wgusler
New member
- Joined
- May 10, 2016
- Location
- Apopka, Florida US
OEM Volvo E-Code Headlamps and side lights from Skandix (More info in OP)
I have had multiple IM's and e mails asking about the E Codes from Skandix AG so I will post all the info here for reference.
Daniel Stern from DanialsternLighting.com told me about Skandix for OEM Volvo E Codes and discouraged me from buying FCP aftermarket. He gave me the Volvo part numbers for each part as they are not listed by vehicle, you can only find them by part numbers.
I had all ready purchased the FCP kit but just pulled out the chrome trim over the headlamps and set the rest back for a refund. The OEM Volvo trim was 40.00 each so I can live with the FCP 9.99 ones.
I e-mailed Skandix and they replied that the parts were available for on-line ordering but would take 2 weeks as they were special order from Volvo. Shipping to US was 50.00 Euro. Went online and added the four parts to my cart and the total was 471.86 E with shipping and VAT tax. When I entered all my info to complete the order, the price dropped to 404.51 E or $457.84 dollars. I guess that you get a discount when you sign up for the website.
Ordered on 6-1-16 and received them today,6-21-16.
After looking at them, I can say that they are a whole different level of quality and construction from the FCP parts. Here is some pics and a copy of my invoice.
Website is http://www.skandix.de/en/ and the person I contacted was Florian K?rner [florian.koerner@skandix.de]
Any part not listed, e-mail Florian and he will look for it. ( I also ordered a full set of new OEM Volvo front bumper moldings but the price is shameful 219.37 shipped
)
Here is the e-mail from Daniel Stern posted with his permission, with some good info/ advice that saved me from a big mistake IMHO.
Greetings, Mr. Gusler. Thanks for writing:
I have a 1989 Volvo 245 that I am working my way thru.
A very fine start!
have an E code headlamp kit on the way from FCP Euro
Oof. Those are cheap and nasty knockoffs from China, very poorly made, with unsafe performance and fraudulent type approvals. Ryan's got a page about that on his site:
http://www.ohio.edu/people/ridgely/e-code-comp.htm
He gives the off-brand junk a great deal more credit than it deserves, and he made that comparison years ago; the knockoffs have grown considerably worse in quality and performance since then (worn tooling).
The low price on the counterfeit headlamps is attractive, of course, but they really don't even qualify as headlamps.
They are headlamp-shaped trinkets. The Brazilian units he compared are no longer readily obtainable, but the genuine European Cibie units (in turn better than the Brazilian
ones) can still be had -- I don't supply them, but sourcing info is below. Here is the info file:
To see well in an '86-up 240, you need to change to the European headlamps. The genuine Volvo items are the ones to get, not the Scan-Tech, DJAuto, Depo, TYC, Genera, Fifft, "ProParts Sweden" or other off-brand units that are all over the internet. Their low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all significantly inferior to the genuine items, so make the effort to get the genuine items. These can be had from Wagner und Guenther or from Skandix. Write to p.ludwig@w-und-g.de and to info@skandix.de and specifically request "genuine Volvo OEM" lamps. You will need the headlamps *and* the corner park/turn lamps; the US park/turn lamps will not fit/work, so you will need one of each of the following part numbers:
1372394
1372395
1312757
1312758
The only other component needed is the "eyebrow" trim at the very top of the headlamp. This isn't Euro-specific; if you wish, you can remove it from your existing headlamps and affix it to the new ones.
Or else you can
purchase new trim -- the aftermarket items from FCP are fine, as this is not a safety-crucial component so "aftermarket quality" isn't a big concern as it is with lamps.
A relay package will definitely be necessary; that'll be kit RIK-H4R, $59. The RIK is not a harness, but a _parts kit_ containing all relays, brackets, terminal blocks, terminals, plugs, sockets, fuses and fuseholders. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
.Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store.
Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components.
Cost for this option is $159 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness).
Installation is simple: you run the marked wires to battery positive and to battery negative, snap the harness plug onto one of the vehicle's original headlamp sockets, snap the harness sockets onto the headlamps, and secure the cable runs and relays neatly out of harm's way. Either way, parts kit or built-up harness, the in-car switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires.
Bulbs:
Use Osram 70/65w H4 bulbs, $21.59/ea (from me). It's tempting to grab for big wattage numbers, but it's counterproductive. Please see bulb test results posted by my colleague Virgil at http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?392498-Interesting-headlight-bulb-test-results
Lamp aim:
Aim the new lamps per the "VOL" specifications at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html -- very preferably with an optical aiming machine.
Daytime running lights:
As described above, the European corner park/turn lamps (if they're the genuine items, properly specified) have a socket for a 2-filament bulb in the upper compartment. The dim filament in the upper chamber is used for the parking light function, same as the US corner park/turn lamps (which won't fit with the Euro headlamps). The bright filament in the upper chamber is used, in the Nordic countries, for the daytime running light function. It's not very difficult to set up the DRLs as they were originally engineered to work.
Parts kit RIK-VDRL ($33) contains what you need. Result of the installation: with the ignition on, the parking lamps or headlamps off, and the handbrake released, the DRLs are on.
Any other case (handbrake applied, parking or headlamps on, ignition off) the DRLs are off.
Result: with the ignition on, the parking lamps or headlamps off, and the handbrake released, the DRLs are on. Any other case (handbrake applied, parking or headlamps on, ignition off) the DRLs are off.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-240-european-e-code-headlight-headlights
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/headlight-bulb-wiring-for-h4-bulb-9003
Ugh, no. Those wires are WAY too thin.
Cheers and drive safely,
Daniel Stern
tech@danielsternlighting.com .
I have had multiple IM's and e mails asking about the E Codes from Skandix AG so I will post all the info here for reference.
Daniel Stern from DanialsternLighting.com told me about Skandix for OEM Volvo E Codes and discouraged me from buying FCP aftermarket. He gave me the Volvo part numbers for each part as they are not listed by vehicle, you can only find them by part numbers.
I had all ready purchased the FCP kit but just pulled out the chrome trim over the headlamps and set the rest back for a refund. The OEM Volvo trim was 40.00 each so I can live with the FCP 9.99 ones.
I e-mailed Skandix and they replied that the parts were available for on-line ordering but would take 2 weeks as they were special order from Volvo. Shipping to US was 50.00 Euro. Went online and added the four parts to my cart and the total was 471.86 E with shipping and VAT tax. When I entered all my info to complete the order, the price dropped to 404.51 E or $457.84 dollars. I guess that you get a discount when you sign up for the website.
Ordered on 6-1-16 and received them today,6-21-16.
After looking at them, I can say that they are a whole different level of quality and construction from the FCP parts. Here is some pics and a copy of my invoice.
Website is http://www.skandix.de/en/ and the person I contacted was Florian K?rner [florian.koerner@skandix.de]
Any part not listed, e-mail Florian and he will look for it. ( I also ordered a full set of new OEM Volvo front bumper moldings but the price is shameful 219.37 shipped
)Here is the e-mail from Daniel Stern posted with his permission, with some good info/ advice that saved me from a big mistake IMHO.
Greetings, Mr. Gusler. Thanks for writing:
I have a 1989 Volvo 245 that I am working my way thru.
A very fine start!
have an E code headlamp kit on the way from FCP Euro
Oof. Those are cheap and nasty knockoffs from China, very poorly made, with unsafe performance and fraudulent type approvals. Ryan's got a page about that on his site:
http://www.ohio.edu/people/ridgely/e-code-comp.htm
He gives the off-brand junk a great deal more credit than it deserves, and he made that comparison years ago; the knockoffs have grown considerably worse in quality and performance since then (worn tooling).
The low price on the counterfeit headlamps is attractive, of course, but they really don't even qualify as headlamps.
They are headlamp-shaped trinkets. The Brazilian units he compared are no longer readily obtainable, but the genuine European Cibie units (in turn better than the Brazilian
ones) can still be had -- I don't supply them, but sourcing info is below. Here is the info file:
To see well in an '86-up 240, you need to change to the European headlamps. The genuine Volvo items are the ones to get, not the Scan-Tech, DJAuto, Depo, TYC, Genera, Fifft, "ProParts Sweden" or other off-brand units that are all over the internet. Their low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all significantly inferior to the genuine items, so make the effort to get the genuine items. These can be had from Wagner und Guenther or from Skandix. Write to p.ludwig@w-und-g.de and to info@skandix.de and specifically request "genuine Volvo OEM" lamps. You will need the headlamps *and* the corner park/turn lamps; the US park/turn lamps will not fit/work, so you will need one of each of the following part numbers:
1372394
1372395
1312757
1312758
The only other component needed is the "eyebrow" trim at the very top of the headlamp. This isn't Euro-specific; if you wish, you can remove it from your existing headlamps and affix it to the new ones.
Or else you can
purchase new trim -- the aftermarket items from FCP are fine, as this is not a safety-crucial component so "aftermarket quality" isn't a big concern as it is with lamps.
A relay package will definitely be necessary; that'll be kit RIK-H4R, $59. The RIK is not a harness, but a _parts kit_ containing all relays, brackets, terminal blocks, terminals, plugs, sockets, fuses and fuseholders. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
.Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store.
Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components.
Cost for this option is $159 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness).
Installation is simple: you run the marked wires to battery positive and to battery negative, snap the harness plug onto one of the vehicle's original headlamp sockets, snap the harness sockets onto the headlamps, and secure the cable runs and relays neatly out of harm's way. Either way, parts kit or built-up harness, the in-car switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires.
Bulbs:
Use Osram 70/65w H4 bulbs, $21.59/ea (from me). It's tempting to grab for big wattage numbers, but it's counterproductive. Please see bulb test results posted by my colleague Virgil at http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?392498-Interesting-headlight-bulb-test-results
Lamp aim:
Aim the new lamps per the "VOL" specifications at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html -- very preferably with an optical aiming machine.
Daytime running lights:
As described above, the European corner park/turn lamps (if they're the genuine items, properly specified) have a socket for a 2-filament bulb in the upper compartment. The dim filament in the upper chamber is used for the parking light function, same as the US corner park/turn lamps (which won't fit with the Euro headlamps). The bright filament in the upper chamber is used, in the Nordic countries, for the daytime running light function. It's not very difficult to set up the DRLs as they were originally engineered to work.
Parts kit RIK-VDRL ($33) contains what you need. Result of the installation: with the ignition on, the parking lamps or headlamps off, and the handbrake released, the DRLs are on.
Any other case (handbrake applied, parking or headlamps on, ignition off) the DRLs are off.
Result: with the ignition on, the parking lamps or headlamps off, and the handbrake released, the DRLs are on. Any other case (handbrake applied, parking or headlamps on, ignition off) the DRLs are off.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-240-european-e-code-headlight-headlights
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/headlight-bulb-wiring-for-h4-bulb-9003
Ugh, no. Those wires are WAY too thin.
Cheers and drive safely,
Daniel Stern
tech@danielsternlighting.com .
Last edited:
