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Old 01-19-2011, 07:13 PM   #51
Xovaan
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Which wire is the wire we cut on the TPS that tells the computers to do a 100% duty cycle at WOT?

Also, could the o2 sensor be the cause of a constantly-fluctuating idle once the car is warmed up?
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:17 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post

If you are making your car a turbo car and you are using the NA 240 harness you have to cut the wire that runs to the TPS that is the WOT wire as turbo ECU's don't use that and if you leave it hooked up it will cause your injectors to fire at 100 percent with certain ECU's when you floor it. Also if using turbo low impedance injectors you have to add the resistor pack. Also when you turn the key on the fuel pump relay should click on and the pump should run for a few seconds if it's hooked up right. 2.2 doesn't do that.
Dear sbabbs

My 1993-240NA2.0 swap to B230FT. When I ignit on,the injector getting very hot.

Should I cut the wire which runs to the TPS??

I check the harness to LH2.4(IGN ON),
pin2:TPS-signal-input(white-yellow::0v).
pin3:TPS-signal-secound-input(white-blue::12v).

Should I cut these 2 wire??

thanks.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:05 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermas View Post
Dear sbabbs

My 1993-240NA2.0 swap to B230FT. When I ignit on,the injector getting very hot.

Should I cut the wire which runs to the TPS??

I check the harness to LH2.4(IGN ON),
pin2:TPS-signal-input(white-yellow::0v).
pin3:TPS-signal-secound-input(white-blue::12v).

Should I cut these 2 wire??

thanks.

The wire from the TPS doesnt relate to the hot injectors. Do you have turbo injectors fitted? with or without the ballast resistors?
The non turbo 240 injectors are high impedance and work without ballast resistors fitted
The turbo injectors are low impedance and need ballast resistors to limit current.

If you use turbo injectors without the ballast resistors you can damage the LH-jetronic box. The injector driver transistor gets damaged and makes the injectors stay open all the time because it closes the circuit when broken. The fix is pretty easy if you are handy with a soldering iron.

About the TPS, only cut the wire that gives the signal for full throttle. Not both.
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:21 PM   #54
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Yes cut the one wire for WOT only, leave the other two as they are needed for telling the ECU when the TPS is closed.

I'll head out to the shop and take a picture of which one to cut in a sec...

Cut the lower one in the pic with the red tester on it. This pic is a pic of the intake manifold upside down, so in your car cut the upper most TPS connector. This means the one closest to the hood.

Don't cut the middle one, that's the power. Don't cut the lower one, that's the one for TPS closed, you need that one. Video to come...


Looking at it from the side at this angle, cut the one there on the left. It's labeled 3 on the black plastic there. The middle is labeled 18 and the one on the right labeled 2.

Simon
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Last edited by sbabbs; 12-04-2011 at 04:26 PM..
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:28 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
The wire from the TPS doesnt relate to the hot injectors. Do you have turbo injectors fitted? with or without the ballast resistors?
The non turbo 240 injectors are high impedance and work without ballast resistors fitted
The turbo injectors are low impedance and need ballast resistors to limit current.

If you use turbo injectors without the ballast resistors you can damage the LH-jetronic box. The injector driver transistor gets damaged and makes the injectors stay open all the time because it closes the circuit when broken. The fix is pretty easy if you are handy with a soldering iron.

About the TPS, only cut the wire that gives the signal for full throttle. Not both.
I swap whole B230FT into my 240(include turbo injectors). when I turn the key to IGN On.

It can't start. and the injector getting hot(the injector stay open all the time).

And then, I exchange the LH-jetronic box to the original 2.0NA-box.

But the injectors still stay open all the time and hot.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:13 AM   #56
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We'll I know for a fact if you hook up a lh 2.0 ECU jetronic box to a lh 2.2 or 2.4 car you will fry the ECU. I did this just last week...

The LH 2.0 has different wiring for the AMM and it will smoke it because of this. You can repin your AMM wiring and use a LH 2.2 AMM with 2.0 but you have to change the wires first or you'll smoke your ECU..

As far as why your injectors are staying open and not working properly, I'd check your wiring. Did you change out to the B230ft wiring harness? Was it a 740 harness? Best thing to use is a 240 Non turbo lh2.4 harness for this type of swap...

Simon
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:41 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
We'll I know for a fact if you hook up a lh 2.0 ECU jetronic box to a lh 2.2 or 2.4 car you will fry the ECU. I did this just last week...

The LH 2.0 has different wiring for the AMM and it will smoke it because of this. You can repin your AMM wiring and use a LH 2.2 AMM with 2.0 but you have to change the wires first or you'll smoke your ECU..

As far as why your injectors are staying open and not working properly, I'd check your wiring. Did you change out to the B230ft wiring harness? Was it a 740 harness? Best thing to use is a 240 Non turbo lh2.4 harness for this type of swap...

Simon
I'm sorry for the words "2.0NA-box".

My car is 1993-240GL-2.0L-NA.

Does this car equip with LH 2.4 system?
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:48 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermas View Post
I swap whole B230FT into my 240(include turbo injectors). when I turn the key to IGN On.

It can't start. and the injector getting hot(the injector stay open all the time).

And then, I exchange the LH-jetronic box to the original 2.0NA-box.

But the injectors still stay open all the time and hot.
I guess that you have fried your ECU injector driver transistor. Replace with TIP-122.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:26 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by OttoB View Post
I guess that you have fried your ECU injector driver transistor. Replace with TIP-122.
OttoB, I think that I have already burned the ECU.

my condition just like this thread.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...ghlight=TIP122

Do you know which one is TIP-122 in ECU of this picture??


I'll go to buy TIP-122 and resistor tomorrow.OOPS:
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:05 PM   #60
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I remember it is the on at left, but check this first:

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh....php?p=3947678
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:41 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OttoB View Post
I remember it is the on at left, but check this first:

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh....php?p=3947678
OttoB.

I have already repaired the 937-ECU with a new TIP-122 transistor($0.5).

The injector work perfectly.

Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:34 PM   #62
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sorry to revive an old thread. i'm converting from 2.2-2.4 right now and i have a question.

You mention a few times a red/black wire that goes to 12v switched. I have the same plug in the picture but no red/black wire.... it's all hooked up correctly from what i see in this thread but cranks, has fuel, no start... help?


Last edited by Tfest; 04-07-2013 at 08:12 PM..
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:45 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Here is a goofy viedo of the surging idle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8HCfLTIBKs

Do you think the speedo wire disconnected would really cause this? Or is it something else? All the sensors to the computers including MAF, TPS, and Temp sensor have good connections. TPS and Temp give proper readings. Havent checked MAF values at the computer yet. I think its 2.4 not knowing what to do with 850 Turbo injectors. I know my car did some whacky idling with different injectors than stock.


Did you ever resolve this? Couldn't any reference to it in your later thread

Sounds similar to the idle surge I have with LH2.2/EZK117 - I was considering converting to LH2.4, assuming that would fix it....
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:40 PM   #64
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:37 AM   #65
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To close out my question, my issue with idle surge was caused by voltage drop to the ignition coil supply side. Rewired, problem gone. Still doing 2.2 - 2.4 conversion parts - gathering phase.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:49 AM   #66
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I ran without my speedo cluster hooked up on a stock 1990 240. I had moments of HIGH idle after freeway speeds. Nothing that caused poor driveability. My conclusion so far is that it will be acceptable enough to run without speedo signal.
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:39 PM   #67
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I figured I'd resurrect this thread and piggyback off of it as my question might help others in the future.

For those with 2.4 with 1030 rear end (I swapped the 1030 in to get cheap gears) and who switch to GPS speedo: what are the option to get speed signal to 2.4 if needed. I read that 2.4 can can have idle issues without speed signal. I think it was mentioned early in this thread about a driveshaft sensor. Anyone know one that meets the 12 pulse constraint?
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