug wires.....all with the same result. The wasted spark board was installed in a 94 Goldbox EZK 207 which came from a well running drivetrain donor so it is not the issue. The wiring was triple checked to confirm there were no errors, and I even ohmed out all of the wires used for the temporary setup and they all read in single digit resistance. The connecting wires between the WS board and the EZK connecting points are all ohmed out and there is continuity everywhere on both sides of the PCB at the attachment points.

I disconnected the standard ignition module in my 92 (un-pinned the ground and used it for my 203 module). From reading early posts in this thread, it has been declared that the original coil & ignition module wiring can be removed as the wasted spark requires none of these inputs. Of course I had no tach during the test as I wanted to validate function first before wiring for the tach.

As another check, I disconnected the WS board outputs, and with my original stock coil & ignition module/wiring reinstalled with the 207 gold box EZK, and it functions normally.

Suggestions? I know many in this thread went the MITSU/Miata parts route, but I'd like to hear from those who used the Bosch 407 coil and the 203 ignition module, and if you made any deviations.

And yes, I've already chatted with Karl and he's provided a couple checks (already done), but he can't do more for obvious reasons.....he's done enough for us already
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
OK, a status update.

As another check, I disconnected the WS board outputs, and with my original stock coil & ignition module/wiring reinstalled with the 207 gold box EZK, and it functions normally.
The latest.....the above statement is FALSE contrary to what I found at first. Driving around on that EZK box sans Buchkaspark resulted in a running vehicle which is setting CEL's, albeit with mostly normal performance. It seems to have an occasional misfire. I'm convinced my son buggered up the EZK when he landed those 3 wires on hardware (chips & the spark resistor).

We will start again with another EZK and reland the WS board, and hopefully we get full function this time around
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:33 AM   #17
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Switched to Bosch powerstage.






Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy1 View Post

This should be the setup using these two parts:

Out From EZK: -> Into 203:____ Out From 203: -> Into 407:
1-4 output -------> Pin 2 _________ Pin 1 -------> Pin 3
2-3 output -------> Pin 7 _________ Pin 6 -------> Pin 1

Paul
This doesn't jive with the BTI indicated layout for connections between PS and coil - I wired mine following your layout & had to reverse the coil wires for it to run. It would seem I/O pins 2&1 are for 2,3 cyl, and 7&6 are for 1,4 cyl




Edit: Nevermind, the inputs from the board to the powerstage are reversed between the two schematics - that would account for it. My mistake was using your schematic as the wiring reference
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:26 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting that Lawrence. I just added a section on tachometer driving.
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:17 PM   #19
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any info on where to source that dummy coil substitute?
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:37 PM   #20
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Read the section I just added.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:07 PM   #21
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Excellent article, Excellent product.

I've been on board with the second test board in operation. I'd like to add my installation notes.

Another option for an ignition module (with built in 12v 4 cyl tachometer output):

Mitsubishi J702T Ignition module, coming off 90-98? mazda miatas (1.6l being the most common). This module works great, and just solder up 1 wire for a full functioning volvo tach.

Also the coil packs off same said car work perfectly, I made 300whp on them, 500dollarmatt made 360whp.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:07 PM   #22
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Ok I see people doing it so I guess the miata people () are full of crap I see people running wasted spark with LS coils.

LS1 Coils seem to be 5.6-8MS depending on who you ask :P supposedly factory is around 6 though. It also seems that the dwell varries based on which LS coil it is (IE LS1 has diffnerent dwell than LS2 Coils)

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html
Quote:
A dwell figure of 5.5-6.0ms is advised for LS1 coils.
A dwell figure of 5.0-5.5ms is advised for LS2 coils.
Sorry I didn't mean to drag this off topic, YMMV.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:24 PM   #23
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Is there enough dead output pins on the ECU to run the waste spark through the plug instead drilling a hole in the case?

Paul
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:43 PM   #24
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Is there enough dead output pins on the ECU to run the waste spark through the plug instead drilling a hole in the case?

Paul
I think there is actually
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:44 PM   #25
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As I mentioned in the original post, a non EGR EZK will have enough free pins. Beyond that, I'm not sure.
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