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Old 02-24-2007, 01:36 PM   #1
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Default Today's Progress....

Got a chance to do a bit today. Got the turbo off, the manifold off and the downpipe off.

My SSAC header hasn't come back from the machine shop so, with Griz's permission I used his (which was at my house) so I could mock up stuff.

First, I put the T04B cold side on my Cossie T3. I took a couple of snaps to show the difference.





In that 2nd image you can see that the compressor wheel has much thicker blades. I'm guessing the coldside came from a diesel, which would account for the difference.

so I trial fitted the header and a couple of problems come to light immediately. The #1 primary hits the PAS pipe but, much worse, is the fact that it also touches the hose off the water pump:



The only way I can see round it is to have an elbow welded to the water pump, but if anyone can think of another way of doing it I'd be very interested to hear about it.

That aside, I got the turbo reclocked and started to make the V Band adaptor for the downpipe.

The compressor housing sits very close to the bonnet, so i need to get some heat reflective material to prevent the paint getting too hot and discolouring. For now I've just removed the sound deadening.

End of play today sees me stuck until I can get a couple more silicone elbow reducers, but some progress made at least...........



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Old 02-24-2007, 02:05 PM   #2
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...but, much worse, is the fact that it also touches the hose off the water pump:
This has been documented already by Kenny. Weld on an elbow.

Looks like you could use an elbow welded onto the compressor outlet as well to aim it at the IC.
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Old 02-24-2007, 02:29 PM   #3
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This has been documented already by Kenny. Weld on an elbow.

Looks like you could use an elbow welded onto the compressor outlet as well to aim it at the IC.
Kenny's documenting of it must have been before my time. I've got some 32mm aluminium tube which I could prep for an elbow and get welded to a water pump.
Good idea on the compressor outlet- I hadn't thought of that. I'll have a hunt around for some 65mm aluminium tube. That could well work out cheaper than a silicone elbow reducer.

Good thinking that man- did you get my stickers?
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Old 02-24-2007, 02:41 PM   #4
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so I trial fitted the header and a couple of problems come to light immediately. The #1 primary hits the PAS pipe but, much worse, is the fact that it also touches the hose off the water pump
As you're having the flange rewelded anyway, would chopping a bit off the runners before having the flange put on, and tilting the whole assembly up a bit and towards the engine a bit, work?

Or will that make things worse

Looking good regardless, love the black compressor housing.
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Old 02-24-2007, 03:14 PM   #5
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The header had already been rewelded when I got it- it's at the machine shop having the flange milled flat as it was banana-like in it's flatness.
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:25 AM   #6
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The man is a pimp, and a fast one at that...

cheers

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Old 02-25-2007, 09:02 AM   #7
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Hi Mark,

Looking good!

Don't suppose you managed to weight the compressor wheel did you, curious to know how much heavier it is compared with your old T3 wheel. you probably right regarding the thickness of the compressor vanes, it was probably designed to sit pushing 2 bar into a gigantic diesel 10hrs a day.

Will that oil feed be ok running through the primaries or will it eventually be routed up the strut side? The only reason I ask is that it's only rubber or teflon inside that stainless sheeth don't want to see a repeat of what happened to Mike's wagon in the summer after you've put in all this work.

Anyway looks great hope you'll have it up and running soon.
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:42 AM   #8
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Bertie, check out Kenny's pbase site... I think he used a clever combination of copper pipe elbows to alleviate the problem of the water pump hose.

But... www.mcmaster.com sells a very nice sch 40 6061 aluminum pipe elbow that could easily be welded on to the end of the water pump. I'm sure a tig welder could do it for a minimum fee..... the part number is 43485K124 (1 1/2) or 43485K123 (1 1/4).... $18 US. (the sch40 is cheaper than the sch10).

Looking great!

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Old 02-25-2007, 01:58 PM   #9
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I've got an aluminium elbow on the way for the water pump, so I'll get that and the elbow on the compressor outlet done at the same time.

I need to replace the oil feed as it's too short now. I'll make a descision on its routing before I get e new one made. Thankfully, a lot of stuff like the oil feed etc. will also fit when the 16v goes in next winter (or maybe earlier).
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Old 02-25-2007, 01:59 PM   #10
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The man is a pimp, and a fast one at that...

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Old 02-25-2007, 02:08 PM   #11
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Nice upper radiator support!
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Old 02-25-2007, 04:47 PM   #12
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Nice upper radiator support!

Beats zipties!
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:13 PM   #13
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where did you get your elbow from , and dont say your mother or father !!!!

ive got a steering column quite close to mine .
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:25 PM   #14
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fleabay, of course.

I've already got some pipe for the water pump that just needs cutting and bending ready for the welder- the link above is for the one to weld to the turbo.

If you need a bit of pipe to make into the elbow for the water pump I'll gladly send you a bit for the cost of the postage.
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Old 02-25-2007, 06:57 PM   #15
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ahh ok then , erm, yeah .

i thought youd bought a bend for the water pump that could theoretically be quik steeled on .

but yeah , ill take you up on that offer of the tube .

taken to PMs.
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:12 PM   #16
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Old 02-27-2007, 05:04 AM   #17
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Default bugger bugger bugger bugger bugger................

So I've got the day to myself and a load of jobs to do- port my oid drain hole and thread it, fit my header, make the oil drain hose, make the V band adapter for the turbo, make the downpipe,etc..........

But it's p*ssing down outside and freezing cold

So I guess I could do a couple of wiring jobs in side the car and put the interior back together, maybe tidy the garage a bit...............
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:43 AM   #18
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what you need is a double garage
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:55 PM   #19
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Not that you're smug, or anything...

cheers

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Old 02-27-2007, 03:02 PM   #20
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just uploading pics of todays progress...........
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Old 02-27-2007, 03:44 PM   #21
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Well, I managed to get some stuff done in between dodging rain storms.

Firstly, I'd got my header back after the machine shop had taken 6mm off the flange to get it flat!
So I put it on the other engine for a dummy setup to attach the turbo and check the flange etc.

It fitted, at least.





I kept nipping out of the garage during the dry periods to try and get the block ready for grinding and tapping for the oil drain. This showed up a problem- to gain access to the oil drain I had two choices, either remove the steering column (not a good choice) or unbolt the right hand engine mount and raise the engine with a jack.

Needless to say, I chose the latter.



Now at this point I must categorically state that it is NOT impossible to port the oil drain hole and tap a 3/4 NPT thread with the engine in the car.
It is, however, ALMOST impossible.

At this point rain stopped play yet again, so it was back to the garage to try and find something to do.
So I decided to make a V Band adapter for my Cossie T3/4 (as it is now).

I cut the flare off my earlier downpipe and with the flange, bolted it tight and square to the turbine housing. I tacked it with weld, took it off and ground it flush. I then rechecked it on the turbine housing.



Happy with that, I then welded a V Band to some 3" stainless pipe.



After it had cooled (out in the rain- I'm sooo impatient) I chopped it off at a length determined by whether I'd be able to get the V Band clamp on and off in situ.

I welded the stub onto the original flange et voila, a V Band adapter circa 1990 Ford Motorsport.





Final images of today are of the header and turbo in situ and the oil drain fitted.

I also mocked up the downpipe to get an idea of where it needs to go.







And I'm knackered, cold and in desperate need of a shower.
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:05 PM   #22
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Bertie, two things:

1. I don't get the whole "tapping the drain with the engine in the car" thing. You didn't do this did you? What happened to all of the metal bits?

2. Man, I absolutely do not envy you RHD guys trying to find room for all the turbo bits. I feel ashamed that I labor so much to fit things into a LHD car.
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:32 PM   #23
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Why don't you turn the 945 around and nose it into the garage and pull the door down a foot or so? That way the engine bay should be in the dry.
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:33 PM   #24
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Bertie, two things:

1. I don't get the whole "tapping the drain with the engine in the car" thing. You didn't do this did you? What happened to all of the metal bits?

2. Man, I absolutely do not envy you RHD guys trying to find room for all the turbo bits. I feel ashamed that I labor so much to fit things into a LHD car.
1. Yes, I did. All the metal bits (dust, really) were washed into the sump with liberal amounts of carb cleaner. They'll be removed with an oil change. Any dust missed will be collected by the oil filter. I must point out though, that whilst I would do this on an engine I was keeping, I'll be suprised if this engine does 5000 miles before it's removed to make way for the 16v turbo ( the engine on the stand in mid rebuild).

2. Tell me about it. Getting the 3" downpipe in is not easy with a standard 90+. Getting it to fit with a header and not melt plug leads or boil clutch fluid is going to take a lot of doing.
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:35 PM   #25
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Why don't you turn the 945 around and nose it into the garage and pull the door down a foot or so? That way the engine bay should be in the dry.
Too late for that! The workbench runs the full length of the garage so I can only get two feet of car in, maximum.
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