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Help with turbo choice

A

apachechef

Burnt Sierra Madre
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Location
An obscure body in the SK system
1993 245 trutac in manual dif from 1990
Sorted suspension to my happiness.

1990 NA block
BMW Squirters
2.5L Penta Crank
Wiseco Pistons
RSI rods
530 head
Enem K15 cam

Overall Goals:
300+HP
Street driving, lower lag
Air conditioning
FITS 240 on 90+ manifold

Plan:
90+ manifold for now
Jao made 3" side exhaust
Robert Davis radiator
NPR intercooler


Initial start and shakedown/troubleshooting:
LH 2.4 with TLAO chips
browntops
M47

Further Testing:
proper more accurately sized modern injectors
Ostrich and Buchka wasted spark as needed, MS when needed
have T5 to install as sorting gets close to "finish" to keep M47 for different project.

Desire turbocharger with integral and CBV for simplicity.
Desire turbocharger with internal wastegate for simplicity and room to retain factory AC.
Will also allow JAO exhaust I have and like, that has a conical interface for a 15g that I will have rewelded into proper config for new turbo, preferably with a V band clamp setup, I like easy dis/assembly


Cheap Chinese turbo acceptable as a bridge to more expensive quality unit as info ad goals solidify.

Parts on hand:
conical 15g, which might go in for basic testing of engine/control if project delayed and I get bored, but I prefer to build/assemble as much as possible on stand.

Proturbo header with 3" downpipe/external wastegate for Holset.
HY35 Holset
HX35? Holset
This setup interferes with AC, unacceptable, will be sold eventually, or traded.

Input?
Looking for input for turbo choice, advice supporting mods aren't as useful here, they will be handled as they come up after this decision point is past.
Budget 1k
 
Last edited:
For the goals. I would suggest staying on frame and ditching the conical flange for the straight or even angled flange. That will improve a fairly capable 15G on your car significantly.

With your mods you may be able to kiss 300 with a 15G and proper injectors.

Otherwise go 19T.

I would say forget the Holsets if you want minimum lag. They're probably fine, but no lag turbos they are not.

From there I would suggest looking at modern turbos. Not sure you want to play that game though.
 
EivlEvo said:
For the goals. I would suggest staying on frame and ditching the conical flange for the straight or even angled flange. That will improve a fairly capable 15G on your car significantly.

With your mods you may be able to kiss 300 with a 15G and proper injectors.

Otherwise go 19T.

I would say forget the Holsets if you want minimum lag. They're probably fine, but no lag turbos they are not.

From there I would suggest looking at modern turbos. Not sure you want to play that game though.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply.
What i wrote about the 15g was meant to convey I have a nice 3" downpipe and exhaust, currently with a conical flange. I plan on having that flange replaced with whatever is needed for the new turbo, hopefully a v-band for ease of attachment.
I do not want to wish to run the 15g other than for shakedown purposes.

jvluntzel said:
Why not go with borg warner EFR 6258? It has everything you wanted listed above, is better quality than ebay, and has much quicker spool than Holsets.
https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-6258-turbo/
Click to expand...
thanks, but somewhat overbudget of 1k, if My calcs are off, I will reevaluate.

tryingbe said:
k24

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-S60R...kw=k24+turbo&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0
Click to expand...
will this bolt to the 90+ ok?
white855T said:
Its been recommended before but I'd vote for a TD05 16g(can be upgraded later on if your goals change). You can get one off ebay(chinabay brand) or try to find a good used one. It might be more work then you would initially like to put it if your just trying to put the car together.

Link to ebay 16g: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TD05H-16G-...G+OEM+Spec&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
Click to expand...
Will it bolt to the 90+?
grinding off the volvo ring like flange is ok
 
Last edited:
apachechef said:
will this bolt to the 90+ ok?
Click to expand...

What do you think?
s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg
 
If you want to stay above 15g and have good spool characteristics my vote then goes to 16G (Td05) though or better yet just go modern turbo that just does exactly what you want?

I'm a big fan of reuse, but in reality... CNC tech has come so far along with CFD etc that older style turbos are pretty quickly outclassed by their modern counterparts.
 
EivlEvo said:
If you want to stay above 15g and have good spool characteristics my vote then goes to 16G (Td05) though or better yet just go modern turbo that just does exactly what you want?

I'm a big fan of reuse, but in reality... CNC tech has come so far along with CFD etc that older style turbos are pretty quickly outclassed by their modern counterparts.
Click to expand...

Still don't think you understand my wants:
streetable lag, it's not a drag car
appropriate for engine and power 300+
internal wg, cbv
fits in 240 with a 90+, either milled or unmilled
go modern turbo that just does exactly what you want?
Click to expand...
That's great, what modern one fits the above?
 
The K24 would be a good choice. Price listed is pretty good in the one above.

Yes it will fit the manifold. A few people have run them.

They are a well designed, long lasting OEM turbo from an engine that made 300hp/tq stock and can be boosted reliably above that a bit. Being OEM, it spools quickly to give a broad power band. I believe that the turbine outlet is pretty close (location wise) to the other mitsu turbo's (but it will have a flat or angled flange, I can't remember).

Edit- has integrated CBV and is internally gated


Someone on here ran one and posted a couple dyno runs. I can't remember who it was, and it was a few years ago.

Another option would be the Mitsu turbo from an EVO that I believe Fige(?) ran? Again, an OEM turbo, in the power level you're looking for. I'm unsure of fitment though.

Jordan
 
apachechef said:
with all four studs from the 90+? Asking beccause there is one stud on that turbo that looks hard to access from the turbo side.
Click to expand...

Looks like it just needs to be drilled out and reclocked. But yes it'll fit, just the the 15g

Annnddd, beaten to it... ^^this guy got it first
 
The 16g is not bolt as you need to fabricate a manifold and down pipe, reconfigure oil/water lines but I do think its a very good option for a daily driver. You can easily make a header like this one:

127794935.jpg
 
apachechef said:
Still don't think you understand my wants:
streetable lag, it's not a drag car
appropriate for engine and power 300+
internal wg, cbv
fits in 240 with a 90+, either milled or unmilled

That's great, what modern one fits the above?
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
apachechef said:
Still don't think you understand my wants:
streetable lag, it's not a drag car
appropriate for engine and power 300+
internal wg, cbv
fits in 240 with a 90+, either milled or unmilled

That's great, what modern one fits the above?
Click to expand...

With those requirement, your choice are limited to
19T or K24.

Pick one.
 
tryingbe said:
With those requirement, your choice are limited to
19T or K24.

Pick one.
Click to expand...

AND be pumped about it, 19T and K24 are both great turbos, and will make the car a joy to drive. We are fortunate to have all of these late model parts that literally bolt to most of our 20+ year old cars.

For the record my 16T at 17 psi MOVES my car no problem.
 
Internal CBV restricts the turbo list significantly.

It's easy enough to add a CBV, like one from a 1g DSM. They're cheap. I made this sweet homemade flange to use this one on our 24hr lemons car that had a T3 and retained LH2.4, so I didn't want to run a BOV. The 7-series cars that used a T3 had a 90 degree elbow off the compressor outlet that had a ~1" pipe stub for the external CBV that would have been bolted to the head, so that's how we plumbed it with stock IC piping (from a few different years/models) in our 240.

133532125.jpg
 
Emailed Kinugawa turbo
and they will sell me a combo of these two:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbochargerupgradevolvo740940td04hl-19tw7cmhousing.aspx
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbochargervolvo850s70glttd04hl-16tbillet-1-2.aspx

20T clockable WG type compressor housing with CBV from the first link, along with the larger "flat" Volvo turbine housing that will mate right up to the 90+ manifold. I'll need a 3bolt exhaust flange to v-band made, and a v-band flange adaptor welded onto my currently conical downpipe. (I know I could just mod the DP for the 3bolt, but I want easy dis/assembly)

Compressor Wheel 47mm / 58 mm (20T)
Turbine Wheel 52mm / 45.6 mm (TD04HL)

they gave me a quote of 799 Shipped, which sounds pretty good when everything a used turbo needs is accounted for.
Anybody have any last minute advice before I order this turbo?
Safe company, good products?
Thanks, all



Here's some updated info from the original post:
Overall Goals:
300+HP
Street driving, lower lag
Air conditioning

So Far:
1993 245
trutac in manual dif from 1990
Sorted suspension to my happiness.

1990 NA block
BMW Squirters
2.5L Penta Crank
Wiseco Pistons
RSI rods
530 head
Enem K15 cam
Jao made 3" side exhaust
Robert Davis radiator
NPR intercooler
T5WC transmission
Starting with LH2.4+browntops+TLAO chips, will then use ostrich and add wasted spark, then eventually MS3

Further Testing:
proper more accurately sized modern injectors
Ostrich and Buchka wasted spark as needed, MS when needed

Desire turbocharger with integral and CBV for simplicity. Check
bolts on 90+ manifoldCheck
Desire turbocharger with internal wastegate for simplicity and room to retain factory AC.Check
Will also allow JAO exhaust I have and like, that has a conical interface for a 15g that I will have rewelded into proper config for new turbo, preferably with a V band clamp setup, I like easy dis/assembly Check
~1k budget?Check
Click to expand...
 
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