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Old 08-20-2011, 01:37 PM   #51
Mylesofsmyles
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So there isn't yet a clear explanation of what was done to make the 850 bracket bolt to the redblock...isn't the bracket, just sandwiched between, in order to hang the tensioner pulley?

Were new holes drilled in the 850 bracket, to line-up with the redblock bolt holes?
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:55 PM   #52
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I made a new bracket out of 1/4 aluminum that bolts to the block an then bolted the 850 bracket to that with some custom made spacers and a small mod to the 850 bracket. I made two different ones. One for a/c and one without a/c. One consideration is the intake tube, weather its NA or turbo, will have to be modified to fit around the ps pump. If someone wanted to get all of the accessories I could put together the brackets, spacers, fittings, modified pulleys and directions for a pretty good price either with or without a/c. Ill start pricing some of the items out and put a post in the for sale forum.
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Old 08-20-2011, 05:38 PM   #53
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^ Some better pictures of clearance with intake piping would be a large help.

From the pictures, the PS pump doesn't look any more in the way than does on a 740 bracket.

Maybe detailed pictures of the assembly, off the car would clear up my questions.

I do however, really like it.

How long and how punishing have you tested it? Also concerned about the amount of belt on the crank pulley.

Keep us updated!
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Old 08-20-2011, 05:41 PM   #54
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I'm also a little concerned about the amount of contact with the crank pulley.

Also, would the modification of the crank pulley work with both a B230 or a B21/23?

How about using a timing belt cover?
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Old 08-20-2011, 06:07 PM   #55
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One might be able to use a longer belt...

wrap from the crank pulley, over the tensioner, then under the AC, around the alternator and around the PS pump...

Gets a little more contact with the crank pulley
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:06 PM   #56
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I dont have an air intake so I don't know if it interferes or not just a concern. i'm putting together a second one right now. I will post some photos of the assembly and more photos of the parts. my car is a b23 and a timing cover wont fit. you have to trim the crank cover where it comes around the timing gear on the crank so the new pulley clears. I have been running this set up for about 3 weeks and I drive about 70 miles a day to work. As far as pushing it my car is the slowest Volvo in the world so it hasn't been pushed but i haven't had any problems.
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:50 PM   #57
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Like I said...this is a interesting idea; I'd like to see it go further!

Maybe just a couple photos, showing, in general, the clearance around the PS pump and to the radiator...just to get an idea.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:59 PM   #58
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Ok I figured out a solution to increase the belt contact with the crank pulley. I'm going try to get a prototype this weekend along with some photo. I'm also going to install the non-ac version and take some photos of that too.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #59
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A double ribbed belt would do it. Creativity.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:20 AM   #60
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A double ribbed belt would do it. Creativity.
As in, a belt with ribs on both sides?


Then you could route from the Crank, over the tensioner, under the AC pump, to the left of the alternator and around the PS!!!

That's totally what I was thinking of too...

Just googled to see that there is such a thing as a 2 side serpentine belt.

Dayumm, I'd say count me in when this system is figured out.

Last edited by Mylesofsmyles; 08-28-2011 at 02:25 AM.. Reason: grape drank
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:52 AM   #61
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Volvo has used serp belts with ribs on both sides on some of the newer 5 cyl. cars.
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:51 AM   #62
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Volvo has used serp belts with ribs on both sides on some of the newer 5 cyl. cars.
ORLY?

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Old 09-05-2011, 11:50 PM   #63
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Sorry, didn't get it done had to work on my daughters car. Hopefully this weekend i'll get some work done and some photos posted.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:07 AM   #64
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Now that is cool!
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:28 AM   #65
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man i have a 97GLT engine and I think I'm going to do the same thing your doing! besides drilling the water pump pully and making that bracket, do you HAVE to have the ford 4 cylinder waterpump?

Why can't you run the belt this way? Would there be a problem?
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:49 PM   #66
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man i have a 97GLT engine and I think I'm going to do the same thing your doing! besides drilling the water pump pully and making that bracket, do you HAVE to have the ford 4 cylinder waterpump?

Why can't you run the belt this way? Would there be a problem?
Hence double ribbed
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:00 PM   #67
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^

ezactlieee my idearrrrrrrrr
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:01 AM   #68
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Got to be careful if you consider rotating it backwards, all 2000+ alternators I see have 'free-wheeling' if it's rotated backwards, there's a one-way bearing built into the pulley.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:39 AM   #69
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Im not sure of the years but I remember installing the one way type pulleys with the clutches on 5 cyl cars when I was working at the dealer. This was done as a fix for strange noise/vibration that later cars didn't have a problem with because they came with the clutch type pulleys from the factory 2000+.
That said, the clutch pulley can be removed and a normal pulley from and an older car with the same type alt. can be installed so the alternator will rotate backwards.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:40 AM   #70
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Im not sure of the years but I remember installing the one way type pulleys with the clutches on 5 cyl cars when I was working at the dealer. This was done as a fix for strange noise/vibration that later cars didn't have a problem with because they came with the clutch type pulleys from the factory 2000+.
That said, the clutch pulley can be removed and a normal pulley from and an older car with the same type alt. can be installed so the alternator will rotate backwards.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:01 PM   #71
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Hence double ribbed
You don't need a double sided ribbed for that design, check again.

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Old 09-07-2011, 07:33 PM   #72
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You don't need a double sided ribbed for that design, check again.
R you saying the belts are just ribbed for pleasure???

How is the back-side of the belt going to drive the alternator without slippage?
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:59 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T3hw1nn3r View Post
You don't need a double sided ribbed for that design, check again.
Looks like you would (should) for the alternator.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:12 PM   #74
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Quote:
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R you saying the belts are just ribbed for pleasure???

How is the back-side of the belt going to drive the alternator without slippage?
only for hers i need to stop drinking so much.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:32 PM   #75
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Got to be careful if you consider rotating it backwards, all 2000+ alternators I see have 'free-wheeling' if it's rotated backwards, there's a one-way bearing built into the pulley.
If the belt routing is modified similar to my routing (obviously allowing for the WP on the left of motor), the later (00'-) alt is not running backwards, it's designed to run CCW (on the inside of the belt), hence the dual-ribbed belt.



if you use a tensioner AND an idler, you can run it CW, but the belt is longer & now you have an extra pulley to worry about

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