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Old 04-22-2015, 08:00 AM   #251
The Full Banana
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The moral of this story is a lot of spoiled litte rich *******s, who have mommy and daddy cut checks for there whims don't care about people who work hard to pay there bills. Word is they moved to LA to bigger and better things for spoiled brats.
You're representing Lake Michigan poorly. For shame.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:22 AM   #252
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Well, now back on topic......I finally completed the install on my 9 series DD, very very happy with the results thus far! Removed the Goldbox EZK with TLAO chip, and replaced with a bonestocker 92 EZK with Karl's WS board installed. I followed his original recs. and used the BOSCH Motorsports coil and 203 Powerstage. All the details are in my build thread, but a few pics here for the wasted spark cause:







Anyone doing this conversion using the BOSCH 203 powerstage, and having trouble restoring tach ops, PM me and I'll show you how (really simple).

Thanks again to Karl; this is a sweet low cost upgrade that my butt dyno says outperforms my previous ignition controller (which used to miss/buck a bit from 5K up) but the BUCHKA-spark just keeps pulling..... And for those who continually gripe about availability, I see Karl's board turning up in the FS section every couple months.......
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:27 AM   #253
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Originally Posted by pieterveenstra View Post
Just order a wasted spark PCB from BTI..

Good quality and the same price. And most important: items are in stock
The kit even includes a screw in plug






I got also this kind of Wasted Spark card. It seems to have three same wiring connections as Karlś board have, but no ground wiring between EZK-board and WS-card, what I read from the instructions. Is that true?

And what is that round 4-pin plug what comes with the WS-card.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:08 PM   #254
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Made a mounting plate for a fellow redblock driver. Coil fits perfect there and the original coil wires work.



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Old 06-11-2015, 02:29 PM   #255
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Are those LPG injectors to the right of the coil pack?
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Old 06-11-2015, 04:43 PM   #256
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Are those LPG injectors to the right of the coil pack?
yup. forgot the brand, can ask for you. The wasted spark is a nice upgrade when running LPG!
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:04 AM   #257
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what kind of coil is it? VAG?
setup looks good, although i would have painted the plate black as well.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:59 PM   #258
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Just wasted a couple of days on silly assumption, trying to be smart. So just a warning not to try this.

The 960 3 channel ignition amplifier (0 227 100 203) can only do one channel at a time.

I tried to use the spare channel for the rev counter output, but it reduced the input resistance on the other channels so much that I was only getting just over 1V pulses from the wasted spark board and the original ECU. After disconnecting the rev counter output (original drive signal) I am getting sparks but the wasted spark board is still only outputting 4V pulses. Still not starting but have some other things to sort now.

I'm also hoping to use the 360 renix crank sensor, mainly just to prove it works, although I have a hot melt glued 940 concoction in at the moment for elimination purposes.

I'm doing a 360 turbo LH2.4 conversion and wasted spark at the same time so have created a few extra hurdles for myself.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:55 AM   #259
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I'm still scratching my head on this. Turns and farts a bit but no start. Starter does seem a bit slow even with a good battery, may swap it over with the daily, could be a bad joint somewhere. Have seen half a pulse with 5V, otherwise more like 3.4V. VCC solid 5V.

On the channels on the amp, I have used 2 adjacent channels and disconnected the 3rd as per the last post. should I use 2 non-adjacent channels, like 1+3 as per the diagram near the start of this thread?
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:27 PM   #260
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Its alive! Main problem seemed to be the spark banks where round the wrong way. I double checked against the diagrams, seemed to be right but not sure what went wrong, no details on the coil datasheet unfortunately.

Still only seeing just over 3V at new and old spark logic outputs but seems to work. The single spark feed seems to give 5V for first half a pulse and thereafter 3V.

Anyone else measured this?
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:19 PM   #261
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Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
what kind of coil is it? VAG?
setup looks good, although i would have painted the plate black as well.
Looks like a clone of the BOSCH coil I used....the very one Karl recommended way back when.....
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:06 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by TonyS9 View Post
Its alive! Main problem seemed to be the spark banks where round the wrong way. I double checked against the diagrams, seemed to be right but not sure what went wrong, no details on the coil datasheet unfortunately.

Still only seeing just over 3V at new and old spark logic outputs but seems to work. The single spark feed seems to give 5V for first half a pulse and thereafter 3V.

Anyone else measured this?
3v while running measured at the spark output is consistent with what I measured, pulses are too quick to be picked up with a dvom, so I only measured to make sure I had anything there when I was troubleshooting mine.

And if you're using buchka's spark board, a lot of the older ones had the spark outputs switched around, so it wouldn't run unless 1-4 and 2-3 were wired up backwards

But I guess switching your channels at the amplifier would solve that problem as well
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:56 AM   #263
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Is it possible to still buy the wasted spark pcb ?
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:30 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotankshane View Post
3v while running measured at the spark output is consistent with what I measured, pulses are too quick to be picked up with a dvom, so I only measured to make sure I had anything there when I was troubleshooting mine.
I used a picoscope and got the waveform, still looks low to me, stressing the micro? but worked at the time, won't run it again yet for any length of time until I finish the plumbing.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:32 PM   #265
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I used a picoscope and got the waveform, still looks low to me, stressing the micro? but worked at the time, won't run it again yet for any length of time until I finish the plumbing.
I doubt anything's stressed on the board, mine's been running a good while now with less hiccups than the stock system. And I screwed with it for a pretty good while between two different sets of coils, one with a control circuit that was pulled high and the set I have now that gets pulled low, and screwing with dwell for a long time as well. All in all it seems to be a well-made, robust little board.

It survived some water inrusion as well
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:30 AM   #266
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I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:38 AM   #267
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Originally Posted by TonyS9 View Post
I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?
Is your coil signal low reference fed back to a ground inside the ezk or is it grounded to the engine/frame?
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:45 PM   #268
Karl Buchka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyS9 View Post
I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?
The odds of the wasted spark board being behind your idle speed issue is very small.

What frequency of key on-key off causes it to only fire on one bank?
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:40 PM   #269
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Karl,
Do you know where to getr the connectors for the Bosch coilpack and the 203 module?
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:02 AM   #270
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Originally Posted by 5ft24 View Post
Karl,
Do you know where to getr the connectors for the Bosch coilpack and the 203 module?
The Bosch coil uses a standard 3-pin junior power timer connector and the 203 module uses a 7-pin connector of the same series They're available new from Mouser.com.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:35 PM   #271
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1990 740T,
Got my board and installed it. Used pins 14 and 15 of the EZK to feed the ignition signals out, snipped them from the board inside since this one has the electronics for the EGR. those run to a nice 2 pin connector on the left strut tower! no additional wiring needed.
Any suggestions on where to mount the module? I want to keep the original for the tach. I was thinking of getting a heatsink and mounting it near the old one and bolting the module to that. Need to figure out a mount now for the coil as well...
Any and all suggestions welcome
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:39 PM   #272
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ok. Mounted the module, wired it up, even ohmed everything out to make sure I had it all correct. fired it briefly on stock, all good. put relay coil in place of the ignition coil, and put plug wires on coilpack. took forever cranking to get it to start, and when it did, it wouldnt stay running, and was really rough. swapped wires at the coil... backfires... back to the original way. double and triple checked... still runs like ****, if I get it to stay running, i have to hold the throttle open, which is a task of itself... barely touching the throttle and it tries to die... checked spark at the coil itself... very weak and short spark... took voltmeter and checked to make sure when I was able to get it running that I had battery voltage at the coil.. checked my ground while it was running between the block and the module... 0.018 volts...
I checked the inputs, factory, 1-3 and 2-4 for voltage while running... I know they are pulsed, but wanted to see the average. factory was between 0.7 and 0.8, both the wasted spark inputs were between 0.3 and 0.5... Pulled the EZK and made sure I was wired in at the board properly, all was good there as well...
Any suggestions? this is with the 203 module, brand new, and the bosch 407 coil, also brand new...
Thanks
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:46 PM   #273
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Nevermind... I'm a tool...
had the + to the bosch coil connected to the TACH side of the relay... now it's on the power side, and I have a really hot blue spark! didn't fire it, left the wires disconnected... too dark and cold. will get back on it in the morning...
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:36 PM   #274
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ok. so weather is supposed to be heavy rain and cold this morning... temporarily mounted the coil bracket and coil, switched over to waste spark and went for a drive... first thing I noticed is my little hesitation on tip in from idle is gone...cruising nice and smooth, no surprises... several small bursts of boost after it was fully warm, felt a little less "jerky" when it came up on boost... cranked it to 15 PSI and let it fly up my favorite freeway onramp. straight, on dry pavement, I nailed it in 1st. when the boost crossed about 12PSI, it broke the back end loose for about a second then hit 2nd gear. shift wasn't as harsh as before... smoother, no clunk. 2nd to 3rd at 6500 RPM without any breaking up like it was doing with the stock ignition at about 5500 RPM at 15PSI. backed out at 110 in OD and it was still pulling... power didn't feel like it just fell off after about 5000-5500 or so... I'm impressed and will see what mileage changes (If any) I see after my next couple tanks of gas...
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:30 AM   #275
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Is this a dead (NLA) item now? Now that I have a viable EZK116 setup, eliminating the dist/cap/rotor wear items seems like a good idea...

BTI doesn't list it on their website, and reading through this I assume Karl no longer produces the boards?
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