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1980 242 t6

Mueller said:
Neat 242 build...that Chevy is pretty cool as well.

As for the strut... a "normal" person would go out and buy a lathe just so they could single point cut the threads...more tools man!
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Your probably right about the lathe - should of thought more long term. No honey, we really NEED this very heavy and not at all complicated tool so that I can ____________(fill in the blank)
 
Mueller said:
Neat 242 build...that Chevy is pretty cool as well.

Thanks on both. The Volvo is for me, so it always goes to the end of the list when something else comes in. But the Chevy is in the March 2014 issue of Popular Hot Rodding as one of the 17 best builds of SEMA. I have to brag a little about that.
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Fascinated by those struts

So many good ideas on this thread. But the struts got me thinking. Could you figure out a way to refurb the no-longer-available Nivomats?
 
End of February Update

I had to get back to work, so I didn't make a ton of progress on the car the last couple of weeks. I did get my front and rear caliper brackets designed and cut out on the Plasma table.
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I have also added the spacers (small sections of some 1" x 1/4" wall tubing) to both the front and rear plates so that they are a complete bracket now. I still need to finish cleaning up the rear end and paint it.

I also shortened the tubing on and added a threaded adapter to the panard bar to make it adjustable. While I was ordering parts I got enough stuff to make the upper rear control arms adjustable and new bushings for everything.

I'll try to take some pics later this week.

** I cut out some extra caliper bracket plates if anyone wants to make their own adapters, pm me if interested.
 
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Panhard Bar

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Here is a look at the Adjustable Panhard Bar. I used the factory bar and just added a threaded insert and threaded rod. Just need to install the new bushings.
 
March 08 Update

Here is a picture of the original upper control arm after blasting and in the jig. The jig is really only to let me set both arms to the same length and to the factory length.
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This one shows the first cut I made.
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I cut off about 2.25" on the first try and then went back and took off another .75" to get a nice finish. This allowed the threaded stud to be in the middle of its length when installed to the factory total length.
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These are the threaded adapters and studs I used to make my adjustable links. I used a Left and a Right Hand thread, but this is realy not necessary on a single adjustable link. I just have plenty of both so why not!?
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Adapter installed, you can also see the hole (there is another on the other side) for my plug welds.
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The upper link is all welded up just need to push out the bushings and cleanup the welds, then its ready for paint.
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My Rear axle all cleaned up and with a coat of primer. I am going to install new seals and bearings and then paint it.
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If I were making them, I would have used jack-screws instead of the setup you have going....a bit easier to adjust. If I wanted a setup like yours, I would have just bought the ipd units as they are made with much thicker tube to hold the bushings (the stock ones like to egg out and/or break when a bit of power is being put through the drivetrain).
 
RvolvoR said:
If I were making them, I would have used jack-screws instead of the setup you have going....a bit easier to adjust. If I wanted a setup like yours, I would have just bought the ipd units as they are made with much thicker tube to hold the bushings (the stock ones like to egg out and/or break when a bit of power is being put through the drivetrain).
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no extra power neccessary, did this to my old 84 completely stock. teenager with too hard of starts and shifts....
 
Thanks for the input. I often wonder if I anyone ever looks at this thread. It's nice to get some constructive criticism - occasionally. :)

I went the way I did, because I had already purchased new poly bushings for the factory parts. Then I decided to try making my own adjustable links.

I thought about using jack screws, but I only had one in my parts bin, so I went this way instead.
You are right about being easier to adjust with a jack screw, but I figure I will only be messing with adjustments a few times then - tighten everything up. I thought about adding a larger tube around the oem bushing ends, but with the oem version having the squished area in the middle and I couldn't see any real value. If I end up tearing the bushings, I can always cut off the bushing ends and add a thicker wall tubing and some universal poly bushings. I really don't want to go with heims because I want to be able to drive with out all the harshness coming thru from the road. I live in NM - our roads are awesome. - NOT
 
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March 09 Update

I took things a little further today and made my own rear lower control arms too. My coil over tabs are only tacked on at this point and I still need to add another (front) mounting point for the sway bar, but I think they came out pretty good and everything seems to be in the correct location to mount up.
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I reused the factory bushing ends from the original trailing arms so that I could use my already purchased poly bushings, I did however reinforce them with a piece of .120" wall tubing around the outside, making them over .200" thick now.
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The first one took about 4 hours for me to work through all of the design elements and bolt locations. The second one only took about 1.5 hours to cut and weld up all of the pieces. The hardest part was getting the old bushings out.
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doucheNozzle said:
My truck has hydroboost. I think it sucks. Please tell me why it's good.
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It sucks on your truck because your trucks brakes suck, all GM truck brakes suck, doesn't matter how they are powered. Hydroboost is a great setup. Compact and easy to fit. Just run P/S pump to it, done and done. No low or non existent vacuum to worry about.

Car is lookin good, and a plasma table? Thats a nice thing to have access too. Aldo I like the jumbo tap for your strut tubes. Im curious to see those all finished up. Will be bitchin when done!
 
So that's what it looks like when a professional does it...I have been slowly plugging away with my project and frustrated about clearance for a brake booster I search hydroboost volvo....and find this guy making the swap look easy. Any tips you learned on the hydro boost?
 
Bragging again

Here is another picture of the 64' Chevelle that I spent so much time on last year.

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May 2014 - Super Chevy - Cover and 4 pages inside!!
 
03-18-2014 update

I got back on the struts today. Most everything I needed came in from Coleman racing recently. I ordered two steel threaded sleeves, two 8" 250lb springs, spring retainers and adjustable seats.

I also ordered my strut cartridges, Koni 8610-1437.
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The Koni strut (yellow) is 3" shorter than the OEM version (Blue).
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Because of this fact, I welded my threaded sleeves on to the strut 3" from the top, for my first planned install I have only shortened the strut tube 1.5".
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The problem with this is I also ordered 8" springs and with the Koni spaced up 1.5" and fully extended I don't have enough thread left to preload the spring. I am either going to need some helper springs 2-4" long (which would have the benefit of acting like a progressive spring if I choose a different spring rate) or I am going to need 10-12" springs. I debated with my self for a couple of days about getting the 10" springs - to bad I lost the argument.

I think the 8" spring will work well if I cut another 1.5" off the tube, just not sure how low I want the car yet.

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sorry about the crappy pics, all I have is an iPhone for this stuff.
 
Hydro boost update

Ju1cE said:
So that's what it looks like when a professional does it...I have been slowly plugging away with my project and frustrated about clearance for a brake booster I search hydroboost volvo....and find this guy making the swap look easy. Any tips you learned on the hydro boost?
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I haven't completed my hydroboost setup yet, but I can tell you, you will need a couple of adapters machined to fit the Volvo master cylinder onto the Chevy truck system. Also, the push rod needs to be removed and shortened.

The further I got into it and with some additional research, I found that the Ford Mustang system was a better match, the push rod is almost the perfect length and the master cylinder can be used because the brake line outputs are on the correct side. This and the fact that you can get three different sized master cylinder bores gives you a better chance of matching what ever brake changes you have made. I picked up a complete late 90's Mustang hydroboost setup (including all the hoses and a power steering cooler) for $55 at the pick and pull in Albuquerque. I then ordered a new master cylinder with the bore I wanted on Amazon for another $35.

I still need to fill the holes in the firewall from the chevy truck unit but other than that the mustang unit looks like it is going to work very well. I will try to get some pictures soon.

** As a side note, another popular unit to use is out of the Astro Vans, it is larger and they seem to be sought after, because I only found one unit at the pick and pull that day. ***
 
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