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240 1989 240 DL rough idle/ride, fluctuating RPM

According to my Mitchell Schematics for your 89 Model 240, fuse #6 is not used, although the primary for is it fed hot from the ignition switch via a piggy back connection on the primary side of fuse #8.
This #6 fuse has been used on most of the 240's for fuel injection, but the 89 model was fed from a 25A fuse under the hood.

It still confuses a lot of people (not Art) as to which models had this change.

The schematics show that the 89 model had the 25A blade fuse mounted on the driver's side fender.
Follow the smaller red wire from the battery (+) post down the left fender . There should be a blade type fuse connection there with a 25A fuse in it.

Check this fuse and it's connection for heat damage or corrosion.
 
centason
I tested my fuel pumps, they all seem to be working properly (shorted both left and right sides of fuse #4 with left side of fuse #6). I installed a fuel pressure gauge (permanently, $10 at Lowe's, plus about $7 in spare parts), and it's reading about 40 psi. That takes the fuel pressure regulator out of the equation, but I figure I'll replace it with a new one, since I already ordered it.

https://youtu.be/nnEnEkg9ugA

Checked the crank sensor manually with a meter, seems to be outputting a frequency (so I'm assuming that it's working).

billkaz
Thanks for the suggestion! I ordered an aftermarket one from FCP, will post back when it comes (have some CPU thermal paste left over from other projects, so this should work out nicely :)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-saab-porsche-ignition-module-3501921

coalminer
Cleaning the 15A and 25A blade fuse holders (and replacing them with brand new ones) on the left side of the engine compartment was actually the first thing that I did, after I started experiencing the problem. This, unfortunately, did not seem to fix the issue.. :(
 
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In a fit of desperation, I decided to check over for vacuum leaks again (spraying carb cleaner on all of the rubber hoses and connections). I replaced all of the hoses with high-temp silicone ones, but there is one part that seems to be the culprit: if I completely soak it in carburetor cleaner, the car seems to idle really well. As soon as the carb cleaner dries, the car starts idling rough again. Here is the part in question:



Anyone know what it is?

Since there was overspray of the carb cleaner onto the "Power Steering" hoses down below.. could the PS hoses be causing the issues as well (or instead)? My guess is "no", but you never know.

Here's how the engine idles after all of the hoses have been replaced. Still a little rough (while there's carb cleaner on the part above). The idle becomes more and more rough as the carb cleaner dries (not in the video). The performance is sluggish in 2nd and 3rd gear.

Engine still throws 1-1-3 code (and nothing else) after about 20 minutes of idling like this (or driving).

https://youtu.be/nX2sP0wkdX4
 
akhan said:
In a fit of desperation, I decided to check over for vacuum leaks again (spraying carb cleaner on all of the rubber hoses and connections). I replaced all of the hoses with high-temp silicone ones, but there is one part that seems to be the culprit: if I completely soak it in carburetor cleaner, the car seems to idle really well. As soon as the carb cleaner dries, the car starts idling rough again. Here is the part in question:



Anyone know what it is?

Since there was overspray of the carb cleaner onto the "Power Steering" hoses down below.. could the PS hoses be causing the issues as well (or instead)? My guess is "no", but you never know.

Here's how the engine idles after all of the hoses have been replaced. Still a little rough (while there's carb cleaner on the part above). The idle becomes more and more rough as the carb cleaner dries (not in the video). The performance is sluggish in 2nd and 3rd gear.

Engine still throws 1-1-3 code (and nothing else) after about 20 minutes of idling like this (or driving).

https://youtu.be/nX2sP0wkdX4
Click to expand...


That's an EGR valve, Power steering hoses are not part of the problem.

Keep working your diags, you'll find it.
 
After reading up on it, it seems like the EGR doesn't really do much, aside from satisfying California emissions (I guess I shouldnt've gotten a Cali car.. those come with all sorts of weird things that the other 49 states do not require). Am I correct in thinking that the EGR valve doesn't really do much for the car? How difficult would it be to completely remove this system and eliminate one more point of failure (potentially)?

Is there a way to do this without swapping the ICU from another vehicle without the EGR?
 
coalminer said:
This #6 fuse has been used on most of the 240's for fuel injection, but the 89 model was fed from a 25A fuse under the hood.

It still confuses a lot of people (not Art) as to which models had this change.
Click to expand...

Yes, there is a lot of confusion, but mostly as a result of Volvo's trying to put all the info into one document. Fuse 6, prior to 1991, never had anything to do with fuel injection here in the US. But in other markets, fuse 6 protected K-jet main pumps, and so, it is labeled on the fuse panel cover such that only people who are detail oriented could discern that it only applies to the non-EFI cars.

Same sort of thing applies to the "113 equals injector failure" notion. I cringe to think of how many people have spent $$$ on injectors because of this mythology.
 
I would just get the EGR to work right. I also have a cali car, and have not had any problems with my EGR. In theory it would give you better gas millage as you will be burning fuel vapors and whatnot instead of just putting them into the atmosphere. I believe there is a test for the egr valve operation as well on the diagnostic unit. It will click open and shut. It could be sticking maybe, or more likely the hoses from it to the charcoal canister, or the charcoal canister itself is cracked? That would introduce a nice vacuum leak that I believe could cause your issues. I'm not an expert on this though so maybe someone else can chime in on egr vacuum leaks and their effects.
 
Uncleknucklez said:
That's an EGR valve, Power steering hoses are not part of the problem.

Keep working your diags, you'll find it.
Click to expand...

That is NOT an EGR valve!

EGR lowers combustion temps and NOX emissions.

The valves don't seem to fail on these cars. A way to test it is to apply vacuum to it and car will stumble/stall at idle.

Apply 12v and ground to that EGR solenoid at idle and engine should stumble or stall if the system is functional.

I don't have anything else to add right now.
 
After a month hiatus (where I was troubleshooting / busy with work), the 244 is finally running very smoothly.

I took intothelabyrinth's advice to get the EGR system running well. Pulled another solenoid from a local junkyard, replaced the charcoal canister with one from the same donor car, as well as pretty much all vacuum hoses with brand new silicone ones. The thick hose running from the throttle body to the charcoal canister was replaced with a rubber fuel line from Lowe's ($7.99, I think).

The car started running marginally better, but still stumbled after the initial 10-20 seconds (when the fuel injection system was trying to adjust based on the sensor readings?). I decided to circle back to the radiator thermostat and coolant temperature sensor, as well as flush the radiator in the process.

I found that the thermostat was originally an 87-degree one.. and was completely destroyed. The spring was loose and both supports were cracked and sheared off (which explains the erratic temp needle behavior). Replaced it with a 92-degree one from FCP.. and also replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new one.

Pulled the battery for about 15 minutes, plugged it back in and voila.. car is running perfectly. I can't imagine that a $5.99 sensor would completely obliterate the fuel injection system performance.. but that's what seems to have happened.

Currently, code 2-3-2 gets thrown (too lean/too rich), but the oxygen sensor might be fouled up from all the soot and crud that was running through the exhaust when the engine was not running well---I am assuming that this is where the 2-3-2 code comes from. I am going to place another order and get the O2 sensor and see if that fixes the problem.

I'm pretty psyched that the car is finally running at full power, though. It's a nice feeling, especially with a stick shift.
 
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