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Old 08-28-2010, 04:46 PM   #1
turbovulvo
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Default LH2.4 swap, Speedometer

I plan on installing the new motor this week into the car and will be wiring up the LH 2.4, (i am converting my 88 from 2.2 to 2.4). I have a lh 2.4 gauge cluster. I have the speed sensor that measures the 2.4 flexplate. I have both of those installed (2.4 flexplate and speed sensor) Do I need to run a wire from pin 34 to some kind of sensor on the dif to make it idle normal or is that only for k-jet cars?

Getting so close to having a DD volvo for the first time!

Thanks
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Old 08-28-2010, 05:21 PM   #2
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No, you need to get the pig tail harness the runs from the cluster over to the ECU from an LH 2.4 240. That is where the ECU gets its speed signal from. If you look at that harness that is in your 88 it has a 4 wire connector at the ECU end. The LH 2.4 harness you are installing has a 6 pin connector at that location. The extra 2 wires are the speed signal connection.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:30 PM   #3
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Here is what the connectors on my harness look like. Im not sure what I have going on.





Any help for this would be appreciated
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:56 PM   #4
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Or you can just throw the idle control motor in the garbage! I NEVER use them, they suck, clutter up the engine bay, and get in the way when doing future maintenance. All you need to do is cap off the air inlet on the intake pipe, and the intake manifold. use rubber caps with clamps. And set the idle how you like it using the LH 2.2 throttle body. I use the idle set screw to set the idle around 800 rpm when its hot. When cold it will idle lower. Also you get back the black CO mix screw for fine tuning the idle. And of course readjust the linkage and TPS switch while you are at it.

I also like how its idle low when cold started, so the engine turns lower rpms until proper oil pressure is made. With the idle control motor the engine races up right away to 1500 or 2000 rpms, and slowly idles down to whatever idle it was set to. That last statement is negligible for my argument but I like it to not race up so high when cold. Not my forte.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:04 PM   #5
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Slowbowdan, this will fix the issue with the idle going crazy after the car gets revved up on LH 2.4?
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:09 PM   #6
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big black plug is EZK
big white is LH
small black is main (white 6 pin) relay
small white plug is dash connections (alt, oil, start, tach, ect ect ect) looks like its a non ABS connector, so -93 240?
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:27 PM   #7
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For Lh 2.4 the speed sensor from the diff tells the ECU when the car is slowing down and speeding up. I ran mine without that and it does throw a code, but seemed to run just fine. Others have said you have to have that hooked up and it won't run right without it. The crank sensor is not the speed sensor.

The speed sensor input to the ECU comes from the dash speedometer like tomanyturbos said. You can't just hook it from the rear speed sensor it has to come from the LH 2.4 dash as it adjusts the impedance there with something in the cluster. I'm not exactly sure what but a resistor or something.

Slobodan, he can't adjust his CO screw on his LH 2.4 AMM as it doesn't have that...That's lh2.2 and he's going to upgrade to 2.4...

So the speed sensor in the rear has a couple wires that run to the dash and then from there to the ECU. The crank sensor on the flexplate tells the puters where the motor is and that controls spark and fuel timing. The rear diff speed sensor tells the puter when your slowing down and it will then cut fuel coasting above a certain speed if the TPS is also closed. If you don't have the rear speed sensor hooked up to the puters it won't cut fuel as much when coasting. I saw this on my wideband as I did eventually hook up the rear diff speed sensor to the puter from the speedo of course. With it hooked up you should probably get a little better mileage.
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Old 09-01-2010, 03:50 PM   #8
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I took some more pictures today to see what I have. I have a 4 plug dash harness with this plug.



The plug on the 2.4 harness is this one.



As you can see I have the matching plug from the dash harness of the 2.4 car.

I do not however know what I need to do from here. Do I cut my 2.2 dash harness and try to match up the 11 plug harness from lh 2.4? Do I search for a 6 pin lh 2.4 engine harness and pigtail? Can you make your own pigtail?

Here is the back of my 2.4 speedometer cluster.



When it comes to the electronic stuff, Im lost. Sorry If you guys are getting annoyed.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #9
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any input? would it be easier to find a different 2.4 harness?
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #10
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any input? would it be easier to find a different 2.4 harness?
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:50 PM   #11
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What you need to do is get a roll of painters tape, a sharpie, a 6 pack of beer, and a multimeter and start pinning wires out and labeling them. Please post back with the results.

You need a good wiring diagram that say the ECU and ICU pin number and wire colors. They might not be perfectly correlated with the diagram, but should be almost the same colors as in your diagram depending on which one you have.

I helped a tbricker that cut the entire bundle coming out of his firewall on his 740 and we just pinned it out with a wiring diagram, multimeter set on Ohms, and labeled each wire.

The black connector is missing the relay.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:43 AM   #12
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Where could I find one of these good wiring diagrams. I have the bentley manual but the wiring diagrams seem really small, as if they were rezised to fit on a page. Volvo is going to print the diagrams they have out for me tomorrow. I cant find the diagram on Vadis.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovulvo View Post
Where could I find one of these good wiring diagrams. I have the bentley manual but the wiring diagrams seem really small, as if they were rezised to fit on a page. Volvo is going to print the diagrams they have out for me tomorrow. I cant find the diagram on Vadis.
A Volvo Green Book. I have one here for a 1990 240. If it has the section you need, I'll scan it a post it to this thread.
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:11 PM   #14
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You can use the cruise control output on the back of a 2.4 cluster for the idle.
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:51 PM   #15
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Yah, if you could scan it 2manyturbos, that would be really helpful. thanks
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovulvo View Post
Where could I find one of these good wiring diagrams. I have the bentley manual but the wiring diagrams seem really small, as if they were rezised to fit on a page. Volvo is going to print the diagrams they have out for me tomorrow. I cant find the diagram on Vadis.
www.k-jet.org
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:03 PM   #17
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Does anyone have a pin diagram for the 93 240 dash to engine harness connector? The 11 pin connector.
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:40 PM   #18
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Got a 9 pin harness from the jy today. Does anyone have a pinout for the 88 240 dash to engine harness connector. It is a 4 pin connector and has 3 wires going to it. Red, Red yellow, and Red black. Thanks
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:42 AM   #19
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I am in the same boat as you. I have no spark and it is either my wiring from the 4 pin connector (old lh2.2) to the new 9 pin
(lh2.4) or my rpm sensor on top of the bellhousing.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:23 PM   #20
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Be sure to check. The 89 and newer body harness has a different pin out vs. 88 and older. The difference carries over to the switch. IOW, if you put an 89 + switch into an 88 and older car, it won't run due to a no spark condition. Different pins on the switch receive power in the start and run positions. That's probably what is going on with camelwideswagon.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:27 PM   #21
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what switch are you talking about?
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Old 09-09-2010, 03:05 PM   #22
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:33 PM   #23
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So if you are converting to from lh 2.2 to lh 2.4, you need to grab a newer ignition switch?
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:05 AM   #24
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There are a few critical ones that need to be hooked up or it won't run. I used the 89 240 NA lh2.4 harness in my 89 740 with a 93 940 dash harness and fuse panel. I tapped the wire that runs to the starter solenoid for that wire that needs to go to that, done. I ran the one yellow red wire to the fuse panel and hooked them to switched power. It runs the oxygen sensor. The other bigger red/yellow wires runs to the fuel pump to run the pump. The blue power while cranking goes to the ignition switch and you might have to swap that out on your older 240, not sure, toomany turbos might know that. The speed signal wire that goes to the speedo is not critical to run, but is recomended to make the car idle correctly. If not hooked up it might idle high sometimes I've heard. Mine idled fine when I didn't have it hooked up. What I noticed, on my wideband, is the Puter wouldn't cut fuel at decel like it would when it was hooked up. Under the hood you have the main power to the harness it has a fuse at the end that connects to the power connector there by the battery and it's always hot... Otherwise your ECU will forget all it's learned.... The grounds on the intake at the bolts that hold the fuel rail in are critical. Once you get it all hooked up you can turn the key on and put the test port thing in number two and hold the button for a second and it should flash back three single flashes meaning all good. Basically check the codes first thing under the hood there. Check port 6 also. Two and six are the ECU and the EZK. If you are making your car a turbo car and you are using the NA 240 harness you have to cut the wire that runs to the TPS that is the WOT wire as turbo ECU's don't use that and if you leave it hooked up it will cause your injectors to fire at 100 percent with certain ECU's when you floor it. Also if using turbo low impedance injectors you have to add the resistor pack. Also when you turn the key on the fuel pump relay should click on and the pump should run for a few seconds if it's hooked up right. 2.2 doesn't do that.

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Old 09-10-2010, 12:31 AM   #25
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Very Helpful! Thanks Sbabbs
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