home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > performance & suspension

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-09-2017, 07:32 PM   #1
TurboDenny
Why am I here?
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Default Removing MAF wires from plug.

Currently in the middle of a +t on my '89 244, and I've come to the point of relocating the MAF. Does anyone know how to remove the wires from the plug itself. I'd rather not cut anything if I don't have to.
__________________


Instagram: @itstotesdenny
TurboDenny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2017, 07:35 PM   #2
CAPT_BLOTTO
#Crush It
 
CAPT_BLOTTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kansas City
Default

They make special terminal tools for depinning and repinning connectors. You might have to find the right one that works for that connector.
__________________
Hello My Glorious!

Junkyard Parts request thread!
Mesquite FB page! Constant updates!

Da Yellow Sold | $800 245 | 77 244
CAPT_BLOTTO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2017, 08:26 PM   #3
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

^^ that is the best option, however...

you can also file down a paper clip or some other small pick-like instrument (so it is flat, not round) and carefully deflect the tab that holds the metal contact in the plastic housing.
__________________
-Mike
1998 V70 T5
1979 242 DL+T |Project Thread| |Feedback|
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 11:16 AM   #4
dbarton
Bored Member
 
dbarton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: North of Dallas
Default

The later pins found in LH 2.4 plugs will be more difficult than earlier ones. Earlier ones have only one barb that needs to be pushed in and a simple sharp pick can easily work. Later pins like yours will have two barbs and you must depress both at the same time. It can be hard, but can be done with two sharp picks. The proper tool is shown below for the later type, but not cheap. Generally about $40.
Dave B.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg juniortimer2.jpg (4.1 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg jpt-tool.jpg (27.1 KB, 81 views)
__________________

'84 242ti, still a daily driver, Original and still excellent paint except for the new flat hood, old-school front *because*, B21FT, SDS EFI/MSD IGN, Mitsubishi TD04HL-15G, WC T5 trans, 3.91 rear w/G80 locker, Unitek&ST Phase One cam, Cooling Mist ethanol injection.
Non-Volvo: 2013 Subaru WRX
Dave's Volvo Page
dbarton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 11:40 AM   #5
mopar318
Board Member
 
mopar318's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Wayne
Default

I think you are making this too difficult. Either way you are going to have to splice extra wire in. Just use high quality crimp splices or solder and a good shrink tube. Offset your splices so they don't form a big clump.
__________________
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Pimps out interiors.

1989 244 with pLAID recaros
1980 242
XC90 Yamaha rumbles edition (the save 'em from the crusher rig)


Last edited by mopar318; 04-10-2017 at 01:59 PM..
mopar318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 01:50 PM   #6
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Aptos, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar318 View Post
I think you are making this too difficult. Either way your going to have to splice extra wire in. Just use high quality crimp splices or solder and a good shrink tube. Offset your splices so they don't form a big clump.
You won't have to splice anything if you can pull the wires out all the way back to the firewall grommet. But I agree that splicing isn't a big deal.
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 01:59 PM   #7
mopar318
Board Member
 
mopar318's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Wayne
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
You won't have to splice anything if you can pull the wires out all the way back to the firewall grommet. But I agree that splicing isn't a big deal.
And then how do you take car of the computer side of the harness? Seems like a lot of work for no reason.
mopar318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 02:19 PM   #8
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Aptos, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar318 View Post
And then how do you take car of the computer side of the harness? Seems like a lot of work for no reason.
You'd leave the ECU side all connected, and just pull the wires through the sheath, just up to the firewall grommet point. Then just run the wires on the passenger side of the engine bay to where your AMM will now be.

Really though, either way seems like about the same mount of work for a very similar result.
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 02:35 PM   #9
mopar318
Board Member
 
mopar318's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Wayne
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
You'd leave the ECU side all connected, and just pull the wires through the sheath, just up to the firewall grommet point. Then just run the wires on the passenger side of the engine bay to where your AMM will now be.

Really though, either way seems like about the same mount of work for a very similar result.
Yeah but you still need a splice if you do that.
mopar318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 03:09 PM   #10
OttoB
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar318 View Post
Yeah but you still need a splice if you do that.
No need, stock AMM wires are long enough for +T. I splice only sensor ground wire and connect it at intake manifold. Maybe not needed?

Small screwdriver works when removing pin.
OttoB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 04:27 PM   #11
FezMonki
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Italy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OttoB View Post
No need, stock AMM wires are long enough for +T. I splice only sensor ground wire and connect it at intake manifold. Maybe not needed?

Small screwdriver works when removing pin.
It's either splice or remove the pins, I don't think it's possible to move them otherwise. I opened two harnesses to avoid splicing, spent two hours playing with a ball of wires, but at the volvo factory they criss crossed some wires, they can't be separated properly. At least not in the two I inspected.
__________________
Looking for wagon third stop and a foglight switch. (240)
FezMonki is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 08:40 PM   #12
TurboDenny
Why am I here?
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Default

After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.
TurboDenny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 08:45 PM   #13
FezMonki
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Italy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDenny View Post
After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.
This is the most painless option by far. Wish I had, instead of ending up in a labyrinth, and having to re-sleeve everything in the engine bay.
FezMonki is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 09:52 PM   #14
TurboDenny
Why am I here?
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FezMonki View Post
This is the most painless option by far. Wish I had, instead of ending up in a labyrinth, and having to re-sleeve everything in the engine bay.
definitely the easiest route.

Since I didn't quite make my goal of attending a car show this weekend, I will likely be making a new harness and adding a mil-spec connector at the firewall. Oh well.
TurboDenny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 10:05 PM   #15
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Aptos, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDenny View Post
After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.
Also what I did on my 140, only I just ran the ground from the AMM straight to the chassis ground by the passenger headlight.
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2017, 10:32 PM   #16
SLO240
Awesome Sauce
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pacifica,CA
Default

I have had fairly good luck with Bobby pins. Scrape off the plastic bulbs at the ends and bend both ends inwards so they look like tweezers. Gently push into the end of the plug and gentle pull on the wire, it usually comes right out.
__________________
1985 244 B230F Sister Killed It (RIP)
1982 242 B21FT Kid Hit It (RIP)
1993 245 B230F <--You can do it!

Buyer/seller feedback. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...67#post4602067
SLO240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:27 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.