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Old 04-18-2017, 12:52 PM   #26
CRatcliff
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
You want to have some strangers Roger you royally? $400?/ Who? My old friends downtown?

I didn't wade thru all the above but simple more power is in this order, same for any engine:

Compression.
Camshaft
Carburation...

The 3 Cs

Camshaft makes for the powercurve shape.
Powercurve shape makes the demand for the gearbox ratios

And depending on what you have or will have in the box that can be a big limter on just how much of a fun cam you can get aways with..
Make a peaky motor and the motor will go "whhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa (crunch) duuuuuuuuuh uh uh uhhhh uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhh " on gearchanges and that ain't quick...

45s are fine. I have them on my little V4 and have run different motors over the year from 1886cc to 1815cc to 1730cc And won a round of US National Championship Stage rally with the damn little "spare 1730" and now with 1965cc, 38 venturis and no nothing done between those motors...

$400 is absurd..Unless you WANT to get reamed.

Some people are into that...

You need to talk to somebody with sense on Planet Earth that doesn't need to make this into "The Long March of the PLA"
Hah, thank you! Yeah, Carbs Unlimited quoted $400 for tuning and $300 for install of the DCOEs. I'm plenty comfortable installing them, but don't have all the tools to tune them carefully. Honestly I'm still pretty into the Mikuni set. From what I hear the biggest difficulty is linkage.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:00 PM   #27
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You want to have some strangers Roger you royally? $400?/ Who? My old friends downtown?

You need to talk to somebody with sense on Planet Earth that doesn't need to make this into "The Long March of the PLA"
Speaking of getting Rogered, who would y'all recommend going to for head work? VPD is appealing for the price and quality of work, but there's obviously the hassle of having to make sure I can get my money back if he flakes (PayPal, firm delivery dates, etc). Is there somebody in the Seattle area or am I best sending out for one?

The head on there currently is an F-Head from the 80s (factory rebuilt engine), so I'm tempted to keep that core and get a new one. (I'm thinking the head on there has hardened seats, considering it's coming from the 80s).
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:01 PM   #28
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JohnV left you his number
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:12 PM   #29
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JohnV left you his number
Hahaha, I'm guessing this means he does head work?
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:03 PM   #30
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+t!
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:46 PM   #31
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Hahaha, I'm guessing this means he does head work?
I'm sure that he can help put you on the right path
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:47 PM   #32
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+t!
Also an option...
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:36 PM   #33
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Alrighty all, clearly head work is in order as a solid first step. Car currently runs quite well, so I'm interested in picking up a spare head to do the work on while I keep drivin it around. Anybody have one they'd be interested in selling or a direction they can point me in? Not sure what the best head would be for my application - I've heard F Head, though considering I'm going carb'd I'm not sure what I'd do with the injection ports.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:45 PM   #34
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Injected heads are better than the carbed heads. Bigger intake valves already. And your late F head might already have hardened exhaust seats.

All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:54 PM   #35
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Injected heads are better than the carbed heads. Bigger intake valves already. And your late F head might already have hardened exhaust seats.

All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.
Legit! Now to find an F head!
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:55 PM   #36
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There are heads with big valves and no injector ports. I wasn't aware they existed until recently when I sorted through my collection and found a couple of them.

Most people use a 7/8" welch plug to seal the injector ports. IPD evens sells them for this purpose.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6542...-plug-7-8-inch
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:22 PM   #37
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All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.
I have some freeze plugs in mine, easy and cheap!
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:25 PM   #38
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Awesome awesome. Sounds perfect!

Well, anybody who can advise for where to pick one up in the area (saving some of that shipping!), please let me know!
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:06 PM   #39
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Ive got a b20 head... carbed.. not sure what it is. looks like someone may have tried to port it, maybe. It needs a good going through, but you can have it.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:09 PM   #40
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Ive got a b20 head... carbed.. not sure what it is. looks like someone may have tried to port it, maybe. It needs a good going through, but you can have it.
PM'd!
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:18 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
There are heads with big valves and no injector ports. I wasn't aware they existed until recently when I sorted through my collection and found a couple of them.

Most people use a 7/8" welch plug to seal the injector ports. IPD evens sells them for this purpose.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6542...-plug-7-8-inch
We got plenty of them in Canada as we saw carb'ed cars until 1984! They're the best casting to work on.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T SEND A HEAD TO VPD. There...is that enough warning. Most of the magic is in the seat form. Just get it done by someone that knows what they're doing and doesn't do something stupid like make the exhaust port larger. Seriously - this has been beat to death.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:10 PM   #42
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We got plenty of them in Canada as we saw carb'ed cars until 1984! They're the best casting to work on.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T SEND A HEAD TO VPD. There...is that enough warning. Most of the magic is in the seat form. Just get it done by someone that knows what they're doing and doesn't do something stupid like make the exhaust port larger. Seriously - this has been beat to death.
Haha, definitely not sending to VPD. OK, so I'm SUPER confused. Everything I've read in this thread seems to say that bringing the exhaust up to 38mm and raising compression is the thing to do.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:16 PM   #43
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Trying to understand, if I'm getting a new head to keep my old one as a backup, etc, what all do I need. Talked to John V and it sounds like great first steps are higher compression, 38mm exhaust, and "root around in the bowls", which sounds pretty much the same as what JohnMC said. It also sounds like new valve springs are vital. SO, along with a new head core, I'll need 38mm exhaust valves, valves that match the new head (If it's an F head that's 44mm, correct?), and what else?
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:28 PM   #44
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what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:32 PM   #45
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what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.
Yeah, I read that as well. Honestly, I'm super new to all of this, but John V clearly knows what he's doing, so I'm confident he's not going to point me in the direction of a stupid mistake. He also knows a guy that does work on heads, so I trust that I'm not going to a novice machinist. Just to make 100%, him saying to open the exhaust to 38mm makes sense, right?
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:27 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.
Full marks. Measured for your convenience.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=101

Full story here:

http://calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/vi...2227&start=285

Engine building 101 here:

http://calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/vi...hp?f=12&t=2699

I welded up the port with NiRod and then ported from there. You can also gain some flow on the intake by turning the round port into a D with a little Devcon or JB-Weld.

I'm also working on a stainless header that can have a tab welded in...but that's a bit longish term right now.
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